John,did you mean to say offsetting the tailstock? Offsetting the headstock would be more trouble than it's worth. You did give me an idea though,how about putting a 60¡ã point on a short round ,off set it in the 4 jaw .Then turn between centers using a dog like on a face plate.The tail stock stays centered. I use an off set adjustable point similar to a ?boring head. Mine has a #3 MT so it works in my lathe or mill.I also have a larger lathe with a #3 MT in the tail stock You would need to adapt the #3 MT to #2 MT for the mini-lathe.
From: John Kiely To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 6:46 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
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I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree?as can be done on older lathes?
My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads.
It might be an awful pain to line? it up again!
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Just a thought
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John Kiely
From: Roy To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with
a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" wrote: > > I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks ! >
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