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Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?

 

In a matter like this, it is not really relevant what the shipper (Grizzly) wants to do.? This is an insurance matter, and the insurance is through the shipping company.? If there was no explicit insurance on the package, then the shipping? company itself if liable.? Do not delay filing a claim with the shipping company, lest you regret it.? It's good that the driver noted the damage, but that alone may not suffice to start the claims process.

On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 8:42 PM, nissan.370z <ebandit@...> wrote:
?

Grizzly wants me to check for other damage and claims it should be ok as far as still being true. they want to send parts to fix the damaged stuff, but I was thinking either a discount if the rest is ok or just a new machine that has not been dropped at all.

Thanks. I haven't spoke with the shipper yet other than the delivery guy driving the truck, he marked the damage on the sheet while I said what I could see on first inspection. I then emailed pictures to Grizzly within 5 minutes of delivery.



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bruce Freeman wrote:
>
> Contact the shipping company at once and make a claim against their
> insurance. Sounds like the whole machine should be replaced for you. If
> you delay or throw away packaging material, your claim will be very weak.
>
> On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:51 PM, nissan.370z wrote:
>
> > **

> >
> >
> > I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was
> > dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few
> > gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end
> > but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a
> > good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two
> > also.
> >
> > What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of
> > true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a
> > damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a
> > discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before
> > from any company.
> >
> > Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in
> > the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other
> > details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the
> > shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce
> NJ
>




--
Bruce
NJ
Re: Damaged compound

 

Check with automotive machine shops or motorcycle repair places. Some auto parts stores sell Helicoil kits in common sizes.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew <akayton1@...> wrote:

I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:

If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.

Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.

On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:
G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine.
I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing
would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of
the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I
knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also
plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is
worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
Re: Threading question

 

There are a gaggle of odd ball threads it might be, it's close to an M4 x 0.75 (M 0.75 corresponds to 33 3/4 tpi) which isn't a common thread either!



Here's the chart I find useful:



Which is contained in a really neat collection of tech references:



Lacking a die, a thread restoring file is nice for final clean up of single point cut threads.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:

I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to clean up the threads.

Norm
Re: Carbide wheel

 

Brazing is how the carbide is attached to the steel shank, the carbide itself is sintered.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ray Kornele <krazykyngekorny@...> wrote:

Most carbide tools are high-temp BRAZED! I, too worked in a machine shop,
and ordered many of the tools, including M-5 for some special jobs that
could not be cooled with coolant.

I, also, ordered, and, installed a vortex cooler. Keeps things cool by
producing super cold air.

KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)


On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:41 AM, Leo Cormier <leocor@...> wrote:

**


"The green wheels don't actually grind the carbide, they pull little
pieces of carbide away & grind the binder."

What binder? Carbide is a sintered material, which means that tiny pieces
of carbide (almost powder) are compressed under great force and heated until
it binds together as one piece.
Re: Carbide wheel

 

Not exactly:



My point was that green wheels don't give as fine a finish as diamond wheels because the green wheels don't grind the actual carbide particles. Then again, it's been a long time since I used a green wheel! With newer carbide being finer grained, it may not make as much difference as it used to.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Leo Cormier <leocor@...> wrote:


"The green wheels don't actually grind the carbide, they pull little pieces of carbide away & grind the binder."

What binder? Carbide is a sintered material, which means that tiny pieces of carbide (almost powder) are compressed under great force and heated until it binds together as one piece.

As far as "pull little pieces of carbide away" goes, that is exactly what grinding is.

I spent 12 years in vary large machine shops (in shipyards) and we always used the green wheel to rough the brazed carbide tools and the wet diamond wheel to put a polish on just the carbide part of the tool. In a pinch, you can get by without the diamond.

Leo
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?

nissan.370z
 

Grizzly wants me to check for other damage and claims it should be ok as far as still being true. they want to send parts to fix the damaged stuff, but I was thinking either a discount if the rest is ok or just a new machine that has not been dropped at all.

Thanks. I haven't spoke with the shipper yet other than the delivery guy driving the truck, he marked the damage on the sheet while I said what I could see on first inspection. I then emailed pictures to Grizzly within 5 minutes of delivery.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bruce Freeman <freemab222@...> wrote:

Contact the shipping company at once and make a claim against their
insurance. Sounds like the whole machine should be replaced for you. If
you delay or throw away packaging material, your claim will be very weak.

On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:51 PM, nissan.370z <ebandit@...> wrote:

**


I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was
dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few
gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end
but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a
good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two
also.

What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of
true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a
damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a
discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before
from any company.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in
the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other
details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the
shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.




--
Bruce
NJ
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?

 

Contact the shipping company at once and make a claim against their insurance.? Sounds like the whole machine should be replaced for you.? If you delay or throw away packaging material, your claim will be very weak.

On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:51 PM, nissan.370z <ebandit@...> wrote:

?

I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two also.

What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before from any company.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.




--
Bruce
NJ
Re: Carbide wheel

 

Hilsch was the original inventor of the vortex tube cooling system.?
See ?






Mildly so. Not deafening, by a long shot. Just a moderate sound of air escaping. What surprised me was, in 1980 something, it only cost about $200. But, we had to install a refrigerated air dryer to supply air. Withouit the drier, the cooler kept shooting ice bullets, from frozen condensate from the air.

We had some machining to do that had to be cooled, but, couldn't take liquid coolant.

I don't think it was a hilsch. I assume that is a brand name??

KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)




On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 9:42 AM, John Brookes?<haiticare2011@...>?wrote:
?

hilsch vortex cooler. holy smokes! Was it noisy?

John B
Re: Threading question

Jerome Kimberlin
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

On 10/11/2011 11:37 AM, nps0 wrote:
?

I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to clean up the threads.


Sounds like a fairly standard 5/32-32 thread to me.? You can get these at .

JerryK
My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?

nissan.370z
 

I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two also.

What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before from any company.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.
Re: Threading question

Randal Williams
 

Most cleaning rods use an 8-32 thread if they are greater than .22 caliber.? For .17 and .20, you need a 5-32 thread.

-rw

From: Robert Francis
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Cc: Norm
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading question

?
FWIW
.8mm Thread is really close to 32TPI.

Don't think you'd be able to tell, unless you had a really long piece.
Re: Damaged compound

 

Andrew,
I went down to the shop and looked at mine. The bolt threads in almost 9 threads, so if you still have 4-5 threads left, that might do it. Also a stud and nut would take some of the guess work out of cutting a longer bolt as I suggested in my previous post.

Frank

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Andrew" <akayton1@...> wrote:

G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne
Re: Damaged compound

 

Hi Andrew,
If you only pulled a few threads from the compound, there may be several more usable threads left. If so, get a longer bolt and cut it a 1/16" or so shy of bottoming out in the hole, but still tightens the post. It might be enough to get you by. In the meantime I'd order a new top slide from LMS.
Good luck with the Webster. I made one, and it runs great. I'm currently building Jerry Howell Powerhouse, which is slightly bigger, but very similar.

Frank

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Andrew" <akayton1@...> wrote:

G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne
Re: Damaged compound

 

I do have access to a drill press and mill.

What I also need is a source of the insert in Australia. One with
wheelchair access. That failing mail-order/Internet will be the way to
go. I try and support local business's where I can.

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:40 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:
Generally you do the insert yourself. Do you have a drill press or
mill?

There's various types of inserts, you might be able to get by with a
press fit one from the bottom. Something like this (if pictures work
in this group):



On 10/11/2011 03:33 PM, Andrew wrote:
I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
Re: Damaged compound

 

Michael,

Thanks for the response.

The tool was set dead centre which might be part of the problem. I was
parting a 57mm diameter piece of cast iron. The overhang might have been
too much resulting in it being to low. I feel that the chatter started
as the thread was failing. I misread the situation and tightened the
usual suspects. The gibs and carriage tend to be the culprits if there
is chatter. These were tightened so that nothing would move. The only
item moving was the one axis to do the plunge cut.

I am looking for the right way of fixing IF it can be fixed at all.

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 16:03 -0700, Michael Jablonski wrote:

Hello Andrew,

It sounds like your parting tool was set too low on the work and was
being pulled in and under the work putting excessive stress on the
tool post bolt. The parting tool needs to be set dead on center. The
chatter was probably from turning too fast. I know you didn't ask for
any advice on why this happened but thought I'd throw my two cents in.

Now you ask if it is worth repairing the compound. If you can drill
and tap the compound to accept a large bolt then I'd try to repair it.
I personally don't think that a helicoil would hold up for long but
that depends on how hard you push the lathe. It's a cheap fast attempt
at saving it.

Good luck and please let us know how it turns out.

Michael



-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 3:15 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound



G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster
engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and
drilled the inner diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to
part off the work from stock when I noticed a lot of chatter.
I stopped, cleaned up all the cast iron swarf and tightened
the gibs. I tied again and the chatter was just as bad. I
sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do
nothing would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS
#2461) came out of the compound. The holding bolt pulled the
threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4
turns. I knew this as the threaded part was still there like a
spring on the bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I
also plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the
supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound
is worth repairing and to warn others before they have
problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne
Re: Damaged compound

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hello Andrew,
?
It sounds like your parting tool was set too low on the work and was being pulled in and under the work putting excessive stress on the tool post bolt. The parting tool needs to be set dead on center. The chatter was probably from turning?too fast. I know you didn't ask for any advice on why this happened but thought I'd throw my two cents in.
?
Now you ask if it is worth repairing the compound. If you can drill and tap the compound to accept a large bolt then I'd try to repair it. I personally don't think that a helicoil would hold up for long but that depends on how hard you push the lathe. It's a cheap fast attempt at saving it.
?
Good luck and please let us know how it turns out.
?
Michael
?
?

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 3:15 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound

?

G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne
Re: Damaged compound

Jerry Durand
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Generally you do the insert yourself.? Do you have a drill press or mill?

There's various types of inserts, you might be able to get by with a press fit one from the bottom.? Something like this (if pictures work in this group):



On 10/11/2011 03:33 PM, Andrew wrote: 
I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew



-- 
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand

Re: Damaged compound

 

I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:

If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.

Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.

On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:
G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine.
I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing
would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of
the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I
knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also
plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is
worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand




Re: Damaged compound

Jerry Durand
 

If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.

Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.

On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:
G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
Damaged compound

 

G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne
61161 - 61180 of 120321