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Thanks for the advice. I have been doing some more research in
finding what I want. I was wondering about the combo mill lathe
machines. Are they adequate to work with or would it be better to buy
a mill and lathe seperate?
Robert

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Robert,
Lets see, a 5 inch chuck, a better tool post. I have those

tiny

tools, the 1/4 inch type, a set of indexable tools and I took large

tools

and ground them to fit. They may help you on some projects. A

follow rest

and a steady rest depending on what you are turning. After all of

that a 4

jaw chuck. Then after all of the expensive stuff, a toothbrush, a 3

or 4

inch paint brush and a shop vac, all for cleaning up chips. On

second

though get those before your lathe arrives.
Practice metals; bronze and aluminum.

Jerry

At 03:59 PM 8/24/2003, you wrote:

I am planning on buying a Speedway lathe. This will be my first

one.

I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers on items

that

I will need to purchase with my lathe to start me off?
Thank You
Robert




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The tailstock horizontal position is supposed to be a user
adjustment. There's no reason to suspect any factory adjustment
survived shipping.
IIRC, mini-lathe.com has a link to Jose Rodriquez's site; he's
written a good TS adjusting procedure.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "csfliers" <hkpsg@a...> wrote:

Hi all, my name is Bill Holland.

<<SNIP>>

Also, I had to adjust my tailstock to get it more or less on

center,

but I dont think I'd trust it for turning between centers. Im

willing

to bet the tail stock is off in 3 different axises.
I have been reading other posts, with people saying their machine

cuts

better than .001, so I figure my problems lay in my technique or
improper lathe setup.

I have read mini-lathe.com and all of its articles short of their

pay

to see ones.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "csfliers" <hkpsg@a...> wrote:

Hi all, my name is Bill Holland.

<Snip>

I keep finding that I need to adjust the gibs quite often,

Someone else reported this, some time ago. He finally found that
the dovetail on the gib side had a very large radius, and the gib had
a sharp corner that didn't fit into the dovetail. He either scraped
the dovetail to a sharper corner, or rounded the corner of the gib to
fit the dovetail (the later is my choice).

... and the
half nut on the cross slide also seams to wear out quickly.

Err, the cross slide doesn't have a half nut. The half nut is
mounted on the apron, and engages the (threading) feed screw. The nut
for the cross slide feed is brass, and is mounted on the bottom of
the cross slide itself. If the cross slide feed nut is getting loose,
maybe you aren't locking it with the setscrew (between the two
adjusting screws).
I have had my Grizley 7x12 for about 3 years, and I haven't worn
out any part of it yet.

... I have
found the machine not able to turn to .001 all the time. I can see
physically where the tool just does not cut certain parts of the
steel at the same depth.

Be sure you have the cutting edge of the tool set at the centerline
of the spindle. Be sure the tool is sharp and is the right tool for
the job.

I use the 99$ Quick change tool post that little machine shop sells,
and some phase 2 indexable carbide tool holders.
Question, do I need to do anything to those carbide inserts like
stone them before use? I just used them as is.

They are supposed to be ready to go, as you receive them. Check
them occasionally to be sure the edge is still sharp and hasn't been
chipped (they chip easilly if you get chatter).

Should I stone the gibbs? or atleast make some brass gibs instead?

See above. Just be sure they fit, for now.

Also, I had to adjust my tailstock to get it more or less on center,

Normal. I don't think they are really "adjusted" at the factory.

I have been reading other posts, with people saying their machine
cuts better than .001, so I figure my problems lay in my technique
or improper lathe setup.

Few of us with much experience claim that we know it all, or that we
don't need more practice. That is just another reason to visit the
shop: "I need to practice some more, Hon!"
And don't forget that some people are not quite completely honest,
especially behind the annonymity of the web. ;-)
Many machines _will_ "cut better than .001", if the operator does
his/her part...

Keep reading and practicing, the machine will learn to work right
eventually!

Hope that helps,
RA

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard" <phrh@w...> wrote:

<Snip>

1. The compound slide (bottom slide)the one which rotates, on my
ch250 is aluminum as is the cross slide ( the part which moves in
and out) on the saddle. The Homier counterparts are both steel.

Not steel, cast iron. Cast iron is Good for this application.

2.The height from the tool holder mounting surface to the spindle
center on the Homier lathe is 3/32" (as measured using a 6 inch
scale) less than the ch250 model. Can't swap tool holders without
readjusting!

How about making a 3/32" shim to put under the low toolholder?

Hope that helps,
RA

I'm also on the 7x10 minilathe group and I think many of those folks would
recommend 1) lap the gibs flat - one guy mentioned sandpaper with finer and
finer grits taped to a sheet of glass 2) consider lapping the mating
surfaces a bit as well and 3) check out the flatness on the bottom of the
bed and look for irregularities. In fact, they had about a zillion messages
on lapping things awhile back. (That group usually generates a zillion
messages on any subject!). Many simply view these lathes as a "kit".

What 1" scale engine are you building? I am also interested in that scale,
have built some freight cars, and have a good friend who makes nice freight
car kits from time to time.

Chuck K.

Robert,
Lets see, a 5 inch chuck, a better tool post. I have those tiny
tools, the 1/4 inch type, a set of indexable tools and I took large tools
and ground them to fit. They may help you on some projects. A follow rest
and a steady rest depending on what you are turning. After all of that a 4
jaw chuck. Then after all of the expensive stuff, a toothbrush, a 3 or 4
inch paint brush and a shop vac, all for cleaning up chips. On second
though get those before your lathe arrives.
Practice metals; bronze and aluminum.

Jerry

Has anyone ever converted the gears.exe program to a Macintosh
program? I'd sure like to have this handy program running at my home
computer.

Larry
New Orleans

I am planning on buying a Speedway lathe. This will be my first one.
I was wondering if someone could give me some pointers on items that
I will need to purchase with my lathe to start me off?
Thank You
Robert

I have been using a nice green painted Asian CH-250A 1995 model 7x10
minilathe made in Taiwan for 4 years or so. No controller problems at
all so far. The controller uses SCR's (5 of them!) and the low speed
cannot be adjusted with the internal pots to less than 150 RPM and
remain constant under load. I took care of that with a 2.5 times
speed reduction between the motor and the lathe. It makes threading a
bit safer!

Some nice folks recently presented me with a neat blue Homier 7x12
which has a controller with a low speed of 0 RPM. I like that much
better. It uses the famous mosfets (we shall see). There are some
other differences though which are not obvious at first glance:

1. The compound slide (bottom slide)the one which rotates, on my
ch250 is aluminum as is the cross slide ( the part which moves in and
out) on the saddle. The Homier counterparts are both steel.

2.The height from the tool holder mounting surface to the spindle
center on the Homier lathe is 3/32" (as measured using a 6 inch steel
scale) less than the ch250 model. Can't swap tool holders without
readjusting!. The tool holder I use (Carlton) is similar to the Mert
one except for the supporting post and will not fit the Homier at
all. I made a center support to fit and can use the movable tool
holders on both designs now,( still a pia).

None of the above is critical but there may be more! Richard

Hi all, my name is Bill Holland.

I am new to machining, and I bought the 7x14 lathe not too long ago.
I have since been making parts on it, and have started a 1" scale live
steam locomotive on it. I have been making axles out of .5" crs rods.

I keep finding that I need to adjust the gibs quite often, and the
half nut on the cross slide also seams to wear out quickly. I have
found the machine not able to turn to .001 all the time. I can see
physically where the tool just does not cut certain parts of the steel
at the same depth.

I use the 99$ Quick change tool post that little machine shop sells,
and some phase 2 indexable carbide tool holders.

Question, do I need to do anything to those carbide inserts like stone
them before use? I just used them as is.

Should I stone the gibbs? or atleast make some brass gibs instead?
Also, I had to adjust my tailstock to get it more or less on center,
but I dont think I'd trust it for turning between centers. Im willing
to bet the tail stock is off in 3 different axises.
I have been reading other posts, with people saying their machine cuts
better than .001, so I figure my problems lay in my technique or
improper lathe setup.

I have read mini-lathe.com and all of its articles short of their pay
to see ones.

Clay,

Here's a late reply, but may be useful.

See message 10157 in yahoo group "9x20lathe" on a way to make a disk,
fully finished on all sides/edges. If you're not a member, email me
and I can send it.

Craig


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1" <ccarlile1@y...>
wrote:

I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw chuck

so

that it doesn't wobble. If one side is finished, I can use an
indicator but this is very tedious. An even bigger problem occurs
when I want to finish the second side parallel to the first. Can
anyone give a beginner some help or point me in the right direction?

Thanks, Clay

Rich, Frank, Roy, et al;

All points presented are excellent. Another thing I like about
the rigid mounting is improved stability during various operations,
expecially using the tailstock. The little lathe is not completely
stable on its rubber feet and the narrow footprint. Another method of
improving stability is to mount the feet on transverse plates to
reduce rocking. It is of course useable without mods, and comes down
to how much effort one wishes to expend on improvement.

My previous post on this thread mentioned Sparey's book and the
front/rear - left/right ordering briefly.

Keeping up with posts in the various groups is indeed difficult.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

Thanks for the pointer, I'll go search over there (or just take your

word for the consensus :-). I have stopped email from that group, I
just could not keep up, unfortunately I'm also losing the good info
that's woven in all the chatter.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/20/2003 at 5:04 AM roylowenthal wrote:

It takes a machinist's precision level, good for showing less than
0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive. On the 7x10
group, there was a lengthy thread about leveling/rigid mounting
within the last couple/3 months. The consensus was that rigid
mounting is not a good idea and everybody was tired of talking

about

it :-)

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================

Thanks to all for the many suggestions.
Clay

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1" <ccarlile1@y...>
wrote:

I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw

chuck

If the disk has any holes in it, you can use them to mount it to a
faceplate. If there is one central hole (like a washer), you can

use

a drawbar (long bolt) to hold it to the spindle nose - use some

paper

(typing or similar) to increase friction between the work and the
spindle nose.

If you must use the 3-jaw, use parallels between the workpiece and
the front of the chuck. You may need to add shims if the front of
the chuck is not true. Be certain to remove the parallels before

you

apply power to the lathe - they WILL come flying out if they

possibly

can.

If the answers you have so far don't seem to solve to problem, ask
again with a little more detail about the workpiece.

RA

Thanks for the pointer, I'll go search over there (or just take your word for the consensus :-). I have stopped email from that group, I just could not keep up, unfortunately I'm also losing the good info that's woven in all the chatter.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/20/2003 at 5:04 AM roylowenthal wrote:

It takes a machinist's precision level, good for showing less than
0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive. On the 7x10
group, there was a lengthy thread about leveling/rigid mounting
within the last couple/3 months. The consensus was that rigid
mounting is not a good idea and everybody was tired of talking about
it :-)

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

Leveling is an important factor for large industrial
lathes, but I don't think it is at all critical for
very small lathes. I have never made any attempt to
level mine and it works just fine.

What is more important, in my view, is not to impart
uneven stress to the bed when bolting the lathe to the
bench. One way to minimize this is to keep the rubber
feet in place and let them absorb the stress, rather
than the bed.

Frank Hoose


--- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

It takes a machinist's precision level, good for
showing less than
0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive.
On the 7x10
group, there was a lengthy thread about
leveling/rigid mounting
within the last couple/3 months. The consensus was
that rigid
mounting is not a good idea and everybody was tired
of talking about
it :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard
Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

How would you level the bed? Winding sticks is

something used in
the woodworking world.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/19/2003 at 1:37 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

Bottom line, I would leave it on the rubber feet

unless prepared
to go

through all the troubles of truly leveling the

bed.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...

========================================

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It takes a machinist's precision level, good for showing less than
0.001" off. Winding sticks are not that sensitive. On the 7x10
group, there was a lengthy thread about leveling/rigid mounting
within the last couple/3 months. The consensus was that rigid
mounting is not a good idea and everybody was tired of talking about
it :-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

How would you level the bed? Winding sticks is something used in

the woodworking world.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/19/2003 at 1:37 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

Bottom line, I would leave it on the rubber feet unless prepared

to go

through all the troubles of truly leveling the bed.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================

How would you level the bed? Winding sticks is something used in the woodworking world.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/19/2003 at 1:37 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

Bottom line, I would leave it on the rubber feet unless prepared to go
through all the troubles of truly leveling the bed.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

Rich,

Sorry for the late reply, I haven't been online in a few days.

It depends on the absolute flatness of the bench and the original
quality of the lathe feet. The rubber feet are more resilent than the
lathe bed so they take up small amounts of inacurracies. If the lathe
is bolted down without consideration of the posibilities, the bed may
be twisted a slight amount.

This twist can be observed in tailstock misaligned (if the tailstock
is well made, mine wasn't).

Bottom line, I would leave it on the rubber feet unless prepared to go
through all the troubles of truly leveling the bed.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

Oh, so as long as this is going onto a flat bench where the lathe

does not rock on the 4 metal feet, just bolting it down in the 4
corners should be fine

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================

You can simply retap the holes in the mounting feet of
the lathe to 1/4-20. Here are some tips:



Frank Hoose


--- Richard Kleinhenz <woodnpen@...> wrote:

OK, thanks, although I don't know what adjuster nuts
are. I am bolting it to a 1.5" MDF bench top, and
have a 3" riser platform. I thought I'd bolt
through the whole stack. Thread appears to be
M6x1.0, I don't think I can find bolts, I was going
to thread some 1/4" drillrod 1/4-20 under the bench
and M6x1.0 into the lathe. I think I'd better use
5/16 so I have a shoulder at the lathe side.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 8/15/2003 at 5:40 PM Craig C. Hopewell wrote:

I like the concept of having it bolted down to a

very rigid bench with

bolts of sufficent size using adjuster nuts. The

complete process is

described in Sparey's book "The Amateur's Lathe".

It will be more

stable in use and when operating the tumbler

lever's very stiff

spring. Minor imbalances will have less effect.

Chatter frequencies

will change or be of less effect.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...

========================================


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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ccarlile1" <ccarlile1@y...>
wrote:

I have a problem getting a thin disk (1/4") setup in a 3-jaw chuck

If the disk has any holes in it, you can use them to mount it to a
faceplate. If there is one central hole (like a washer), you can use
a drawbar (long bolt) to hold it to the spindle nose - use some paper
(typing or similar) to increase friction between the work and the
spindle nose.

If you must use the 3-jaw, use parallels between the workpiece and
the front of the chuck. You may need to add shims if the front of
the chuck is not true. Be certain to remove the parallels before you
apply power to the lathe - they WILL come flying out if they possibly
can.

If the answers you have so far don't seem to solve to problem, ask
again with a little more detail about the workpiece.

RA