Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- 7x12MiniLathe
- Messages
Search
|
Re: Shim Screw Tool Post (SSTP)
Hi, Rance. Aluminum (aluminium) is strong, but it has been my experience that threaded holes are easily stripped or deformed with twisting motions. Steel would probably be best. As for the stability, try using a shimming block against the inside vertical surface of the tool, between it and the tool post. Good luck, Ron.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
---- rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Thanks Ron, and to Clint for posting the pics. Ron, others, would you think that al. would be sufficient for this or |
|
Re: Advice Sought for New User
Jim
If you are more interested in having the parts you describe instead of learning and playing with a lathe, you might do well to consider www.emachineshop.com. They have a small software program to download that allows you to make a sketch that gets quoted. You can experiment with a variety of manufacturing techniques, materials, quantities, tolerances, etc. to see what each option would cost. You can do all of this before you submit it to them for manufacture. You can also email them about other manufacturing options that you may not be aware of.
As others have said, the learning curve and cost of additional tooling are both fairly steep - worth it, mind you, if that is what you want to do, but otherwise maybe not the best approach. Jim nicipi <nicipi@...> wrote: First, thanks for all your feedback Mike, John, Ian and Mike - you guys have added a lot to my sense of what's involved in this endeavor. I should at least clarify my tolerances. The wall thickness can actually be anywhere between 16thou and 32thou, and every one that I make can be in that range (don't all need to be identical); the only restriction here is that it still be flarable. Also, the thickness should be relative to the 0.437" outer diameter of the main part of the tube (the 0.437" can be plus/minus 5thou or maybe even 10thou). It is important that the 0.625" "outward rolled-like bead" be clean and rounded (a picture would really help here - I have a photo and a schematic but don't know how to share it with you guys). Otherwise, the surfaces don't need to be perfect, so for example, as John points out, the inside of the tube can be done with just drill/bore (if I'm using the right wording). What I first need to do is make sure I understand the procedural options here. Each of you guys have added something unique to try, and I've been reading your instructions over and over. What's just now becoming a little clearer to me are things like what does the tailstock do, what are the options for supporting the piece, what are centers, etc., and most importantly, what is a mandrel and how is it used (so that I can implement Mike's technique or variant thereof - the mandrel seems to be a key here.) It certainly would be helpful to see one of these machines up close and in action. I even looked on youtube but only one video came up when I searched on "mini-lathe" and it wasn't very enlightening. Nicipi |
|
Re: Shim Screw Tool Post (SSTP)
Thanks Ron, and to Clint for posting the pics.
I went to the local scrap yard (for the 1st time) and found a plethora of alum. scraps. I got 2' of 1.5" bar stock and a 6"x1" square plate for starters. I'm gonna be going back there often. :) I'll go ahead and fine-tune my shimming for this first tool but the first thing I want to do is to build a new tool post as I've described. Ron, others, would you think that al. would be sufficient for this or does it have to be steel? The toolpost that comes with the 8x12 seems huge. I would think that an alum. one of the same dimensions would be fine. Also Ron, did you have any problems with the mounted tool bit twisting while using your set screw configuration? Clint had expressed concern of rigidity. Rance --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ronald Durbin" <trainguy_347@...> wrote: sisters call them) comming up from the bottom. To adjust, just undo thebut once the height is achieved, all is well. Great drawings, by theway!. Ron. |
|
Re: circuit board diagram
Ian Fletcher
Thanks for advice, resistors ordered at cost of ?1 so if that is all that is wrong I shall have saved ?84 !! Thanks for your interest and support. Ian
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: born4something <ajs@...> Hi Ian, |
|
Re: Tail Stock Cam Lock Kit installed!
Victoria Welch
On Friday 30 March 2007, born4something wrote:
Hi Vikki,Comparatively I was lucky, all I had was a goopy pile in the tailstock and some spatter on the drill press table! Next time I will remember that. One has to be so careful about using fluids around spinning things here and the less of it the better! My face plate is still in the bag with the red goo, I'm very glad you told me this story before I got to it :-)! Take care, Vikki. -- Victoria Welch, WV9K/7 The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903) |
|
Re: Tail Stock Cam Lock Kit installed!
Victoria Welch
On Friday 30 March 2007, rancerupp wrote:
TO help contain the dry dust, put a magnet in a baggie and locate itDuhhh, I clean up the lathe when I do magnetic stuff with a magnet in a sandwich baggie turned inside out, just turn it rightside out, seal and toss. Why didn't I think of that here? Sometimes we're slow :-). Thanks for the pointer / refresher / reminder :-)! Also, on the cam lock, I did put a washer under the quill lock lever to move it back a bit from the cam lock lever. It was getting in the way after all. Thanks & take care, Vikki. -- Victoria Welch, WV9K/7 Some people are like a Slinky ... not really good for anything, but you still can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. --Unknown |
|
Re: When is a Sieg not a Sieg?
Hi Ian,
You referenced the 2 locknuts on the compound feed when you were talking about the locking grub screw in the end of your leed screw last week. I was mystified but figured I understood the leedscrew bit so let the compound reference go through to the keeper. Now I understand! John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...> wrote: on the compound feed screw to provide adjustment of the bearingshafts are 10mm diameter.turn up a bush, 10mm internal and 12mm external make a saw cut alongthe bush. I can cross drill and tap the dial 6mm (as per my existingFor the componud I can make a similar bush but with a collar at thedivisions are a pain, you have to calculate for evey adjustment. |
|
Re: When is a Sieg not a Sieg?
G'day all.
My machine may be a Real Bull, which may explain many of my posts! More variations. The RBM machine (probably mine) has two lock nuts on the compound feed screw to provide adjustment of the bearing backlash??? They bear on the dial and so effect that as well. This also may explain why the 50 division dials I bought from LMS don't fit. The internal diameter is 12mm whilst my feedscrew shafts are 10mm diameter. The fix will not be difficult. For the cross slide I intend to turn up a bush, 10mm internal and 12mm external make a saw cut along the bush. I can cross drill and tap the dial 6mm (as per my existing dial) and use a set screw to adjust the friction with the shaft. For the componud I can make a similar bush but with a collar at the inboard end. The dial can also be cross drilled and also have a recess for the collar of the bush bored out, the existing lock nut can press against the outboard end of the bush. Why the 50 div dials? because I work in metric and the Thou divisions are a pain, you have to calculate for evey adjustment. Please join the game of "spot the difference." One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian |
|
blown fuses
Hi all,
I have the 7x14 Mini Lathe with the digital readout. I had cause to change over to the metal gears and put new bearings in as well. My big question is now that I have it all back together the machine keeps blowing the fuse when I turn on the power. The gear box is not stiff, the motor and box turn over by hand and I color coded all the wires before I pulled them out so I could make sure they went back in the right place. The yellow light still comes on, even when the fuse is blown. Have I inadvertedly blown some of the electronics in the board? Regards, Garry |
|
Re: When is a Sieg not a Sieg?
G'day John.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I believe you may be right. Thank you for your prompt response. Real Bull Machinery have a functioning web site. They have variations on the 7x12 including a CNC version. They also have two small mills on offer place a range of accesssories. HOW many clones are out there? One good turn deserves another, Regards, Ian --- In 7x12minilathe@..., johnm7@... wrote:
|
|
Re: Advice Sought for New User
G'day Nicipi.
I'm glad you are still with us. Your tolerances seem more generaous than implied by your initial description. Regarding the video/DVD. I am sure links from minilathe.com will find something. I think Frank Hoose has an instructional vidoe. See also minilathe.org.uk ,this guy has some good stuff. Try Googling "mini lathe" and "DVD" or "video". Places like Plough Books and Camden Books have books and I think you will find videos also, they handle international orders well; try eBay also. I look forward to hearing your progress. One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian your--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nicipi" <nicipi@...> wrote: be flarable. Also, the thickness should be relative to the 0.437"outer diameter of the main part of the tube (the 0.437" can be plus/minusof the tube can be done with just drill/bore (if I'm using the rightjust now becoming a little clearer to me are things like what does theare centers, etc., and most importantly, what is a mandrel and how isit used (so that I can implement Mike's technique or variant thereof -lathe" and it wasn't very enlightening. |
|
Re: When is a Sieg not a Sieg?
Jim RabidWolf
Older Homier and Cummins used 4 mm keyways.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Rabid Uncle Rabid ( ) We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills "Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done" ----- Original Message -----
From: "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 11:22 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] When is a Sieg not a Sieg? G'day all. |
|
When is a Sieg not a Sieg?
G'day all.
I recently told you of my testing of the leadscrew mechincal fuse, it works!. Yes, I damaged the 80T gear. Thankfully it is not beyond recovery, so that it is now in the tuit basket. I had previously purchased a spares kit from LMS and this morning dug the replacement 80T gwear out of the bag. Surprise! the key way is 3mm wide not 4mm as for my lathe. I know my key is 4mm because a few weeks ago I dropped my key in the swarf (on the floor I thought) No amount of grovelling could find it so I grabbed a MS tent peg and milled a new key; actually I used a file. BTW I found the key hiding under the control box this morning. I recently got an idler sleeve and key from LMS only to find tha the key on that is 3mm as is the replacement LS key I purchased. The 57T & 65T gears I purchased from LMS also have 3mm keyways whilst the gears that came with the lathe have 4mm key ways. Thankfully a file can address most of the problems. I can probably file a T profile key for the sleeve, 3mm one side and 4mm the other. The QUESTIONS:- When and how did the change occur? My lathe has similar features to the yellow Cummins, eg, square not H shaped saddle, way wipers, ball oilers, nut on RH end of lead screw, etc. Some much earlier posts commented that the yellow Cummins lathe was not made by Sieg. Have others with yellow Cummins or Chestern Conquest lathes had the same experience? The present Cummins lathe is blue and the pictures don't show the features I refer to. Have you found other dissimilarities? Maybe Chris of LMS is lurking so he could comment? Finally, why are Tuit baskets square?? One good turn deserves another. Regards. Ian |
|
Re: Advice Sought for New User
Mike Payson
Hi Nicipi,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I'm certainly not an expert. I'm only a bit more advanced then you are. It sounds like what you want to do should be well within the capabilities of the lathe. It might take you several tries to get the process down, but the nice thing about doing a bunch of the same part is you have plenty of opportunity to practice. FWIW, you might want to start with some tubing (such as ) instead of rod stock. (Or maybe not, like I said, I'm a newbie too...) Mike On 3/30/07, nicipi <nicipi@...> wrote:
First, thanks for all your feedback Mike, John, Ian and Mike - you |
|
Re: Tool post mods by "Driggars"
Clint D
Ron
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That is actually Rance's tool post mods, I just uploaded the pix for him. so, Rance gets the credit, no matter how much I would love to receive it 8-) Clint Ronald Durbin wrote: Hi, Clint. I just saw your drawings of the tool post modification in the photos section. I have done this with a smaller post, except that I used set screws (or grub screws, as our British brothers and sisters call them) comming up from the bottom. To adjust, just undo the retaining nut on top, lift up the post, back off the top screw slightly, engage (run further in) the bottom screw tightly, and replace the post as per normal. This sometimes take a few tries, but once the height is achieved, all is well. Great drawings, by the way!. Ron. |
|
Re: Advice Sought for New User
First, thanks for all your feedback Mike, John, Ian and Mike - you
guys have added a lot to my sense of what's involved in this endeavor. I should at least clarify my tolerances. The wall thickness can actually be anywhere between 16thou and 32thou, and every one that I make can be in that range (don't all need to be identical); the only restriction here is that it still be flarable. Also, the thickness should be relative to the 0.437" outer diameter of the main part of the tube (the 0.437" can be plus/minus 5thou or maybe even 10thou). It is important that the 0.625" "outward rolled-like bead" be clean and rounded (a picture would really help here - I have a photo and a schematic but don't know how to share it with you guys). Otherwise, the surfaces don't need to be perfect, so for example, as John points out, the inside of the tube can be done with just drill/bore (if I'm using the right wording). What I first need to do is make sure I understand the procedural options here. Each of you guys have added something unique to try, and I've been reading your instructions over and over. What's just now becoming a little clearer to me are things like what does the tailstock do, what are the options for supporting the piece, what are centers, etc., and most importantly, what is a mandrel and how is it used (so that I can implement Mike's technique or variant thereof - the mandrel seems to be a key here.) It certainly would be helpful to see one of these machines up close and in action. I even looked on youtube but only one video came up when I searched on "mini-lathe" and it wasn't very enlightening. Nicipi |
|
Re: Advice Sought for New User
It's well within the lathe's capabilities. The tricky part is going
to be working with the thin wall without tearing or distorting the piece. Since it's only 1" long, I'd make it in one chucking, parting the finished piece off of a length of stock. Rather than flaring it after it's made into a tube, consider machining the flare while it's made into tubing. 6 jaw chucks are ideal for working thin walled tubular pieces, the clamping force is distributed over more area than with a 3 jaw. For tubular work, collets are also convenient. Since they distribute the clamping forces over even more area, they're better than a jawed chuck. They're also more accurate than most chucks. You can solve the rechucking problem by making an adjustable backplate for the chuck, ideal with a 4" chuck, since you need a separate backplate to mount it. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nicipi" <nicipi@...> wrote: part that is essentially a tube (aluminum alloy 6061) that has an outsidewant to be able to flare the end when I'm finished, so my first questionis, by milling the aluminum on a mini-lathe, will that ruin the temperof the alloy such that it can't be flared afterward? My secondquestion is this: I also want to start from a stock of outside diameter of0.625 inches, reason being that I want one end (not to be flared) to beleft with a "bead" of a diameter 0.625 inches. Can these lathes do thiskind of thing, that is, make tube that one would get as if you had amachine that form an "outward rolled end"? |
|
Re: Advice Sought for New User
G'day nicipi.
You have some sound adice from Mike & John. The limitation to what you want to do will be the strength of the material and your skill. I take it by your question that you may not have used a lathe before. Having a specific project is a great excuse for increasing your retinue of tools, I should know, my shop is full of them! If you have this project as an excuse to buy a lathe which you've always wanted, then go ahead. Be prepared to spend time gaining and improving your skill, this is the best part, very good for your self esteem. IMHO for every hour spent improving the lathe to get better outcomes, 10 hours will be spent improving your personal skills. The scrap bucket is a great invention! The problems you will face with what you propose include: Distortion of the 16thou walls of the tube as you take the final cut, the tube wall may even tear. If made from tube then distortion in the 3 jaw chuck. Mike's proposal with the mandrell will help over come these problems. For me I would make the part out of bar and drill and bore the hole to depth. Insert a mandell in the outer end to support the work on the tailstock then turn down to the diamemters you require. You will have to experiment; it may be better turning the 0.625" diameter at the TS end. Also doing the reduction of diameter to the 16thou wall thichness may be better as one full depth cut with a sery slow feed rate. TOLERANCE: No! I'm not talking about putting up with my comments! No machined part is every exactly the same dimension, CNC stuff may be close, but never identical. You have given us dimensions but have not said what the tolerances are. That is, the range of internal diameter, wall thickness, collar diameter and lengths. Be warned. IMHO, as a newbie, you will be lucky to get within 3thou on any dimension. By now you will have either decided this is not for you or become excited at the prospect of increasing the range of your skills. As an alternative I am sure there are a number of skilled minilathe owners with some time to spend to make or try to make these parts for you for some recompence. As I say. One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian |
|
Tool post mods by "Driggars"
Hi, Clint. I just saw your drawings of the tool post modification in
the photos section. I have done this with a smaller post, except that I used set screws (or grub screws, as our British brothers and sisters call them) comming up from the bottom. To adjust, just undo the retaining nut on top, lift up the post, back off the top screw slightly, engage (run further in) the bottom screw tightly, and replace the post as per normal. This sometimes take a few tries, but once the height is achieved, all is well. Great drawings, by the way!. Ron. |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss