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Hi Ian, Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense

You have either misconnected something on the board, or cause a short. the most common cause of blowing fuses is either the bridge rectifier or the pot shorting out on the fuse-holder. Check the

Hi, I just picked up a Cummins mini lathe and was wondering if there is any resource out there that can tell me what speeds to run for diff materials....I mostly play with Stainless Steel and not sure

I'm not 100% sure that post fits the 7x stuff, but it seems a safe assumption, I think :-). Does not sound good to me, I'd avoid anything like that unless I was just doing balsa :). I think that would

Thanks Vikki. Good sleuthing. In that it fits the 7x14 it should fit the 7x12. That tool post is really good because the bottom of the tool slot is cupped to match the curved packer, the tool and

The one I was considering (still am :) is this one: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82689 Seems like it should be solid enough. I like my

G'day all. Not wanting to rain on Rance's parade I have started a new topic. Has anybody made, bought or used a rocking shim in the tool post? The idea is that the bottom of the shim has a slight

The other day I put a dial indicator in a spare toolholder for my QCTP, set it on centreline of my lathe, and left it on the shelf. Tonight I had to do some stuff using the 4 jaw chuck, the job was

A common method of making strong threaded holes in aluminum is with Helicoils. If you're not familiar with them, they're spring looking objects, wound from trapezoidal wire, usually stainless steel.

Rance, as a machinist, even a hobby machinist, you do start to look at things differently. It sometimes is a curse. When my eyesight was better, I saw every crooked picture on a wall, and noticed

Well dooooooooh! 8) I have a lathe now. What was I thinking. I'm gonna have to change my mindset. I could easily make my own steel inserts now, right? :D That's one of the reasons I got this thing, so

<miket--nyc@...> wrote:

Thanks Ron. So how about using threaded inserts in an aluminum block? First downside I see with an insert it creates an additional place for possible lost rigidity. I've seen Pem Nuts for 6-32 screws

Hi, Rance. Aluminum (aluminium) is strong, but it has been my experience that threaded holes are easily stripped or deformed with twisting motions. Steel would probably be best. As for the stability,

If you are more interested in having the parts you describe instead of learning and playing with a lathe, you might do well to consider www.emachineshop.com. They have a small software program to

Thanks Ron, and to Clint for posting the pics. I went to the local scrap yard (for the 1st time) and found a plethora of alum. scraps. I got 2' of 1.5" bar stock and a 6"x1" square plate for starters.

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?1 so if that is all that is wrong I shall have saved ?84 !! Thanks for your interest and support. Ian

Comparatively I was lucky, all I had was a goopy pile in the tailstock and some spatter on the drill press table! Next time I will remember that. One has to be so careful about using fluids around

Duhhh, I clean up the lathe when I do magnetic stuff with a magnet in a sandwich baggie turned inside out, just turn it rightside out, seal and toss. Why didn't I think of that here? Sometimes we're

Hi Ian, You referenced the 2 locknuts on the compound feed when you were talking about the locking grub screw in the end of your leed screw last week. I was mystified but figured I understood the