--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri
<miket--nyc@...> wrote:
Another way I got the same result was to replace the clamping screw
that's there with a slightly longer one and modify the screw so I could
turn it from the threaded end to lock and unlock the tailstock. I filed
the end of the screw to a square and made a little wrench with a square
hole that I use to tighten and loosen the screw. Initially I was
wondering if that little square nubbin on the end would be strong enough
to torque the clamping screw down with, but I case-hardened it and it's
held up fine.
Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
On Wed, 28 Feb 2007 01:48:21 -0800 (PST) Malcolm Parker-Lisberg
<mparkerlisberg@...> writes:
To save all the trouble of all that machining, remove
the 5mm cap head screw that holds the tailstock bottom
plate to the top half that is used when adjusting the
offset. Drill 5mm through the top half, removing the
thread for the screw and make a sliding captive 5mm
threaded plate to take a 30 mm m5 cap head screw from
the inside of the top of the tailstock. Raise the
clamping nut with two 10mm washers so your tailstock
clamping spanner clears the new 5mm caphead offset
clamping screw. You can now adjust the position of the
tailstock without having to turn it over to adjust the
offset clamping screw.
Exactly what I've done ,the nut was made by milling two flats on steel
round bar drilling and threading and then slicing, the nut fits nicely
in the slot ,however as I have made a cam lock to the little machine
shop design ,the cap head does not interfere with any thing.
Geoff UK
