¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Bill,

No Problem.

By the way - the free shipping is great especially when ordering heavy things....

Take care,
DBN

Bill Kenny <billcnc@...> wrote:
Hmm, never mind, I just re-read the above post!

Bill

On 4/1/07, Bill Kenny <billcnc@...> wrote:

Oh - Man, I just missed this one, are there any others?

Thanks
Bill

On 3/30/07, Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@... > wrote:

Hi,

This should do it. Hi Metalworking Professional,

In April get Free UPS Shipping* on your Enco order of $50 or more! Just
mention promo code WBARN7 when you order by phone at 800-USE-ENCO, or enter
it in the promo code box on the shopping cart page when you shop online at
use-enco.com.

AND, if you need to order now...

Plus, we're offering Free UPS Shipping* on your Enco order of $50 or
more! Just mention promo code WBNRM7 when you order by phone at
800-USE-ENCO, or enter it in the promo code box on the shopping cart page
when you shop online at use-enco.com. Hurry, this offer expires,
Saturday, March 31, 2007.


Take care,
DBN


oneacmename <daniel@... <daniel%40gecko-grotto.com>> wrote:
I just missed the last free shipping promo code by 2 hours :(
Anyone have one that is valid?

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Hi Vikki,

Ah, the dreaded broken tap. Every break is different and you do what
you need to do in your situation. It's always a good brain teaser.
In aluminium and brass I'm told alum is magical.

I recently broke a 4mm tap in a 1/2" deep hole in steel. Chemical
techniques weren't going to help steel in steel. Attempts to grab
the little protruding portion just made it crumble. It was a good
hard tap. Like yours, it was my ninth hole in a row and I thought I
had the knack. They were going smoothly. Maybe the tap fatiqued as I
was not using much force.

A while back I was asking (mainly out of academic interest) about
cutting O-ring grooves. Well, I've now cut my first O-ring groove
and a very tight face-seal type groove at that. I chucked the job in
the 4-jaw and got the broken tap on centre, confirming by peeping
through the spindle with a torch to see the reverse side. I then
ground a 1/8" HSS blank to a narrow grooving tool with heaps of
relief angle on one side to allow a really tight o-ring groove
around the broken tap. I cut a groove about 3mm deep about 1mm clear
of the tap. I then took skimming cuts at that 1mm thick island
around the tap. About one thou at a time until I was perilously
close to hitting the tap. A scriber was then poked down the tap
flutes to pry the thin remaining steel back. Instead of gripping the
tap with vice grips and having it crumble further I was able to
squash the end of some 1/4" stainless tubing to make the triangular
equivalent of a socker wrench. That distributed the load across all
three flutes and with a gentle back and forth motion I soon had
movement which gradually increased until I had it turning.

I did have some extra features on my finished product but it was
only a tool jig and I can live with that. It had toooo much work
invested to discard.

Not sure if that helps your situation. But you can never have too
many solutions in the back of your mind!

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

Just to share the fun.

Got my laser edge / center finder holder all turned and bored out

and

started drilling and tapping (4-40) for the set screw / power

switch

holes. Went along nicely up until the final one (9th) where the

tap

broke.

Nothing gets it out :-(. And of course it is one of the lower
(critical) ones :-).

I tried the 4-40 tap out of my little kit from the auto parts

place and

it promply turned itself into a corkscrew :-). Broke too, but it

was

soft enough not to shatter and I was able to get it out with vice
grips.

Sigh. I suppose that this isn't a real big deal since this is

a "proof

of concept" thing and I can rotate the holder 45 degrees and put

in a

new set.

Lessons learned: When wrists get tired from doing the tapping -

take a

break rather than switch hands and cheap taps are a total waste of

time

and money (now I know what a cheap tap is :-).

Only a minor setback as I now have the holder itself worked out

and can

easily enough duplicate it.

Not a bad day!

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Windows, another fine product from the folks who brought you

edlin." --

Unknown

Just to share the fun.

Got my laser edge / center finder holder all turned and bored out and
started drilling and tapping (4-40) for the set screw / power switch
holes. Went along nicely up until the final one (9th) where the tap
broke.

Nothing gets it out :-(. And of course it is one of the lower
(critical) ones :-).

I tried the 4-40 tap out of my little kit from the auto parts place and
it promply turned itself into a corkscrew :-). Broke too, but it was
soft enough not to shatter and I was able to get it out with vice
grips.

Sigh. I suppose that this isn't a real big deal since this is a "proof
of concept" thing and I can rotate the holder 45 degrees and put in a
new set.

Lessons learned: When wrists get tired from doing the tapping - take a
break rather than switch hands and cheap taps are a total waste of time
and money (now I know what a cheap tap is :-).

Only a minor setback as I now have the holder itself worked out and can
easily enough duplicate it.

Not a bad day!

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Windows, another fine product from the folks who brought you edlin." --
Unknown

Personal feeling is that they're nifty enough to be worth the price:-
) Locally, most auto parts stores have single size Helicoil kits in
the 1/4" to 1/2" range (& corresponding metric sizes) for a fairly
reasonable price. For the smaller sizes, you still have to go to an
industrial distributor. FWIW, the aviation industry routinely uses
fine threads for everything to maximize fastener strength (greater
root diameter.)

A few years ago, Sears tried some dedicated hardware stores - nifty
places, apparently didn't sell enough to stay open. Locally, the
only reliable retail source of NF stuff is the "Do It Best" hardware
store with the aisle filled with drawers of hardware assortments.
Mercifully, the industrial hardware place actively encourages retail
sales; unfortunately they're halfway across the next town over.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <trainguy_347@...> wrote:

Hi, Roy. That is a good point. I had thought of recommending

Helicoils, but the expense of the special taps and insertion tools
seemed somewhat prohibitive at our level. Used many a Helicoil myself
to get a million dollar light bulb-making machine going again. Not as
impressive as saving a 10 million dollar jet fighter, but they do
work great, if you have enough depth to use them. I have cut them off
to use in shallower holes, but I was getting paid to do that, not
playing on my own time. They are a wonderful tool to have in reserve
when just nothing else will work.

Rance, don't be afraid of using steel for making things; it

machines nicely, and is pretty darn common in junk and salvage yards.
Don't be seduced by stainless steel for making parts, unless really
needed. It sounds superior, but for a novice it can be a nightmare,
mainly because of it's "stringy" toughness when machining. Wait a bit
until you see how other materials cut, then practice on some
stainless to see the difference. All part of the learning curve,
Babe!

BTW, remember to use coarser threads in soft materials, and finer

threads for harder ones. For example, 1/4-20 for aluminum, 1/4-28 for
mild steel. That's why the different thread sizes are there, not just
for marketing purposes, as it sometimes seems.

Which brings up another point: when did hardware store like Sears

stop selling fine thread fasteners? It seems like everything is now
the coarse thread (NC as opposed to NF). At least thats the way it is
at my local Sears.

Ron.
---- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

A common method of making strong threaded holes in aluminum is

with

Helicoils. If you're not familiar with them, they're spring

looking

objects, wound from trapezoidal wire, usually stainless steel.

In

practice, the hole is tapped oversize with a special "STI" (Screw
Thread Insert) tap, the insert is screwed in, its driving tang is
broken off & the job is done. In addition to being common in the
aviation industry they're also widely used to repair damaged

threaded

holes.



Roy

G'day Kevin.
The great feature of the minilathe is the variable speed knob. For
lathes with stepped pulleys or gears setting the speed before you start
iss important. For us we can just wind the knob up until we feel
comfortable. Just making the cutting oil smoke is quite fast enough,
blue chips means you shouldn't go any faster.

Paul has posted a great chart and spreadsheet but don't get too hung up
about it.
I will put Paul's chart beside my drill press which does have stepped
speed. Twist drills are harder to sharpen than lathe tools.

Welcome to machining.
One good turn deserves another.
regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John doe" <mrbigcox2000@...>
wrote:

Hi,
I just picked up a Cummins mini lathe and was wondering if there is
any resource out there that can tell me what speeds to run for diff
materials....I mostly play with Stainless Steel and not sure what

speed

I should run my lathe at....Can anyone help??....Thanks, Kevin

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

Both imported and locally manufactured vehicles now use metric
fasteners, whilst our earlier locally produced cars used UNF & UNC.

Hi Ian,

I think you nailed it there. Commercial market forces. There's still
lots of call in Oz for UNF and UNC so they are stocked. But I don't
use them in new designs. I figure the older cars, etc. requiring
them will pass and UNx will eventually not be readily available. To
ensure easy future maintenance of my products I use only metric
other than interfacing to specific imperial components.

I assume there are some similar market forces operating in the US
although it's hard to fathom why UNF would be hard to source in an
imperial country.

Re legalities, I don't actually recall imperial tapes being outlawed
so much as the use of imperial units for marketing products. Like a
half pound of butter had to be advertised in its gram equivalent.
This led to the ridiculous situation where I go to the store to buy
a sheet of ply and I'm offered 900x1800 or 1200x2400mm sheets.
Everyone knew they were 3x6 or 4x8 foot sheets. It's only in very
recent years that the true metric sizes have been delivered. The
next problem is when the kids put the cricket ball through a 4x8
sheet of fibro and the only available sheets just won't quite span...

John

Ian, I guess I'm just mad at Sears! I went there today, and was frustrated trying to find UNF threaded fasteners in what has now become an appliance store. They used to have 4 aisles of fasteners; now just one, shared with hinges and screendoor parts. There, indeed, are dozens of other hardware stores in the St. Louis area that still carry UNF, but I don't like to drive 15 miles to shop there! Guess I had better count my blessings that I did not have to deal with Whitworth, Acme, metric etc. on a day-to-day basis as some do. Thanks for putting things in perspective (as you always do!).
Ron. Keep makin' chips!

Congrats on the new machine. Paul posted a cheat sheet that's very
useful. Here's a link to his post that links to the file. I had
trouble accessing it using Firefox, but IE works.

G'day Ron
You said: "Which brings up another point: when did hardware store
like Sears stop selling fine thread fasteners? It seems like
everything is now the coarse thread (NC as opposed to NF). At least
thats the way it is at my local Sears."

In Oz we able to get UNC, UNF and Metric fasteners in blister packs
from rotating display stands in the Auto Parts chain stores. I can't
imagine you can't do the same in the US.

Both imported and locally manufactured vehicles now use metric
fasteners, whilst our earlier locally produced cars used UNF & UNC.

After Australia officially being "metric" for over 30 years our
hardware chains are just starting to sell metric hardware, up until
now most of the building bolts, nuts etc have used Whitworth threads.
Plumbing still uses imperial dimensions. Thankfully electrical went
metric right at the beginning which is why I work comfortably in
metric.
When we converted to metric it became illegal to sell tapes, rules
etc calibrated in imperial units; so much for beaurocracy! That rule
has now expired so we have tapes with metric on on side of the face
and imperial on the other. That is a total pain because when
measuring out the wrong dimensions are always at the side you need to
mark; again I have switched to metric so I avoid getting tapes and
rules with imperial dimensions.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:

Check out the Cutting Speeds link at
<>.

Mike

On 3/31/07, John doe <mrbigcox2000@...> wrote:

Hi,
I just picked up a Cummins mini lathe and was wondering if

there is

any resource out there that can tell me what speeds to run for

diff

materials....I mostly play with Stainless Steel and not sure what

speed

I should run my lathe at....Can anyone help??....Thanks, Kevin



Be sure to check out for small

mills and lathes.

Yahoo! Groups Links


Hi this is Gordy, Check out the Machinery Handbook. Any volume

will do. Also, just put your piece you're machining in and just
start cutting, wherever you're at when it starts doing a good job,
there you go...

Check out the Cutting Speeds link at
<>.

Mike

Ian, that rocker sectiopn looks suspiciously like a Woodruff Key, used for placing in shafts and driving gears, coms and sheaves. Most hardware stores should carry them. Just a thought. Ron.
Keep makin' chips!


---- steam4ian <fosterscons@...> wrote:

Hi, Roy. That is a good point. I had thought of recommending Helicoils, but the expense of the special taps and insertion tools seemed somewhat prohibitive at our level. Used many a Helicoil myself to get a million dollar light bulb-making machine going again. Not as impressive as saving a 10 million dollar jet fighter, but they do work great, if you have enough depth to use them. I have cut them off to use in shallower holes, but I was getting paid to do that, not playing on my own time. They are a wonderful tool to have in reserve when just nothing else will work.
Rance, don't be afraid of using steel for making things; it machines nicely, and is pretty darn common in junk and salvage yards. Don't be seduced by stainless steel for making parts, unless really needed. It sounds superior, but for a novice it can be a nightmare, mainly because of it's "stringy" toughness when machining. Wait a bit until you see how other materials cut, then practice on some stainless to see the difference. All part of the learning curve, Babe!
BTW, remember to use coarser threads in soft materials, and finer threads for harder ones. For example, 1/4-20 for aluminum, 1/4-28 for mild steel. That's why the different thread sizes are there, not just for marketing purposes, as it sometimes seems.
Which brings up another point: when did hardware store like Sears stop selling fine thread fasteners? It seems like everything is now the coarse thread (NC as opposed to NF). At least thats the way it is at my local Sears.
Ron.
---- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

G'day Jim.

Have you found that the fuse protects the FETs or SCRs if there is a
short circuit on the motor side?

In my experince on large drives I found that the energy let through
of a standard fuse is higher then the fusing energy of the silicon
junction. By the time the fuse blows the SRC etc has already had it.
Special fuses for protecting SCRs etc can be obtained but they become
a very weak link in the chain, they have to melt (fuse) at about 1/6
of the energy of the junction to be able to clear before the junction
is over stressed.
External factors like circuit inductance can help the fuse protect
the SCRs etc but it has to be designed in, in fact when it is, the
fuses are often eliminated altogether.

A number of people report blowing a fuse when they stall the lathe,
doesn't the current feedback loop prevent this? I have stalled my
lathe many times and haven't taken out a fuse yet, I wouldn't expect
to. I would value your comments.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards
Ian

G'day John.
You've given me an idea how to machine the tool holder and the packer.
I need to think about what radius is required and whether the lathe
could cut it. If the concavity in the tool holder can be cut by
mounting it on the face plate and so can the convex surface on the
packer/s. The standard tool holder with the tol mounted on the
outside could cut the radius.

I will explore the idea of using a commercial rounded section, I am
sure I have seen something like it in brass; used for trimming
comings on boats and for carpet edging.

In that the Micro Mark rocking tool holder costs USD26.20 and a
standard tool holder costs USD10.95 it may not be worth the time and
effort to just to save USD15.25.
It must be remembered that the rocking holder does not totally
obviate the need for shimming but it makes it much less critical.
Ellis's comments about increasing the clearance should be noted.

I am sure I have seen a tool post with the rocking packer straight on
the flat floor of the tool holder slot.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

Garry, check that you didn't trap a wire somewhere when you screwed the casings etc back together, cutting through its insulation and creating a short circuit. I speak from personal experience!
Andy

graysubs56 <graysubs@...> wrote:
Hi all,
I have the 7x14 Mini Lathe with the digital readout. I had cause to
change over to the metal gears and put new bearings in as well. My big
question is now that I have it all back together the machine keeps
blowing the fuse when I turn on the power. The gear box is not stiff,
the motor and box turn over by hand and I color coded all the wires
before I pulled them out so I could make sure they went back in the
right place. The yellow light still comes on, even when the fuse is
blown. Have I inadvertedly blown some of the electronics in the board?
Regards,
Garry






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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...> wrote:

On Saturday 31 March 2007, steam4ian wrote:

Thanks Vikki.
Good sleuthing. In that it fits the 7x14 it should fit the 7x12.

I'm not 100% sure that post fits the 7x stuff, but it seems a safe
assumption, I think :-).

That
tool post is really good because the bottom of the tool slot is
cupped to match the curved packer, the tool and packer is supported
over the full length of the packer. Somewhere I have seen a standard
tool post used with just the packer curved, the problem is that there
is only a thin line of contact with the bottom of the slot, not much
friction.

Does not sound good to me, I'd avoid anything like that unless I was
just doing balsa :).

At the price the Micro mark tool post could be hard to justify
against getting a QCTP, but it is worth thinking about.

I think that would be more rigid than the QCTP and if it were somewhat
less expensive having a few of them around might be worth it.

Take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
?€?Anyone who describes Islam as a religion as intolerant encourages
violence,?€? --Turkish Foreign Ministry spokeswoman Tasnim Aslam

I use one of these, every day. Works great! It's cheap, effective and
only sometimes requires re-grinding relief. It is much stiffer than
the "cheap" QCTP's .There's no problem with the tool shifting, after
you learn to tighten the set screws really snug.

Bob

Ian wrote.......Has anybody made, bought or used a rocking shim in the tool post?.......

I have used them in the past. The main problem is you need to allow for the 'rock' when grinding the tool angles. Especially clearance. A tool will cut without rake, but not without clearance.
HTH
Ellis

Hi Vikki,

That rocker post you linked looks like something you could make out
of your old stock toolpost. Just whack it on the faceplate and cut
those rocker depressions in the lower tool ledge using your QCTP.
Make the radius match some off-the-shelf bar and you will have
minimal machining to make the rockers.

Sound feasible?

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

On Saturday 31 March 2007, steam4ian wrote:

G'day all.
Not wanting to rain on Rance's parade I have started a new topic.
Has anybody made, bought or used a rocking shim in the tool post?
The idea is that the bottom of the shim has a slight convexity

and

the tool tip height can be finely adjusted by differential

tightening

of the front and back screws. This replicates the adjustment

provided

by the cup washer and half moon shim in the old lantern style

tool

posts. Tip height adjustment does alter the tool rake but not

enough

to be a problem

The one I was considering (still am :) is this one:

MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82689

Seems like it should be solid enough. I like my QCTP, but it does

flex

sometimes.

My experience was with the a single rocker post that held one bit

on a

bigger machine, I liked it and it was easy to adjust.

I am concerned about the lateral tool rigidity, that is, the
likelyhood of the tool swinging back under load. Any comments.

Before I pick up some 50mm x 3mm flat and attack it with a file

it

would be good to hear from others.

Can't speak from experience on that one I linked to, but it

*looks*

good :). I need to ask them if that is for the 7x variety, at 5/8

max

for a bit, I am not sure.

Hope this helps!

Take care, Vikki (no connection to Micro-Mark).
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"I'm anti-war! Trouble is, the enemy isn't." -- Unknown

Hi Ian,

Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense at
half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
something else failed too.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@...> wrote:

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ??1 so if that is

all that is wrong I shall have saved ??84 !! Thanks for your
interest and support. Ian

-----Original Message-----

From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram

Hi Ian,
66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the

prefix

as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there is

no

prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely

0.66

ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those little

dots

that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when

photocopying

stuff!
Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as low

as

that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, depending

on

your model.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm. Not

sure

about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms

is,

though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings,

and

check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33

ohm

ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,

it's

probably close enough).

As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or

somewhere, get the next size up.

I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it was

something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.

Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m

with a

dead circuit

board. A new board will cost ??85 so I am looking to repair

it. The

only

fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which

is

marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I assume it

is

a

creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can

give

me the

specification of the part. Thanks Ian






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