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Another suggestion is to use Nichrome wire and make the resistance whatever you need. Nichrome wire is what is used to make wire wound resistors. I have some and am willing to mail you a few cm/inches

A constructive criticism: Bolt holes should be drilled with clearance so 0.06 mm miss alignment will not matter, Bolts should not be used for registration, this should be done with locating dowels

I have a mag version of a real DRO on my mill: http://home.comcast.net/~ajawam3/swarf/mill_mods.html And a Shars SPC kit scale on my lathe: http://home.comcast.net/~ajawam3/swarf/lathe_mods.html Yea,

I have some scales like that. They are, in a word, unacceptable, for me. Accuracy is +/- 0.02 / 0.03 mm. This is unacceptable for anything remotely like precision. Ie two pieces, with a hole in them,

campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_1of2.pdf campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_2of2.pdf gerry waclawiak wrote:

Gerry thanks for the suggestions. I actually purchased 2 years back and still have a gallon can of WD-40 in my pole barn but never thought of using it for this purpose (aluminum turning). I'm still

Hi Mike, Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point

Hi John, A bit more sophisticated than my solution. I found that the cork from a sherry bottle (the type with a platic top/rim and a cork stopper) fits neatly without he need to do anyhing to it Gerry

thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.

It is brass. I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful. We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around

John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb From:

PS The brass plug at the end of the quill is a dirt protector. It slips into the #2 Morse taper,also doubles up as a quick locator when I mount a chuck onto my mill circular table.again the table has

A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it

Hi all, Like Jim D, I use Tap Magic mostly Diluted 1:5 with Kerosene (it is mentioned on the can that it can be diluted for recirculation systems.) on my mini mill and sometimes for finishing cuts on

Now I don't have the?Cadillac?you have but the five took out the?control?box on mine slick as a whistle be careful very very light cuts with the five you have a lot more mass to spin. Warren

Thanks Roy, The link below for the "How To Run A Lathe" book is a better copy than the one I have. So to the people I have already sent it out to via email, you may want to save a copy of the one

Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?

Here's one source: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1617/3789.pdf Here are some more South Bend books: http://wewilliams.net/SBLibrary.htm Roy

I would like a copy if possible. No rush. Bruce Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 8:37 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use Mike I would be very

Mike I would be very interested Thanks Mike@...