As you have said most people would be advised to keep well clear of any work on the bed, By and large they are pretty well finished and accurate and it is the saddle and tailstock base that need work to fit. The only exception would be the undersides of the bed as these often poorly finished and full of paint runs which can prevent the saddle retaining plates being adjusted closely or the tailstock clamping evenly.
Gerry W
Leeds UK________________________________
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: kevin.quiggle@...
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 20:52:00 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Tail stock wobble
You would lap the tailstock, not the lathe bed. I did a similar process
to my saddle a while back, and your post inspired me to finally write
it up.
You can see the write-up here:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:
>
> My tail stock has a serious wobble in it, from rear right to front
left. Causing it to center differently depending on how tight I tighten
the lock screw. The tip of the live center moves ~1/8 of an inch.
>
> I considered sanding/lapping for a better fit; but I don't want to
sand/lap away the lathe bed in the process.
>
> Ideas on how to resolve this issue?
>
> Also, is there a mod for making the side-to-side adjustment of the
tail stock easier? I mean really, who decided one of the screws should
be on the bottom?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeremy
>
|
You would lap the tailstock, not the lathe bed. I did a similar process to my saddle a while back, and your post inspired me to finally write it up.
You can see the write-up here:
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:
>
> My tail stock has a serious wobble in it, from rear right to front left. Causing it to center differently depending on how tight I tighten the lock screw. The tip of the live center moves ~1/8 of an inch.
>
> I considered sanding/lapping for a better fit; but I don't want to sand/lap away the lathe bed in the process.
>
> Ideas on how to resolve this issue?
>
> Also, is there a mod for making the side-to-side adjustment of the tail stock easier? I mean really, who decided one of the screws should be on the bottom?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jeremy
>
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
Hi Robert,
Not managed to try one myself but they get a very good write up from most people on low speed torque in particular.
That said Real Bull have not been standing idle and have fitted larger 550W motors (albeit more conventional) to their latest models which goes part way toward the Hi-Torque Sieg's (LMS etc) and better than the conventional Sieg models.RB models have traditionally seemed to enjoy a larger motor to their Sieg equivalents before the new Hi Torque motors and controllers since I bought one several years ago
Gerry W
Leeds UK
________________________________
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: rfurmanak@...
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 15:38:30 -0500
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I have played with an LMS Hi Torque machine and compared it to my
heavily modified lathe. The LMS truly is HI Torque, because it
compares favorably to my machine which has a 350 watt milling machine
motor plus a 2,2 : 1 gear reduction drive. I believe the Big Dog (Real
Bull) lathe has a 350 watt motor comparable to mine, but does not have
any additional gear reduction. Therefore, my crude estimate would be
that the LMS lathe has approximately double the low speed torque of a
Real Bull.
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of bob_guenthner
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 2:10 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I'm leaning more towards the Big Dog Metal Works 7x14. I comes with
steady and follower rest, live center and has the high/low gearbox.
Price is pushing the limits on what I can spend and even though it's a
small lathe it's will be big in my work area. But, that will change
when I get a shop built.
Bob
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Tony Smith" wrote:
>
> > Do the one's with the variable drive develop as much torque at low RPM's?
> I
> > guess the real question is, are they as goodor better than the
lathes with
> the
> > high/low?
> > Bob
>
>
> Well, LMS call them 'HiTorque', and the consensus seems to be they are much
> more capable at low revs than the standard versions.
>
> They've got a bigger motor; 500w vs 250-350W so that helps. I've got a
> standard Real Bull, and it claims to have a 350W motor.
>
> I haven't played with the newer ones, so maybe someone with experience will
> chime in.
>
> There's a comparison chart here:
>
,<>
the LMS and one
> Micro-Mark have the new motor & controller, the rest are the old style. All
> from Sieg, not that it makes a huge difference.
>
> Real Bull themselves are here:
>
,<>
in the USA the distributor
> is here:
.<>
BigDog have theirs at $750,
> which include accessories + a 4" chuck (stock is 3"). You'll still need a
> 4" 4-jaw anyway. The $650 one you were looking at may not be that great
> deal after all.
>
> There used to be large price difference (like $300) between the variants
> which seems to be vanishing; both from the standard ones getting more
> expensive, and the newer 'Super' ones getting cheaper. Neither LMS or
> BigDog stock the standard model anymore.
>
> Tony
>
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I have played with an LMS Hi Torque machine and compared it to my heavily modified lathe.? The LMS truly is HI Torque, because it compares favorably to my machine which has a 350 watt milling machine motor plus a 2,2 : 1 gear reduction drive. ?I believe the Big Dog (Real Bull) lathe has a 350 watt motor comparable to mine, but does not have any additional gear reduction.? Therefore, my crude estimate would be that the LMS lathe has approximately double the low speed torque of a Real Bull. ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of bob_guenthner
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 2:10 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?? ? I'm leaning more towards the Big Dog Metal Works 7x14. I comes with steady and follower rest, live center and has the high/low gearbox. Price is pushing the limits on what I can spend and even though it's a small lathe it's will be big in my work area. But, that will change when I get a shop built.
Bob
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Tony Smith" wrote:
>
> > Do the one's with the variable drive develop as much torque at low RPM's?
> I
> > guess the real question is, are they as goodor better than the lathes with
> the
> > high/low?
> > Bob
>
>
> Well, LMS call them 'HiTorque', and the consensus seems to be they are much
> more capable at low revs than the standard versions.
>
> They've got a bigger motor; 500w vs 250-350W so that helps. I've got a
> standard Real Bull, and it claims to have a 350W motor.
>
> I haven't played with the newer ones, so maybe someone with experience will
> chime in.
>
> There's a comparison chart here:
> the LMS and one
> Micro-Mark have the new motor & controller, the rest are the old style. All
> from Sieg, not that it makes a huge difference.
>
> Real Bull themselves are here:
> in the USA the distributor
> is here: BigDog have theirs at $750,
> which include accessories + a 4" chuck (stock is 3"). You'll still need a
> 4" 4-jaw anyway. The $650 one you were looking at may not be that great
> deal after all.
>
> There used to be large price difference (like $300) between the variants
> which seems to be vanishing; both from the standard ones getting more
> expensive, and the newer 'Super' ones getting cheaper. Neither LMS or
> BigDog stock the standard model anymore.
>
> Tony
>
|
Mike Cox shows how to make your own holder and broach:
< >
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nericarmi" wrote:
I was wondering if there is a way of making one...I just cant bring myself to pay $600 or better just for the holder
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I'm leaning more towards the Big Dog Metal Works 7x14. I comes with steady and follower rest, live center and has the high/low gearbox. Price is pushing the limits on what I can spend and even though it's a small lathe it's will be big in my work area. But, that will change when I get a shop built.
Bob
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Tony Smith" wrote:
Do the one's with the variable drive develop as much torque at low RPM's? I
guess the real question is, are they as goodor better than the lathes with the
high/low?
Bob
Well, LMS call them 'HiTorque', and the consensus seems to be they are much
more capable at low revs than the standard versions.
They've got a bigger motor; 500w vs 250-350W so that helps. I've got a
standard Real Bull, and it claims to have a 350W motor.
I haven't played with the newer ones, so maybe someone with experience will
chime in.
There's a comparison chart here:
, the LMS and one
Micro-Mark have the new motor & controller, the rest are the old style. All
from Sieg, not that it makes a huge difference.
Real Bull themselves are here:
, in the USA the distributor
is here: . BigDog have theirs at $750,
which include accessories + a 4" chuck (stock is 3"). You'll still need a
4" 4-jaw anyway. The $650 one you were looking at may not be that great
deal after all.
There used to be large price difference (like $300) between the variants
which seems to be vanishing; both from the standard ones getting more
expensive, and the newer 'Super' ones getting cheaper. Neither LMS or
BigDog stock the standard model anymore.
Tony
|
I was wondering if there is a way of making one...I just cant bring myself to pay $600 or better just for the holder
|
You can lap the tailstock by attaching sandpaper to the lathe bed with double stick tape and running the tailstock back and forth over it. You probably want to lap both sides at once so it doesn't develop a "lean." Lapping will reduce its height, so you may have to shim it up afterwards. Also, take a look at this ("removing a ridge in the "V"): There are all kinds of tailstock mods, look here for a bunch: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cptwinderatgmaildotcom" wrote:
My tail stock has a serious wobble in it, from rear right to front
left. Causing it to center differently depending on how tight I tighten the lock screw. The tip of the live center moves ~1/8 of an inch.
I considered sanding/lapping for a better fit; but I don't want to
sand/lap away the lathe bed in the process.
Ideas on how to resolve this issue?
Also, is there a mod for making the side-to-side adjustment of the
tail stock easier? I mean really, who decided one of the screws should be on the bottom?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
Dick,
?
While I already knew this it can cause a great deal of confusion. For
instance, if you have a horizontal mill with a vertical attachment and half way
through a milling job you switch from one spindle to the other do you also
change your references? Or on a combo mill like the Rockwell, where both axes
are ready to go at any time, same question. You can probably find numerous other
situations which create such confusions.
?
Even though I'm familiar with the "Z = spindle axis" concept, for
non-commercial or amateur usage it's probably more useful to adopt the terms
longitudinal, cross, and vertical, longitudinal being the long horizontal axis,
cross being the short horizontal axis, and vertical you can probably figure out
yourself.
?
I know that you can argue against what I've just said. One man's opinion.
And by the way, on a vertical mill you may very well have two vertical axes, the
quill and the knee, each of which needs to be treated separately. Yes, I know
about X, Y, Z, A, B, C, etc.
?
Anthony
Berkeley, Calif.
In a message dated Mon Feb?4,?2013 12:57?pm
(PST),?old_toolmaker writes:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On a
lathe the long axis which is parallel to the bed is known as the z axis. This
can be confusing because when you stand in front of a vertical mill the right
to left axis is the x axis. Despite what may seem logical, the axis of the
revolving spindle is the z axis.
The z axis on a vertical mill is the
spindle axis, the z axis of a horizontal mill is the axis of the
spindle.
|
Hello Paul. Very nice to read your post. If it is?permissible?from the moderators, please could you post pictures of? your work shop and environment,I am sure we could all learn from them. Most of us are not as young as we
think,and some hints on how to re-arrange things for physically impaired people?in small workshops (especially mine) would be more than interesting. If the moderators say it is Off Topic,a private e mail to me would be great. Thanks, best regards John L Spain.
From: Paul King
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe height
?
??? The Dr.'s disabled me from work where I've been working in the Coal Mines since 1975. I had to figure out how to fix my shop to ergonomically fit me. I made a blueprint of what was going where. I looked at the Spec.'s on each piece of equipment to figure out how & where to make my benches.
??? It sure has saved me a lot of pain and moving around. I had a right wrist fusion in
94 which was the second surgery i had on it. I been working around physical? impairments since 1978.
??? It is second hand to me to think about these barriers since. It makes a big difference if your going to be at a certain place for any length of time.
Paul? ??
From: John Lindo
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Wednesday, February
6, 2013 12:54 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe height
?
Elbow height is good.. Try and avoid using stools or chairs. It's not easy to see over the top of the machine and is easier to have the chips hit your face.even worse, something flies out of the
chuck,which can happen.And on that point,it's not easy to tighten a chuck or collet sitting down. Also if you have a confined workshop,the stool is always in the way. Exceptions of course if you are unfortunate to be disabled.
John L Spain
From: Jerry Durand
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe height
?
Lathe should be about elbow height...more or less to personal taste.
On 02/05/2013 05:47 PM, Ebner Heating
Air Conditioning Co. wrote:
I'm getting a
heavy bench set up to accept my lathe. After bolting a heavy
set of casters that were sized to accept the 400 pound
weight I ended up with a bench that is to high to
comfortably work while sitting on a stool. My question would
be is there a rule of thumb 'height wise" that?I should
shoot for? I don't want to cut the legs off so that the
bench ends up to low.
?
Thanks Mike
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
My tail stock has a serious wobble in it, from rear right to front left. Causing it to center differently depending on how tight I tighten the lock screw. The tip of the live center moves ~1/8 of an inch.
I considered sanding/lapping for a better fit; but I don't want to sand/lap away the lathe bed in the process.
Ideas on how to resolve this issue?
Also, is there a mod for making the side-to-side adjustment of the tail stock easier? I mean really, who decided one of the screws should be on the bottom?
Thanks in advance,
Jeremy
|
Re: 100mm spindle source in US?
Im going with AC ball bearings.
This is on a custom made CNC mini lathe. My buddy steve built it a few years ago, and I ended up with it. Just stepping it up a little.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" wrote:
Glad to be able to help. Mike of this Group put one on his Clarke (rebadged Sieg) 7x lathe, and fitted taper roller bearings to the spindle at the same time - something you might like to consider. See
< >
Andy
|
10" bed, lead-screw, tool post.
Will swap for parts, tooling, back-lash mods to the hand controls, pieces of lead or good metal to work, leather tools or supplies, old, cool stuff, what-ever.
I also do ceramic coating of parts to offer for swapping.
|
??? The Dr.'s disabled me from work where I've been working in the Coal Mines since 1975. I had to figure out how to fix my shop to ergonomically fit me. I made a blueprint of what was going where. I looked at the Spec.'s on each piece of equipment to figure out how & where to make my benches.
??? It sure has saved me a lot of pain and moving around. I had a right wrist fusion in
94 which was the second surgery i had on it. I been working around physical? impairments since 1978.
??? It is second hand to me to think about these barriers since. It makes a big difference if your going to be at a certain place for any length of time.
Paul? ??
From: John Lindo
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Wednesday, February
6, 2013 12:54 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe height
?
Elbow height is good.. Try and avoid using stools or chairs. It's not easy to see over the top of the machine and is easier to have the chips hit your face.even worse, something flies out of the
chuck,which can happen.And on that point,it's not easy to tighten a chuck or collet sitting down. Also if you have a confined workshop,the stool is always in the way. Exceptions of course if you are unfortunate to be disabled.
John L Spain
From: Jerry Durand
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 2:52 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] lathe height
?
Lathe should be about elbow height...more or less to personal taste.
On 02/05/2013 05:47 PM, Ebner Heating
Air Conditioning Co. wrote:
I'm getting a
heavy bench set up to accept my lathe. After bolting a heavy
set of casters that were sized to accept the 400 pound
weight I ended up with a bench that is to high to
comfortably work while sitting on a stool. My question would
be is there a rule of thumb 'height wise" that?I should
shoot for? I don't want to cut the legs off so that the
bench ends up to low.
?
Thanks Mike
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
Sit on your chair or stool, measure down to the floor what ever is comfortable to you to operate your lathe. Since we are all different heights,there is no set bench height.My bench is 36" high. The stool is 18" high. mike
From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:47 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] lathe height
?
I'm getting a heavy bench set
up to accept my lathe. After bolting a heavy set of casters that were sized to
accept the 400 pound weight I ended up with a bench that is to high to
comfortably work while sitting on a stool. My question would be is there a rule
of thumb 'height wise" that?I should shoot for? I don't want to cut the
legs off so that the bench ends up to low.
?
Thanks
Mike
|
I used my neighbor's floor standing wood lathe one day and it was at the perfect height for me. When I set up my 8x wood lathe I measured his from spindle to floor and it was 44" so I set mine to the same height. Out of curiousity I measured my 7x metal lathe and it too was 44". I'm 6' tall if that helps. On Tue, 5 Feb 2013, Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co. wrote: I'm getting a heavy bench set up to accept my lathe. After bolting a
heavy set of casters that were sized to accept the 400 pound weight I
ended up with a bench that is to high to comfortably work while sitting
on a stool. My question would be is there a rule of thumb 'height wise"
that I should shoot for? I don't want to cut the legs off so that the
bench ends up to low.
Thanks Mike
Vince. -- Michigan VHF Corp. The Foggy Mist Emporium
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I have the LMS 4100. THE BLDC and Atmel-based control are great. Yes, I've stallled it both on my mill (LMS Hi torque with extended solid column) and lathe. On the mill it went into protection. On the lathe I caught it early enough before the microcontroller caught it and flagged the protection fault.
The Atmel uC uses a set of IGBT's for the motor drivers:
As to torque - snapped a 1/4" endmill on the mill - a faulty rotary table setup let go due to my stupid. Lots of power. Nice dent in the wall where it hit.
The difference is that the Atmel microcontroller will make up torque when it detects the encoder slowing down. At low speed it chugs a bit; not enough to affect what I do.
The motor gets about 147d F after running a while.
FLIR images of my mill
FLIR PDF report
Don Leitch wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Gerry the brushless motor in my sc3 is hugely different than in my gaui x5 heli, I can't believe the power that little beast has its nasty , and some one wants more power, with 12 cell battery yikes.
sorry about subject change, I shut up now.
Don
On 7/02/2013, at 12:27 AM, gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@...> wrote:
Andy,
I agree with what you say about speeds, my RB is several years old and the two ranges run to 1250 and 2500rpm approx.
The torque at low speed does depend to a considerable extent to how well the control board is set up but it is not as good as the new single speed hi-tech motor versions. One word of warning though, the cooling of the motor fan falls as a square of the speed so at low speed is negligible so it is relatively easy to fry he motor without realising.
As you say the motors and controllers in the top line single speed models are the same as used in the best electric flying models. They exhibit excellent torque even at low speed (which is how they can dispense with the 2 speed ranges in our lathes and mills), I have them in my model helicopters
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: andyf.1108@...
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 11:17:10 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I'm sure you're right, and that it should read 50 to 1250 in Low, 100 to 2500 in High. Whether there's enough torque at the lower end of either range to be useful is perhaps questionable.
I understand that the brushless motor on the new super-duper gearless Sieg is better in that respect. It seems to be a grown-up version of the powerful little electric motors used in model aircraft nowadays.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Tony Smith" wrote:
Tony, the "new" verion in your second link still has a gearbox, if the
statement as
to spindle speed in the table below the picture is anything to go by. It
says:
"Spindle speed 50-2500/100-2500RPM", which seems to indicate two speed
ranges.
Seems to be just a bit of Chinglish.
It's not much of gearbox if it only changes between 50 & 100 RPM for the low
range.
Actually the description on the old version is the same, so it's wrong too.
Low should be 50-1100 or some like that.
Tony
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
Actually I think I’m wrong, it seems the ‘new’ versions just have fancier controls, but are the same PWM DC drives, not the brushless 3-phase drive the Sieg has. ? They’re 550W vs 250W so they’ll have more power than most of these lathes, but still. ? No-one seems keen to show a photo of the back of the lathe – the hi-lo lever would be a giveaway. ? I’m sure I’ve seen RB ‘super’ variants, maybe I saw ‘500W motor’ and assumed it was the same as the Siegs. ? Tony ? ? ? ? I agree with Tony on this
Reading the two spec sheets the only difference appears to be the digital readout and relocation of the speed and direction knobs down onto the face of the cover. The mechanical specs and general appearance seem identical indicating the two speed gearbox. Motor power is a decent enough 550W
If there is a RB with the new hi-tech motor and control to match the top of line Sieg (US LMS versions) it hasn't reached the UK as far as I am aware.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: ajsmith1968@...
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 19:59:53 +1100
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
? > I'd be slightly wary, Bob. Hitherto, Real Bull mini-lathes have all had
two speed
> ranges with the usual hi/lo gears.
>
> Of course, it may be that they have decided to produce a version with a
> brushless motor and no gearbox, to compete with the one Sieg have produced
> and which LMS sells as the Hi-Torque.
>
> If there is a picture on Ebay,look for a nut on the RH end of the
leadscrew and a
> rectangular saddle. Siegs don't have the nut, and their saddles are
H-shaped.
Real Bull have had the 'Super' version of their lathe for a while.
Old: (I've got
one of these, same colour too).
New:
The chip guard around the toolpost is new. That'll get annoying fast.
Same deal for the mill-mills they make.
Tony
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
Gerry the brushless motor in my sc3 is hugely different than in my gaui x5 heli, I can't believe the power that little beast has its nasty , and some one wants more power, with 12 cell battery yikes. sorry about subject change, I shut up now.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 7/02/2013, at 12:27 AM, gerry waclawiak < gerrywac@...> wrote:
?
Andy,
I agree with what you say about speeds, my RB is several years old and the two ranges run to 1250 and 2500rpm approx.
The torque at low speed does depend to a considerable extent to how well the control board is set up but it is not as good as the new single speed hi-tech motor versions. One word of warning though, the cooling of the motor fan falls as a square of the speed so at low speed is negligible so it is relatively easy to fry he motor without realising.
As you say the motors and controllers in the top line single speed models are the same as used in the best electric flying models. They exhibit excellent torque even at low speed (which is how they can dispense with the 2 speed ranges in our lathes and mills), I have them in my model helicopters
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...From: andyf.1108@...Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 11:17:10 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
?
I'm sure you're right, and that it should read 50 to 1250 in Low, 100 to 2500 in High. Whether there's enough torque at the lower end of either range to be useful is perhaps questionable.
I understand that the brushless motor on the new super-duper gearless Sieg is better in that respect. It seems to be a grown-up version of the powerful little electric motors used in model aircraft nowadays.
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Tony Smith" wrote:
>
> > Tony, the "new" verion in your second link still has a gearbox, if the
> statement as
> > to spindle speed in the table below the picture is anything to go by. It
> says:
> > "Spindle speed 50-2500/100-2500RPM", which seems to indicate two speed
> > ranges.
>
>
> Seems to be just a bit of Chinglish.
>
> It's not much of gearbox if it only changes between 50 & 100 RPM for the low
> range.
>
> Actually the description on the old version is the same, so it's wrong too.
> Low should be 50-1100 or some like that.
>
> Tony
>
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
I agree with Tony on this
Reading the two spec sheets the only difference appears to be the digital readout and relocation of the speed and direction knobs down onto the face of the cover. The mechanical specs and general appearance seem identical indicating the two speed gearbox. Motor power is a decent enough 550W
If there is a RB with the new hi-tech motor and control to match the top of line Sieg (US LMS versions) it hasn't reached the UK as far as I am aware.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: ajsmith1968@... Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 19:59:53 +1100 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
?
> I'd be slightly wary, Bob. Hitherto, Real Bull mini-lathes have all had
two speed
> ranges with the usual hi/lo gears.
>
> Of course, it may be that they have decided to produce a version with a
> brushless motor and no gearbox, to compete with the one Sieg have produced
> and which LMS sells as the Hi-Torque.
>
> If there is a picture on Ebay,look for a nut on the RH end of the
leadscrew and a
> rectangular saddle. Siegs don't have the nut, and their saddles are
H-shaped.
Real Bull have had the 'Super' version of their lathe for a while.
Old: (I've got
one of these, same colour too).
New:
The chip guard around the toolpost is new. That'll get annoying fast.
Same deal for the mill-mills they make.
Tony
|
gerry waclawiak
GadgetBuilder