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I haven't looked at that nut in a long time (since I drilled the recess into it so it seats better) but is there r

If you didn't need a coupon to get the sale price and there wasn't a parking lot sale going on, that lady was full of an odorous brown substance. Sale items DO qualify for a 20% discount. If this was

An interesting experiment would be an acetal nut. Possibly someone could try it and let the group know how it worked out... Perhaps make a round acetal nut as described in the link below, plus a steel

Hi John, Andy I agreee with Andy the bronze would be the best material by some margin with brass a little better than cast iron but as with much selection in low cost equipment material cost is often

The primary adjustment is to set the centre adjuster up, with the nut close up to the handle. Feel for the middle of the range of adjustment at that point, then work on balancing the two outer

I wish you were right!? I bought my Harbor Freight 7x10 from the store on Route 1 in Peabody MA while the sale was on, and showed the checkout lady my 20% off coupon, but she said it didn't apply

I don't know, John. I can produce no authority for this, but I imagine that bronze might be the best material for feedscrew nuts. Mine was originally cast iron, but as a result of certain "unintended

Andy Franks in reply to this recent post. Do different mini lathe (Chinese manufacturers)?opt for brass and or cast iron cross feed nuts.? Does cast iron have physical self lubricating properties

I mounted my non tilting version on a flat base that is wider than the vise. This allows the use of standard T-slot clamps to secure it anywhere needed. Often the clamps will be where you need to

The nut's vertical position can be adjusted to match the CS leadscrew using the procedure given on page 13 of this LMS manual: < http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf > This

Roy, that's why the modification to the brass nut is necessary. Its easy, just follow the article and it helps the adjustment stay. John

It's already got adjusting screws! http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Tuning/tuning.htm#xbacklash They do tend to unadjust themselves, mostly from the screws vibrating loose. Some folks have shimmed

There is a pdf file with photos on the group web site of how to modify the cross slide nut and make it easier to adjust. I did the modification years ago and it makes adjusting easy. I also lapped the

Before getting involved with shims, first loosen off the rear gib adjusting screw and see if that makes any difference. If not, try loosening the two bolts which secure the bracket that carries the

I am willing to do ceramic coating of parts, or pretty much anything mailable, for some well done bearing upgrades in the cross slides of my mini lathe. I do ceramic coating as a part of my

Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the

Robert; I noticed on your link,you mentioned that you wanted to fill the apron gearbox with oil. Did you ever do this? You would not have to fill the box,only put some in the bottom,which woud travel

John Thank you very much! I will look this over when I get a chance. Dick

I installed a pair of 8mm x 22mm bearings on my handwheel shaft. Unlike most others, I put both bearings in front, with nothing in the rear. This has worked very well for me. See my post at:

Hello Dick see my link of photos. https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5760796018680783985 This modification project maybe more than you want ?to do. As I extended the cross