I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea.
Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all
the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque
and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they
gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor
also?)
I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read
here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing
it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who
knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at.
Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:
Hi Ian,
I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new
board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's
strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could
just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he
actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix
it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway.
The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with
most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only
experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR.
Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin
blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three
for the changeover contact set.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off
the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any
damage to the board or components apart from what looks like
mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked
HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage
convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and
unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what
they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are
they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes
are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board
would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
> Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense
at
half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
something else failed too.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@> wrote:
Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ????1 so if
that is
all that is wrong I shall have saved ????84 !! Thanks for your
interest and support. Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@>
Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with
that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there
is
no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those
little
dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
photocopying
stuff!
Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect
quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as
the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as
low
as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac,
depending
on
your model.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks
<andyf1108@>
wrote:
Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.
Not
sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in
plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance
value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68
ohms
is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical
markings,
and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of
33
ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it
was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ????85 so I am looking to
repair
it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair,
which
is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I
assume it
is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or
can
give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian
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