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I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get

Roy: I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to be removed from each surface, especially when quasi machining in

I think this a case of one gets what one pays for. There are some nice German lathes of a similar size but four to five times the price, at least in the UK. For many hobbyist buying cheap and getting

A milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the same

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this task! Nick Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts:

Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts: http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/vault/Members/RickKruger/Tailstock/BaseMod/MillingBase.html --- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy: Should the material be removed from the base or the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will require setting either piece accurately in all three planes prior to cutting. How should the

My choice would be cutting on the tailstock. A number of people have found that the tailstock machining is not parallel to the bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct errors without having

Good Afternoon All: Finally got most kinks out of my alignment problems with replacement parts from Homier. Headstock, saddle, cross-slide and compound assemblies were replaced. Accuracy is

Rick's got a great idea. The same thought occurred to me when I was last making a backing plate. Maybe I'll try that on this next one. Here's a link for those who may wonder what were talking about:

Frank, I haven't made by backing plate yet either, but I have some materials for it. I have a nice 1" thick piece of 5" diameter 12L14 that I am going to use. I read about Rick Kruger's adjustable

Hi, Flint. I bought the 5" chuck, but have not had time yet to make the backing plate. For those who are interested, the following link has lots of info on chuck options for the minilathe, and a link

If anyone is interested, Homier will be in Burlington, NC Jan.30-Feb 2 at the National Guard Armory ( I think thats where.) Matt

CFSHOUSE: I have a 7x12 (old version Homier). The current Homier and Grizzly are pretty much the same unit. Several of us with this lathe have recently bought a 5" 3 jaw chuck from J&L Industrial, on

Hi, I am debating on which lathe to buy the 7x12 or 9x20 and was wondering what the largest cap. that a 4 jaw chuck will hold in either of these 2 lathes? I think that the 7x will be large enough

Very nice, John. I love the camlock tailstock - it's a huge timesaver and just a lot more pleasant to work with than the wrench & nut arrangement. I checked out your website & noticed the info on

Hi Frank, Thanks for the comment. Sorry I wasn't clear about the handle location. I did put the handle in the position shown on your site - it seems more convenient there - but used Rick's mechanism

As long as it is one of the new Homiers with 6 holes in the spindle it is a direct fit. Some of the early Homiers only have 3 holes in the spindle.

Should fit just fine, they're essentially the same machine with a different paint job. If your Homier doesn't have 6 holes in the spindle, you'll have to drill them - the HF 4-jaw chuck mounts with 4

Does anyone know if the 4-jaw chuck from HF..priced at $49.99... fits the Speedway 7x12 from Homier? Believe it or not, the local HF store has them...yes them, several in stock! And the faceplate.