开云体育

There are a gaggle of odd ball threads it might be, it's close to an M4 x 0.75 (M 0.75 corresponds to 33 3/4 tpi) which isn't a common thread either!

Brazing is how the carbide is attached to the steel shank, the carbide itself is sintered. Roy

Not exactly: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cemented_carbide My point was that green wheels don't give as fine a finish as diamond wheels because the green wheels don't grind the actual carbide

Grizzly wants me to check for other damage and claims it should be ok as far as still being true. they want to send parts to fix the damaged stuff, but I was thinking either a discount if the rest is

Contact the shipping company at once and make a claim against their insurance. Sounds like the whole machine should be replaced for you. If you delay or throw away packaging material, your claim will

Hilsch was the original inventor of the vortex tube cooling system. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vortex_tube

Sounds like a fairly standard 5/32-32 thread to me. You can get these at WWW.Victornet.com. JerryK

I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a

Most cleaning rods use an 8-32 thread if they are greater than .22 caliber.? For .17 and .20, you need a 5-32 thread. -rw ________________________________ To: 7x12minilathe@... Cc: Norm

Andrew, I went down to the shop and looked at mine. The bolt threads in almost 9 threads, so if you still have 4-5 threads left, that might do it. Also a stud and nut would take some of the guess work

Hi Andrew, If you only pulled a few threads from the compound, there may be several more usable threads left. If so, get a longer bolt and cut it a 1/16" or so shy of bottoming out in the hole, but

I do have access to a drill press and mill. What I also need is a source of the insert in Australia. One with wheelchair access. That failing mail-order/Internet will be the way to go. I try and

Michael, Thanks for the response. The tool was set dead centre which might be part of the problem. I was parting a 57mm diameter piece of cast iron. The overhang might have been too much resulting in

Hello Andrew, It sounds like your parting tool was set too low on the work and was being pulled in and under the work putting excessive stress on the tool post bolt. The parting tool needs to be set

Generally you do the insert yourself. Do you have a drill press or mill? There's various types of inserts, you might be able to get by with a press fit one from the bottom. Something like this (if

I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do I get it done? More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to the surface? Cheers, Andrew

If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials. Other than

G'Day to all, My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part

M4x8 is a "metric special", i.e. not the standard thread for an M4. But it is available, e.g. the tap is available from Enco: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=97&PMITEM=319-5869 Didn't find

Best fit would probably be a BSC (British Standard Cycle) 0.1563 (5/32)" x 32 tpi, 60°. Still available from Tracy Tools in the UK, but probably unheard of on the other side of the pond. Trouble is,