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Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
Hi Stefan,
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bit of a misunderstanding there! That looks to be exactly the same as the one on my metric lathe. That has the "universal" 0.025mm/0.001" marking as well What dimensions is it you are looking for? Gerry W Leeds UK ________________________________ To: 7x12minilathe@... |
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Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
Boring out doesn't work on all of the 3" chucks it can destroy the drive pinions on some
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Gerry W Leeds UK ________________________________ To: 7x12minilathe@... |
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Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
Hi Bob
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the spindle pass through on the 7x lathes is actually quite generous, many similar size lathes have less or none. It is comparable to that on the larger 9x18 or 2o" bed hobby lathes considered by some as the next step up from the 7x minis. On most of the 3" chucks the pass through of the chuck body is smaller than that available on the spindle and a larger chuck is required to take advantage (although some people have modified the 3" body) Gerry W Leeds UK ________________________________ To: 7x12minilathe@... |
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Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
I did wonder what Stefan meant by this, many folk refer to them as knucklebusters for obvious reasons. A button head screw is a good replacement but I just changed them for relatively easily obtainable normal hex head screws with the heads shaved down in the lathe to 1/16" or so
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Gerry W Leeds UK _______________________________ To: 7x12minilathe@... |
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Re: Drill Rod
Mike,
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Drill is not the same as cold rolled steel. Drill rod is a high carbon steel capable of being hardened by heat treating. It usually is available in three foot lengths and is designated as O-1 (oil hardening), W-1 (water hardening) and also air hardening. Drill rod is centerless ground close to the designated size and is readilly machined using standard high speed tooling.Drill blanks are usually made from High Speed steel, hardened and ground and too hard to machine with standard tooling. Dick --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Exibar" <exibar@...> wrote:
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Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
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I have a RB also and agree with Mert I also think that they are a little better built and they have oil ports on the LS tailstock and saddle and the motor is more powerful than the most basic Sieg The later ones also come with a larger more rigid tailstock with lever lock and the current ones come with a modified spindle fitted with a 4" 3 jaw chuck that has a bigger pass through on the spindle all as standard I believe they are rather more difficult to find in the US compared to the Siegs Gerry W Leeds UK To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mertbaker@... Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 09:44:14 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
The Real Bull 7x has a few more features than the SIEG ones. I have one and find the performance is about the same, but the SIEG lacks the way wipers and the more convenient (for modification) RH end of the LS. The carriage is heavier on the RB, but this makes it a little less convenient if you want to turn a 7" flywheel. Tossup. They're still bargains. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of HOGWINSLOW@... Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2012 8:02 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions Thanks for all the help. I didn't expect to see answers so quickly. You've convinced me to buy the longer model lathe. I think the shorter one will work fine for me now but in the future I'll want more. Now more questions- I've read that all the 7x lathes are the same. Different sellers have different warantys and different extras that come with the lathe. But their all the same machine. Do you agree? Is HF the best deal with 20% off coupon? I've read about out of the box problems and soon after the waranty ends problems. Like the lathe quit and won't run problems. Have you seen this? Is it usally a easy fix or major problem? Maybe 1 out of 100 or 1 out of 100,000? My thought here is that someone that is unhappy is more likely to give a negative review before a happy customer will say something good. I played with a lathe in the HF store and was turned off by the play in the wheels. I'm sure their not called wheels but the cranks maybe. Anyway they seemed to have excesive play. Is that adjustable? I can see that driving me nuts in the future. Can I buy oil-lite material to turn my own bushings from scratch? Do you have a source? It seems that the accuracy would be better than me trying re-work an existing bushing. Thanks again guys. All your answers very informative. Tom --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" wrote: > > The 7x10 will easily handle any of the chores on your list. You will not be > able to take off the full 1/8" in one pass, though. With skill and a sharp > toolbit, you may do it in 2 passes, but 3 is more realistic. This is not a > very big machine. Setting up for threading is a chore, because you have to > manually change the gear wheels for the thread pitch. I don't use any of my > 7xs for threading, because I'm lazy and have a 12x36 with a quick change LS > gearbox on it, & use that one. > > If your work can be done in the limited space between the face of the > chuck and the TS center, (8" on the 7x10), you'll be pleased with this > lathe. However, the 7x"12" has 4" more room, and is thus a great deal more > useful, if you ever have a need to turn longer stuff. Not that much > difference in price. This version is 4" longer than the 7x10 and weighs > abut 20# more. Portability is not a problem if you are fairly husky, > though. > > I bought my 7x10 in the early 80s, and started using it in right-out-of-box > condition, after wiping the preservative off the ways. I shortly found the > gib on the top slide needed adjustment and did this, then the cross slide > one needed the same thing, so I did that too. This sort of stuff will need > to be done on any new machine. Later, I found the detents for the FNR lever > for the LS were slightly mislocated and re-drilled them. I bought the four > 7xs I have years ago, and the most I paid was $400 for that last one, a > 7x12, which came with ALL the factory accessories then offered. The others > were #300, or less. My 7x10 was $275 with free shipping on sale, I think. > I bought it entirely out of curiosity, and got a very pleasant surprise on > first trying it out. Even at today's price, it's a bargain, I believe, but > the 7x"12" is a bigger one. My experience. > > Mert > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 7x12minilathe@... > [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of HOGWINSLOW@... > Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2012 8:55 PM > To: 7x12minilathe@... > Subject: [7x12minilathe] Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions > > > So I've decided on the HF 7" x 10" lathe. For the longest time I was > leaning toward the Tiag Lathe. But my Grandfather left me his tools and > most of them will work better with the HF. The Taig uses 1/4" tooling and > the HF uses 5/16". He left me a bunch of 5/16" tool steel. Also all the > drill chucks and centers he left me are all M-2 so they will fit the M-2 > tailstock. But I have a few questions- > > > > 1. I want to turn a 1" diameter piece of steel to 5/8". Will the HF handle > this? I've read that it slows down when turn steel. Are those people just > tring to cut to much at once? > > 2. Once at 5/8" I need to thread it. Is the threading feature easy to use > on the HF lathe? > > 3. I need to re-work some oil-lite bushings. The outer diameter of the > bushings I buy is correct. But the inside needs to be bored from 1/2" to > 5/8". Will the HF handle this within the accuracy needed for bushings? > Would I be better of using a small boring bar or a 5/8" reamer (I happen to > have one). The flange on the bushings also needs to be thinned but I'm sure > that's easy enough. > > 4. I sometimes need to to take two slices from opposites sides of a round > bar to be able to put a wrench on them. I've read that it's possible to > chuck a end mill in the lathe and do slight milling. Do you feel this would > be an option or is it wish full thinking? > > 5. I see a Prep Guide in the link section. Is this what's used to make all > the initial adjustments when I first use it. From what I read I'll need to > do a lot of tweeking to get it right. > > > > Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance, > > Tom > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
gerry waclawiak
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