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Dean, As David said, having your elbow at about 90 degrees when operating the cross-slide is optimal. This same recommendation was made by Sparey 50 years ago, so it's probably withstood the test of

Dean, I am 5'11" and I have some minor back problems. I like the table top to be 41" from the floor. It puts things at a comfortable level for my back and my elbows are just under 90 degrees to the

What have the members here found to be a good working height for the mini-lathes (bed height) ? I'm considering using the lower half of a roll-away tool box, or something similar. Any comments? Dean

More sites: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbymachineshopfiles?yguid=105096443 http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/homepage.htm http://www.mini-lathe.com/Default.htm

For most stuff, a well sharpened HSS tool gives the best results. However, there's a lot to be said for the convenience of a pre-ground carbide tool. HF sells a small insert style set of holders, the

<kf4zgz@n...> wrote: HSS is good for most turning. I only recently used a carbide cutter for the first time with little difference, but I'm not very experienced. Of course, you have to grind the HSS

Matt, There are lots of books out there. Check your library first if you want to save some money! Here's a link to an onsite selection of good books on machining.

bflint@... mumbled: Speaking of Army docs, read this quick page, and then download anything you ever thought you wanted asap before it all disappears...

Hi gang! I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and learning a lot....now fer some info. 1- What type of tool is best for what job? considerations: cost, main material is plastic (PVC), some

Neil, Yep, been here almost 6 years. You? That link you posted for the other manual is chapter 7 of the same one that we're just getting the index for on the 7x10 group! I see that we can all go right

bflint@... scribbled: Same thing I'm getting. See my prev email for another good doc. Anyway, I notice from your email that you're an Austinite as well. Woo-hoo! Cheers, -Neil.

roylowenthal scribbled: Really? ...you should join some of the other lists I'm on :-) I get an index and TOC on the first link, and I've joined the latter to get access, so hopefully will get that

Frank Hoose scribbled: Only prob here is that the inside of the bezel is also an aesthetic part. Cheers, -Neil.

Thanks for the links. Is the full manual available on the 7x10 site? All I see with your link below are the index and the table of contents. <roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

I think we're reaching the readability limit for interspersed replies! There's a machining manual here: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x10minilathe/files/USAR%20Machinist% 20Manual%20TC%209-524/ and

I recently made a housing for a small halogen reflector lamp that is very similar to your plan - including the threaded bezel. You can hold the bezel or the tubing from the inside by extending the

Hey Roy, Thanks for the info. Comments interspersed below... I'll assume this is one of the cutting tools available for a lathe. After much thought, I've decided to get away from the threads and make

Dean, I also like the inch calibration on the Micro-Mark which was my first choice, but cannot see any justification for the price difference, and agree with comments by bflint. If I were looking to

I have the Micromark 7X14 and am very happy with it. The size fills the problem of "too small" or "Too big", it fits right in the middle. If you bought a basic 7x12 and eventually wanted to add some

Dean, True inch by itself is not worth the price difference. You can get an inch conversion kit for a Homier for a lot less than $250! Micro Mark sells a kit for 7x lathes for $70. Item number 82545