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The nut's vertical position can be adjusted to match the CS leadscrew using the procedure given on page 13 of this LMS manual: < http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf > This

Roy, that's why the modification to the brass nut is necessary. Its easy, just follow the article and it helps the adjustment stay. John

It's already got adjusting screws! http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Tuning/tuning.htm#xbacklash They do tend to unadjust themselves, mostly from the screws vibrating loose. Some folks have shimmed

There is a pdf file with photos on the group web site of how to modify the cross slide nut and make it easier to adjust. I did the modification years ago and it makes adjusting easy. I also lapped the

Before getting involved with shims, first loosen off the rear gib adjusting screw and see if that makes any difference. If not, try loosening the two bolts which secure the bracket that carries the

I am willing to do ceramic coating of parts, or pretty much anything mailable, for some well done bearing upgrades in the cross slides of my mini lathe. I do ceramic coating as a part of my

Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the

Robert; I noticed on your link,you mentioned that you wanted to fill the apron gearbox with oil. Did you ever do this? You would not have to fill the box,only put some in the bottom,which woud travel

John Thank you very much! I will look this over when I get a chance. Dick

I installed a pair of 8mm x 22mm bearings on my handwheel shaft. Unlike most others, I put both bearings in front, with nothing in the rear. This has worked very well for me. See my post at:

Hello Dick see my link of photos. https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5760796018680783985 This modification project maybe more than you want ?to do. As I extended the cross

When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes? I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile

I am interesed in seeing your idea as I will at some point make a modification to mine. Could you contact me off the group? Thank you Dick

Hi and thanks good idea , yes its removed Don From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of anthrhodes@... Sent: Saturday, 9 February 2013 5:27 p.m. To:

Don, I suppose you've probably solved this by now, but if not --- Hold a steel piece hard against the aluminum piece, no clearance, then strike the block with a common hammer, not soft or dead blow.

I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will still be interested. Many years ago on the

That's a great idea... Mark Schwiebert wrote:

I drilled the draw bolt for my collet chuck, so I could run a stop through it. I just used 1/4 in, redi-bolt, for the stop,so I could adjust it all thr way from the collet, to the nut on the end of

you know your machine so you're OK if you work with more than one brand or type of machine the axis designations break down fairly quickly ,they usually try to stay close to 'the book' for them but

Thanks!!... Been wanting to do that for a while. I made some ends that allow me to get past the chuck jaws and do down to 1/8" diameters. I made the body of it .63" to fit the 3" chuck bore to center