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Re: carbide wheel
The consensus on green wheels for carbide is that they work but cause micro cracks leading to early failure of the edge.
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Better to use diamond -- diamond wheels are reasonably priced now and should last a long while in a home shop. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
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Re: carbide wheel
MERTON B BAKER
Dunno, myself, I just bought the ones HF sells with its tool grinder, and
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they've worked OK. They never said what the grit size was, but it's worked just fine for me. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Jerry Durand Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 4:55 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] carbide wheel I'm thinking of getting a green wheel for my bench grinder for carbide cutters since I'm getting more of them. Which grit is the best for tool sharpening, I see Enco has them in 60, 80, and 120. I'm guessing 120 but figured it's best to ask. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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carbide wheel
Jerry Durand
I'm thinking of getting a green wheel for my bench grinder for carbide
cutters since I'm getting more of them. Which grit is the best for tool sharpening, I see Enco has them in 60, 80, and 120. I'm guessing 120 but figured it's best to ask. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
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Re: mini lathe and non aluminum cutting
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...> wrote:
I have a cheap red set as well. They cut so-so out of the box but work so much better after some time on the green wheel. They aren't total garbage. |
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
mattdbartlett
This happened to me once. As I recall, all I did was remove the gear, remove the support pin from the banjo, and drive the pin out (gently). I would recommend putting the screw back in the hole so that it isn't tight, and then tap it gently. Then take a file and some sand paper, and take down all of the rough spots. More grease is a good idea too. Mine hasn't done it again.
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-Matt --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jaspercan7" <jaspercan7@...> wrote:
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
Thanks to all for the replies. I did indeed get the bushing off using two screwdrivers. I cleaned it up a bit - just enough to keep me working - while i await the arrival of replacement parts. And I will be making a bronze bushing, at least, eventually.j
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., SirJohnOfYork <steelchipper@...> wrote:
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Re: 7X14 mini-lathe
Jim Dunmyer
Years ago, I kept getting the H.F. flyers with the ads for the 7X10 "Precision Lathe", for a price of $369.00, IIRC. I kept wondering just how good it could be for that sort of price. One day, I happened to get on their web site and saw the 7X10 for only $329.00; my credit card caught fire as I yanked it from my wallet!
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Once I had the lathe in hand, I did a bit of research (backwards, I know!) and found that there was nearly a cult following of the little machines. Yahoo! discussion groups, web sites that showed all sorts of mods, detailed instructions on finishing the lathe and making it "right", etc. I performed most of those operations and used the lathe for years, and recently upgraded to a lightly-used MicroMark 7X14. Of course, I had to do all the mods/tuneups again, but that's no big deal. As many have said, the lathe would cost probably twice as much if the factory lavished that sort of care on it. We all owe a debt to those users who documented their mods and tuneups so that we can do them to our lathes. Thanks, Guys!! <<Jim>> ----- Original Message -----
From: "MERTON B BAKER" <mertbaker@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:35 AM Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: 7X14 mini-lathe Dunno what others experience, except for the complaints I read about here, |
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Re: 7X14 mini-lathe
开云体育2nd Merts opinion.Im in Barcelona, Spain., and paid about 400� for a 350 mm 7x14, maybe 7 years ago. Have about 0.006 mm TIR, which is very good, imo. Put a 125 mm 4-jay independent chuck on it, and very happy with it. ALL my work, or 99%, in steels. Very good results, using proper (CCMT) carbide inserts almost exclusively. I use a BXA toolpost, and 16 mm toolholders, from Chronos. Lathe was cnc, no temporarily used as a polishing lathe only. Cannot really do big steel workpieces, above 120 mm, and I now have an industrial 12x for heavy pieces. ? |
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Re: 7X14 mini-lathe
MERTON B BAKER
Dunno what others experience, except for the complaints I read about here,
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but the experience I've had with the Chinese 7x lathes, one 7x10 from HF, One 7x12 from Homier (RB), and one 7x12 from Grizzly, is that they all worked much better that I expected from the amount of money I paid, and continue to do so. I was especially pleased to find out that the 7x12s are really 7x14s. Difference of opinion is what horse racing is all about, however. I don't know how many of these machines are in use in this country, let alone others, but adding up all the complaints would seem to indicate a very small percentage, and surely some of that would be from some who do not realize that they are looking in the mirror. To expect less than half a tenth runout from a $400 7x12 lathe seems unrealistic to me. Paying what a machine with guaranteed half-a-tenth runout would cost, is equally unrealistic, I'm a retired small town schoolteacher. Rejoice & learn. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of lathe_7x14 Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:04 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: 7X14 mini-lathe I think it is really a matter of getting what one pays for and that it would be unfair to blame the supplier. It is generally understood that between the Chinese factory and the buyer the box get's transshipped many times and bounced about, and things do come loose. Usually the first time the box gets opened is when it reaches the buyer and he does the 'quality check' at this end. I have seen one supplier who for ???100 offers to open the box and 'prepare' the lathe, but whether that includes a full functional test, I don't know. When I first looked at the Chinese lathes it was suggested that the best way of looking at them was as a 'kit of parts' and one has to be prepared to do some work on them. The fact that I, an 'expert' after one whole days experience, managed to clear all the problems, shows that they were fairly simple to resolve. I think the best approach is to examine the box on the pallet for any external signs of damage, before signing the carriers paperwork. The polystyrene packing is very thin, but bruises should show up on the outside of the cardboard box. After unpacking photograph anything you don't like and immediately inform the supplier. In this case the supplier was really on the ball and helpful and I would recommend them to anyone. They even told me to keep the two undersized tool holders and immediately sent me the correct replacements. So I have nothing but praise for the supplier and do not think it would be fair to penalise them in any way. I am a happy customer. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Jablonski" <michaeljab@...> wrote:
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
开云体育I have done quite a bit of thread cutting on my
7x14 MicroMark lathe and have not had any problems. Not sure I understand what
part you're talking about. Pictures?
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Chuck in E. TN |
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Re: 7X14 mini-lathe
lathe_7x14
I think it is really a matter of getting what one pays for and that it would be unfair to blame the supplier. It is generally understood that between the Chinese factory and the buyer the box get's transshipped many times and bounced about, and things do come loose. Usually the first time the box gets opened is when it reaches the buyer and he does the 'quality check' at this end. I have seen one supplier who for ?100 offers to open the box and 'prepare' the lathe, but whether that includes a full functional test, I don't know. When I first looked at the Chinese lathes it was suggested that the best way of looking at them was as a 'kit of parts' and one has to be prepared to do some work on them. The fact that I, an 'expert' after one whole days experience, managed to clear all the problems, shows that they were fairly simple to resolve.
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I think the best approach is to examine the box on the pallet for any external signs of damage, before signing the carriers paperwork. The polystyrene packing is very thin, but bruises should show up on the outside of the cardboard box. After unpacking photograph anything you don't like and immediately inform the supplier. In this case the supplier was really on the ball and helpful and I would recommend them to anyone. They even told me to keep the two undersized tool holders and immediately sent me the correct replacements. So I have nothing but praise for the supplier and do not think it would be fair to penalise them in any way. I am a happy customer. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Jablonski" <michaeljab@...> wrote:
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
First remove the shaft assembly off the lathe. Now we limit the damage
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to the machine. (Don't ask how I learned this!) Place the shaft over a short pipe. I used a PVC cut-off that was 25 or 30 mm long. It was just the right diameter. A few squirts of penetrating oil to give it some lube. Then a drifter was used that fitted to the bottom of the threaded hole and drifted gentle it out. An alternative is to place a suitable bolt in the threaded portion and strike that. I did not have a suitable bolt hence my drifting from the bottom of the hole to protect the thread. The danger is you can break the bottom out of the hole which is bad. A third alternative which I feel might make the situation worse is to have a drifter that fits the 8mm hole of the bush. I avoided this method as I felt if it stated to mushroom the metal of the shaft it would expand onto the bushing or reduce the opening of the threaded portion. Just my 5 cents. Andrew in Melbourne. On Sun, 2011-10-09 at 11:28 -0700, Ian Newman wrote:
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
Hi Paul,
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I've had exactly the same problem. I managed to tap the shaft out of the bush using a brass drift. I cleaned it up and it was usable again. The real problem is that it is a steel shaft running in a steel bush. I made a complete new banjo to Richard Hagenbuch design and used a phodphor bronze shaft. Since then I have not had any problems. Mosre info on the redesigned banjo can be found here: Mike --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jaspercan7" <jaspercan7@...> wrote:
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
I had the same problem a few months ago. I had to use a drifter to get
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things apart. I cleaned up the parts and gave them the shaft a polish as it was scored. It looks like a lubrication problem so I tried white lithium grease on that shaft. I am interested to see if others also experienced this problem. I also cleaned my gears as I had greased them up when I go the machine which was a mistake. As most are nylon/plastic they don't need grease which the swarf sticks to. Cheers, Andrew in Melbourne On Sun, 2011-10-09 at 16:17 +0000, jaspercan7 wrote:
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Re: 7X14 mini-lathe
开云体育Sounds
like a lot of problems right out of the box. Would you mind telling us where you
purchased this lathe from? It might help other in deciding where they purchase
their first lathe from. Many newbies might not want want to have to deal with
repairing or adjusting so many things on a new lathe.
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Thanks,
Michael
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
开云体育Happened to me too! Didn’t make sure it was oiled often enough I guess.
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Don’t fuss with it too much! You can get news one from Little Machine Shop
for just a few bucks.
for? $3.84
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for $ 5.94
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Of course, you could make these yourself if you had a working
machine........
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Bob
? From: jaspercan7
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 9:17 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] shaft and bushing for the B/C change
gears ?
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I was doing some general turning under power feed yesterday, nothing
elaborate, and all of a sudden the lathe stalled. After much investigation I
finally diagnosed the problem: the B/C gear bushing has somehow fused or stuck
itself to the B/C gear shaft on which it rides. Seems absolutely welded. Right
now I have it soaking in wd40. |
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
开云体育?Replacement is only $3.84 from . ?I'd say to just think of the replacement part? as a kind of reverse Murpy's Law: If it no longer matters whether or not you can get the old bushing off without mangling it all up, it will of course come off with no real drama. Only if there is no replacement easily available does Murphy's Law apply.? Similar to the "butter-side-down" rule for dropping your toast or the fact that it is exceedingly rare for your car to conveniently break down right in your driveway, or perhaps in front of your favorite local garage. ?When mine seized up I used two flat screwdrivers to force it off, then I lightly round filed the ends to clean up the prying marks, and wetsanded the shaft down a bit until it was a sliding fit again. Since then I have made a point of using lots of white lithium there ever since. This is exception to the mostly true opinion from those you may have read about here who have decided those plastic gears need no lubricant... except for that metal on metal bushing you discovered, that too is only mostly true... :-) ?Good Luck! ?John Z. Of York, Pa. On 10/9/2011 12:47 PM, jaspercan7 wrote: ? |
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
Ian Newman
--- On Sun, 9/10/11, jaspercan7 wrote:
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Re: 7X14 mini-lathe
lathe_7x14
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "copascetic1" <copascetic1@...> wrote:
I have had my new 7 x 14 for a week now. There were several faults when it arrived (as I had expected). The DRO wasn't working and that turned out to be an intermittant connection on the Display board. The usual fault is the sensor plug working loose during transit. The speed sensor had been maladjusted and the interrupter vanes almost touching one side of the opto switch. The mounting for the sensor has adjustment holes, so that wasn't a big problem, to center the switch gap around the vane. The power to the spindle was also intermittent and that was because a connector had worked loose on the main PCB board, next to the sensor plug. The MT2 hole in the tail stock had not been bored deep enough and it was ejecting the centre, effectively losing a good 20.0mm of travel. I had read about this problem elsewhere and cut about 20.0 mm off the end of the Morse adapter sleeve for my chuck and that fixed it. One could gain about another 15.0mm of travel with a smaller diameter Morse taper, but I am happy with it as it is. I also ordered two spare tool holders for the quick change tool post, making a total of five. The two spare ones would not fit on the dove tail of the QRTP and the supplier changed them for me. When the tool holders are set to the correct height, they foul the QRTP clamping lever, so at some stage I need to find some shorter socket headed screws, for tool height adjustment. I found it a bit finiky pushing the sling dovetail out of the block each time I wanted to change a tool holder, so I have fitted a spring on the plunger so it always pushes the dovetail out when taking off the tension. That is about it for the moment. I did some real turning on it yesterday and today and I am well pleased with the lathe and find it excellent value for money. |
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Re: shaft and bushing for the B/C change gears
I should be more specific. In addition to suggestions to keep it from happening again, are there any recommendations for non-destructive ways of separating the stuck bushing from the shaft?
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
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