Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
It'd be a real PITA to do; the HS angular position is controlled by it having a V groove that mates with the raised V on the bed.
Roy
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote:
I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree?as can be done on older lathes?
My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads.
It might be an awful pain to line? it up again!
?
Just a thought
?
John Kiely
________________________________
From: Roy <roylowenthal@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" <phbrush@> wrote:
I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks !
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
? ?
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You can use the compound to cut the taper with no problem; what you can't do is cut threads on a taper without a taper attachment.
Roy
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Bailey <cbailey73160@...> wrote:
You can also use a protractor to adjust the compound to get VERY close.
This one is CHEAP but surprisingly accurate.
Chris
On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 8:59 PM, Roy <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
**
You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread.
Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper
attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a
tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling
with thread files.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" <phbrush@> wrote:
I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a
mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse
taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe
threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines
that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the
quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be
desired by machinists standards. Thanks !
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
A second option is to insert a mill boring head sideways in the tail stock. You can use the screw adjuster to accurately set the taper. You will need a 60 degree center on a piece of stock
Later.... Randy S
Practice random kindness and commit senseless acts of beauty.
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On 11/9/2012 3:32 PM, michael kolchins wrote:
John,did you mean to say offsetting the tailstock? Offsetting the
headstock would be more trouble than it's worth. You did give me an idea
though,how about putting a 60¡ã point on a short round ,off set it in the
4 jaw .Then turn between centers using a dog like on a face plate.The
tail stock stays centered. I use an off set adjustable point similar to
a boring head. Mine has a #3 MT so it works in my lathe or mill.I also
have a larger lathe with a #3 MT in the tail stock You would need to
adapt the #3 MT to #2 MT for the mini-lathe.
mike
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You can buy a tool called a "nipple chuck" for this very
purpose.
Alan
At 10:08 PM 11/9/2012 +0000, you wrote:
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?
I need to be able to create/re-thread close pipe nipples and initially
figured to use the lathe to do it. However, I ended up taking the 'easy'
way out - I fabricated an expandable mandrel out of 1" bar stock and
used it to extend the capability of my normal pipe threader.
Just didn't want to leave any stone un-turned !
--- In
7x12minilathe@..., John Kiely
wrote:
>
> No I actually meant the headstock, I have a couple of "antique
lathes" and giving the headstock a little bit of yaw is much easier
on them than on the Mini!
> Doing the same on the mini, well you will notice , I didn't
recommend it!?
>?
> John
>
>
>
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
I need to be able to create/re-thread close pipe nipples and initially figured to use the lathe to do it. However, I ended up taking the 'easy' way out - I fabricated an expandable mandrel out of 1" bar stock and used it to extend the capability of my normal pipe threader.
Just didn't want to leave any stone un-turned !
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote:
No I actually meant the headstock, I have a couple of "antique lathes" and giving the headstock a little bit of yaw is much easier on them than on the Mini!
Doing the same on the mini, well you will notice , I didn't recommend it!?
?
John
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
No I actually meant the headstock, I have a couple of "antique lathes" and giving the headstock a little bit of yaw is much easier on them than on the Mini!
Doing the same on the mini, well you will notice , I didn't recommend it!? 
?
John
From: michael kolchins To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 8:32 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
John,did you mean to say offsetting the tailstock? Offsetting the headstock would be more trouble than it's worth. You did give me an idea though,how about putting a 60¡ã point on a short round ,off set it in the 4 jaw .Then turn between centers using a dog like on a face plate.The tail stock stays centered. I use an off set adjustable point similar to a ?boring head. Mine has a #3 MT so it works in my lathe or mill.I also have a larger lathe with a #3 MT in the tail stock You would need to adapt the #3 MT to #2 MT for the mini-lathe.
mike
From: John Kiely
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
?
I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree?as can be done on older lathes?
My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads.
It might be an awful pain to line? it up again!
?
Just a thought
?
John Kiely
From: Roy
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" wrote: > > I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks ! > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: ? ? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x12minilathe/ <*> Your email settings: ? ? Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online
go to: ? ? ? ? (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: ? ? 7x12minilathe-digest@... ? ? 7x12minilathe-fullfeatured@...<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: ? ? 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...<*> Your use of Yahoo!
Groups is subject to: ? ? http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
John,did you mean to say offsetting the tailstock? Offsetting the headstock would be more trouble than it's worth. You did give me an idea though,how about putting a 60¡ã point on a short round ,off set it in the 4 jaw .Then turn between centers using a dog like on a face plate.The tail stock stays centered. I use an off set adjustable point similar to a ?boring head. Mine has a #3 MT so it works in my lathe or mill.I also have a larger lathe with a #3 MT in the tail stock You would need to adapt the #3 MT to #2 MT for the mini-lathe. mike
From: John Kiely
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 6:46 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
?
I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree?as can be done on older lathes?
My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads.
It might be an awful pain to line? it up again!
?
Just a thought
?
John Kiely
From: Roy
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with
a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" wrote: > > I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks ! > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: ? ?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x12minilathe/ <*> Your
email settings: ? ? Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: ? ? ? ? (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: ? ? 7x12minilathe-digest@... ? ? 7x12minilathe-fullfeatured@...<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: ? ? 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...<*> Your use
of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: ? ? http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
John,
That might work for very short sections of pipe, as they'd need to be between centers.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Kiely <john_kiely@...> wrote:
I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree?as can be done on older lathes?
My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads.
It might be an awful pain to line? it up again!
?
Just a thought
?
John Kiely
________________________________
From: Roy <roylowenthal@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" <phbrush@> wrote:
I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks !
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
? ?
|
Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
Tom,
The power and righty required for a given depth of cut and feed rate are dependent more on tool geometry than anything else. With the proper tool geometry you will be able to take a much heavier cut than might be able to imagine. Thie tool geometry factor is the most important issue to consider when using a light duty lathe such as the 7 X 10 machine. I mention this only to present this fact as food for thought. I have experienced cutting situations that had me baffled until I experimented with various tool geometry.
Dick
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., HOGWINSLOW@ wrote:
So I've decided on the HF 7" x 10" lathe. For the longest time I was leaning toward the Tiag Lathe. But my Grandfather left me his tools and most of them will work better with the HF. The Taig uses 1/4" tooling and the HF uses 5/16". He left me a bunch of 5/16" tool steel. Also all the drill chucks and centers he left me are all M-2 so they will fit the M-2 tailstock. But I have a few questions-
1. I want to turn a 1" diameter piece of steel to 5/8". Will the HF handle this? I've read that it slows down when turn steel. Are those people just tring to cut to much at once?
2. Once at 5/8" I need to thread it. Is the threading feature easy to use on the HF lathe?
3. I need to re-work some oil-lite bushings. The outer diameter of the bushings I buy is correct. But the inside needs to be bored from 1/2" to 5/8". Will the HF handle this within the accuracy needed for bushings? Would I be better of using a small boring bar or a 5/8" reamer (I happen to have one). The flange on the bushings also needs to be thinned but I'm sure that's easy enough.
4. I sometimes need to to take two slices from opposites sides of a round bar to be able to put a wrench on them. I've read that it's possible to chuck a end mill in the lathe and do slight milling. Do you feel this would be an option or is it wish full thinking?
5. I see a Prep Guide in the link section. Is this what's used to make all the initial adjustments when I first use it. From what I read I'll need to do a lot of tweeking to get it right.
Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance,
Tom
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
In one of my lathe books there is a profile for a usable approximation of
tapered pipe thread intended for single point cutting.
Bear in mind that normal pipe thread has a helical leakage path and isn't
expected to seal without pipe dope.? There is a variant called
"dryseal" that is supposed to.? "Metric" pipe
thread is based on British Standard pipe threads and is similar but not
the same.?
I've noticed that European boilers and suchlike often seem to come with
straight threads intended to be sealed with threadlike stuff and jamb
nuts.
Alan
At 07:16 AM 11/9/2012 -0500, you wrote:
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?
My thought on this, is "Who needs a tapered thread?" My answer
is
"Pipefitters". When I was a pipefitter, I had a nice tripod
vise and a set
of pipe dies. I still have 'em, but haven't used 'em for 50 years.
Plumbing has advanced.
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From:
7x12minilathe@...
[
mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of john baird
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2012 7:02 AM
To:
7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe
?
A pipe threading machine cuts rough taper threads, because that is all
that
is required to join pipes to fittings,it cuts fast and in one
pass.
A machine taper thread is a totally different animal.
To cut pipe threads in a lathe is not practical.
1- the pass through of the spindle bore
2- supporting and stabilising the free end of the pipe
Regards jb
--- On Thu, 8/11/12, andyf1108
<
andyf.1108@...> wrote:
> --- In
7x12minilathe@...,
> "olduhfguy" wrote:
> >
> > I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning
> attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using
> it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only
> acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that
> is the case I would be better off to stick with machines
> that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would
> ask since the quality that comes out of most threading
> machines leaves something to be desired by machinists
> standards. Thanks !
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>????
7x12minilathe-fullfeatured@...
>
>
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
My thought on this, is "Who needs a tapered thread?" My answer is
"Pipefitters". When I was a pipefitter, I had a nice tripod vise and a set
of pipe dies. I still have 'em, but haven't used 'em for 50 years.
Plumbing has advanced.
Mert
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of john baird Sent: Friday, November 09, 2012 7:02 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ? A pipe threading machine cuts rough taper threads, because that is all that is required to join pipes to fittings,it cuts fast and in one pass. A machine taper thread is a totally different animal. To cut pipe threads in a lathe is not practical. 1- the pass through of the spindle bore 2- supporting and stabilising the free end of the pipe Regards jb --- On Thu, 8/11/12, andyf1108 <andyf.1108@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@...,
"olduhfguy" <phbrush@...> wrote:
I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning
attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using
it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only
acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that
is the case I would be better off to stick with machines
that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would
ask since the quality that comes out of most threading
machines leaves something to be desired by machinists
standards. Thanks !
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
??? ??? 7x12minilathe-fullfeatured@...
------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
That is how it's done on the Unimat DB/SL, and the Sherline. Both types
have a pin to realign the HS. On the 7xs, the top slide can be used to cut
short tapers, and even long ones, If necessary.
Mert
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-----Original Message----- From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of John Kiely Sent: Friday, November 09, 2012 6:46 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ? I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree as can be done on older lathes? My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads. It might be an awful pain to line it up again! Just a thought John Kiely From: Roy <roylowenthal@...> To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ? You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" <phbrush@...> wrote: > > I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks ! > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
A pipe threading machine cuts rough taper threads, because that is all that is required to join pipes to fittings,it cuts fast and in one pass.
A machine taper thread is a totally different animal.
To cut pipe threads in a lathe is not practical.
1- the pass through of the spindle bore
2- supporting and stabilising the free end of the pipe
Regards jb
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- On Thu, 8/11/12, andyf1108 <andyf.1108@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@...,
"olduhfguy" <phbrush@...> wrote:
I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning
attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using
it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only
acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that
is the case I would be better off to stick with machines
that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would
ask since the quality that comes out of most threading
machines leaves something to be desired by machinists
standards. Thanks !
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
? ? 7x12minilathe-fullfeatured@...
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree?as can be done on older lathes?
My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads.
It might be an awful pain to line? it up again!
?
Just a thought
?
John Kiely
From: Roy To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ? You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with
a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" wrote: > > I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks ! > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: ? ? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x12minilathe/ <*> Your
email settings: ? ? Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: ? ? ? ? (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: ? ? 7x12minilathe-digest@... ? ? 7x12minilathe-fullfeatured@...<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: ? ? 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...<*> Your use
of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: ? ? http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
One of the advantages of the button head screws is that you can use a ball
end Allen wrench in an electric screwdriver to provide power feeds for the
top & cross slides. If you use your top slide to make #2 & #4 Morse taper
arbors much, it's a big convenience. I've drilled thru the protractor into
the cross slide for a locating pin to make things easier. Even made a #3
to#2 adapter for the HS.
Mert
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Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Stefan Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2012 5:07 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric) sorry friends, I was talking about this part tegory=5 --- In 7x12minilathe@..., gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@...> wrote:
I did wonder what Stefan meant by this, many folk refer to them as
knucklebusters for obvious reasons. A button head screw is a good replacement but I just changed them for relatively easily obtainable normal hex head screws with the heads shaved down in the lathe to 1/16" or so
Gerry W
Leeds UK
_______________________________
???> To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: andyf.1108@...
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 18:16:39 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
Hi Stefan,
This is the original part:
<
ry= >.
As you can see, it is a standard M5 socket capscrew, with a threaded
section 8mm long. The modification is simply to replace it with a a
similar screw, but with a domed or "button" head, so your fingers don't
catch on it when using the cross slide.
Andy
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Stefan" <stkovac@> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> do any of you have drawing of this part, with metric dimensions of
it? If you can please send it to me via email.
> ATB
>
------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You can certainly cut a taper that way, Chris, but the problem is how to cut a thread along that taper; that's when you need either CNC or a taper turning attachment to do a good job. Assuming the thread starts at the thin end, something is needed to pull the cross slide steadily out during each cut, so the tool follows a line parallel to the side of the taper.
Andy
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Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Bailey <cbailey73160@...> wrote:
You can also use a protractor to adjust the compound to get VERY close.
This one is CHEAP but surprisingly accurate.
Chris
On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 8:59 PM, Roy <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
**
You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread.
Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper
attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a
tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling
with thread files.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" <phbrush@> wrote:
I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a
mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse
taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe
threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines
that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the
quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be
desired by machinists standards. Thanks !
|
Re: Online metal supplier
Hi Mark,
Discount Steel has a location just northwest of Fort Worth, Texas, where I have done business with them on several occasions by calling in orders and picking them up. They seem to be good people and have always provided me with good service and reasonable prices. I have not done any mail order business with them though.
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Has anyone in the group bought stuff from ? ?I was pricing some 6061 aluminum bar and they had the best price I've seen -- less than half the price of the competition. ?CRS bar pricing looked pretty good as well. ?They do have a cutting fee but even so they're way below most everyone else I've found. ?Just wondering if it's too good to be true....
Thanks,
Mark
------------------------------------
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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<*> Your email settings:
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<*> To change settings online go to:
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???(Yahoo! ID required)
<*> To change settings via email:
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<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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Re: Online metal supplier
Take a look at their shipping charges for small quantities. Can easily double the cost.
Gordon
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?
Has anyone in the group bought stuff from ? I was pricing some 6061 aluminum bar and they had the best price I've seen -- less than half the price of the competition. CRS bar pricing looked pretty good as well. They do have a cutting fee but even so they're way below most everyone else I've found. Just wondering if it's too good to be true....
Thanks,
Mark
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Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
thanks gerry, andy and ajawa, thats the part I was looking for, and it has all of the dimensions!
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., WAM <ajawam2@...> wrote:
See if these look like what you have:
DWG - ACAD2000:
You can get the 3D models from
gerry waclawiak wrote:
Hi Stefan,
bit of a misunderstanding there!
That looks to be exactly the same as the one on my metric lathe. That has the "universal" 0.025mm/0.001" marking as well
What dimensions is it you are looking for?
Gerry W
Leeds UK
________________________________
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: stkovac@...
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 22:07:02 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
sorry friends,
I was talking about this part
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@> wrote:
I did wonder what Stefan meant by this, many folk refer to them as
knucklebusters for obvious reasons. A button head screw is a good
replacement but I just changed them for relatively easily obtainable
normal hex head screws with the heads shaved down in the lathe to 1/16"
or so
Gerry W
Leeds UK
_______________________________
> To:
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>
From: andyf.1108@
Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 18:16:39 +0000
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
Hi Stefan,
This is the original part:
<
. As you can see, it is a standard M5 socket capscrew, with a threaded
section 8mm long. The modification is simply to replace it with a a
similar screw, but with a domed or "button" head, so your fingers don't
catch on it when using the cross slide.
Andy
--- In
7x12minilathe@...<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Stefan" <stkovac@> wrote:
Hello,
do any of you have drawing of this part, with metric dimensions of
it? If you can please send it to me via email.
ATB
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Yahoo! Groups Links
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Has anyone in the group bought stuff from www.discountsteel.com? I was pricing some 6061 aluminum bar and they had the best price I've seen -- less than half the price of the competition. CRS bar pricing looked pretty good as well. They do have a cutting fee but even so they're way below most everyone else I've found. Just wondering if it's too good to be true....
Thanks,
Mark
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