Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Hardware stores sell acetone in quart cans quite cheaply.? One can should last a lifetime of CA removal and removal of your wife's nail polish.
Colin.
From: SirJohnOfYork To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, 7 February 2013, 0:53
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno
?
?Borrow somebody's Nail
Polish Remover. Make sure it is acetone based. Given a little soak
time it'll turn the glue into goo, and separation & clean up
gets easy after that. My first experience with Super Glue ()
for work holding, was making two headed (and two tailed) coins.
Held a lot better than I expected. If I were to offer advice to
anyone it would be to simply follow the directions - using too
much glue is as bad or worse than not using enough. A small drop
goes a long way...!
?My wife hit the local Dollar Store and picked up a couple bottles
of acetone based Nail Polish Remover for, you guessed it, $1 each.
Will probably last for quite awhile yet, since I can use the
bottle cap to soak the coins in, so it doesn't take very much. (I
glued coins to the end of a short length of a freshly faced steel
bar, then used a dial indicator to center the coin in my 4-jaw
chuck). Afterwards I just stood the bar vertically on the coin end
which was sitting in a cap full of nail polish remover, and let it
soak for awhile...
?John Z.
On 2/6/2013 10:23 PM, zl1atb wrote:
?
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to
attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning
both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to
seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still
held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I
should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
|
When I read that "wondering if there is a way of making one" I thought
someone must have made the first one, eh? And if that's so, everything had
to be done at least once , for the first time.
Now, I've been using a ball tip Allen wrench in a battery powered
screwdriver for power cross & topslide feeds on my 7x lathes for about 10
years, and find that HSM has an article on doing this for a quick traverse
on the Bridgeport in the new issue..
Mert
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-----Original Message----- From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of GadgetBuilder Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 3:09 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: rotary broach Mike Cox shows how to make your own holder and broach: < > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nericarmi" wrote:
I was wondering if there is a way of making one...I just cant bring myself
to pay $600 or better just for the holder ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
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Re: 100mm spindle source in US?
The prize-winning Stepperhead is my favourite:
Its plans and construction are currently serialised in?Model Engineers' Workshop. I just wish I had the skills and time!
Andy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., cnc sales wrote: > > This is one of the nicest scratch built lathes I know of. > And one of less than 10 finished - scratch built cnc latehs are very rare. > > Equally rare are scratch built cnc mills.. > I know of about 5 in total. > (Mills as in of and for steel, with milling spindle. Not routers for alu). > > > Im going with AC ball bearings. > > This is on a custom made CNC mini lathe. My buddy steve built it a few > > years ago, and I ended up with it. Just stepping it up a little. > > > > http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/24690-My-cnc-bench-lathe-build > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@... > > , "andyf1108" wrote: > > > > > > Glad to be able to help. Mike of this Group put one on his Clarke > > (rebadged Sieg) 7x lathe, and fitted taper roller bearings to the > > spindle at the same time - something you might like to consider. See > > > < http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/headstock-upgrade.html > > > > > > > Andy > > > > >
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cnc sales wrote.......There is a very easy way to remember the axis
designations. The lathe is a horizontal mill. You stand at the TS and look
towards the HS.
x is right, y is up, and z is towards
you........
?
Correct and the reasons for keeping it standard. As
I mentioned earlier, it is easier to think of the axis in relation to the
workholder, as he outlined above. Then it doesn't matter what machine you are
using, we all talk the same language.
Cheers.
????????
Ellis
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Re: 100mm spindle source in US?
This is one of the nicest scratch built
lathes I know of.
And one of less than 10 finished - scratch built cnc latehs are
very rare.
Equally rare are scratch built cnc mills..
I know of about 5 in total.
(Mills as in of and for steel, with milling spindle. Not routers
for alu).
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?
Im going with AC ball bearings.
This is on a custom made CNC mini lathe. My buddy steve
built it a few years ago, and I ended up with it. Just
stepping it up a little.
--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
"andyf1108" wrote:
>
> Glad to be able to help. Mike of this Group put one
on his Clarke (rebadged Sieg) 7x lathe, and fitted taper
roller bearings to the spindle at the same time -
something you might like to consider. See
> <
>
>
> Andy
|
No, no, no, no !
There are LOTS of excellent reasons never to swap the
designations.
For cnc use especially.
There is tool tip compensation, tool wear compensation, css (very
very important), feed per rev, and so on, all of which are always
based on using std nomenclature for the axis.
There is a very easy way to remember the axis designations.
The lathe is a horizontal mill.
You stand at the TS and look towards the HS.
x is right, y is up, and z is towards you.
(Also known ass Right Hand Rule [follow the thumb]).
If you use other non std axis names, and ever get to use someone
eless, anyone elses setup, this can easily come back to bite you.
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Might I suggest Gentlemen, that your choice of
X,Y,Z axes very much depends on the tools you use and
your own personal perspective.
If you
use a CAD package it might make more sense to
follow?the XY&Z perspective it offers.
If you
are a mathematician X would be Horizontal from left to
right?Y your Vertical (Up Down) and Z your other
horizontal of backwards and forwards.
I think
it all comes down to your own personal preference and
possibly the tool you use?
Ask any
mathematician why they use XY&Z and they will tell
you that they are just arbitrary values!
?
John
Kiely (IRL)
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Thanks ?everyone I got it off , I tried heat and acetone? (nail polish remover) Man that stuff gives me a headache, where as laquer paint thinners doesn't. Nearly as nasty as two pack paint . I did use too much cyno on faced surfaces , nowhere for the acetone to sink in. Don ?
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From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Tony Smith
Sent: Thursday, 7 February 2013 5:54 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno? ? > I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to
dress
> them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember
> how to seperate the turned piece.
> I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
> I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it,
hoping the
> cyno will break down.
> Don
Like other said heat works well.
Most adhesives soften or break down about 70 degrees Celcius (~160F). This
is very handy to know if you want to get a decal or similar off without
damaging it. I usually put them in the oven at around 100c (212F - boiling
water temperature) and they'll peel off easily enough.
Works well on things like the little surrounds you find on ignition locks.
Plastics are ok at that temperature (acrylic melts at 140C), I once removed
a thin aluminium bezel off a plastic watch, powder coated it and put it
back.
Tony
|
anyone have an enco promo code??? I need some more Rapid Tap oil, and they have a great price, but was hoping for free shipping ;-) ? or any other promo codes out there? ? thanks! Mike B
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
?Borrow somebody's Nail
Polish Remover. Make sure it is acetone based. Given a little soak
time it'll turn the glue into goo, and separation & clean up
gets easy after that. My first experience with Super Glue ()
for work holding, was making two headed (and two tailed) coins.
Held a lot better than I expected. If I were to offer advice to
anyone it would be to simply follow the directions - using too
much glue is as bad or worse than not using enough. A small drop
goes a long way...!
?My wife hit the local Dollar Store and picked up a couple bottles
of acetone based Nail Polish Remover for, you guessed it, $1 each.
Will probably last for quite awhile yet, since I can use the
bottle cap to soak the coins in, so it doesn't take very much. (I
glued coins to the end of a short length of a freshly faced steel
bar, then used a dial indicator to center the coin in my 4-jaw
chuck). Afterwards I just stood the bar vertically on the coin end
which was sitting in a cap full of nail polish remover, and let it
soak for awhile...
?John Z.
On 2/6/2013 10:23 PM, zl1atb wrote:
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?
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to
attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning
both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to
seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still
held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I
should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
Not sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at 1150.00 my 10x22
from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it replaced. I lost the 7x12 to
thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14 for around
$800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife wasn't so happy
with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger I'm glad I got it. It
comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest, follow rest, mt4
center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in till you get a bench
made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I had lots of fun learning
with it.
Dennis It is indeed several times the lathe: (that's a 7x10, but close enough). Tony
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Re: seperating workpiece cyno
That's what I thought I was going to be able to do . But its ali and I didn't want to ding it, I tried with a plastic mallet , nothing happened. I made a cpl punch and base tools for separating bearings from nylon crown and pinion gears on r/c helicopters, now members of the club have seen them, and everyone wants one, so trying to use all the off cuts. When I had a wood lathe, ?I had jaws to hold everything,? this little 3¡± chuck is rather limited in that respect. Don ?
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From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jerry Durand
Sent: Thursday, 7 February 2013 5:42 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno? ? Back when we used superglue to attach accelerometers we detached them by
striking the side. Superglue doesn't hold well in shear.
On 02/06/2013 07:23 PM, zl1atb wrote:
> I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to seperate the turned piece.
> I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
> I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
> Don
>
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
Re: Real Bull 7x14 lathe questions?
Not sure of the price range you guys are looking at,but at 1150.00 my 10x22 from grizzly is several times the lathe that the 7x12 it replaced. I lost the 7x12 to thieves last winter, and got the 10x22 as I kept seeing the 7x14 for around $800+ with a bit less than what the 10x22 came with. The wife wasn't so happy with the extra cost, but now that i'm getting used to the bigger I'm glad I got it. It comes with 5" 3 jaw, 6" four jaw chuck, face plate, steady rest, follow rest, mt4 center, mt3 center, plus a little tool box to hold the tools in till you get a bench made. I still miss the 7x12 tho, it was my first lathe and I had lots of fun learning with it.
Dennis
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember
how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don Like other said heat works well. Most adhesives soften or break down about 70 degrees Celcius (~160F). This is very handy to know if you want to get a decal or similar off without damaging it. I usually put them in the oven at around 100c (212F - boiling water temperature) and they'll peel off easily enough. Works well on things like the little surrounds you find on ignition locks. Plastics are ok at that temperature (acrylic melts at 140C), I once removed a thin aluminium bezel off a plastic watch, powder coated it and put it back. Tony
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Back when we used superglue to attach accelerometers we detached them by
striking the side. Superglue doesn't hold well in shear.
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On 02/06/2013 07:23 PM, zl1atb wrote: I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Try acetone, I've seen superglue used to hold down printed circuit boards for milling and after it's done they put on acetone to release it from the mill table !
|
--- On Wed, 2/6/13, zl1atb wrote:
From: zl1atb
Subject: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Wednesday, February 6, 2013, 7:23 PM
?
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Thanks for the options guys that was quick. Don ?
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From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of zl1atb
Sent: Thursday, 7 February 2013 4:24 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno? ? I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Don they make a
debonder that can be sprayed on your superglue. Try
HobbyKing
?
Mike
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?
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to
dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant
remember how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it
held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic
mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break
down.
Don
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
John,
I agree with you, axis designations are arbitrary. But in the world of machine tools, builders found it necessary to standardize the designation of axes in order to eliminate confusion.
The first machine tool builder guideline is, the linear axis that moves parallel to the "main" spindle's centerline is designated Z axis.
The second machine tool builder guideline that pertains to a milling type machine is, the longest travel axis is designated X axis. The remaining axis of a three axis machine tool is designated the Y axis.
I have done a bit of researching since this discusion began and there is a lot of info out there on the web that can shed more light on this subject if anyone is interested. The origins of the "Cartesian System" go back several hundred years and make interesting reading.
Dick
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Kiely wrote:
Might I suggest Gentlemen, that your choice of X,Y,Z axes very much depends on the tools you use and your own personal perspective.
If you use a CAD package it might make more sense to follow?the XY&Z perspective it offers.
If you are a mathematician X would be Horizontal from left to right?Y your Vertical (Up Down) and Z your other horizontal of backwards and forwards.
I think it all comes down to your own personal preference and possibly the tool you use?
Ask any mathematician why they use XY&Z and they will tell you that they are just arbitrary values!
?
John Kiely (IRL)
________________________________
From: "anthrhodes@..."
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 6:04 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
Dick,
While I already knew this it can cause a great deal of confusion. For instance, if you have a horizontal mill with a vertical attachment and half way through a milling job you switch from one spindle to the other do you also change your references? Or on a combo mill like the Rockwell, where both axes are ready to go at any time, same question. You can probably find numerous other situations which create such confusions.
Even though I'm familiar with the "Z = spindle axis" concept, for non-commercial or amateur usage it's probably more useful to adopt the terms longitudinal, cross, and vertical, longitudinal being the long horizontal axis, cross being the short horizontal axis, and vertical you can probably figure out yourself.
I know that you can argue against what I've just said. One man's opinion. And by the way, on a vertical mill you may very well have two vertical axes, the quill and the knee, each of which needs to be treated separately. Yes, I know about X, Y, Z, A, B, C, etc.
Anthony
Berkeley, Calif.
In a message dated Mon Feb?4,?2013 12:57?pm (PST),?old_toolmaker writes:
On a lathe the long axis which is parallel to the bed is known as the z axis. This can be confusing because when you stand in front of a vertical mill the right to left axis is the x axis. Despite what may seem logical, the axis of the revolving spindle is the z axis.
The z axis on a vertical mill is the spindle axis, the z axis of a horizontal mill is the axis of the spindle.
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Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Soak in a covered jar of acetone.
If that does not work,try a heat gun,it will soften,and if hotter,will burn off.
|
--- On Thu, 2/7/13, zl1atb wrote:
From: zl1atb
Subject: [7x12minilathe] seperating workpiece cyno
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 3:23 AM
?
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
|
seperating workpiece cyno
I saw a few weeks back guys using cyno superglue to attach small pieces to dress them up,someone was turning both sides of a narrow washer, I cant remember how to seperate the turned piece.
I glued some 2 inch ali bar it held good , now ?its still held good .
I tried hitting it with a plastic mallet , wondering If I should soak it, hoping the cyno will break down.
Don
|
OldToolmaker
maschwiebert