¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

  1. 7x12MiniLathe
  2. Messages
Expanded Topics Messages
Date
Re: circuit board diagram

AnaLog Services, Inc.
 

Mike:

You can do it just fine. I struggled thru it years ago with no ill effects. It is just a matter of keeping track of the changes you make, and making logical iterations till it is as good as is practicable.

Syd

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Taglieri
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 3:17 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram


I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea.
Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all
the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque
and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they
gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor
also?)

I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read
here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing
it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who
knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:
> Hi Ian,
>
> I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new
> board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's
> strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could
> just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he
> actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix
>
> it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway.
>
> The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with
>
> most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only
> experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR.
> Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin
>
> blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three
>
> for the changeover contact set.
>
> John
>
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
> <ian.fletcher@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off
>
> the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any
>
> damage to the board or components apart from what looks like
> mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked
> HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage
>
> convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and
> unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what
> they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are
> they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes
>
> are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board
> would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian
> > -----Original Message-----
> > >From: born4something <ajs@...>
> > >Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
> > >To: 7x12minilathe@...
> > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
> >
> > > Hi Ian,
> > Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
> > > resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
>
> > > current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense
>
> at
> > > half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
> > > something else failed too.
> > > John
> > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
> > > <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?,??1 so if
> that is
> > > all that is wrong I shall have saved ?,??84 !! Thanks for your
> > > interest and support. Ian
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > >From: born4something <ajs@>
> > > > >Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
> > > > >To: 7x12minilathe@...
> > > > >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Ian,
> > > > > 66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with
>
> that
> > > > > space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
>
> > > prefix
> > > > > as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there
>
> is
> > > no
> > > > > prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
>
> > > 0.66
> > > > > ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those
> little
> > > dots
> > > > > that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
> > > photocopying
> > > > > stuff!
> > > > > Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect
> quite a
> > > > > reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as
>
> the
> > > > > surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as
> low
> > > as
> > > > > that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac,
> depending
> > > on
> > > > > your model.
> > > > > John
> > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks
> <andyf1108@>
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.
> Not
> > > sure
> > > > > about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in
> plus or
> > > > > minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance
> value).
> > > > > However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68
> ohms
> > > is,
> > > > > though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical
> markings,
> > > and
> > > > > check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of
>
> 33
> > > ohm
> > > > > ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
>
> > > it's
> > > > > probably close enough).
> > > > > > As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
> > > > > somewhere, get the next size up.
> > > > > > I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it
> was
> > > > > something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
> > > > > > Andy
> > > > > > ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
> > > > > > Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
>
> > > with a
> > > > > dead circuit
> > > > > > board. A new board will cost ?,??85 so I am looking to
> repair
> > > it. The
> > > > > only
> > > > > > fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair,
> which
> > > is
> > > > > > marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I
> assume it
> > > is
> > > > > a
> > > > > > creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or
> can
> > > give
> > > > > me the
> > > > > > specification of the part. Thanks Ian
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > > > New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive
> > > emailing.
> > > > > Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play
> games
> > > and
> > > > > win prizes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to check out for small
> mills and lathes.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: circuit board diagram

Michael Taglieri
 

I'm beginning to think boosting Rabid's business isn't such a bad idea.
Uncle Rabid, how much would you charge to take my controller, beef up all
the crap circuit-board parts and tweak the pots for maximum safe torque
and minimum safe speed, i.e, the way the Chinese would have done if they
gave a shit? (And do you need just the controller box, or my motor
also?)

I'm normally an extremely do-it-yourself kind of guy, but the more I read
here about adjusting your controller at home, the less sure I am of doing
it right without frying something. I'd rather let someone do it who
knows how and stick to the machining that I'm good at.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Mon, 02 Apr 2007 12:26:17 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Hi Ian,

I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new
board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's
strangely generous with his advice around here given that he could
just play his cards close and boost his business. I think he
actually likes being helpful! If he can't talk you through he'll fix

it for you for a pretty reasonable fee anyway.

The other reason for running things past Uncle is that he deals with

most (all?) the variants on these controllers. Most of us only
experience one or two of them. Some are FET based and others SCR.
Some use relays and others don't. Mine has no relays but those 5-pin

blocks are sounding like 24V coil relays. Two for the coil and three

for the changeover contact set.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@...> wrote:

Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off
the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any

damage to the board or components apart from what looks like
mechanical damage to one of the two square yellow blocks marked
HR54H-S-DC24V which seem to have 5 legs, which I take to be voltage

convertors? As you can see although capable of soldering and
unsoldering small components I am not always able to identify what
they are!! If I do need to bite the bullet and buy a new board are
they all the same from different manufacturers? I know Clarke lathes

are more expensive that others and wondered if the circuit board
would be cheaper from other makers. Thanks Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...>
Date: Sun Apr 01 08:02:37 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
> Just a thought. Might not be what you want to hear. If only one
resistor is burnt out and they are in parallel as a 0.33 ohm for
current sensing then the machine should run, but overload sense
at
half load. So either BOTH resistors have failed or there is
something else failed too.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ian Fletcher
<ian.fletcher@> wrote:

Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ????1 so if
that is
all that is wrong I shall have saved ????84 !! Thanks for your
interest and support. Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@>
Date: Fri Mar 30 08:07:03 GMT 2007
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram
Hi Ian,
66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with
that
space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the
prefix
as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there
is
no
prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely
0.66
ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those
little
dots
that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when
photocopying
stuff!
Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect
quite a
reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as
the
surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as
low
as
that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac,
depending
on
your model.
John
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks
<andyf1108@>
wrote:

Looks as though it might be: 5W = 5 watts, R66 = 66 ohm.
Not
sure
about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in
plus or
minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance
value).
However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68
ohms
is,
though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical
markings,
and
check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of
33
ohm
ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms,
it's
probably close enough).
As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin or
somewhere, get the next size up.
I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it
was
something simple like a short circuit caused by swarf.
Andy
ftr1d <ian.fletcher@> wrote:
Hi, I have just purchased a 240 volt Clarke 300m
with a
dead circuit
board. A new board will cost ????85 so I am looking to
repair
it. The
only
fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair,
which
is
marked 5WR 66J and is in R1 position on the board. I
assume it
is
a
creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or
can
give
me the
specification of the part. Thanks Ian






---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive
emailing.
Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play
games
and
win prizes.







Be sure to check out for small
mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: Control Board Ratings

 

G'day Ed.

The control boards have a current limit adjustment which sets the
maximum current which can be fed to the motor. I only have circuit
details of the board in my lathe (As available off the board
manufacturer's web site.) so I don't know how the current limit
function is achieved on other boards. I just know it is there from
articles about adjusting the minimum speed an earlier lathes.
Current limiting is necessary to prevent overheating of the motors,
inadvertent fuse blowing and demagnetisation of the field magnets.
As I said the board on my lathe is good for 6 amps (12 amps with
additional heatsink) so it is able to supply the motor without
limitation.
I am hoping Jim RabidWolfe can give some insight into what other types
of board can do.

Some of the boards do use pulse width modulation much as I imagine is
used by the stepper motor drive circuit. I many ways this is a more
modern technique than SCR phase control as used on my board. Your
stepper motor pulses would have a comparatively high voltage and short
duration to get the speed of response.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


Ian - So what does this mean - the board automatically limits current
to what it's set at? Is this similar to a 'chopper' circuit? The
control board I built for my CNC router allows me to set the current
for my stepper motors and run them at much higher voltages than
they're rated for.
Ed
Re: Control Board Ratings

 

BTW I fitted the "correct" Horsepower resitor to my control board
last night and now have adjusted it for 3.5 amps stall current. When
the stall load is applied the current rises to 4.5 amps then
immediately swings back to 3.5 amps.
Ian - So what does this mean - the board automatically limits current
to what it's set at? Is this similar to a 'chopper' circuit? The
control board I built for my CNC router allows me to set the current
for my stepper motors and run them at much higher voltages than
they're rated for.
Ed
Flickr Groups

Mike Payson
 

I wanted to let everyone know about three Flickr groups I've created:





Flickr has a number of advantages over the Yahoo photo page since it
has virtually unlimited storage & a very useful annotation feature
(roll your mouse over the photo at

to see what I mean). Photos can also be tagged so they can be
searched. For example, searching for minimill and beltdrive would find
the above photo and the others in the series.

The groups are public, so anyone can browse the photos, but you must
join the group to post photos to it. Not to mention, no more having to
login to Yahoo just to look at a photo!

Flickr is owned by Yahoo, the same username & password that you use to
login to Yahoo groups will work for it as well. I encourage everyone
to join whichever groups apply to you!
Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"

taurokm3
 

You are right, A gun barrel is hard to drill. I would love to be able
to buy a deep hole rig and the bits, but if I could afford that, I
wouldn't need to ask questions. Not to mention, it would not fit in
my upstairs spare bed-room turned machine shop. I am in the process
of building a rifling machine, which will only ream and rifle. I am
debating trying to build a tiny hook cutter, or to make a stepped
rifling reamer. The reamer is a tad more complicated, but at this
small size, probably a better choice than a tiny hook cutter. BTW are
you a Lilja from the Lilja barrel folks?
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Pete Lilja" <plilja@...> wrote:

A gun barrel is not an easy thing to drill accurately. Some rather
specialized machinery is utilized.

Granted yours is a short barrel but take a look around here for some
ideas as to how they're made:

Specifically look here:


It is my understanding that a gun drill is a special lathe with a
hollow drill (not a twist bit by any means) that floods the cutting
edge with lots of oil for lubrication, cooling and chip removal.

There is an awful lot of info on rifles, shooting and some on barrel
making on the web site above. The barrel is rather critical in the
performance of the gun. I wouldn't attempt one on a mini-lathe myself.

How do you plan to rifle the barrel?


----- Original Message -----
From: taurokm3
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 5:00 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"


The material is 4140 Steel, and it will go in the chuck, it would go
through the spindle, but I have no way to clamp it to the face plate.
This is going to be a gun barrel. It is .770" diameter and 8
inches long (total), with a tip that is 1" x .950" I am thinking of
building some v notched clamps out of aluminum that would bolt to the
faceplate, with notches for the bolts so I can center the stock. It
has been suggested that I weld a standard bit to a length of drill rod
with a V and use that, I just don't know what kind of hole that would
give me.
Thanks
Doug

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@> wrote:
>
> Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the
lathe
> chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be
helpful info.
>
> The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the material fits
> in the chuck. Best situation is if the material fits through the
> spindle, of course.
>
> John
>
>
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "taurokm3" <grimjack@> wrote:
> >
> > Any one have any thoughts on the best way to go about a deep hole
> > without buying a deep hole rig? I am currently experimenting
with a
> > home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and I
want to
> > mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twist
> > drill. I know it will need cleared frequently, and a lot of lube.
> > BTW, I am using oil hardening drill rod for the bit. Any one
have any
> > other ideas?
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: knurling

 

CJ, go to Then click on Premium Content.
You'll have to pay $4.95 (I think) and there you will find an
excellent education on the knurling. I paid for unlimited access to
the Premium Content because it is a wonder source of both instrucitons
and projects. Also, the free portion of that Web site provides about
the best education on the mini-lathe there is anywhere.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cjwires" <cjwarchitects@...> wrote:

hi, I am a new "enthusiast" to the mini machine world. Can anyone
point me to some basic
info about how to use a knurling tool on the mini lathe? thanks, CJ
Re: knurling

 

See the 7x12 Files section, FAQ which has a basic overview in the
section on Knurling. That may get you going, if not post back with
specific questions.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "cjwires" <cjwarchitects@...> wrote:

hi, I am a new "enthusiast" to the mini machine world. Can anyone
point me to some basic
info about how to use a knurling tool on the mini lathe? thanks, CJ
Free Shipping from Enco

 

I just got this email from Enco and thought I'd share it...
Ed

Hi Metalworking Professional,

Today through April 30th, get Free UPS Shipping* when you purchase $50
or more in merchandise from Enco.

Take advantage of this exclusive offer by entering WBARN7 in the promo
code box on the shopping cart page at use-enco.com, or mention the
code when you call 800-USE-ENCO and speak to a friendly sales
associate. Hurry, this offer expires Monday, April 30th, 2007, so act
today!
Control Board Ratings

 

G'day Jim, et al

Jim I look to your comments on the current capacities of the various
control boards used in the 7x lathes. I am posting on the group
because the outcome of the discussion effects others on the group.

For my lathe this is not a concern, the KB Electronics board fitted
has capacity for motors up to 1.0HP or can supply 9 amps. KB advised
me that my 400W (180Volt) motor with full load current of 2.2 amps
can have a current limit setting of 3.5 amps

HOWEVER, other control boards may not be so generaously rated and
some recent correspondence implies that the boards are limiting the
available current to the motors. In that the motors have an
overcurrent capacity of up to 2 times the full load current it seems
unlikely to me that the SCRs on FETs would be so minimally rated that
more than full load current can be supplied. (Making gibes
about "Chinese Horse Power" is not helpful).

BTW I fitted the "correct" Horsepower resitor to my control board
last night and now have adjusted it for 3.5 amps stall current. When
the stall load is applied the current rises to 4.5 amps then
immediately swings back to 3.5 amps.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
Re: Database of past messages

 

G'day Patrice, et al.

I have just looked ate the "Data Base" web site; it contains
excellent material.
Thanks for letting it be known.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "borenson444" <strempe4@...>
wrote:

Thanks all for the replies. I am glad to know that this could help.

Ian, the database (loose use of the term) is located on my personal
website for ease of use. Here is the addy:



It is HTML based for ease of use and downloading (Yahoo is great but
sadly a little lacking in this department ;-).

I'll wait for the ok from the owner of this group.

Thanks again

Patrice
knurling

 

hi, I am a new "enthusiast" to the mini machine world. Can anyone point me to some basic
info about how to use a knurling tool on the mini lathe? thanks, CJ
Re: Database of past messages

 

Thanks all for the replies. I am glad to know that this could help.

Ian, the database (loose use of the term) is located on my personal
website for ease of use. Here is the addy:



It is HTML based for ease of use and downloading (Yahoo is great but
sadly a little lacking in this department ;-).

I'll wait for the ok from the owner of this group.

Thanks again

Patrice
Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"

 

The best description I've seen for accurately drilling a deep hole was
posted by Peter S in the following thread:


In case that link doesn't work, go here:


And search for: Drilling a Long Straight Hole

The post by PeterS on page 2 of the thread has the info. If you can't
find it write to me via email and I'll send it.

This approach will need to be adapted for the smaller hole you're
drilling but this should be possible. I believe you could make and
use D bits rather than purchase special reamers, a cost vs time tradeoff.

John






--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "taurokm3" <grimjack@...> wrote:

The material is 4140 Steel, and it will go in the chuck, it would go
through the spindle, but I have no way to clamp it to the face plate.
This is going to be a gun barrel. It is .770" diameter and 8
inches long (total), with a tip that is 1" x .950" I am thinking of
building some v notched clamps out of aluminum that would bolt to the
faceplate, with notches for the bolts so I can center the stock. It
has been suggested that I weld a standard bit to a length of drill rod
with a V and use that, I just don't know what kind of hole that would
give me.
Thanks
Doug

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@> wrote:

Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the lathe
chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be helpful
info.

The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the material fits
in the chuck. Best situation is if the material fits through the
spindle, of course.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "taurokm3" <grimjack@> wrote:

Any one have any thoughts on the best way to go about a deep hole
without buying a deep hole rig? I am currently experimenting with a
home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and I
want to
mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twist
drill. I know it will need cleared frequently, and a lot of
lube.
BTW, I am using oil hardening drill rod for the bit. Any one
have any
other ideas?
Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"

andrew franks
 

Somehow, I thought there was some significance to a hole that was just under .22! There's a bit of amateur barrel-making advice at yarchive.net/metal/barrel-drilling.html (Google "gun barrel boring" if that doesn't work).
I once went round the BSA (Birmingham Small Arms) factory here in the UK, to see how their Martini action .22 target rifles were made. At the end of the barrel production line there was an old guy equipped with a couple of wooden blocks, a hammer and a convenient window. His job was to straighten the the things up after all the machining, and he did it well - my 1960's model still shoots better than I can.
Andy

taurokm3 <grimjack@...> wrote:
The material is 4140 Steel, and it will go in the chuck, it would go
through the spindle, but I have no way to clamp it to the face plate.
This is going to be a gun barrel. It is .770" diameter and 8
inches long (total), with a tip that is 1" x .950" I am thinking of
building some v notched clamps out of aluminum that would bolt to the
faceplate, with notches for the bolts so I can center the stock. It
has been suggested that I weld a standard bit to a length of drill rod
with a V and use that, I just don't know what kind of hole that would
give me.
Thanks
Doug

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the lathe
chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be helpful info.

The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the material fits
in the chuck. Best situation is if the material fits through the
spindle, of course.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "taurokm3" <grimjack@> wrote:

Any one have any thoughts on the best way to go about a deep hole
without buying a deep hole rig? I am currently experimenting with a
home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and I want to
mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twist
drill. I know it will need cleared frequently, and a lot of lube.
BTW, I am using oil hardening drill rod for the bit. Any one have any
other ideas?





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail is the world's favourite email. Don't settle for less, sign up for your freeaccount today.
Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"

 

A gun barrel is not an easy thing to drill accurately. Some rather specialized machinery is utilized.

Granted yours is a short barrel but take a look around here for some ideas as to how they're made:

Specifically look here:


It is my understanding that a gun drill is a special lathe with a hollow drill (not a twist bit by any means) that floods the cutting edge with lots of oil for lubrication, cooling and chip removal.

There is an awful lot of info on rifles, shooting and some on barrel making on the web site above. The barrel is rather critical in the performance of the gun. I wouldn't attempt one on a mini-lathe myself.

How do you plan to rifle the barrel?

----- Original Message -----
From: taurokm3
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 5:00 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"


The material is 4140 Steel, and it will go in the chuck, it would go
through the spindle, but I have no way to clamp it to the face plate.
This is going to be a gun barrel. It is .770" diameter and 8
inches long (total), with a tip that is 1" x .950" I am thinking of
building some v notched clamps out of aluminum that would bolt to the
faceplate, with notches for the bolts so I can center the stock. It
has been suggested that I weld a standard bit to a length of drill rod
with a V and use that, I just don't know what kind of hole that would
give me.
Thanks
Doug

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:
>
> Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the lathe
> chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be helpful info.
>
> The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the material fits
> in the chuck. Best situation is if the material fits through the
> spindle, of course.
>
> John
>
>
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "taurokm3" <grimjack@> wrote:
> >
> > Any one have any thoughts on the best way to go about a deep hole
> > without buying a deep hole rig? I am currently experimenting with a
> > home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and I want to
> > mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twist
> > drill. I know it will need cleared frequently, and a lot of lube.
> > BTW, I am using oil hardening drill rod for the bit. Any one have any
> > other ideas?
> >
>
Re: Database of past messages

 

G'day Patrice

Sounds a good idea. BUT ihave looked on the Southbend10k group and
can't find the data base, where is it?

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "borenson444" <strempe4@...>
wrote:

Hi

I am a Southbend lathe owner that created a database of past
messages
for the Southbend groups a while ago. Since the resource seems to be
useful, I thought I'd maybe try and add one or two new ones.
Metalwork
being my hobby, this group seems interesting.

So I am asking permission from the administrator as well as from
members.

I hope that this message will be moderated to see if it's ok as I
would not want to post something I am not supposed to.

Thanks for your time.

Patrice
Re: Deep Hole .218 x 8"

taurokm3
 

The material is 4140 Steel, and it will go in the chuck, it would go
through the spindle, but I have no way to clamp it to the face plate.
This is going to be a gun barrel. It is .770" diameter and 8
inches long (total), with a tip that is 1" x .950" I am thinking of
building some v notched clamps out of aluminum that would bolt to the
faceplate, with notches for the bolts so I can center the stock. It
has been suggested that I weld a standard bit to a length of drill rod
with a V and use that, I just don't know what kind of hole that would
give me.
Thanks
Doug

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

Are you drilling this hole into material that can be held in the lathe
chuck? Material dimensions and the material type would be helpful info.

The technique is straight forward (but tedious) if the material fits
in the chuck. Best situation is if the material fits through the
spindle, of course.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "taurokm3" <grimjack@> wrote:

Any one have any thoughts on the best way to go about a deep hole
without buying a deep hole rig? I am currently experimenting with a
home made drill, .175 x 11" shank with a .218 x 1" head, and I want to
mill it to a flat on top and bottom, then sharpen it like a twist
drill. I know it will need cleared frequently, and a lot of lube.
BTW, I am using oil hardening drill rod for the bit. Any one have any
other ideas?
Re: Database of past messages

 

Two thumbs up....
I think it would be a great addition to the group
cheers

----- Original Message -----
From: borenson444
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 12:28 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Database of past messages


Hi

I am a Southbend lathe owner that created a database of past messages
for the Southbend groups a while ago. Since the resource seems to be
useful, I thought I'd maybe try and add one or two new ones. Metalwork
being my hobby, this group seems interesting.

So I am asking permission from the administrator as well as from members.

I hope that this message will be moderated to see if it's ok as I
would not want to post something I am not supposed to.

Thanks for your time.

Patrice
Re: Database of past messages

Jeff Demand
 

Patrice,

Just a member here, but it sounds like a FINE idea considering the lack
of Yahoo search capabilities.

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 4/11/2007 at 4:28 PM borenson444 wrote:

Hi

I am a Southbend lathe owner that created a database of past messages
for the Southbend groups a while ago. Since the resource seems to be
useful, I thought I'd maybe try and add one or two new ones. Metalwork
being my hobby, this group seems interesting.

So I am asking permission from the administrator as well as from members.

I hope that this message will be moderated to see if it's ok as I
would not want to post something I am not supposed to.

Thanks for your time.

Patrice
-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-
101261 - 101280 of 120321