开云体育

Well, you needed an excuse to buy a mill anyway. You
won't regret having one.

Frank Hoose


--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is
purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this
task! Nick
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger
has posted some info on aligning the ts:

--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base

or

the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all

three

planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What

methods

have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would

be

cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to

correct

errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock,

saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015"

lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of

correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you

advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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The quality varies from machine to machine, but from
what I have seen and heard, has steadily gotten better
over the last few years. The new ones are usually very
good right out of the box, although they still require
some adjustments and TLC for best performance.

The early Homier lathes were from a different
manufacturer. The good ones are pretty nice, but I
heard that they had a lot of QC problems and I believe
that was a factor in why Homier switched to the Sieg
brand.

Frank Hoose


--- "Craig C. Hopewell
<chopewel@...>"
<chopewel@...> wrote:

I can appreciate your concerns completely and had
for some months
prior to purchasing a Homier 7X12 been paralyzed due
to same. Any of
the 7X1x lathes will be somewhat deficient if real
precision is to be
expected. The choices really come down to $$$; a
Homier at about $360
delivered, a Lathemaster at over $700 delivered, a
Prazzi at some low
to mid thousands of dollars, or a Myford at over
$7000 in this size
class.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jackasspkd
<leguess1@j...>"
<leguess1@j...> wrote:

I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and

tweaked but yall are

getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to

get it to line up

right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If

I couldnt get one

to adjust right I would send it back for another

lathe or for a

refund. I dont want to have to buy a milling

machine to start taking

metal off of a brand new lathe.

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Shimming is valid; I suspect they'd replace your lathe with
current production, not an exact duplicate of original. Shimming is
also much easier to undo than cutting ;-)

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Point well taken Roy, although I have contacted Homier several

times, and wonder if I do exercise the option to return the lathe, if
they will give me the "newer" style 7 X 12, or another of the older
style, which is what I have. While both have their shortcomings, the
older Homier does have some additional features not found on the
newer style: oil ports, way wipers and lead screw extension. I will
attempt to shim the headstock, as this seems to be far less
complicated than cutting the tail stock base, as the tail stock does
indicate true in all three planes. Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: My

thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With

either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to

leave

a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out

that

this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered,

the

lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...>

wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs

to

be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected

with

a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate

the

same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is

machined,

reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

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Point well taken Roy, although I have contacted Homier several times, and wonder if I do exercise the option to return the lathe, if they will give me the "newer" style 7 X 12, or another of the older style, which is what I have. While both have their shortcomings, the older Homier does have some additional features not found on the newer style: oil ports, way wipers and lead screw extension. I will attempt to shim the headstock, as this seems to be far less complicated than cutting the tail stock base, as the tail stock does indicate true in all three planes. Regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With
either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to leave
a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out that
this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered, the
lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to
be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected with
a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

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My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With
either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to leave
a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out that
this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered, the
lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to
be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected with
a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With
either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple
passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the
appearance of the flycut surface; it's strictly aesthetics :-)
There is the issue of why not make it Homier's problem? I know
some of us (me), suffer from "male answer syndrome" and hate to leave
a problem personally unsolved. However, the posts pointing out that
this is a vendor QC problem, raise a valid point. As delivered, the
lathe was unsatisfactory; the vendor's low budget "fix" has not
corrected the problem; time for a refund or replacement machine.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in

correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to
be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a
horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years
ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can
withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling
attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring
just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound
assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected with
a different method! Regards, Nick

"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote: A

milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling

attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
<<SNIP>>

I can appreciate your concerns completely and had for some months
prior to purchasing a Homier 7X12 been paralyzed due to same. Any of
the 7X1x lathes will be somewhat deficient if real precision is to be
expected. The choices really come down to $$$; a Homier at about $360
delivered, a Lathemaster at over $700 delivered, a Prazzi at some low
to mid thousands of dollars, or a Myford at over $7000 in this size
class.

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jackasspkd <leguess1@j...>"
<leguess1@j...> wrote:

I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are
getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up
right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get one
to adjust right I would send it back for another lathe or for a
refund. I dont want to have to buy a milling machine to start taking
metal off of a brand new lathe.

I guess it all comes down to this: If money and space were no object, then a brand new South Bend 10" or one of the other lathes out there would fill the bill. On the other hand, for hobby/limited use, one of the bigger lathes is a considerable investment, not to mention cost of shipping and setting up such a machine. Given the small cost of these asian made lathes, even with their inherent inaccuracies, one would be hard pressed to justify purchasing a larger lathe, unless the intent is a start-up manufacturing shop, or serious production work. Regards, Nick
"jackasspkd <leguess1@...>" <leguess1@...> wrote:I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are
getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up
right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get one
to adjust right I would send it back for another lathe or for a
refund. I dont want to have to buy a milling machine to start taking
metal off of a brand new lathe.


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I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are
getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up
right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get one
to adjust right I would send it back for another lathe or for a
refund. I dont want to have to buy a milling machine to start taking
metal off of a brand new lathe.

Roy:
I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in a horizontal plane. I have had some experience using flycutters years ago (Bridgeport mill), and wonder if the milling attachment can withstand the forces produced by the flycutter. The milling attachment seems to be the most cost effective way to go, requiring just a good angle plate and a suitable vice for the compound assembly. Thanks for the excellent tip on getting this corrected with a different method! Regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: A milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling
attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and

some extras to accomplish this task! Nick

Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info

on aligning the ts:

lstock/BaseMod/MillingBase.html

--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or
the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all three
planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods
have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote: My choice would be
cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct
errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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I think this a case of one gets what one pays for.

There are some nice German lathes of a similar size but four to five times
the price, at least in the UK.

For many hobbyist buying cheap and getting it right is part of the fun.

A milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling
attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the
errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the
same errors. Take light cuts until the whole surface is machined,
reinstall & re-measure; correct any errors that crept in.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and

some extras to accomplish this task! Nick

Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info

on aligning the ts:

lstock/BaseMod/MillingBase.html

--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or
the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all three
planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods
have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...>"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote: My choice would be
cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct
errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this task! Nick
Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts:



--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or
the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all three
planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods
have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would be
cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct
errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts:



--- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or
the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will
require setting either piece accurately in all three
planes prior to cutting. How should the base be
checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods
have others used to determine squareness in regard
to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting
this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy.
Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would be
cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not
parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct
errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo
<ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment

problems with

replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle,

cross-slide and

compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

dramatically
improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower

than the
tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction?

Should I shim the

headstock, and if so, is there a difference in

brass vs. steel
shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut

down? Replacement of

the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due

to this height

difference, I get a slight chatter and taper

0.0055" on a 9.5"
length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height

difference as the

tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise

that shimming the

headstock is the preferred method, I would also

consider upgrading

the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in

contemplation of eventually

using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have

any of you changed

these bearings? If so, any notable difference in

how the lathe

sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations

would be greatly

appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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Roy:
Should the material be removed from the base or the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will require setting either piece accurately in all three planes prior to cutting. How should the base be checked on the lathe prior to milling? What methods have others used to determine squareness in regard to the bed? I appreciate all your help in getting this lathe up to an acceptable level of accuracy. Best regards, Nick
"roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>" <roylowenthal@...> wrote: My choice would be cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo <ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment problems with
replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle, cross-slide and
compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is dramatically

improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower than the

tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction? Should I shim the
headstock, and if so, is there a difference in brass vs. steel

shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut down? Replacement of
the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due to this height
difference, I get a slight chatter and taper 0.0055" on a 9.5"

length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height difference as the
tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise that shimming the
headstock is the preferred method, I would also consider upgrading
the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in contemplation of eventually
using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have any of you changed
these bearings? If so, any notable difference in how the lathe
sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

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My choice would be cutting on the tailstock. A number of people
have found that the tailstock machining is not parallel to the
bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct errors without
having to shim the tailstock after machining.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "ntdefeo <ntdefeo@y...>"
<ntdefeo@y...> wrote:

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment problems with
replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle, cross-slide and
compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is dramatically

improved,

although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower than the

tailstock.

What would be the preferred method of correction? Should I shim the
headstock, and if so, is there a difference in brass vs. steel

shims?

Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut down? Replacement of
the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due to this height
difference, I get a slight chatter and taper 0.0055" on a 9.5"

length

of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height difference as the
tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise that shimming the
headstock is the preferred method, I would also consider upgrading
the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in contemplation of eventually
using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have any of you changed
these bearings? If so, any notable difference in how the lathe
sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

Good Afternoon All:

Finally got most kinks out of my alignment problems with
replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle, cross-slide and
compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is dramatically improved,
although new problem is headstock is 0.015" lower than the tailstock.
What would be the preferred method of correction? Should I shim the
headstock, and if so, is there a difference in brass vs. steel shims?
Or, should the tailstock base be carefully cut down? Replacement of
the parts has improved accuracy greatly, but due to this height
difference, I get a slight chatter and taper 0.0055" on a 9.5" length
of stock. I attribute the chatter to the height difference as the
tool advances toward the headstock. If you advise that shimming the
headstock is the preferred method, I would also consider upgrading
the spindle bearing to ABEC-3 units, in contemplation of eventually
using a 4 or 5" 4-jaw chuck on this lathe. Have any of you changed
these bearings? If so, any notable difference in how the lathe
sounds/operates? Any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly
appreciated.

Regards,
Nick

Rick's got a great idea. The same thought occurred to
me when I was last making a backing plate. Maybe I'll
try that on this next one.

Here's a link for those who may wonder what were
talking about:



Frank Hoose


--- bflint <bflint@...> wrote:

Frank, I haven't made by backing plate yet either,
but I have some materials
for it. I have a nice 1" thick piece of 5"
diameter 12L14 that I am going
to use.

I read about Rick Kruger's adjustable chuck plate
and was kind of intrigued
by that idea. Perhaps that's a good fallback
design if one tries to make a
non-adjustable chuck and ends up with too much
runout? What do you think?
Flint

----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Hoose" <fhoose@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Cap. of 4 jaw chuck?

Hi, Flint. I bought the 5" chuck, but have not

had

time yet to make the backing plate. For those who

are

interested, the following link has lots of info on
chuck options for the minilathe, and a link to the
page on how to make a back plate for chucks larger
than 3" diameter:

Frank Hoose



--- bflint <bflint@...> wrote:

CFSHOUSE:
I have a 7x12 (old version Homier). The current
Homier and Grizzly are
pretty much the same unit. Several of us with

this

lathe have recently
bought a 5" 3 jaw chuck from J&L Industrial, on

sale

for $64.
Part no. is PCC-05000

The chuck jaws still seem to clear the ways of

the

lathe at max extension.
The specs say the external jaws can grip an OD

of

110 mm or about 4.33
inches.
There is a 4-jaw 5" chuck made by Bison that a
minilathe owner has and is
happy with. But, it's a bit more expensive, at
approx. $150. If you need a
4 jaw though, this might be a good way to go if

you

want max capacity with
the 7x12.

One word of caution. You will have to find or

make

an adapter plate to
mount a 5" chuck on the mini lathe. There are
several how-to web pages to
guide you through this. Makes a good project!
Regards,
Flint


----- Original Message -----
From: <cfshouse@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 8:12 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Cap. of 4 jaw chuck?

Hi,
I am debating on which lathe to buy the 7x12

or

9x20 and was

wondering what the largest cap. that a 4 jaw

chuck

will hold in

either of these 2 lathes? I think that the 7x

will

be large enough

though I will have to purchase the 4 jaw for

it.

Also what is the

largest recommended size chuck for the 7x?
Is the speedway as good a lathe as say the

Grizzly

or HF?

Thanks for any info, cfshouse



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Frank, I haven't made by backing plate yet either, but I have some materials
for it. I have a nice 1" thick piece of 5" diameter 12L14 that I am going
to use.

I read about Rick Kruger's adjustable chuck plate and was kind of intrigued
by that idea. Perhaps that's a good fallback design if one tries to make a
non-adjustable chuck and ends up with too much runout? What do you think?
Flint

Hi, Flint. I bought the 5" chuck, but have not had
time yet to make the backing plate. For those who are
interested, the following link has lots of info on
chuck options for the minilathe, and a link to the
page on how to make a back plate for chucks larger
than 3" diameter:



Frank Hoose



--- bflint <bflint@...> wrote:

CFSHOUSE:
I have a 7x12 (old version Homier). The current
Homier and Grizzly are
pretty much the same unit. Several of us with this
lathe have recently
bought a 5" 3 jaw chuck from J&L Industrial, on sale
for $64.
Part no. is PCC-05000

The chuck jaws still seem to clear the ways of the
lathe at max extension.
The specs say the external jaws can grip an OD of
110 mm or about 4.33
inches.
There is a 4-jaw 5" chuck made by Bison that a
minilathe owner has and is
happy with. But, it's a bit more expensive, at
approx. $150. If you need a
4 jaw though, this might be a good way to go if you
want max capacity with
the 7x12.

One word of caution. You will have to find or make
an adapter plate to
mount a 5" chuck on the mini lathe. There are
several how-to web pages to
guide you through this. Makes a good project!
Regards,
Flint


----- Original Message -----
From: <cfshouse@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 8:12 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Cap. of 4 jaw chuck?

Hi,
I am debating on which lathe to buy the 7x12 or

9x20 and was

wondering what the largest cap. that a 4 jaw chuck

will hold in

either of these 2 lathes? I think that the 7x will

be large enough

though I will have to purchase the 4 jaw for it.

Also what is the

largest recommended size chuck for the 7x?
Is the speedway as good a lathe as say the Grizzly

or HF?

Thanks for any info, cfshouse



To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



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7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@...



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