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Date
Re: Hello from Yellowknife

R Thompson
 

Hi Don,

I've gone from I don't have room for a home lathe to being on the
verge of buying a new Sherline. For what I envision doing, and that I
have more confidence in North American and European products, with a
little bit of a preference to employ people closer to home, its a good
fit.

But like you, I'll let my wife know how thrilled I'll be with this
gift from her :-) That and I'll put in some overtime and find something
for her that she wouldn't have purchased for herself, other than lathe
attachments that is. Hmmm, maybe a milling machine.

Now I have to find a source of working material at a reasonable
price.

BTW, I went to Bramalea Secondary School until 1972, were we had
machine shop in grades 9 and 10.

Ron

On Thu, 2012-11-15 at 16:35 +0000, dvgraphicsca wrote:

Ron
I bought the Busy Bee CX704 lathe and the DRO kit here in Toronto on
sale at $958 CDN tax included. I have it home and cleaned up but have
not yet installed the DRO kit. I put a large bow on it to remind my
wife that it is a Christmas present from her and not a crazy impulse
purchase on my part.

It looks like a fairly easy learning curve headed my way as I
transition from my elderly Unimat DB200 that has served for 45 years
or so and will continue to do so in a reduced role.

I have made a spot for it to reside in my little shop but lack the
muscle to get it there on my own so I am keeping an eye out for
neighbours that may be attracted to short lived employment in the
moving business with a tot or two of Scotch.

Don Hamilton


---------------------------------------------------

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson <ve8rt@...> wrote:

Thanks Roy,

I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.

Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.

While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >
Re: New to the list

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks to all for the information and the encouraging words. As a result, I've joined the Gingery list, and looked up some of the info. I'll also check a few of the places out that I haven't been to yet. In the next couple of months I hope to reconfigure my shop space which should make more space available for machines, but I still won't have a lot of space.

I also have air tools and a large compressor ( = noisy); I make a point of not running between 9pm and 9am and otherwise the neighbors don't see to mind, so I'll hope it stays that way.

Mark

On 11/15/12 3:48 PM, michael kolchins wrote:

?
Mark, since you have used machine tools in the past I would suggest a lathe larger than a mini.A 9x20 would be the smallest I would consider in your place.I have a 7x12 Cummings and a 10x22 Grizzly. I started on the mini-lathe and learned a lot. After a couple of years I decided that a larger lathe was needed.I use the 10x22 about 95% of the time.The mini-lathe is used infrequently but comes in handy for some work.When I bought my first lathe I had no experience working metal,I think for me starting with the mini-lathe was a good idea.
Being that you have some experience,even though it was in the "distant past" you could save yourself some money and buy a larger lathe to begin with.Naturally the size work you do will determine what lathe you need.
I've made a few shop tools myself,most before I had a metal lathe.I have made a Panel saw,Wood lathe ( had to buy the spindles though), a beam saw, sash saw and a treadle lathe. I still have the wood lathe and the panel saw.I sold the treadle saw when I got too old to keep the treadle going. The beam saw never worked to my satisfaction so I took ?it apart after ?a few years.The sash saw ran off a 15 hp gas engine.I used this saw to mill logs less than 16" in diameter and under 10'-0" long.A neighbor complained about the noise. Police officer came around one morning and told me to turn the engine off.
I did turn it off.The officer asked me a lot of questions about the saw and then asked me if I would sell it to him.
I wound up selling him the saw ,after I finished sawing my logs.
mike

From: "mark@..."
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] New to the list

?
Hello,

I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog". I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as well.

Mark
Knoxville, TN USA


__._,
Re: New to the list

stan campbell
 

Welcome, Mark!
?I live right down the road, in Sevier county, near Dollywood. Check craigs list and the local gov. auctions. I found a Logan 820 on CL earlier this year 10" x 24" needed lots of work. The stuff is out there. Oak Ridge, I think has stuff occasionally, even though I think I would bring a Geiger counter! There was a bunch of big stuff at the sevier county fairgrounds setting outside, but its gone.? The little stuff is around, you just have to keep looking. I started to build a lathe, got real close to finishing. You can see it on my forum. I was looking on CL for tooling when I found the Logan. Google gov. liquidation. They sell a lot, but in Nashville. Kentucky sells some in Campbell County on Ebay. There is supposed to be what i was told an " old man in knoxville with everything imaginable for sale" but haven't got the info yet. Supposedly another in Newport. I am sure you have been to Harbor freight in north Knoxville. and there is "work shop tools" in sevierville next to the knife works place has tiny lathes and other fair sized metal equipment.? Shopfox stuff. I didn't measure, but they had a metal lathe the looked more like a 4 x 10 I could almost put in a coat pocket! Good Luck neighbor! The stuff is out there, persevere!
?
STAN CAMPBELL
Re: New to the list

 

Mark, since you have used machine tools in the past I would suggest a lathe larger than a mini.A 9x20 would be the smallest I would consider in your place.I have a 7x12 Cummings and a 10x22 Grizzly. I started on the mini-lathe and learned a lot. After a couple of years I decided that a larger lathe was needed.I use the 10x22 about 95% of the time.The mini-lathe is used infrequently but comes in handy for some work.When I bought my first lathe I had no experience working metal,I think for me starting with the mini-lathe was a good idea.
Being that you have some experience,even though it was in the "distant past" you could save yourself some money and buy a larger lathe to begin with.Naturally the size work you do will determine what lathe you need.
I've made a few shop tools myself,most before I had a metal lathe.I have made a Panel saw,Wood lathe ( had to buy the spindles though), a beam saw, sash saw and a treadle lathe. I still have the wood lathe and the panel saw.I sold the treadle saw when I got too old to keep the treadle going. The beam saw never worked to my satisfaction so I took ?it apart after ?a few years.The sash saw ran off a 15 hp gas engine.I used this saw to mill logs less than 16" in diameter and under 10'-0" long.A neighbor complained about the noise. Police officer came around one morning and told me to turn the engine off.
I did turn it off.The officer asked me a lot of questions about the saw and then asked me if I would sell it to him.
I wound up selling him the saw ,after I finished sawing my logs.
mike

From: "mark@..." <mark@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] New to the list

?
Hello,

I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog". I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as well.

Mark
Knoxville, TN USA


Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Just a note: Building codes specify the MINIMUM acceptable practice. ?You can always exceed the specification. ?I've had several discussions with local inspectors over this not being what they expected, vs exceeding the specifications. ?Was really fun when I did the garage in rigid conduit instead of romex.

Gordon

?
Gordon Taylor
Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by incompetence.




On 15Nov2012, at 10:15 , Alan Muller <alan@...> wrote:

?

At 09:47 AM 11/15/2012 -0800, you wrote:

?

On 11/15/2012 8:55 AM, Alan Muller wrote:

Personally, I have only ever used threaded steel pipe for gas.

Whatever you use, make sure the AHJ* approves of it AND you feel it's safe.? Just because it barely meets code doesn't me you HAVE to use it, pick something even better.? The AHJ will often notice and have a higher opinion of you.

It's impossible to over-emphasize this point.? The code is what the inspector says it is.? Many people post opinions on code issues on the Internet assuming that whatever they were told in their jurisdiction is universal.? It isn't.? That said, many jurisdictions have little inspection and enforcement.? Especially in rural areas and on farms, people are effectively on their own.? Two areas of difference I know of:? (1)? Using galvanized pipe and fittings for gas.? It has been found in some cases that the zinc reacts with compounds in the gas.? Some places will not approve galvanized gas pipe, and/or fittings.? Others, I think, will. (2) Using thread sealing tape for gas.? Some tapes have approvals, some don't.? Some jurisdictions allow use of the approved tapes (color coded), some will not.

Gas varies in composition.? There was a situation on the East Coast where a gas utility started using a lot of imported "LNG."? Their system had lots of connections made with compressed rubber donuts ("Dresser couplings")? The different flavor of gas caused the rubber to shrink and there were lots of leaks....and lots of litigation over responsibility.

Many people think that since threaded fittings now mostly come from China or Mexico the quality has changed.? I have encountered malleable fittings with cracks, and with the threads out of line.?

Here (50+ year old house) for a remodel we used black steel pipe** with stainless flex tube ($20 for a short piece of that about 5 years ago!).? Note that the flex tube is rated for exactly ONE use.? If you loosen the fittings, you toss it in the trash and buy a new one.

I know there is more than one brand of this and the fittings aren't identical.? But I thought it was only the sealing elements than can't be reused.?? As noted, the stuff is very expensive.?
There is a failure mode involving pinholes caused by electrical discharges--lightening strikes.? It needs to be bonded and grounded per the instructions.

Industrial practice is to paint pipes different colors.? Gas=Yellow, Sprinkler water=Red, etc.



*AHJ = Authority Having Jurisdiction.? Depending on where you are, that could be the building inspector, fire marshal, your boss, your spouse, etc.

** black steel is used so plumbers don't think it's water pipe and unhook it...like happened to a building a few blocks from here.? Destroyed the building and killed one plumber, seriously injured another.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.?

tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:? jerrydurand


Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

 

At 09:47 AM 11/15/2012 -0800, you wrote:
?

On 11/15/2012 8:55 AM, Alan Muller wrote:

Personally, I have only ever used threaded steel pipe for gas.

Whatever you use, make sure the AHJ* approves of it AND you feel it's safe.? Just because it barely meets code doesn't me you HAVE to use it, pick something even better.? The AHJ will often notice and have a higher opinion of you.

It's impossible to over-emphasize this point.? The code is what the inspector says it is.? Many people post opinions on code issues on the Internet assuming that whatever they were told in their jurisdiction is universal.? It isn't.? That said, many jurisdictions have little inspection and enforcement.? Especially in rural areas and on farms, people are effectively on their own.? Two areas of difference I know of:? (1)? Using galvanized pipe and fittings for gas.? It has been found in some cases that the zinc reacts with compounds in the gas.? Some places will not approve galvanized gas pipe, and/or fittings.? Others, I think, will. (2) Using thread sealing tape for gas.? Some tapes have approvals, some don't.? Some jurisdictions allow use of the approved tapes (color coded), some will not.

Gas varies in composition.? There was a situation on the East Coast where a gas utility started using a lot of imported "LNG."? Their system had lots of connections made with compressed rubber donuts ("Dresser couplings")? The different flavor of gas caused the rubber to shrink and there were lots of leaks....and lots of litigation over responsibility.

Many people think that since threaded fittings now mostly come from China or Mexico the quality has changed.? I have encountered malleable fittings with cracks, and with the threads out of line.?

Here (50+ year old house) for a remodel we used black steel pipe** with stainless flex tube ($20 for a short piece of that about 5 years ago!).? Note that the flex tube is rated for exactly ONE use.? If you loosen the fittings, you toss it in the trash and buy a new one.

I know there is more than one brand of this and the fittings aren't identical.? But I thought it was only the sealing elements than can't be reused.?? As noted, the stuff is very expensive.?
There is a failure mode involving pinholes caused by electrical discharges--lightening strikes.? It needs to be bonded and grounded per the instructions.

Industrial practice is to paint pipes different colors.? Gas=Yellow, Sprinkler water=Red, etc.



*AHJ = Authority Having Jurisdiction.? Depending on where you are, that could be the building inspector, fire marshal, your boss, your spouse, etc.

** black steel is used so plumbers don't think it's water pipe and unhook it...like happened to a building a few blocks from here.? Destroyed the building and killed one plumber, seriously injured another.

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.?

tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:? jerrydurand

Re: Thread Protector

 

Thanks to all for the help in my query.

If anyone is interested here's a link to a pic of one of two similar thread protectors I made for my heavily modified Ruger 10/22. ?

I used a tap rather than lathe cutting the internal threads. ?These were pretty simple, fun projects that got my rifle looking more like I want it to look.

Pete


On Saturday, November 10, 2012, Pete Lilja <plilja@...> wrote:
> I'm planning to make a thread protector for a rifle barrel.? My reference material doesn't list the drill bit size for a 1/2" x 28 TPI thread.? Can anyone help?
>
> Pete
>
Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where

 

We have exactly the same situation here in the UK (except ours are normally yellow) and for the same reasons. Another that you did not mention is that the pipe is a great deal more robust requiring no corrosion protection or maintenance and is a great deal more resilient against ground movement.
Whilst we do not have a problem with earthquakes as you have in parts of the US we have considerable numbers of towns cities and built up areas fiddled with deep mine workings that collapse regularly.

Water mains pipes and sewers are also regularly laid or replaced in plastics.

Gerry W
Leeds UK

To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: stan2778@...
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2012 03:53:50 -0800
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and
camera cable releases where



A lot of gas mains are plastic now. Usually orange, comes on a roll.
They melt it together to couple it. Never looked like a good idea to
me. When they bore under roads and such it is cheaper easier and
faster.


STAN CAMPBELL
Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

Jerry Durand
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

On 11/15/2012 8:55 AM, Alan Muller wrote:

Personally, I have only ever used threaded steel pipe for gas.

Whatever you use, make sure the AHJ* approves of it AND you feel it's safe.? Just because it barely meets code doesn't me you HAVE to use it, pick something even better.? The AHJ will often notice and have a higher opinion of you.

Here (50+ year old house) for a remodel we used black steel pipe** with stainless flex tube ($20 for a short piece of that about 5 years ago!).? Note that the flex tube is rated for exactly ONE use.? If you loosen the fittings, you toss it in the trash and buy a new one.


*AHJ = Authority Having Jurisdiction.? Depending on where you are, that could be the building inspector, fire marshal, your boss, your spouse, etc.

** black steel is used so plumbers don't think it's water pipe and unhook it...like happened to a building a few blocks from here.? Destroyed the building and killed one plumber, seriously injured another.
-- 
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand

Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

 

Good question.? Practices vary in different jurisdictions.? In some places copper is used for gas piping.? I some cases it may be, but should not be, soft soldered at the joints.? Or silver soldered, or silver-phos soldered, or brazed, or made up with flare fittings....? Sometimes steel is required for natural gas but copper is allowed for propane.? The corrugated stainless stuff has, I think, brass or bronze connections.? In many places, maybe most places, gas utilities use "copper tube size" polyethylene for house services.? This generally switches over to metal below ground level.? All these systems have their own failure modes.? For instance, if you have a piece of steel pipe hanging horizontally from a threaded fitting it may break off at the threads if the support fails.

Personally, I have only ever used threaded steel pipe for gas.

At 12:15 AM 11/15/2012 -0500, you wrote:

?

If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: < 7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

> Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
> inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
> inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
> how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
> course, modern practice would use a grooved
> system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
> five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
> keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)
>
> At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
> galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
> least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
> threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
> stainless is taking over that
> market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.
>
> So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.
>
> I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
> gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
> are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
> markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
> you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
> chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
> cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
> in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.
>
> Threading is a really lousy way to put up
> something like a flagpole, or to contain high
> pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
> the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
> start.
>
> At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
>>diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.
>>
>>Mert
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From:
>>< mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
>>[ mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
>>Of < mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net >fd042@...
>>Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
>>To: < mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...
>>Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
>>releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>>
>>Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
>>pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
>>cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
>>common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
>>pipe
>>dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
>>threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
>>plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
>>use
>>dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
>>am
>>not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
>>traditional
>>for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
>>not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
>>with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
>>machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
>>will
>>do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
>>pipe
>>threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
>>that
>>these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
>>only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
>>accuracy.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Roy
>> >Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
>> >To:
>> >< mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...
>> >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
>>where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>> >
>> >With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.
>> >
>> >Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
>> >are
>>threaded NPS as are lamp parts.
>> >
>> >Roy
>> >
>> >--- In
>> < mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...,
>> ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.
>> >>
>> >> In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
>>Research ships as an oceanographic
>> >> technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
>> >> of
>>cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).
>> >>
>> >> The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
>>stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
>> >> one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
>>room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
>> >> similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
>>with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
>> >> meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
>>connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
>> >> I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
>>then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
>> >> my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
>>National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
>> >> system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
>>NEF tap did work.
>> >> My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
>>on tight.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
>> >> pipe
>>threads are used but not on pipes.
>> >>
>> >> Larry Murray
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >------------------------------------
>> >
>> >Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>

Re: Hello from Yellowknife

 

Ron
I bought the Busy Bee CX704 lathe and the DRO kit here in Toronto on sale at $958 CDN tax included. I have it home and cleaned up but have not yet installed the DRO kit. I put a large bow on it to remind my wife that it is a Christmas present from her and not a crazy impulse purchase on my part.

It looks like a fairly easy learning curve headed my way as I transition from my elderly Unimat DB200 that has served for 45 years or so and will continue to do so in a reduced role.

I have made a spot for it to reside in my little shop but lack the muscle to get it there on my own so I am keeping an eye out for neighbours that may be attracted to short lived employment in the moving business with a tot or two of Scotch.

Don Hamilton


---------------------------------------------------

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., R Thompson <ve8rt@...> wrote:

Thanks Roy,

I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.

Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.

While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >
Re: New to the list

lists
 

In article <50A45D21.9080200@...>,
mark@... <mark@...> wrote:
For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making
my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc)
Have you read the Gingery books?

There is a group for that too



--
Stuart
Re: New to the list

Nelson T.
 

Mark,
?
Welcome!? I have a long-bed Sherline that I use for antique clock work and I really like it. It is limited to smaller parts. And yes, it isn't cheap, but it is well made (in USA).
When buying, consider the largest work you will want to do, and buy accordingly. A 7x12 might be a good compromise- you can do everything you want with it.
?
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Nelson T.
?

From: "mark@..."
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] New to the list
?
Hello,

I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog". I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as well.

Mark
Knoxville, TN USA

Re: Plans for a steam engine to make on the 7x mini lathe

 

Model Engine Builder Magazine has had many plans.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mce600" <mce600@...> wrote:



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Robert Schulke <robert.schulke53@> wrote:

I'm looking for plans to make a small, useful steam engine on the
mini-lathe. So far all the plans I've seen are either really small
(1/2 inch bore), or require a larger lathe. One that could be put
together from aluminum plate, pipe, bar, etc. would be great.
Castings would be OK so long as they could be finished on the
mini-lathe/mill. It should be able to produce at least 1 HP, and
ideally 5 for powering a small launch.

Thanks in advance!

Have a look here
Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

Nelson T.
 

Mike, I'm in NYC also, and from what I heard, the fire in Breezy Pt?worsened when a propane tank was breeched, perhaps by fire, and exploded, spreading flames everywhere.
The fire trucks were stuck in 3 feet of water.
?
They don't have natural gas lines there, so propane is what they use.
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Nelson T.
?

From: Michael Taglieri
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 12:15 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")
?
If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri mailto:miket_nyc%40verizon.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <mailto:alan%40greendel.org>
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

> Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
> inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
> inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
> how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
> course, modern practice would use a grooved
> system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
> five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
> keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)
>
> At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
> galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
> least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
> threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
> stainless is taking over that
> market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.
>
> So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.
>
> I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
> gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
> are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
> markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
> you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
> chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
> cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
> in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.
>
> Threading is a really lousy way to put up
> something like a flagpole, or to contain high
> pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
> the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
> start.
>
> At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
>>diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.
>>
>>Mert
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From:
>>mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
>>[mailto:mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
>>Of mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net
>>Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
>>To: mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
>>Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
>>releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>>
>>Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
>>pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
>>cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
>>common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
>>pipe
>>dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
>>threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
>>plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
>>use
>>dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
>>am
>>not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
>>traditional
>>for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
>>not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
>>with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
>>machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
>>will
>>do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
>>pipe
>>threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
>>that
>>these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
>>only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
>>accuracy.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Roy
>> >Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
>> >To:
>> >mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com
>> >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
>>where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>> >
>> >With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.
>> >
>> >Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
>> >are
>>threaded NPS as are lamp parts.
>> >
>> >Roy
>> >
>> >--- In
>> mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com,
>> ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.
>> >>
>> >> In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
>>Research ships as an oceanographic
>> >> technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
>> >> of
>>cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).
>> >>
>> >> The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
>>stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
>> >> one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
>>room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
>> >> similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
>>with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
>> >> meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
>>connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
>> >> I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
>>then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
>> >> my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
>>National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
>> >> system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
>>NEF tap did work.
>> >> My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
>>on tight.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
>> >> pipe
>>threads are used but not on pipes.
>> >>
>> >> Larry Murray
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >------------------------------------
>> >
>> >Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>

Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where

stan campbell
 

A lot of gas mains are plastic now. Usually orange, comes on a roll. They melt it together to couple it. Never looked like a good idea to me. When they bore under roads and such it is cheaper easier and faster.

?
STAN CAMPBELL
Re: Plans for a steam engine to make on the 7x mini lathe

 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Robert Schulke <robert.schulke53@...> wrote:

I'm looking for plans to make a small, useful steam engine on the
mini-lathe. So far all the plans I've seen are either really small
(1/2 inch bore), or require a larger lathe. One that could be put
together from aluminum plate, pipe, bar, etc. would be great.
Castings would be OK so long as they could be finished on the
mini-lathe/mill. It should be able to produce at least 1 HP, and
ideally 5 for powering a small launch.

Thanks in advance!

Have a look here
Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

MERTON B BAKER
 

Gas lines today are frequently made of copper pipe. Actually, soft tubing.
In the olden days, the lines were iron pipe with threaded fittings. In
house fires, things collapse, and steel & iron pipe sometimes breaks.
Copper sometimes melts. Pressure tanks can fail when the heat softens the
steel, (Steel loses half it's strength at 500 deg) heat raises the pressure
inside adding to the likelihood of a burst tank. High winds can collapse
buildings, breaking gas pipes. any spark can then set off a fire or an
explosion. Evidently you are situated high enuf to have avoided the
destruction on Staten Island. I hope so, anyway.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Michael Taglieri
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2012 12:16 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera
cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")


If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?


Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
course, modern practice would use a grooved
system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)

At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
stainless is taking over that
market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.

So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.

I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.

Threading is a really lousy way to put up
something like a flagpole, or to contain high
pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
start.

At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:


The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
Of <mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net>fd042@...
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
pipe
dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
use
dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
am
not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
traditional
for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
will
do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
pipe
threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
that
these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
accuracy.

-----Original Message-----
From: Roy
Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
To:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.

Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
are
threaded NPS as are lamp parts.

Roy

--- In
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...,
ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:


Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.

In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
Research ships as an oceanographic
technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
of
cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).

The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
NEF tap did work.
My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
on tight.

Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
pipe
threads are used but not on pipes.

Larry Murray



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?")

Michael Taglieri
 

If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?


Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
course, modern practice would use a grooved
system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)

At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
stainless is taking over that
market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.

So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.

I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.

Threading is a really lousy way to put up
something like a flagpole, or to contain high
pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
start.

At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:


The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
Of <mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net>fd042@...
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
pipe
dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
use
dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
am
not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
traditional
for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
will
do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
pipe
threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
that
these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
accuracy.

-----Original Message-----
From: Roy
Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
To:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.

Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
are
threaded NPS as are lamp parts.

Roy

--- In
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...,
ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:


Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.

In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
Research ships as an oceanographic
technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
of
cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).

The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
NEF tap did work.
My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
on tight.

Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
pipe
threads are used but not on pipes.

Larry Murray



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Plans for a steam engine to make on the 7x mini lathe

Robert Schulke
 

I'm looking for plans to make a small, useful steam engine on the
mini-lathe. So far all the plans I've seen are either really small
(1/2 inch bore), or require a larger lathe. One that could be put
together from aluminum plate, pipe, bar, etc. would be great.
Castings would be OK so long as they could be finished on the
mini-lathe/mill. It should be able to produce at least 1 HP, and
ideally 5 for powering a small launch.

Thanks in advance!
53781 - 53800 of 120327