In article <OOEBKAFCDAGNJFABEHBHMEBPHCAA.mertbaker@...>, MERTON B BAKER <mertbaker@...> wrote: More elegant still, use a tap
drill to remove the damaged threads, and thread the drilled insert before
installing it with loctite. Wouldn't there be difficulties in trying to get the threads to line up this way? -- Stuart
|
Mert,
I had a look at clearing the hole, adding an insert of sorts and
re-tapping. I did not feel comfortable doing that as it might do more
harm than good.
My work around seems to be OK for now. Only time will tell if the
remaining threads will handle the stresses of machining.
I also noticed that the parting tool holder from A2Z had slipped past
its reference point. On the top there is the adjustment knob made from
brass. It has slipped past its stop point and most likely caused the
tool to be below its ideal height. My next project is to make a larger
adjustment knob.
Thanks for the comments and encouragement.
Andrew
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Wed, 2011-10-12 at 07:07 -0400, MERTON B BAKER wrote:
If I have the problem correctly, you have a hole, formerly threaded
for the
stud which secures the toolpost, with the first two or three threads
either
torn out, or damaged. Assuming that I have the right idea of the
situation, here is what I would do. The hole in the topslide is tapped
all
the way trough the casting. I don't know this, it may not be. No
matter,
take the top slide casting off the lathe. Now, there are two choices;
first, the easy one. Make sure the original threads go all the way
thru the
casting. I know the hole does, but the threads are an assumption. If
they
go through, fine, if they don't, find the right tap and see that they
do.
File off any burrs left on the top of the casting that might have been
left
when the original stud tore out. Next, get, or make, a replacement
stud.
Maybe a piece of all-thread. In any case, it wants to be longer than
the
original one by 6 or 8 threads, we need it to thread deeper into the
topslide casting. That's the "quick & dirty" method. Now, a more
elegant
one.
Drill out only the damaged threads, no more, and make a steel plug
that's a
close sliding fit in the drilled out portion of the hole, and drill it
through with the tap drill for the thread on the stud.
It wants to fit a few thou below the topslide surface when in place.
Put it
in with hi-strength Loctite, let it set up a day or two, and going in
from
the good threads below, tap it for the stud. More elegant still, use a
tap
drill to remove the damaged threads, and thread the drilled insert
before
installing it with loctite. In either case the bottom of the plug
should be
turned conical to the same angle left by the drill. Otherwise, there
will
be a gap, filled with swarf from tapping the plug.
The stud should stand at right angles to the top of the slide. If the
bottom of the toolpost is undamaged, whether the stud sticks up true
is
moot, when things are tightened up, the toolpost will make it so.
Hope this helps.
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 6:34 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound
I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where
do
I get it done?
More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square
to
the surface?
Cheers,
Andrew
On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:
If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.
Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.
On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:
G'Day to all,
My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster
engine.
I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.
When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing
would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out
of
the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.
When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I
knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.
At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also
plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied
bolt.
The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is
worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.
Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Dan,
I use the M10 bolt and Allen key for the A2Z as I find it easier to use
with my limited hand control. I also like the idea that there is one
less lever on top of the machine when it is running. Less to get in the
way or be confused when changing a tool.
Thanks for the response.
Andrew
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Wed, 2011-10-12 at 16:48 +0000, oldFLH80 wrote:
First thing I did when I mounted my A2Z toolpost on mine was to make a
longer stud so that I could use the stock adjuster nut/handle rather
than the bolt. I guess I kind of foresaw your problem, the bolt just
didn't seem like a good idea, repeatedly threading into relatively
soft chinese metal. Plus the stock handle is way easier to use than
having to grab a wrench every time you need to move the post. At the
same time I also made a spacer for said longer stud, so I could still
use the stock 4-way post without having to change the stud. I leave
one of those set up with a parting tool and a grooving tool. A bit
more rigid than the A2Z is for those operations, especially in steel.
Dan
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew <akayton1@...> wrote:
UPDATE:
A trip to the bolt store and 79 cents later I have a 5mm longer
bolt. It
has 6 turns before it snugs down. Much better than before. The original
tool post stud makes 8 turns to hit the bottom of the same hole.
So for it looks like the simplest answer is a longer bolt and no repair
or replacement. This weekend will tell when I continue with machining
the cylinder.
Thank you to all who responded. That is what I love about this forum.
Cheers,
Andrew
|
First thing I did when I mounted my A2Z toolpost on mine was to make a longer stud so that I could use the stock adjuster nut/handle rather than the bolt. I guess I kind of foresaw your problem, the bolt just didn't seem like a good idea, repeatedly threading into relatively soft chinese metal. Plus the stock handle is way easier to use than having to grab a wrench every time you need to move the post. At the same time I also made a spacer for said longer stud, so I could still use the stock 4-way post without having to change the stud. I leave one of those set up with a parting tool and a grooving tool. A bit more rigid than the A2Z is for those operations, especially in steel.
Dan
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew <akayton1@...> wrote:
UPDATE:
A trip to the bolt store and 79 cents later I have a 5mm longer bolt. It
has 6 turns before it snugs down. Much better than before. The original
tool post stud makes 8 turns to hit the bottom of the same hole.
So for it looks like the simplest answer is a longer bolt and no repair
or replacement. This weekend will tell when I continue with machining
the cylinder.
Thank you to all who responded. That is what I love about this forum.
Cheers,
Andrew
|
The major diameter for a #7 is .151, which is smaller than he measured. I'd believe 5/32".
Kerry
Jerome Kimberlin wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10/12/2011 8:19 AM, ralph_pattersonus wrote:
Yes, but... Norm measured the thread OD at 0.153". Unless he used thread wires, chances are the actual thread is 5/32 - 32. Thread crowns tend to wear a little and are sometimes rounded over a bit as well. Chances are the major diameter is 0.156" and that is only 0.003" larger than what he measured.
Thus, Victor lists 5/32" x 32 taps and dies, which is what I noted in a previous posting and what I would buy if the economics to do so exist.
Victor is the best place I've found to get special taps and dies in both metric and imperial. I do get their catalog but generally go online to see what they have. Interesting to note that they mention #7, however. I wouldn't have seen that online.
JerryK
I just received a catalog #20100A from Victor Machinery Exchange
(www.victornet.com)in NYC (purchased a M5x.8 left hand die). On page
116, under "Special Taps" is listed #7 taps in pitches 30, 32, 36,
48, 56, 64, 72, and 80 tpi. The table for special dies only offers
pitches 36-48, so your 32 pitch would be a custom request, which they
say they can do. Ordinarily, the #7 size are only produced as wood
and sheet metal screws, as stated somewhere in a reference book.
Machine screw makers skip the sizes 7 and 9. Check out the web site.
--- In 7x12minilathe@... <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>, "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:
I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found
that the
thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but
the OD is
0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's
Handbook
doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine
screw size?
I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be
nice to
clean up the threads.
Norm
|
On 10/12/2011 8:19 AM, ralph_pattersonus wrote:
Yes, but...? Norm measured the thread OD at 0.153".? Unless he used
thread wires, chances are the actual thread is 5/32 - 32.? Thread
crowns tend to wear a little and are sometimes rounded over a bit as
well.? Chances are the major diameter is 0.156" and that is only
0.003" larger than what he measured.
Thus, Victor lists 5/32" x 32 taps and dies, which is what I noted
in a previous posting and what I would buy if the economics to do so
exist.
Victor is the best place I've found to get special taps and dies in
both metric and imperial.? I do get their catalog but generally go
online to see what they have.? Interesting to note that they mention
#7, however.? I wouldn't have seen that online.
JerryK
> I just received a catalog
#20100A from Victor Machinery Exchange
> ()in NYC (purchased a M5x.8 left hand die).
On page
> 116, under "Special Taps" is listed #7 taps in pitches 30,
32, 36,
> 48, 56, 64, 72, and 80 tpi. The table for special dies only
offers
> pitches 36-48, so your 32 pitch would be a custom request,
which they
> say they can do. Ordinarily, the #7 size are only produced as
wood
> and sheet metal screws, as stated somewhere in a reference
book.
> Machine screw makers skip the sizes 7 and 9. Check out the
web site.
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@...
> , "nps0"
wrote:
>>
>> I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found
that the
>> thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but
the OD is
>> 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's
Handbook
>> doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine
screw size?
>> I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be
nice to
>> clean up the threads.
>>
>> Norm
>>
>
>
|
I just received a catalog #20100A from Victor Machinery Exchange (www.victornet.com)in NYC (purchased a M5x.8 left hand die). On page 116, under "Special Taps" is listed #7 taps in pitches 30, 32, 36, 48, 56, 64, 72, and 80 tpi. The table for special dies only offers pitches 36-48, so your 32 pitch would be a custom request, which they say they can do. Ordinarily, the #7 size are only produced as wood and sheet metal screws, as stated somewhere in a reference book. Machine screw makers skip the sizes 7 and 9. Check out the web site.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:
I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to clean up the threads.
Norm
|
If I have the problem correctly, you have a hole, formerly threaded for the
stud which secures the toolpost, with the first two or three threads either
torn out, or damaged. Assuming that I have the right idea of the
situation, here is what I would do. The hole in the topslide is tapped all
the way trough the casting. I don't know this, it may not be. No matter,
take the top slide casting off the lathe. Now, there are two choices;
first, the easy one. Make sure the original threads go all the way thru the
casting. I know the hole does, but the threads are an assumption. If they
go through, fine, if they don't, find the right tap and see that they do.
File off any burrs left on the top of the casting that might have been left
when the original stud tore out. Next, get, or make, a replacement stud.
Maybe a piece of all-thread. In any case, it wants to be longer than the
original one by 6 or 8 threads, we need it to thread deeper into the
topslide casting. That's the "quick & dirty" method. Now, a more elegant
one.
Drill out only the damaged threads, no more, and make a steel plug that's a
close sliding fit in the drilled out portion of the hole, and drill it
through with the tap drill for the thread on the stud.
It wants to fit a few thou below the topslide surface when in place. Put it
in with hi-strength Loctite, let it set up a day or two, and going in from
the good threads below, tap it for the stud. More elegant still, use a tap
drill to remove the damaged threads, and thread the drilled insert before
installing it with loctite. In either case the bottom of the plug should be
turned conical to the same angle left by the drill. Otherwise, there will
be a gap, filled with swarf from tapping the plug.
The stud should stand at right angles to the top of the slide. If the
bottom of the toolpost is undamaged, whether the stud sticks up true is
moot, when things are tightened up, the toolpost will make it so.
Hope this helps.
Mert
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Andrew Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 6:34 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do I get it done? More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to the surface? Cheers, Andrew On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:
If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.
Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.
On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:
G'Day to all,
My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.
When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing
would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of
the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.
When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I
knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.
At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also
plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.
The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is
worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.
Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links
|
Re: What is the hardest synthetic rubber material?
From: ironeaglehq
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, 20 September 2011 7:28 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] What is the hardest synthetic rubber material?
?
What is the absolute toughest synthetic rubber material available?
Thanks a lot,
Chris
|
UPDATE:
A trip to the bolt store and 79 cents later I have a 5mm longer bolt. It
has 6 turns before it snugs down. Much better than before. The original
tool post stud makes 8 turns to hit the bottom of the same hole.
So for it looks like the simplest answer is a longer bolt and no repair
or replacement. This weekend will tell when I continue with machining
the cylinder.
Thank you to all who responded. That is what I love about this forum.
Cheers,
Andrew
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 20:59 -0700, george curtis wrote:
i gave up on helicoils over 25 years ago. they are just the worst
thing. i've since used time serts.
george
______________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew <akayton1@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tue, October 11, 2011 3:33:41 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound
I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where
do
I get it done?
More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square
to
the surface?
Cheers,
Andrew
|
i gave up on helicoils over 25 years ago. they are just the worst thing. i've since used time serts.
?
george
From: Andrew
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tue, October 11, 2011 3:33:41 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound
?
I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do
I get it done?
More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to
the surface?
Cheers,
Andrew
|
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?
As long as the bed isn't damaged, it's unlikely to have been knocked out of true. That doesn't guarantee it was true to begin with! The motor may have been knocked out of alignment; that's a user adjustment, so it's not a big problem.
FWIW, I find the splash guard is nothing more than another piece of sheet metal waiting to be used in a project;-) The tray is useful, can probably be straightened with a little creative mallet work.
Grizzly has a reputation for providing good customer service, they'll probably entertain any reasonable requests.
Roy
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nissan.370z" <ebandit@...> wrote:
I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two also.
What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before from any company.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.
|
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?
In a matter like this, it is not really relevant what the shipper (Grizzly) wants to do.? This is an insurance matter, and the insurance is through the shipping company.? If there was no explicit insurance on the package, then the shipping? company itself if liable.? Do not delay filing a claim with the shipping company, lest you regret it.? It's good that the driver noted the damage, but that alone may not suffice to start the claims process.
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On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 8:42 PM, nissan.370z <ebandit@...> wrote:
?
Grizzly wants me to check for other damage and claims it should be ok as far as still being true. they want to send parts to fix the damaged stuff, but I was thinking either a discount if the rest is ok or just a new machine that has not been dropped at all.
Thanks. I haven't spoke with the shipper yet other than the delivery guy driving the truck, he marked the damage on the sheet while I said what I could see on first inspection. I then emailed pictures to Grizzly within 5 minutes of delivery.
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bruce Freeman wrote:
>
> Contact the shipping company at once and make a claim against their
> insurance. Sounds like the whole machine should be replaced for you. If
> you delay or throw away packaging material, your claim will be very weak.
>
> On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:51 PM, nissan.370z wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was
> > dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few
> > gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end
> > but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a
> > good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two
> > also.
> >
> > What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of
> > true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a
> > damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a
> > discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before
> > from any company.
> >
> > Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in
> > the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other
> > details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the
> > shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce
> NJ
>
--
Bruce
NJ
|
Check with automotive machine shops or motorcycle repair places. Some auto parts stores sell Helicoil kits in common sizes.
Roy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew <akayton1@...> wrote:
I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do
I get it done?
More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to
the surface?
Cheers,
Andrew
On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:
If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.
Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.
On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:
G'Day to all,
My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.
When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing
would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of
the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.
When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I
knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.
At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also
plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.
The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is
worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.
Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne
------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand
|
There are a gaggle of odd ball threads it might be, it's close to an M4 x 0.75 (M 0.75 corresponds to 33 3/4 tpi) which isn't a common thread either!
Here's the chart I find useful:
Which is contained in a really neat collection of tech references:
Lacking a die, a thread restoring file is nice for final clean up of single point cut threads.
Roy
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Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:
I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to clean up the threads.
Norm
|
Brazing is how the carbide is attached to the steel shank, the carbide itself is sintered.
Roy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ray Kornele <krazykyngekorny@...> wrote:
Most carbide tools are high-temp BRAZED! I, too worked in a machine shop,
and ordered many of the tools, including M-5 for some special jobs that
could not be cooled with coolant.
I, also, ordered, and, installed a vortex cooler. Keeps things cool by
producing super cold air.
KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)
On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:41 AM, Leo Cormier <leocor@...> wrote:
**
"The green wheels don't actually grind the carbide, they pull little
pieces of carbide away & grind the binder."
What binder? Carbide is a sintered material, which means that tiny pieces
of carbide (almost powder) are compressed under great force and heated until
it binds together as one piece.
|
Not exactly:
My point was that green wheels don't give as fine a finish as diamond wheels because the green wheels don't grind the actual carbide particles. Then again, it's been a long time since I used a green wheel! With newer carbide being finer grained, it may not make as much difference as it used to.
Roy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Leo Cormier <leocor@...> wrote:
"The green wheels don't actually grind the carbide, they pull little pieces of carbide away & grind the binder."
What binder? Carbide is a sintered material, which means that tiny pieces of carbide (almost powder) are compressed under great force and heated until it binds together as one piece.
As far as "pull little pieces of carbide away" goes, that is exactly what grinding is.
I spent 12 years in vary large machine shops (in shipyards) and we always used the green wheel to rough the brazed carbide tools and the wet diamond wheel to put a polish on just the carbide part of the tool. In a pinch, you can get by without the diamond.
Leo
|
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?
Grizzly wants me to check for other damage and claims it should be ok as far as still being true. they want to send parts to fix the damaged stuff, but I was thinking either a discount if the rest is ok or just a new machine that has not been dropped at all.
Thanks. I haven't spoke with the shipper yet other than the delivery guy driving the truck, he marked the damage on the sheet while I said what I could see on first inspection. I then emailed pictures to Grizzly within 5 minutes of delivery.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bruce Freeman <freemab222@...> wrote:
Contact the shipping company at once and make a claim against their
insurance. Sounds like the whole machine should be replaced for you. If
you delay or throw away packaging material, your claim will be very weak.
On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:51 PM, nissan.370z <ebandit@...> wrote:
**
I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was
dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few
gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end
but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a
good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two
also.
What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of
true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a
damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a
discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before
from any company.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in
the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other
details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the
shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.
--
Bruce
NJ
|
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?
Contact the shipping company at once and make a claim against their insurance.? Sounds like the whole machine should be replaced for you.? If you delay or throw away packaging material, your claim will be very weak.
On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:51 PM, nissan.370z <ebandit@...> wrote:
?
I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two also.
What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before from any company.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.
--
Bruce
NJ
|
Hilsch was the original inventor of the vortex tube cooling system.?See ?
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Mildly so. Not deafening, by a long shot. Just a moderate sound of air escaping. What surprised me was, in 1980 something, it only cost about $200. But, we had to install a refrigerated air dryer to supply air. Withouit the drier, the cooler kept shooting ice bullets, from frozen condensate from the air.
We had some machining to do that had to be cooled, but, couldn't take liquid coolant.
I don't think it was a hilsch. I assume that is a brand name??
KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid) On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 9:42 AM, John Brookes ?<haiticare2011@...>?wrote: ?hilsch vortex cooler. holy smokes! Was it noisy?
John B
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