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There's another other adjustment that affects the half nut/lead screw alignment.? There are two bolts that attach the apron to the saddle.? They fit into slots, so the procedure is to run the

Ok, so the apron bolt holes were not oblong a bit ? Mine were. So I could match up the apron and leadscrew. It took a bit of fiddling till I got it right. But for sure, the whole apron and leadscrew

So long as the material between jaw and material is the same on all three it is just convenience. I suspect most use drink can aluminium or tinplate.

There is no way of adjusting the split nut I an see. The lever arm and the disc with the two pegs for lock and unlock is all that is there. I thinking filing the top holes the screws fixing the apron

It was the technique I used on my last machine. I will keep an eye on it. Actually pushing the locking lever away from the user rather than to the side actually seems a better way; early days still so

Yes, the one on the right. I guessed where it went but had not realised it was reversing the lead screw. I might have made a LH thread on a lathe when I first learnt over 50 years ago but have never

That's enough information for me, many thanks!

Dont yours have an adjusting screw for how tight the half nuts tighten on the lead screw ? Mine does and it took just a slight bit of turn to prevent the half nuts from grabbing the lead screw. Or am

You are lucky your tailstock doesn't slip. It's an ongoing problem for my lathe.

Exactly - use what you have to get going is one of my mottos. :)? I've been using HSS tools and I think they work better with light cuts compared to the carbide tools I have. I bought some

I'll try that idea of hitting the edges with the grinder; thanks. Mine isn't making a lot of noise but is still a bit prone to 'catching' when the lever is turned down.

Is it one of these? One is for forward, one for reverse leadscrew movement. For traversing the carriage to the right, or cutting threads that 'reverse' is handy.

Using the stock tool post (which is the same dimensions for the 2 lathes - the MicroLux a Sieg, the Vevor a RealBull) here's a 12mm insert tool in the Vevor. The brass height gauge is at spindle

Thanks, Roy - I didn't know about those. Actually my mini (cheap) DTI will reach almost as far into the spindle as the Starrett attachment. Could a coaxial centering indicator be used for checking an

Thanks, Michael.

Your MicroMark/MicroLux lathe is a SIEG, Your Vevor lathe looks like a RealBull clone. There were some differences in the two lathes. At first glance most would identify the Vevor as a RealBull and

There's a dial indictor attachment for that! < https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/670B > Roy

Compound slide height above ways: I thought I would be able to swap tools in their QCTP holders between my Microlux 7x14 and my Vevor 7x14. Surprise! The height to the top of the compound slide is

Mark- Thanks for that info and ideas about checking the type of bearings in the Vevor. As you say, there's no easy way to get a definitive answer. I'm quite curious by nature, but even for me there's

My piece of lexan was thick enough that I could take a hair off so the shaft would fit. A gear was sticking up a tad also but since it did nothing on the part sticking up I just sanded it down till it