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Re: Screwless vise


John Lindo
 

Hello Dick
see my link of photos.
https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5760796018680783985

This modification project maybe more than you want ?to do.
As I extended the cross slide,also made the mods to rotate the compound slide without
having to wind the screw in/out.Sometimes upsetting the gib settings.
You just have to?align?the front of the compound slide to the face of the ?X slide,and use a allen T handle to?
slacken,or tighten 4 screws.Now really secure.I drilled ?holes through the compound slide to pick up
the heads of the original screws added and 2 new at 90 degrees through holes in the compound and tapped new holes in the X slide.
the added holes as extra?rigidity only.
I made a new?larger?diameter spinning /locking disc,I thought the original a bit thin and threads were a loose fit,
bored out the compound bores accordingly.
Also drilled/reamed holes for a locator pin?and now I can rotate the compound every 15 degrees with a positive pin stop.
The 30 degree location hole is actually 29.5 degree,for screw cutting angles.
then finished off the project with machined oil grooves and oil wells,and scraped the slide faces.
These mods I did some 2 years ago,never had any problems.
Hope this all helps.
John L
Spain



From: Dick
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, February 9, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Screwless vise

?

I am interesed in seeing your idea as I will at some point make a modification to mine.
Could you contact me off the group?
Thank you
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Taglieri" wrote:
>
> I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
> tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
> still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
> easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
> that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
> then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
> slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
> problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
> capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
> while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
> JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
> precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
> spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
> tighten the screws down fully.
>
> Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
> from the usual sources
> (). But I didn't want
> to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
> that I had already()
> and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
> compound.
>
> I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
> still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
> compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
> better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
> motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
>
> Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...
>
> Everyone has his reasons.
> - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
>
> > P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
> > instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
> > I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
> > machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
> > over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
> > some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
> > locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
> > cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
> > locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
> > tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
> > angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
> > instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
> > to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
> > screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
> > drawings for those interested.
>



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