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Rich,

I like the concept of having it bolted down to a very rigid bench with
bolts of sufficent size using adjuster nuts. The complete process is
described in Sparey's book "The Amateur's Lathe". It will be more
stable in use and when operating the tumbler lever's very stiff
spring. Minor imbalances will have less effect. Chatter frequencies
will change or be of less effect.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

I'm about to mount my lathe more permanently. Is it advisable to

keep the rubberblocks, or lock it down hard?

--
Regards,
Rich

How did this ad get onto this list? Aside from the fact that this
concept, which goes back to an accessory devised back in the 40's, is
basically flawed the Smithy people have devised the best implementation
of it. This ad seems to me to be pure spam from a second string supplier.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Yes, those operations can be real Zoos! If you feel that the savings is
worth the hassle then go early, take a hand truck, and be pushy!

< Cranky Frankie
Still working on the 1896 Star lathe! >

Taking pictures I hope. BTW if anyone has Guy Lataudes index to ME they
might search it for a reference to building a motorcycle type
countershaft clutch for Frank. I recall reading it but it is not in my
meager collection of that magazine. Somewhere in the 70's AIR!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

I'm about to mount my lathe more permanently. Is it advisable to keep the rubberblocks, or lock it down hard?

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

--- wturchyn <wturchyn@...> wrote:

There is a Homier sale this weekend (Friday, Saturday, Aug 15-16) in
Minot, ND, and I'm planning to drive there early to be there when the
doors open Saturday morning. How many Speedway lathes would they
carry to each sale?

Probably around 4, that's all.

Am I likely to arrive and find them sold out if
I wait until Saturday, or should I have no problem?

If they bring them, and you get there when they open, you'll be OK. The
first time I tried to buy one, the place was a literal ZOO, and I couldn't
get a guy to help me lift it, plus the line was a mile long. The second
time I brought a handtruck, but they didn't bring any lathes.

I did e-mail
Homier customer service a few days ago, and they said they are unable
to hold one for me. (It's a 3-4 hour drive to Minot, but I cannot
take the Friday off work.)

Homier CS has nothing to do with the individual tent sales. You get
whatever the guy running the tent sale decides to bring. If he doesn't
bring any, or he runs out before you get there, you're screwed.

If you're going to invest in a 4 hour drive, you might just want to get
one shipped. What's 8 hours of your time and wear and tear on the car
worth?

Cranky Frankie
Still working one the 1896 Star lathe!








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WD40 will help clean the grease off. I used a hand truck to get to
where it ended up and then had a few young friends help get it in place.

Jerry

I decided to try my luck with the 4 jaw chuck i already have
the part fits and with a dial indicator i can more or less center it
mike

I've got one I haven't finished cleaning the red grease from yet.
I had my best luck moving it by straddling it and grasping it with
both hands by the three jaw chuck. I could move it an arm swing, set
it down, shuffle my feet, pick it back up, and repeat. I moved the
carriage to a location that was close to balancing. Be carefull not
to pick it up by something not very substantial, like the gearcover or
backsplash, they'll just bend or break.

We have a new design lathe/mill/drill based in part on the 7X10 mini
lathe-

Hi Mike and Richard,

Thanks for the info. The carriage feed method seems much gentler on
the machine than Martin Cleeve's cross feed method. I also checked
other articles on knurling and, sure enough, found similar info there
(I should have thought of that myself).

Mike, please check out my site:


The carriage lock should look familiar, I copied your design from
pictures you sent to the 7x10 group -- thanks for that too.

Regards, John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

My comments are inserted in the existing text, where appropriate:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "walsh2002bc" <me.walsh@s...>
wrote:

Hi John:

When I'm using my clamp-knurler I don't move the cross-feed at

all.

I only move the cross-feed initially to set the knurling wheels
directly on top and below the workpiece and on the center-line.

I start the lathe with the knurls loose on the right side of the

work

and then slowly clamp down until the knurls begin to cut. Then I

use

the carriage feed only to move the tool slowly towards the
headstock. If at any time I think the cross-slide should be
adjusted, I release the clamp pressure on the tool before making

the

adjustment.

I do similarly, but I make sure that the knurl wheels cover only
1/8" or so on the right end of the work. That makes it easy to

clamp

down far enough to get a good (non-doubled) start, without needing
much pressure on the knurling tool's adjuster.

I move the tool back and forth over the knurling area slowly
tightening the knurl adjustment until the knurling looks
satisfactory, then I move the carriage away from the work to the
right and shut the lathe off. The whole process is very smooth

and

normally requires very little pressure. I find slow spindle

speed

and gentle pressure to work best. Steel workpieces cut smoother
with a little cutting oil.

Make that a _lot_ of oil, and I will agree. Use enough oil, cutting
or lubricating, to wash away the particles that result from the work
operation. And that is true of every metal I've tried to knurl, not
only steel.

Once the knurling has started to form the tool will normally

follow

the previous knurling if you have to repeat the process.

Mike



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently made a clamp style knurler as described by Martin

Cleve:

I had the bump knurler which was part of the Phase II toolpost

so

the

knurls from this were installed in my shiny new knurler and

away I

went. But, now that I've got it, I find I don't really know how

to

use it.

There are other articles in the same group's files, some (all?) of
which have some instructions. Some of those instructions are better
than others -- read them all, then find some books that cover the
subject and read them too. Then practice, practice, practice.

RA

My comments are inserted in the existing text, where appropriate:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "walsh2002bc" <me.walsh@s...>
wrote:

Hi John:

When I'm using my clamp-knurler I don't move the cross-feed at all.

I only move the cross-feed initially to set the knurling wheels
directly on top and below the workpiece and on the center-line.

I start the lathe with the knurls loose on the right side of the

work

and then slowly clamp down until the knurls begin to cut. Then I

use

the carriage feed only to move the tool slowly towards the
headstock. If at any time I think the cross-slide should be
adjusted, I release the clamp pressure on the tool before making the
adjustment.

I do similarly, but I make sure that the knurl wheels cover only
1/8" or so on the right end of the work. That makes it easy to clamp
down far enough to get a good (non-doubled) start, without needing
much pressure on the knurling tool's adjuster.

I move the tool back and forth over the knurling area slowly
tightening the knurl adjustment until the knurling looks
satisfactory, then I move the carriage away from the work to the
right and shut the lathe off. The whole process is very smooth and
normally requires very little pressure. I find slow spindle speed
and gentle pressure to work best. Steel workpieces cut smoother
with a little cutting oil.

Make that a _lot_ of oil, and I will agree. Use enough oil, cutting
or lubricating, to wash away the particles that result from the work
operation. And that is true of every metal I've tried to knurl, not
only steel.

Once the knurling has started to form the tool will normally follow
the previous knurling if you have to repeat the process.

Mike



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently made a clamp style knurler as described by Martin

Cleve:

I had the bump knurler which was part of the Phase II toolpost so

the

knurls from this were installed in my shiny new knurler and away I
went. But, now that I've got it, I find I don't really know how to
use it.

There are other articles in the same group's files, some (all?) of
which have some instructions. Some of those instructions are better
than others -- read them all, then find some books that cover the
subject and read them too. Then practice, practice, practice.

RA

There is a Homier sale this weekend (Friday, Saturday, Aug 15-16) in
Minot, ND, and I'm planning to drive there early to be there when the
doors open Saturday morning. How many Speedway lathes would they
carry to each sale? Am I likely to arrive and find them sold out if
I wait until Saturday, or should I have no problem? I did e-mail
Homier customer service a few days ago, and they said they are unable
to hold one for me. (It's a 3-4 hour drive to Minot, but I cannot
take the Friday off work.)

There is a Homier sale this weekend (Friday, Saturday, Aug 15-16) in
Minot, ND, and I'm planning to drive there early to be there when the
doors open Saturday morning. How many Speedway lathes would they
carry to each sale? Am I likely to arrive and find them sold out if
I wait until Saturday, or should I have no problem? I did e-mail
Homier customer service a few days ago, and they said they are unable
to hold one for me. (It's a 3-4 hour drive to Minot, but I cannot
take the Friday off work.)

Hi John:

When I'm using my clamp-knurler I don't move the cross-feed at all.
I only move the cross-feed initially to set the knurling wheels
directly on top and below the workpiece and on the center-line.

I start the lathe with the knurls loose on the right side of the work
and then slowly clamp down until the knurls begin to cut. Then I use
the carriage feed only to move the tool slowly towards the
headstock. If at any time I think the cross-slide should be
adjusted, I release the clamp pressure on the tool before making the
adjustment.

I move the tool back and forth over the knurling area slowly
tightening the knurl adjustment until the knurling looks
satisfactory, then I move the carriage away from the work to the
right and shut the lathe off. The whole process is very smooth and
normally requires very little pressure. I find slow spindle speed
and gentle pressure to work best. Steel workpieces cut smoother with
a little cutting oil.

Once the knurling has started to form the tool will normally follow
the previous knurling if you have to repeat the process.

Mike



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

I recently made a clamp style knurler as described by Martin Cleve:



I had the bump knurler which was part of the Phase II toolpost so

the

knurls from this were installed in my shiny new knurler and away I
went. But, now that I've got it, I find I don't really know how to
use it.

According to the article, you position the knurls on opposite sides
of the stationary work and close the arms until the knurls just
touch, withdraw the tool somewhat, and close the arms 1/3 turn or

so

of the adjuster. Then the tool is advanced on the spinning work

using

the cross feed plus lots of cutting oil (and elbow grease). When I
do this it produces a nice knurl on 1/2" and 1" steel parts but the
force required via the cross feed seems excessive.

Each time I knurl using this technique the cross feed develops
several mils of backlash and needs readjustment. My suspicion is

that

the excessive force is causing rapid wear to the brass nut on the
cross feed leadscrew.

My original notion was to position the knurls with no pressure
applied and then use the adjuster to close the tool until the

desired

knurl was produced, requiring no force to the cross feed. The

torque

needed on the adjuster to do this is beyond me -- knurling steel
takes a LOT of pressure; perhaps this would work with aluminum but

I

haven't tried that yet.

I thought about trying multiple passes, advancing the adjuster much
less, say 1/16 turn, each pass but don't know how to synchronize to
avoid doubling of the pattern so haven't tried this.

So, is there a better way to use this tool? Do I need to add a

thrust

bearing to the adjuster? Should I ditch the knurled adjuster and

make

a hex nut so I can use a (big) wrench? Would the cross feed

situation

get better if I split the brass nut per the mod suggested in the

7x10

group's files?

John

I recently made a clamp style knurler as described by Martin Cleve:



I had the bump knurler which was part of the Phase II toolpost so the
knurls from this were installed in my shiny new knurler and away I
went. But, now that I've got it, I find I don't really know how to
use it.

According to the article, you position the knurls on opposite sides
of the stationary work and close the arms until the knurls just
touch, withdraw the tool somewhat, and close the arms 1/3 turn or so
of the adjuster. Then the tool is advanced on the spinning work using
the cross feed plus lots of cutting oil (and elbow grease). When I
do this it produces a nice knurl on 1/2" and 1" steel parts but the
force required via the cross feed seems excessive.

Each time I knurl using this technique the cross feed develops
several mils of backlash and needs readjustment. My suspicion is that
the excessive force is causing rapid wear to the brass nut on the
cross feed leadscrew.

My original notion was to position the knurls with no pressure
applied and then use the adjuster to close the tool until the desired
knurl was produced, requiring no force to the cross feed. The torque
needed on the adjuster to do this is beyond me -- knurling steel
takes a LOT of pressure; perhaps this would work with aluminum but I
haven't tried that yet.

I thought about trying multiple passes, advancing the adjuster much
less, say 1/16 turn, each pass but don't know how to synchronize to
avoid doubling of the pattern so haven't tried this.

So, is there a better way to use this tool? Do I need to add a thrust
bearing to the adjuster? Should I ditch the knurled adjuster and make
a hex nut so I can use a (big) wrench? Would the cross feed situation
get better if I split the brass nut per the mod suggested in the 7x10
group's files?

John

There's a 7x24 group for folks that used a 2nd bed for an
extension. If you convert to to 7x14, there's a perfectly good bed
available as an extension.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

I know that the Little Machine Shop has a 14 inch

extension bed,

but mine machine would be more useful with an 18 inch or even a 20

inch

bed. I am looking at buying a Kent, but still need the little lathe

once in

a while, it could be more useful.

Jerry

I know that the Little Machine Shop has a 14 inch extension bed,
but mine machine would be more useful with an 18 inch or even a 20 inch
bed. I am looking at buying a Kent, but still need the little lathe once in
a while, it could be more useful.

Jerry

Chris,
I got my tool post that I ordered from Wholesale Tools. It sure
does look like the Little Machine Shop one. I can spec it for you, but I
think it's the same maker.

Jerry

The picture on the Wholesale Tools Web site is pretty bad, but that looks
like the tool post we sell as PN 1147. We have boring and cutoff tool
holders for this tool post. As we have them made for us, the other guys
probably don't offer them. See our PNs 1648 and 1649.



Regards,
Chris Wood
LittleMachineShop.com <www.littlemachineshop.com>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini mills.
221 E. Walnut St. #110, Pasadena, CA 91101
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)584-5844

Our local club, "Colorado Model Engineering Society", took a tour there
last year. An N/C lath and three N/C mills all set up to crank out stuff.
Rene' Tsai is the owner and a very nice person. Also had some design
software to die for; or at least pay thousands. At least some of the
listmembers made the trip. If we do it again I will post it for those
closeby.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"