Re: Which lube do you use
Hi Colin,
the small Dremel and clone mini-drills are a good size to compliment the mini-mill and they have a circular mounting collar so it is relatively easy to knock together a mount to fit into the tool post.
As Mark mentioned it is VITAL that you clean up thoroughly and relube after EVERY grinding session, any grinding dust will do your lathe no good at all. The dust also travels so covering other tools and machinery is a good idea too.
I normally clean and relube the lathe and mill after every machining session, they are small enough to do quickly and it prevents any risk of staining.
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: colinmeister@... Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 06:17:16 -0800 Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
What tool post grinder do you use on your mini lathe?? Who supplies them and how much do they cost?
?Colin.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Mark Schwiebert
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013, 8:41
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
As far as cutting oils attacking the cast iron;
Water based oils will,if the concentration is too weak.
I use a mist unit for tool post grinding.
When I am finished grinding on my lathe,I wipe the lathe down with a towel, blow any moisture out from under the carriage,cross slide,etc., and oil it.
Sulpher based oils will sometimes stain the cast iron,but a scotch brite pad,will shine it back up.
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, gerry waclawiak wrote:
From: gerry waclawiak
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 10:34 AM
?
Hi Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve the finish.
I always find that net oil applied from a small oil bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot
cheaper and will last
forever.Kerosene is also good for ally.
If you only use small quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use ?
Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication ,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work?will be done with aluminum.
?
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Your Welcome Mike,
WD40 is a pretty rubbish lubricant but it is very hand around the shop for cleaning up? and working on aluminium. It is good for drilling and tapping ally too - I use it a lot with my mini-mill as well as the lathe.
Good luck with the lathe, let us know how you get on or have any problems,
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 06:21:52 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
?
Gerry thanks for
the suggestions. I actually purchased 2 years back and still have a gallon can
of WD-40 in my pole barn but never thought of using it for this purpose
(aluminum turning). I'm still getting my lathe set up but getting closer and
much more anxious to try it out.
?
Cheers,
Mike
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Hi
Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be
fine but anything diluted with water is
to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve
the finish.
I always find that net
oil applied from a small oil
bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have
an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot cheaper and will
last forever.Kerosene is also good for
ally.
If you only use small
quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon,
4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you
use ?
Would
cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original
reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast
iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..."
<7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53
PM
Subject: Re:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron
I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on
brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring
or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real
pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did
not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I
got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid
brushes a plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback
book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication
,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer
sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there
publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will
inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a
rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air
Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February
4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube
do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already
been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting
tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being
machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked
in cutting oil? Most of my
work?will be done with aluminum.
?
Also is there any one book that stands
out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might
recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version:
2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date:
02/04/13
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
great link on how digital calipers work
WAM wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Here's a link to a pic of the one I cut for my Taig lathe:
that's what's under the reader and what's under the scale decal that has the inch/mm numbers.
I cut mine and had no issue. I will say that there are usually small copper or brass shims; some cheaper units like the 4" at Michael's Art's and Supplies lack them; I had to cut some brass shim stock to make them work.
The shims go above and below the traces on the reader head where the mounting holes attach it to the back.
There's a microcontroller of some sort counting those pulses... read my Shars' Reader head mod on some of the caveats of powering scales rant on my lathe mod page:
From wiki :
"Some digital calipers contain a capacitive linear encoder <>. A pattern of bars is etched directly on the printed circuit board <> in the slider. Under the scale of the caliper another printed circuit board also contains an etched pattern of lines. The combination of these printed circuit boards forms two variable capacitors <>. The two capacitances are out of phase. As the slider moves the capacitance changes in a linear fashion and in a repeating pattern. The circuitry built into the slider counts the bars as the slider moves and does a linear interpolation based on the magnitudes of the capacitors to find the precise position of the slider. Other digital calipers contain an inductive linear encoder, which allows robust performance in the presence of contamination such as coolants [1] <>. Magnetic linear encoders are used in yet other digital calipers.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
John;
Did you cut down the scale for your DRO ?
I cut off a cheap Caliper,an it no longer read right.
What is in the scale,that makes them work ?
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, Don Leitch <don@...> wrote:
From: Don Leitch <don@...>
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 8:56 AM
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
Don
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gear adapter from an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John
From: Don Leitch <don@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i returned to find it had melted the some of the push buttons.
I was devastated,immediately rang Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
John L
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
Here's a link to a pic of the one I cut for my Taig lathe:
that's what's under the reader and what's under the scale decal that has the inch/mm numbers.
I cut mine and had no issue. I will say that there are usually small copper or brass shims; some cheaper units like the 4" at Michael's Art's and Supplies lack them; I had to cut some brass shim stock to make them work.
The shims go above and below the traces on the reader head where the mounting holes attach it to the back.
There's a microcontroller of some sort counting those pulses... read my Shars' Reader head mod on some of the caveats of powering scales rant on my lathe mod page:
From wiki :
"Some digital calipers contain a capacitive linear encoder <>. A pattern of bars is etched directly on the printed circuit board <> in the slider. Under the scale of the caliper another printed circuit board also contains an etched pattern of lines. The combination of these printed circuit boards forms two variable capacitors <>. The two capacitances are out of phase. As the slider moves the capacitance changes in a linear fashion and in a repeating pattern. The circuitry built into the slider counts the bars as the slider moves and does a linear interpolation based on the magnitudes of the capacitors to find the precise position of the slider. Other digital calipers contain an inductive linear encoder, which allows robust performance in the presence of contamination such as coolants [1] <>. Magnetic linear encoders are used in yet other digital calipers.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John;
Did you cut down the scale for your DRO ?
I cut off a cheap Caliper,an it no longer read right.
What is in the scale,that makes them work ?
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, Don Leitch <don@...> wrote:
From: Don Leitch <don@...>
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 8:56 AM
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
Don
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:
It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gear adapter from an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John
From: Don Leitch <don@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i returned to find it had melted the some of the push buttons.
I was devastated,immediately rang Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
John L
|
Chassis mount current sense:
resistors/66696?k=0.025%20resistor
Typ Thru hole:
%2C40328&k=0.025+resistor&vendor=0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ptm=0
&fid=0&quantity=0&stock=1
there's two pages of results.. I don't think their postage is going to be any less than the bloke on eBay. Find the part was easy, shipping not so much. Tony
|
Plus a decent meter.? Most won’t handle stuff down in the 0.022 ohm range all that well. ? Tony ? ? ? Another suggestion is to use Nichrome wire and make the resistance whatever you need. Nichrome wire is what is used to make wire wound resistors.
I have some and am willing to mail you a few cm/inches to try.
Cheers,
_,_._,___
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
So You are saing re> linear scales,
that they should be used to cut inaccurate hole locations for
dowel pins ..
On a linear scale thread ?
The bolt holes are used as a metaphor for just how inaccurate the
calipers and cheap magnetic scales are.
Commonly, holes are drilled to put a bolt through.
Where the holes are misaligned, by 0.06 mm, typically even normal
(ie undersize) bolts will not necessarily fit.
You are right Malcolm but it is not the point.
The point is that the small calipers and cheap scales are
inaccurate.
Nevertheless.
Many users manage to use these with some success-
usually, because the scales may repeat well to a given locality.
Indeed, I suspect many do repeat well to a given locality (due to
the nature of capacitance systems used to build them).
So, the holes and scales are not in the right place, or the right
size, but as long as you make two same size holes, in the same
place, you are unlikely to get great errors.
Nevertheless, the holes are in the wrong place, the wrong size,
and wont fit someone elses work.
I think new users, especially thoses asking about scales, are not
aware of this inherent error.
I also think 99% of the cheap DRO look-alikes are junk and do not
perform anywhere near to what a DRO should do.
Thus, I think it is prudent to advise people about this.
Just because a measuring instrument has a digital readout does not
make it true or accurate.
Just because a manufacturer makes something that looks like a DRO,
and sells it as such, does not mean this is correct.
Often, users will then blame their lathe (or skills), when the
problem is lack of accurate measurement.
A little 7x lathe is perfectly capable of making 0.01 mm precision
class work.
I think anyone can do so, with some practice.
The best tool for this, imo, and ime, is a digital 0-1 inch micron
micrometer. For 70-80 � most anyone can afford one.
Better is a real DRO, but these cost about 400 so it is a whole
lot more money.
Nevertheless, one could allow your work to be much better, much
faster, especially when learning.
I started with the lathe with the intention of making bearing
pockets.
Thus, I quickly learned the difference between press fits, loose
fits and classes of fits, and have gone on to know when and why
0.02 mm matters a lot.
?
A
constructive criticism:
Bolt holes should be drilled with clearance so
0.06 mm miss alignment will not matter, Bolts
should not be used for registration, this should
be done with locating dowels
Malcolm.
|
|
Re: Which lube do you use
What tool post grinder do you use on your mini lathe?? Who supplies them and how much do they cost?
?Colin.
From: Mark Schwiebert
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013, 8:41
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
As far as cutting oils attacking the cast iron;
Water based oils will,if the concentration is too weak.
I use a mist unit for tool post grinding.
When I am finished grinding on my lathe,I wipe the lathe down with a towel, blow any moisture out from under the carriage,cross slide,etc., and oil it.
Sulpher based oils will sometimes stain the cast iron,but a scotch brite pad,will shine it back up.
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, gerry waclawiak wrote:
From: gerry waclawiak
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 10:34 AM
?
Hi Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve the finish.
I always find that net oil applied from a small oil bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot
cheaper and will last
forever.Kerosene is also good for ally.
If you only use small quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use ?
Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication ,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work?will be done with aluminum.
?
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
|
Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
John;
Did you cut down the scale for your DRO ?
I cut off a cheap Caliper,an it no longer read right.
What is in the scale,that makes them work ?
|
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, Don Leitch wrote:
From: Don Leitch
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 8:56 AM
?
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo <> wrote:
?
It is brass.
I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful.
We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here.
Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here.
even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve.
Brass is so easy to machine and braze.
Best regards
John
From: Don Leitch <>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos?
Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb.
Don zl1atb
?
From: [] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
?
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch.
I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons.
I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out.
I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh.
My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use.
The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day.
I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work.
but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted.
Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the
tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces.
You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted.
If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from?
going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew.
I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot.
So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and
sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew.
The sideways motion has now gone away.
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Jim;
I also use one of the accordian type bottles,for sulpher based,and kerosene.
I got mine , left over from printer ink refill kit.
What I really like about them,is you can put the needle in a cut while parting,and keep the oil where it is needed,and after a little squeeze,it will gravity feed the oil.
I used to use a chip brush to apply oil,but on deep cuts,I had to apply a lot to try and get it in a cut, and wasted a lot.
I also like them ,for tapping small holes,you can put that tiny drop needed on a #2 tap.
The only thing I do not like about them,is I have to put the oil in a pump oiler to fill the squeeze bottle, or spend 10 min. trying to hold the funnel,while the oil drips in.
|
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, Jim Dunmyer wrote:
From: Jim Dunmyer
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Which lube do you use
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 1:39 PM
?
John,
Because of using the T.M. in the little 1 oz. squeeze bottles, a large bottle lasts me “forever”. I have a pint bottle that I bought a year or 2 ago, and it’s still got some left. One of those squeeze bottles is on/near the mini-lathe, the big lathe, and the mill. Mine came from here:
?
????????????????????????????????????? <>
?
From:
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 1:01 AM
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Which lube do you use
?
?
Hi all,
Like Jim D, I use Tap Magic mostly Diluted 1:5 with Kerosene (it is mentioned on the can that it can be diluted for recirculation systems.) on my mini mill and sometimes for finishing cuts on the lathe. Only time I use it neat is for tapping. Works for me and cuts costs a tad.
John B
|
Chassis mount current sense:
Typ Thru hole:
there's two pages of results..
Andrew wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Another suggestion is to use Nichrome wire and make the resistance whatever you need. Nichrome wire is what is used to make wire wound resistors.
I have some and am willing to mail you a few cm/inches to try.
Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne
On 05/02/13 07:21, alex4459jopiklal44 wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@... <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>, "alex4459jopiklal44" wrote:
I agree , either use a 0.022 or 4 in parallel .
If you look at the schematic, you will see that all curent drawn is going through this resistor, and an opamp are then measuring on the current ..
The only thing that could happen is that the motor draw a bit more before the regulator cutt out.
it would be close to 12 percent more..if they are spot on value..
therefore choose 5% or better ,in tollerance.
to be on the safe side, you could choose a 0.033 .,but if there is
room for 4 , maybe 2watt then I would choose this solution with four 0.1 R
alex
I think ,now after looking at the schematic again, that it is best to get as close as possible to the original value,,that is 4 times 0.1 ohm parallel = 0.025 ohm ,as said from others.
there is a CL adjust in conection to the resistor ,guess this is current limit..it look as it turn the regulation to zero when max current is exceeded.. There are another path through an adjustment marked IR ,witch I think is current- regulation.. it end at the same point where the speed potmeter goes. so it must be a regulation to keep the moment steady ,when motor is loaded..
alex
|
Re: Which lube do you use
As far as cutting oils attacking the cast iron;
Water based oils will,if the concentration is too weak.
I use a mist unit for tool post grinding.
When I am finished grinding on my lathe,I wipe the lathe down with a towel, blow any moisture out from under the carriage,cross slide,etc., and oil it.
Sulpher based oils will sometimes stain the cast iron,but a scotch brite pad,will shine it back up.
|
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, gerry waclawiak wrote:
From: gerry waclawiak
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 10:34 AM
?
Hi Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve the finish.
I always find that net oil applied from a small oil bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot cheaper and will last
forever.Kerosene is also good for ally.
If you only use small quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use ?
Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication ,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work?will be done with aluminum.
?
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Re: Which lube do you use
John,
Because of using the T.M. in the little 1 oz. squeeze bottles, a large
bottle lasts me “forever”. I have a pint bottle that I bought a year or 2 ago,
and it’s still got some left. One of those squeeze bottles is on/near the
mini-lathe, the big lathe, and the mill. Mine came from here:
?
?????????????????????????????????????
<>
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 1:01 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Which lube do you use
?
?
Hi all,
Like Jim D, I use Tap Magic mostly Diluted 1:5 with
Kerosene (it is mentioned on the can that it can be diluted for recirculation
systems.) on my mini mill and sometimes for finishing cuts on the lathe. Only
time I use it neat is for tapping. Works for me and cuts costs a
tad.
John B
|
Another suggestion is to use Nichrome wire and make the resistance
whatever you need. Nichrome wire is what is used to make wire wound
resistors.
I have some and am willing to mail you a few cm/inches to try.
Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne
On 05/02/13 07:21, alex4459jopiklal44
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
"alex4459jopiklal44" wrote:
> I agree , either use a 0.022 or 4 in parallel .
> If you look at the schematic, you will see that all
curent drawn is going through this resistor, and an opamp
are then measuring on the current ..
> The only thing that could happen is that the motor
draw a bit more before the regulator cutt out.
>
> it would be close to 12 percent more..if they are
spot on value.. therefore choose 5% or better ,in
tollerance.
>
> to be on the safe side, you could choose a 0.033
.,but if there is room for 4 , maybe 2watt then I would
choose this solution with four 0.1 R
> alex
>
I think ,now after looking at the schematic again, that it
is best to get as close as possible to the original
value,,that is 4 times 0.1 ohm parallel = 0.025 ohm ,as
said from others.
there is a CL adjust in conection to the resistor ,guess
this is current limit..it look as it turn the regulation
to zero when max current is exceeded.. There are another
path through an adjustment marked IR ,witch I think is
current- regulation.. it end at the same point where the
speed potmeter goes. so it must be a regulation to keep
the moment steady ,when motor is loaded..
alex
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
A constructive criticism:
Bolt holes should be drilled with clearance so 0.06 mm miss alignment will not matter, Bolts should not be used for registration, this should be done with locating dowels
Malcolm.
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
|
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, cnc sales wrote:
From: cnc sales
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 12:23 PM
?
I have some scales like that.
They are, in a word, unacceptable, for me.
Accuracy is +/- 0.02 / 0.03 mm.
This is unacceptable for anything remotely like precision.
Ie two pieces, with a hole in them, made with the readout
indicating the same may be off by 0.06 mm, and will normally be
off by 0.02 at least.
The holes will not be in the same place by so much that a bolt
will not fit through the two.
I am now installing glass scales, that have repeatability well
under 0.004 mm.
I doubt that the make,mark,or type of reader has anything to do
with it, ime.
?
I am strongly considering a Z axis digital linear scale
for my 7 x 16 lathe.
I am thinking I might want to mount it onto the rear side
of the bed below the saddle gibs. The scale would have a
remote reader that I could place anywhere within 48".
Has anyone done this? I like to get as much info and learn
of any experiences others may have had when doing this
mod.
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
I have a mag version of a real DRO on my mill:
And a Shars SPC kit scale on my lathe:
Yea, the DRO Pro kit is great. Fast response, great accuracy, but it's limited to the machine's ability, rigidity, etc...
The scale kit on the lathe, for what I paid and what it is, is a vast improvement over reading dials. Well worth the effort. I wanted to put another DRO Pro kit on the lathe, and still may, but SPC kit has hit within tolerances on all the jobs I do (i use it for product development/R&D).
To test it, I took a piece of 7/8" cold rolled, turned it down to what the scales stated, and sure enough within a mil or so... Using any kind of scale or DRO really just helps to learn the limits of tolerance of what your machine tool is capable of. Honestly, the DRO pro kit on the mill is way overkill for the ability of the machine. The hardware they supply for mounting the reader head is useless on a machine of that size. And for the rigidity of the lathes and mills of this size, holding tolerances becomes more of knowing your machine than how accurate a DRO is.
cnc sales wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have some scales like that.
They are, in a word, unacceptable, for me.
Accuracy is +/- 0.02 / 0.03 mm.
This is unacceptable for anything remotely like precision.
Ie two pieces, with a hole in them, made with the readout indicating the same may be off by 0.06 mm, and will normally be off by 0.02 at least.
The holes will not be in the same place by so much that a bolt will not fit through the two.
I am now installing glass scales, that have repeatability well under 0.004 mm.
I doubt that the make,mark,or type of reader has anything to do with it, ime.
I am strongly considering a Z axis digital linear scale for my 7 x 16 lathe.
I am thinking I might want to mount it onto the rear side of the bed below the saddle gibs. The scale would have a remote reader that I could place anywhere within 48".
Has anyone done this? I like to get as much info and learn of any experiences others may have had when doing this mod.
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
I have some scales like that.
They are, in a word, unacceptable, for me.
Accuracy is +/- 0.02 / 0.03 mm.
This is unacceptable for anything remotely like precision.
Ie two pieces, with a hole in them, made with the readout
indicating the same may be off by 0.06 mm, and will normally be
off by 0.02 at least.
The holes will not be in the same place by so much that a bolt
will not fit through the two.
I am now installing glass scales, that have repeatability well
under 0.004 mm.
I doubt that the make,mark,or type of reader has anything to do
with it, ime.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
I am strongly considering a Z axis digital linear scale
for my 7 x 16 lathe.
I am thinking I might want to mount it onto the rear side
of the bed below the saddle gibs. The scale would have a
remote reader that I could place anywhere within 48".
Has anyone done this? I like to get as much info and learn
of any experiences others may have had when doing this
mod.
Thanks
Dick
|
Different version of the SB manuals Edition 55
campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_1of2.pdf
campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_2of2.pdf
gerry waclawiak wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve the finish.
I always find that net oil applied from a small oil bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot cheaper and will last forever.Kerosene is also good for ally.
If you only use small quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: mike@...
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of michael kolchins
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 3:00 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins <kwoodhands@...>
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a plumber uses for flux. Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication ,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who has retired and no longer sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a rookie machinist. mike
From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co. <mike@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work will be done with aluminum.
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
?
Gerry thanks for
the suggestions. I actually purchased 2 years back and still have a gallon can
of WD-40 in my pole barn but never thought of using it for this purpose
(aluminum turning). I'm still getting my lathe set up but getting closer and
much more anxious to try it out.
?
Cheers,
Mike
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Hi
Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be
fine but anything diluted with water is
to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve
the finish.
I always find that net
oil applied from a small oil
bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have
an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot cheaper and will
last forever.Kerosene is also good for
ally.
If you only use small
quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon,
4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you
use ?
Would
cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original
reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast
iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..."
<7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53
PM
Subject: Re:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron
I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on
brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring
or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real
pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did
not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I
got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid
brushes a plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback
book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication
,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer
sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there
publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will
inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a
rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air
Conditioning Co. To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February
4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube
do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already
been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting
tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being
machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked
in cutting oil? Most of my
work?will be done with aluminum.
?
Also is there any one book that stands
out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might
recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version:
2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date:
02/04/13
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Hi Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve the finish.
I always find that net oil applied from a small oil bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot cheaper and will last forever.Kerosene is also good for ally.
If you only use small quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Would cutting oil
attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original
reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast
iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..."
<7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53
PM
Subject: Re:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I
use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass
or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or
drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real
pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did
not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got
satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a
plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback
book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication
,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer
sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there
publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will
inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a
rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air
Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February
4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already been
asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools
cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being
machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in
cutting oil? Most of my work?will
be done with aluminum.
?
Also is
there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill
practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
gerry waclawiak
maschwiebert