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I am planning on buying a Speedway lathe. This will be my first one.
I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers on items that
I will need to purchase with my lathe to start me off?
Thank You
Robert

I have been using a nice green painted Asian CH-250A 1995 model 7x10
minilathe made in Taiwan for 4 years or so. No controller problems at
all so far. The controller uses SCR's (5 of them!) and the low speed
cannot be adjusted with the internal pots to less than 150 RPM and
remain constant under load. I took care of that with a 2.5 times
speed reduction between the motor and the lathe. It makes threading a
bit safer!

Some nice folks recently presented me with a neat blue Homier 7x12
which has a controller with a low speed of 0 RPM. I like that much
better. It uses the famous mosfets (we shall see). There are some
other differences though which are not obvious at first glance:

1. The compound slide (bottom slide)the one which rotates, on my
ch250 is aluminum as is the cross slide ( the part which moves in and
out) on the saddle. The Homier counterparts are both steel.

2.The height from the tool holder mounting surface to the spindle
center on the Homier lathe is 3/32" (as measured using a 6 inch steel
scale) less than the ch250 model. Can't swap tool holders without
readjusting!. The tool holder I use (Carlton) is similar to the Mert
one except for the supporting post and will not fit the Homier at
all. I made a center support to fit and can use the movable tool
holders on both designs now,( still a pia).

None of the above is critical but there may be more! Richard

Hi all, my name is Bill Holland.

I am new to machining, and I bought the 7x14 lathe not too long ago.
I have since been making parts on it, and have started a 1" scale live
steam locomotive on it. I have been making axles out of .5" crs rods.

I keep finding that I need to adjust the gibs quite often, and the
half nut on the cross slide also seams to wear out quickly. I have
found the machine not able to turn to .001 all the time. I can see
physically where the tool just does not cut certain parts of the steel
at the same depth.

I use the 99$ Quick change tool post that little machine shop sells,
and some phase 2 indexable carbide tool holders.

Question, do I need to do anything to those carbide inserts like stone
them before use? I just used them as is.

Should I stone the gibbs? or atleast make some brass gibs instead?
Also, I had to adjust my tailstock to get it more or less on center,
but I dont think I'd trust it for turning between centers. Im willing
to bet the tail stock is off in 3 different axises.
I have been reading other posts, with people saying their machine cuts
better than .001, so I figure my problems lay in my technique or
improper lathe setup.

I have read mini-lathe.com and all of its articles short of their pay
to see ones.

Clay,

Here's a late reply, but may be useful.

See message 10157 in yahoo group "9x20lathe" on a way to make a disk,
fully finished on all sides/edges. If you're not a member, email me
and I can send it.

Craig


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1" <ccarlile1@y...>
wrote:

I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw chuck

so

that it doesn't wobble. If one side is finished, I can use an
indicator but this is very tedious. An even bigger problem occurs
when I want to finish the second side parallel to the first. Can
anyone give a beginner some help or point me in the right direction?

Thanks, Clay

Rich, Frank, Roy, et al;

All points presented are excellent. Another thing I like about
the rigid mounting is improved stability during various operations,
expecially using the tailstock. The little lathe is not completely
stable on its rubber feet and the narrow footprint. Another method of
improving stability is to mount the feet on transverse plates to
reduce rocking. It is of course useable without mods, and comes down
to how much effort one wishes to expend on improvement.

My previous post on this thread mentioned Sparey's book and the
front/rear - left/right ordering briefly.

Keeping up with posts in the various groups is indeed difficult.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

Thanks for the pointer, I'll go search over there (or just take your

word for the consensus :-). I have stopped email from that group, I
just could not keep up, unfortunately I'm also losing the good info
that's woven in all the chatter.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/20/2003 at 5:04 AM roylowenthal wrote:

It takes a machinist's precision level, good for showing less than
0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive. On the 7x10
group, there was a lengthy thread about leveling/rigid mounting
within the last couple/3 months. The consensus was that rigid
mounting is not a good idea and everybody was tired of talking

about

it :-)

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================

Thanks to all for the many suggestions.
Clay

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1" <ccarlile1@y...>
wrote:

I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw

chuck

If the disk has any holes in it, you can use them to mount it to a
faceplate. If there is one central hole (like a washer), you can

use

a drawbar (long bolt) to hold it to the spindle nose - use some

paper

(typing or similar) to increase friction between the work and the
spindle nose.

If you must use the 3-jaw, use parallels between the workpiece and
the front of the chuck. You may need to add shims if the front of
the chuck is not true. Be certain to remove the parallels before

you

apply power to the lathe - they WILL come flying out if they

possibly

can.

If the answers you have so far don't seem to solve to problem, ask
again with a little more detail about the workpiece.

RA

Thanks for the pointer, I'll go search over there (or just take your word for the consensus :-). I have stopped email from that group, I just could not keep up, unfortunately I'm also losing the good info that's woven in all the chatter.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/20/2003 at 5:04 AM roylowenthal wrote:

It takes a machinist's precision level, good for showing less than
0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive. On the 7x10
group, there was a lengthy thread about leveling/rigid mounting
within the last couple/3 months. The consensus was that rigid
mounting is not a good idea and everybody was tired of talking about
it :-)

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

Leveling is an important factor for large industrial
lathes, but I don't think it is at all critical for
very small lathes. I have never made any attempt to
level mine and it works just fine.

What is more important, in my view, is not to impart
uneven stress to the bed when bolting the lathe to the
bench. One way to minimize this is to keep the rubber
feet in place and let them absorb the stress, rather
than the bed.

Frank Hoose


--- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

It takes a machinist's precision level, good for
showing less than
0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive.
On the 7x10
group, there was a lengthy thread about
leveling/rigid mounting
within the last couple/3 months. The consensus was
that rigid
mounting is not a good idea and everybody was tired
of talking about
it :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard
Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

How would you level the bed? Winding sticks is

something used in
the woodworking world.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/19/2003 at 1:37 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

Bottom line, I would leave it on the rubber feet

unless prepared
to go

through all the troubles of truly leveling the

bed.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...

========================================

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It takes a machinist's precision level, good for showing less than
0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive. On the 7x10
group, there was a lengthy thread about leveling/rigid mounting
within the last couple/3 months. The consensus was that rigid
mounting is not a good idea and everybody was tired of talking about
it :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

How would you level the bed? Winding sticks is something used in

the woodworking world.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/19/2003 at 1:37 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

Bottom line, I would leave it on the rubber feet unless prepared

to go

through all the troubles of truly leveling the bed.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================

How would you level the bed? Winding sticks is something used in the woodworking world.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/19/2003 at 1:37 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

Bottom line, I would leave it on the rubber feet unless prepared to go
through all the troubles of truly leveling the bed.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

Rich,

Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been online in a few days.

It depends on the absolute flatness of the bench and the original
quality of the lathe feet. The rubber feet are more resilent than the
lathe bed so they take up small amounts of inacurracies. If the lathe
is bolted down without consideration of the posibilities, the bed may
be twisted a slight amount.

This twist can be observed in tailstock misaligned (if the tailstock
is well made, mine wasn't).

Bottom line, I would leave it on the rubber feet unless prepared to go
through all the troubles of truly leveling the bed.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

Oh, so as long as this is going onto a flat bench where the lathe

does not rock on the 4 metal feet, just bolting it down in the 4
corners should be fine

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================

You can simply retap the holes in the mounting feet of
the lathe to 1/4-20. Here are some tips:



Frank Hoose


--- Richard Kleinhenz <woodnpen@...> wrote:

OK, thanks, although I don't know what adjuster nuts
are. I am bolting it to a 1.5" MDF bench top, and
have a 3" riser platform. I thought I'd bolt
through the whole stack. Thread appears to be
M6x1.0, I don't think I can find bolts, I was going
to thread some 1/4" drillrod 1/4-20 under the bench
and M6x1.0 into the lathe. I think I'd better use
5/16 so I have a shoulder at the lathe side.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/15/2003 at 5:40 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

I like the concept of having it bolted down to a

very rigid bench with

bolts of sufficent size using adjuster nuts. The

complete process is

described in Sparey's book "The Amateur's Lathe".

It will be more

stable in use and when operating the tumbler

lever's very stiff

spring. Minor imbalances will have less effect.

Chatter frequencies

will change or be of less effect.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...

========================================


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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1" <ccarlile1@y...>
wrote:

I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw chuck

If the disk has any holes in it, you can use them to mount it to a
faceplate. If there is one central hole (like a washer), you can use
a drawbar (long bolt) to hold it to the spindle nose - use some paper
(typing or similar) to increase friction between the work and the
spindle nose.

If you must use the 3-jaw, use parallels between the workpiece and
the front of the chuck. You may need to add shims if the front of
the chuck is not true. Be certain to remove the parallels before you
apply power to the lathe - they WILL come flying out if they possibly
can.

If the answers you have so far don't seem to solve to problem, ask
again with a little more detail about the workpiece.

RA

A piece of packing long enough to let the work protrude from the
jaws, bearing against the chuck face. Things like faced off tubing
scraps or hardwood work for lengthwise alignment, depending on
diameter. A set of adjustable parallels is quick for set-up, but not
as solid a grip as a hardwood spacer (the parallel is removed before
turning; the wood stays in place.)

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1" <ccarlile1@y...>
wrote:

I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw chuck

so

that it doesn't wobble. If one side is finished, I can use an
indicator but this is very tedious. An even bigger problem occurs
when I want to finish the second side parallel to the first. Can
anyone give a beginner some help or point me in the right direction?

Thanks, Clay

Clay, I have used matched tool bits as shims under the jaws as shims to
space the workpiece up parallel to the back side to make a cut. After
clamping the disc firmly just slip the spacers out and take light cuts!

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

ccarlile1 <ccarlile1@...> wrote:
I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw chuck so
that it doesn't wobble. If one side is finished, I can use an
indicator but this is very tedious. An even bigger problem occurs
when I want to finish the second side parallel to the first. Can
anyone give a beginner some help or point me in the right direction?

Thanks, Clay

Make a spider of the right thickness and use it as a backplate. Or make some soft jaws and use bored to the correct step for your part. Good luck





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Charlie
cwalklin1@...

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I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw chuck so
that it doesn't wobble. If one side is finished, I can use an
indicator but this is very tedious. An even bigger problem occurs
when I want to finish the second side parallel to the first. Can
anyone give a beginner some help or point me in the right direction?

Thanks, Clay

The problem is that I live across the border in Canada, so shipping
an item like this involves additional costs and headaches. Having to
return a damaged or defective unit would be a nightmare, and I've
read that UPS shipping damage is more the rule than the exception.
Overall, I'd feel better if I could drive there, see that the lathe
box was not crushed or smashed, and take it home. My fuel costs for
my VW Golf will be less than the shipping costs, and I can use the
savings to buy some tools.

It's frustrating to read how common it is for lathe buyers to show up
at a sale and go home empty-handed. I'm not in marketing, but it
would seem to me that the people running the shows would make sure
they brought enough stock so that everyone who came seeking a
particular advertised item would be certain to take one home. They're
just turning away sales (and profits)!

Oh, so as long as this is going onto a flat bench where the lathe does not rock on the 4 metal feet, just bolting it down in the 4 corners should be fine

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

Rich,

The adjusting nuts are just nuts (and perhaps washers) top and bottom
of each lathe foot allowing the corners of the lathe to be leveled on
the bolts. The bolts are attached to the worktop with nuts and
washers in the appropriate locations with the threaded portion
pointing up and then the first layer of nuts and washers are threaded
on the bolts, then the lathe itself, and then the top nuts. The lathe
is leveled by tweaking the nuts. I think the proper order is, level
front to back on the left, level left to right on the front, and level
front to back on the right, and recheck.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

OK, thanks, although I don't know what adjuster nuts are. I am

bolting it to a 1.5" MDF bench top, and have a 3" riser platform. I
thought I'd bolt through the whole stack. Thread appears to be
M6x1.0, I don't think I can find bolts, I was going to thread some
1/4" drillrod 1/4-20 under the bench and M6x1.0 into the lathe. I
think I'd better use 5/16 so I have a shoulder at the lathe side.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/15/2003 at 5:40 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

I like the concept of having it bolted down to a very rigid bench

with

bolts of sufficent size using adjuster nuts. The complete process

is

described in Sparey's book "The Amateur's Lathe". It will be more
stable in use and when operating the tumbler lever's very stiff
spring. Minor imbalances will have less effect. Chatter

frequencies

will change or be of less effect.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================