1. Yes, no problem if you listen to the machine to figure out a reasonable depth of cut.
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2. No different than on any other engine lathe; the change gears for threading have to be installed manually - higher end lathes have quick change gear boxes that don't require as much fiddling to change gears. 3. You'll want something other than the stock 3 jaw chuck to hold the bushings. The stock chuck doesn't usually hold things concentric; it's more a function of the chuck body not being too accurate than an inherent problem with self centering chucks. The easy fix is to machine a split sleeve that grips the OD of the bushings. As long as the sleeve is in the same position relative to the chuck as when it was bored to fit the bushings they'll be concentric. Reamers aren't happy opening a diameter by 1/8"; you'll need to drill to about 39/64" before reaming. You'll have to experiment, you may need to go 1/32" under on the drill size. You do realize that a nominal 5/8" rod isn't going to make a usable fit in a nominal 5/8" hole - somewhere, one of the dimensions needs to be a few thousandths different to make a running fit. 4. It's possible to do some light milling with a lathe; it's also possible to gargle peanut butter;-) If there's any other approach, it'll be more pleasant. Look at other vendors - most of them offer a 7x12, which is actually a 7x14 when it's measured from the face of the HS. That extra 4" makes a big difference when using real world drill bits held in the TS. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., HOGWINSLOW@... wrote:
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