开云体育

Hi Rob:
I am also a newbie. I bought a 7x12 Cummins in summer of last year.
Doug Briney: The Home Machinists's Handbook, McGraw-Hill, available at Amazon.com, very basic and geared towards the beginner
South Bend Lathe Works: How to Run a Lathe, Lindsay Publications, available at The Little Machine Shop, a reedition of a 1942 South Bend Lathe Works manual, excellent for the beginner
Frank Hoose's home page, excellent for the beginner, many photographs
I hope this helps.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas

I have one of these tool holders and I doubt that the rocker section
is a Woodruff key. It's about 40mm long and 12mm wide. I don't think
Woodruffs are that thick. It's also fairly shallow from the flat
surface to the curved portion. I think Woodruffs are much deeper than
this.

This tool holder will easily take a 1/2 inch tool bit.

John

FWIW, my usual remedy for broken taps in something I have too much tim
into to just remake:

I haven't had luck using alum, try nitric acid (it can be diluted, no
need to play around with concentrated stuff if you are not familiar
with proper acid handling procedures)

If it's a through hole, plug the bottom with some putty or other acid
proof sealer then add the acid to the top of the hole with an eye
dropper till it's full. Wait an hour or so then drain and rinse it
then see if the tap is loose enough to remove (it may have already
been reduced to a mush by then if the acid is not too weak). If it's
still tight, just keep repeating the procedure till it comes out.

If your part was aluminum, you can just go ahead with the tapping
using a new tap. If it was steel, the hole will likely be enlarged
and you will need to drill it oversize and plug it with a steel insert
(piece of rod) which can be epoxied, soldered, or press fitted in
place then re-drill and tap. If you are using solder or epoxy you
need to take the temperature of the parts operation into consideration
and select one that will work at that temperature without melting
(usually not a consideration, but something to be aware of if you're
working on gun parts or other potentially high temp stuff). You could
also thread a larger bolt into the new hole then cut/mill/turn it off
flush and re-drill and tap for the smaller size.

Concentrated nitric acid can be dangerous to work with and diluting
any concentrated acid can be dangerous (slowly add acid to water, not
water to acid, or it can explode in your face). Try to find some
already dilute acid if you are not familiar with handling concentrated
acids. A chemist should be able to prepare a dilute solution for you.

On 4/2/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:

A while back I was asking (mainly out of academic interest) about
cutting O-ring grooves. Well, I've now cut my first O-ring groove
and a very tight face-seal type groove at that. I chucked the job in
the 4-jaw and got the broken tap on centre, confirming by peeping
through the spindle with a torch to see the reverse side. I then
ground a 1/8" HSS blank to a narrow grooving tool with heaps of
relief angle on one side to allow a really tight o-ring groove
around the broken tap. I cut a groove about 3mm deep about 1mm clear
of the tap. I then took skimming cuts at that 1mm thick island
around the tap. About one thou at a time until I was perilously
close to hitting the tap. A scriber was then poked down the tap
flutes to pry the thin remaining steel back. Instead of gripping the
tap with vice grips and having it crumble further I was able to
squash the end of some 1/4" stainless tubing to make the triangular
equivalent of a socker wrench. That distributed the load across all
three flutes and with a gentle back and forth motion I soon had
movement which gradually increased until I had it turning.

What about this idea: Grind a "backwards" boring bar, then do this
procedure with the lathe in reverse. When you get to the tap, it
might unthread. If you're lucky.

Regards,
Mark
markrages@gmail
--
Most of the time,
for most of the world,
no matter how hard people work at it,
nothing of any significance happens.
-- Weinberg's Law

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

On Monday 02 April 2007, steam4ian wrote:

G'day Viki, John.

You have found the difference between cheap taps and better quality
taps.

LOL, I sure did. Watching that one tap corkscrew when trying to

start

Hi Vikki,

Don't toss those cheap sets too quickly. Apart from letting you do the
easy threads (like through sheet aluminium) it's really great to have
such a comprehensive set of sizes for clearing paint and burrs out of
threads. However, if doing any serious threads I now buy a real tap
for the job. The biggest hassle is the crossover zone between easy and
serious thread cutting late in the evening where you give in to the
temptation to use the cheapy - and spend your evenings for the rest of
the week recovering the job!

John

Hi Vikki,

Glad you didn't spontaneously freak out. That's a sign of maturity
and starting to get comfortable with your skills and ability to sort
things out.

I think you can get alum from a pharmacist. There are possibly
cheaper sources though.

That commonly used 75% thread figure is probably a bit tight for
most work if you don't need enormous strength. The last 2 taps I've
broken were on 75% or slightly greater (due to available drill
sizes). You mentioned the carbide tip jumping as it touched the
outside of the tap remnants. There's no way I was machining that
close as the tap was so brittle-hard. I'd change to a dremel based
grinding tool before working that close.

When all else fails, read up on EDM. Coming from an electronics
background I just KNOW I'll build one of those things one day.
There's a section in Machinery's Handbook giving a great rundown.
Check out www.modelenginenews.org/~modeng74/meng/edm for some
starter info too. There are quite viable plans around like
www.camtronics-cnc.com or www.build-stuff.com/EDMHowtoBook.htm
(that site seems down just now, hopefully temporarily). EDM would be
an interesting toy to play with, cutting obscure shaped holes in
impossibly difficult materials. Need to "drill" a square hole in
HSS? No problem!

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

On Sunday 01 April 2007, born4something wrote:

Hi Vikki,

Ah, the dreaded broken tap. Every break is different and you do

what

you need to do in your situation. It's always a good brain

teaser.

In aluminium and brass I'm told alum is magical.

I'm going to try to track down some alum while I am out today just

to

see if it actually works.

It sure does give one lots to think about, I'm pleased I just

started

thinking rather than freaking out about it :-) :-)! Having some

real

tools, even if smallish certainly opens a lot of doors in many

ways.

I recently broke a 4mm tap in a 1/2" deep hole in steel. Chemical
techniques weren't going to help steel in steel. Attempts to grab
the little protruding portion just made it crumble. It was a good
hard tap. Like yours, it was my ninth hole in a row and I

thought I

had the knack. They were going smoothly. Maybe the tap fatiqued

as I

was not using much force.

Going for the 75% thread it was obvious the tiny tap was grunting

down

neat the bottom of the hole. It is completely possible that the

tap

could have been fatigued but I think that the real reason was that

I

had the tap in the drill chuck mounted in the mill and was turning

the

chuck by hand. My wrist got tired and I switched hands and am

more

than a little sure I over torqued it at exactly the wrong time.

A while back I was asking (mainly out of academic interest) about
cutting O-ring grooves. Well, I've now cut my first O-ring groove
and a very tight face-seal type groove at that. I chucked the

job in

the 4-jaw and got the broken tap on centre, confirming by peeping
through the spindle with a torch to see the reverse side. I then
ground a 1/8" HSS blank to a narrow grooving tool with heaps of
relief angle on one side to allow a really tight o-ring groove
around the broken tap. I cut a groove about 3mm deep about 1mm

clear

of the tap. I then took skimming cuts at that 1mm thick island
around the tap. About one thou at a time until I was perilously
close to hitting the tap. A scriber was then poked down the tap
flutes to pry the thin remaining steel back. Instead of gripping

the

tap with vice grips and having it crumble further I was able to
squash the end of some 1/4" stainless tubing to make the

triangular

equivalent of a socker wrench. That distributed the load across

all

three flutes and with a gentle back and forth motion I soon had
movement which gradually increased until I had it turning.

Sigh, it does appear impossible to get out, I futzed with it for a

while

last night and tried several things. HSS tools just got screwed

up

trying to turn it out and using carbide there was so much jump

when the

tool contacted the remains of the tap that it accomplished

nothing :-).

I was able to remove what was in the bore with the carbide boring

bar

and the absolute slowest feed imaginable.

I finally was able to remove the raw edges on the outside with my
roomies lapidary diamond files (nasty surfaces poking out).

I could probably use the mill with one of the smallish PCB drills

to

mill out around the tap without buggering the holder too much, but

this

isn't real critical so the tap can just sit there. Other than as

a

reminder, it isn't interfering with anything.

I did have some extra features on my finished product but it was
only a tool jig and I can live with that. It had toooo much work
invested to discard.

Same here, scrap isn't really available locally so everything is

retail

priced. Worst case is that I turn it 45 degrees (eyeball, no

indexers

or anything else, but it isn't real critical, I don't think) and

remark

it for another set of holes, which I did last night.

Not sure if that helps your situation. But you can never have too
many solutions in the back of your mind!

Yes Sir, every little bit of kit that helps solve problems is

always

welcome and a great addition to the mental toolbox :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Nothing can bring you peace but the triumph of principles." --

Ralph

Waldo Emerson

If you haven't found alum, try a swimming pool/spa place; it's used
to lower pH. It's also used in gardening to lower soil pH.
The "trick" works because steel is acid soluble, aluminum is pretty
much acid resistant.

For small taps, the best thing I've found is a ball shaped carbide
rotary file, used freehand in a Foredom tool. If you carefully
attack the center, the rest of the tap can be picked out. A common
commercial answer is a "tap disintegrator" essentially a small EDM
unit. Frequently, there's a local shop that has one & may even be
reasonably priced.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Victoria Welch <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

On Sunday 01 April 2007, born4something wrote:

Hi Vikki,

Ah, the dreaded broken tap. Every break is different and you do

what

you need to do in your situation. It's always a good brain teaser.
In aluminium and brass I'm told alum is magical.

I'm going to try to track down some alum while I am out today just

to

see if it actually works.

It sure does give one lots to think about, I'm pleased I just

started

thinking rather than freaking out about it :-) :-)! Having some

real

tools, even if smallish certainly opens a lot of doors in many ways.

I recently broke a 4mm tap in a 1/2" deep hole in steel. Chemical
techniques weren't going to help steel in steel. Attempts to grab
the little protruding portion just made it crumble. It was a good
hard tap. Like yours, it was my ninth hole in a row and I thought

I

had the knack. They were going smoothly. Maybe the tap fatiqued

as I

was not using much force.

Going for the 75% thread it was obvious the tiny tap was grunting

down

neat the bottom of the hole. It is completely possible that the

tap

could have been fatigued but I think that the real reason was that

I

had the tap in the drill chuck mounted in the mill and was turning

the

chuck by hand. My wrist got tired and I switched hands and am more
than a little sure I over torqued it at exactly the wrong time.

A while back I was asking (mainly out of academic interest) about
cutting O-ring grooves. Well, I've now cut my first O-ring groove
and a very tight face-seal type groove at that. I chucked the job

in

the 4-jaw and got the broken tap on centre, confirming by peeping
through the spindle with a torch to see the reverse side. I then
ground a 1/8" HSS blank to a narrow grooving tool with heaps of
relief angle on one side to allow a really tight o-ring groove
around the broken tap. I cut a groove about 3mm deep about 1mm

clear

of the tap. I then took skimming cuts at that 1mm thick island
around the tap. About one thou at a time until I was perilously
close to hitting the tap. A scriber was then poked down the tap
flutes to pry the thin remaining steel back. Instead of gripping

the

tap with vice grips and having it crumble further I was able to
squash the end of some 1/4" stainless tubing to make the

triangular

equivalent of a socker wrench. That distributed the load across

all

three flutes and with a gentle back and forth motion I soon had
movement which gradually increased until I had it turning.

Sigh, it does appear impossible to get out, I futzed with it for a

while

last night and tried several things. HSS tools just got screwed up
trying to turn it out and using carbide there was so much jump when

the

tool contacted the remains of the tap that it accomplished

nothing :-).

I was able to remove what was in the bore with the carbide boring

bar

and the absolute slowest feed imaginable.

I finally was able to remove the raw edges on the outside with my
roomies lapidary diamond files (nasty surfaces poking out).

I could probably use the mill with one of the smallish PCB drills

to

mill out around the tap without buggering the holder too much, but

this

isn't real critical so the tap can just sit there. Other than as a
reminder, it isn't interfering with anything.

I did have some extra features on my finished product but it was
only a tool jig and I can live with that. It had toooo much work
invested to discard.

Same here, scrap isn't really available locally so everything is

retail

priced. Worst case is that I turn it 45 degrees (eyeball, no

indexers

or anything else, but it isn't real critical, I don't think) and

remark

it for another set of holes, which I did last night.

Not sure if that helps your situation. But you can never have too
many solutions in the back of your mind!

Yes Sir, every little bit of kit that helps solve problems is

always

welcome and a great addition to the mental toolbox :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Nothing can bring you peace but the triumph of principles." --

Ralph

Waldo Emerson

On Monday 02 April 2007, steam4ian wrote:

G'day Viki, John.

You have found the difference between cheap taps and better quality
taps.

LOL, I sure did. Watching that one tap corkscrew when trying to start
it was kind of amazing.

I have about three sets of "cheap taps". The other day i was
attempting to cut a 8mm thread in an SS bush. The cheap taps just
would not look at the job. Fortunately I had purshased a limited
selection of Brand name taps, not top of the range but good. I
extrated ane of the better taps from its packet and set it to work.
The job was almost effortless. Forget the cheap taps unless you want
to cut a thread in
lead. As for cheap dies, I get a better job on the lathe.

Slowly I learn :). Threading on the lathe, once so intimidating, I
don't think much about anymore (even the changing of the gears isn't as
scary as it once was :). Still haven't done internal, but that
shouldn't be too horrid either once I give it a go.

Unfortunately I also have three sets of cheap taps, but I know better
now :).

I was using a cutting oil to do this and I am not sure how much better
WD40 would have been, will get the chance to see on the next set.

I have struck it lucky with one set of truly bargain taps. A tooling
store had relocated to near my home and must have bundled eveything
together in the move and then couldn't be bothered sorting through
it. I picked up a 3/8 x 24T set of taper, plug and bottoming taps for
AUD3.00 plus some other goodies like reamers for AUD5.00.
If any one in Oz wants me to look for a specific item let me know,
you could get a bargain. There's taps and dies of odd sizes, reamer,
milling cutters (horizontal) etc.

I sure wish I knew what I needed, if I did I'd sure give you a list and
figure out how to pay for it. Reamers is something I keep seeing as
useful but so far I have yet (as far as I know :) actually needed them,
drills seem to be doing good enough for what I need (so far).

I did discover that drilling a 2.125" deep 1/2" hole (as big a bit as I
have) by working up from 1/4" in steps is a job on the lathe. Easy to
push that tailstock back, persistence pays :), with all this cranking
exercise my wrists will be in GREAT shape soon (I hope :-). Boring it
out after I got through with the 1/2" drill was exciting for some
reason, probably the first use of the boring bars and it came out well.

I must have done somebody a good turn!

Indeed you must have :). Without fighting through Seattle traffic from
hell, the only thing around here is consumer home supply places. Could
be worse and mail (net) order has been my savior, if slow (but no more
expensive with local taxes) :-).

Frustrating, but I really am having fun with this and I think that with
the pinhole filters that this may well work out. I remember the
frustrating of trying to do *anything* with metal before I started
learning about and acquiring tools for the purpose. To me it is indeed
magic :)!

Learning how to do all this is just so much fun, even the "bad times"
teach one something that makes the next one easier / better :)! Just
too damn cool :-) :-) :-) :-)!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Where the system is concerned, you're not allowed to
ask "Why?" --Unknown

On Sunday 01 April 2007, born4something wrote:

Hi Vikki,

Ah, the dreaded broken tap. Every break is different and you do what
you need to do in your situation. It's always a good brain teaser.
In aluminium and brass I'm told alum is magical.

I'm going to try to track down some alum while I am out today just to
see if it actually works.

It sure does give one lots to think about, I'm pleased I just started
thinking rather than freaking out about it :-) :-)! Having some real
tools, even if smallish certainly opens a lot of doors in many ways.

I recently broke a 4mm tap in a 1/2" deep hole in steel. Chemical
techniques weren't going to help steel in steel. Attempts to grab
the little protruding portion just made it crumble. It was a good
hard tap. Like yours, it was my ninth hole in a row and I thought I
had the knack. They were going smoothly. Maybe the tap fatiqued as I
was not using much force.

Going for the 75% thread it was obvious the tiny tap was grunting down
neat the bottom of the hole. It is completely possible that the tap
could have been fatigued but I think that the real reason was that I
had the tap in the drill chuck mounted in the mill and was turning the
chuck by hand. My wrist got tired and I switched hands and am more
than a little sure I over torqued it at exactly the wrong time.

A while back I was asking (mainly out of academic interest) about
cutting O-ring grooves. Well, I've now cut my first O-ring groove
and a very tight face-seal type groove at that. I chucked the job in
the 4-jaw and got the broken tap on centre, confirming by peeping
through the spindle with a torch to see the reverse side. I then
ground a 1/8" HSS blank to a narrow grooving tool with heaps of
relief angle on one side to allow a really tight o-ring groove
around the broken tap. I cut a groove about 3mm deep about 1mm clear
of the tap. I then took skimming cuts at that 1mm thick island
around the tap. About one thou at a time until I was perilously
close to hitting the tap. A scriber was then poked down the tap
flutes to pry the thin remaining steel back. Instead of gripping the
tap with vice grips and having it crumble further I was able to
squash the end of some 1/4" stainless tubing to make the triangular
equivalent of a socker wrench. That distributed the load across all
three flutes and with a gentle back and forth motion I soon had
movement which gradually increased until I had it turning.

Sigh, it does appear impossible to get out, I futzed with it for a while
last night and tried several things. HSS tools just got screwed up
trying to turn it out and using carbide there was so much jump when the
tool contacted the remains of the tap that it accomplished nothing :-).
I was able to remove what was in the bore with the carbide boring bar
and the absolute slowest feed imaginable.

I finally was able to remove the raw edges on the outside with my
roomies lapidary diamond files (nasty surfaces poking out).

I could probably use the mill with one of the smallish PCB drills to
mill out around the tap without buggering the holder too much, but this
isn't real critical so the tap can just sit there. Other than as a
reminder, it isn't interfering with anything.

I did have some extra features on my finished product but it was
only a tool jig and I can live with that. It had toooo much work
invested to discard.

Same here, scrap isn't really available locally so everything is retail
priced. Worst case is that I turn it 45 degrees (eyeball, no indexers
or anything else, but it isn't real critical, I don't think) and remark
it for another set of holes, which I did last night.

Not sure if that helps your situation. But you can never have too
many solutions in the back of your mind!

Yes Sir, every little bit of kit that helps solve problems is always
welcome and a great addition to the mental toolbox :-).

Thanks & take care, Vikki.
--
Victoria Welch, WV9K/7
"Nothing can bring you peace but the triumph of principles." -- Ralph
Waldo Emerson

Ian,

How did you end up with a Real Bull in OZ?
I am not aware of anyone bringing them in.
I did toy with the idea of brining them in and converting them to CNC.
Even made contact with Ben at Real Bull and swapped emails.
Then I got married and plans changed:)

I am most interested in their CNC lathe as most of the other Chinese makers don't have any CNCed yet.

Gavin

From: "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: When is a Sieg not a Sieg? THE DIFFERENCES MATTER
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2007 21:26:26 -0000

G'day Chris.
Thank you for getting back to me regarding Real Bull; as you may have
observed, I am full of it!
Seriously, it would be good if I and others could catalogue
differences as we come across them, eg key dimesions, feedscrew
diameters etc. It could save both you and your customers frustration.
Many of us have scraped together just enough for one lathe so can't
have a second machine to compare side by side, the only way we
discover changes is when buying replacement parts and finding they
have to be "addapted". I must admit it has made me hesitant to
lashout on upgrade parts.

I googled "china" "lathe" "manufacture" and came up with about 160
companies making lathes. I didn't get all the way through the list
but found at least 10 manufacturers of Mini Lathes, they were in
different provinces so I doubt they were were the same company. I
must admit in at least one case the machine was claimed by one
company but their picture showed a Real Bull logo on the control panel

It would be interesting to find where and how the design originated;
Chris, can you comment?.
I also suspect they are made for use in China and SE Asia for home
manufacturing (cottage industry) and not just for the hobby market.
They would be really good for this as thy could employ a family in
repetative small parts manufacture, better than starving. Even some
of the mini lathe parts could have been made by out workers on a mini
lathe.
An opportunity exists to aid struggling families in poverty areas of
under developed countries by providing them with a lathe. This
happens in India with sewing machines and pedal rickshaws where
charities exist to provide just such aid; they make an incredible
difference ("teach a man to fish and he will feed a village").

BTW, Thank you Chris for the service I have had from LMS and the
service LMS has provided to the craft and hobby.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

_________________________________________________________________
Join the millions of Australians using Live Search. Try live.com.au

G'day Chris.
Thank you for getting back to me regarding Real Bull; as you may have
observed, I am full of it!
Seriously, it would be good if I and others could catalogue
differences as we come across them, eg key dimesions, feedscrew
diameters etc. It could save both you and your customers frustration.
Many of us have scraped together just enough for one lathe so can't
have a second machine to compare side by side, the only way we
discover changes is when buying replacement parts and finding they
have to be "addapted". I must admit it has made me hesitant to
lashout on upgrade parts.

I googled "china" "lathe" "manufacture" and came up with about 160
companies making lathes. I didn't get all the way through the list
but found at least 10 manufacturers of Mini Lathes, they were in
different provinces so I doubt they were were the same company. I
must admit in at least one case the machine was claimed by one
company but their picture showed a Real Bull logo on the control panel

It would be interesting to find where and how the design originated;
Chris, can you comment?.
I also suspect they are made for use in China and SE Asia for home
manufacturing (cottage industry) and not just for the hobby market.
They would be really good for this as thy could employ a family in
repetative small parts manufacture, better than starving. Even some
of the mini lathe parts could have been made by out workers on a mini
lathe.
An opportunity exists to aid struggling families in poverty areas of
under developed countries by providing them with a lathe. This
happens in India with sewing machines and pedal rickshaws where
charities exist to provide just such aid; they make an incredible
difference ("teach a man to fish and he will feed a village").

BTW, Thank you Chris for the service I have had from LMS and the
service LMS has provided to the craft and hobby.

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian

There is a book called "The Amateurs Lathe" by Sparry that covers
almost every aspect of practical lathe work. It is an old book (circa
1950) but still easily available here in the UK. The other book I
would recommend is "The Amateurs workshop" by Ian Bradley. This
covers all workshop tools lathes, drilling machines,drills, taps,
shaping machines, milling, compressed air,paint spraying, soldering
and brazing. This is also old book but full of basic practical
information on workshop practice. This is also readily available in
the UK.
I hope this is useful
Kind regards
Mike
Kingsley, UK

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rroll99" <rroll99@...> wrote:

I was wondering if the group has a consensus about what would be a
good book for someone who wants to not only learn how to use a

lathe,

but also how to properly layout, cut, drill, tap, grind bits and do
other basic machine shop operations.

I just bought Frank Marlowe's "Machine Shop Essentials" and it does

a

great job of explaining terminology and showing tools and methods.

But

I'm looking for a book that has more practical tips and how-to's for
someone who is just starting to learn this craft.

I'd prefer to have a book to keep near my work bench, but I'd also
love to hear about any good web sites or downloadable files.

BTW, I bought a Homier 7x12.

Thank you,

Rob

You might try going to your local high school or Community Colleg that offers Machine Shop Technology courses, and see what books they use. Perhaps you could buy a used one, especially from a college bookstore. Good luck, Ron. Keep makin' chips!


---- rroll99 <rroll99@...> wrote:

I could not get it, either.
Thanks, Ron.


---- jumbo75007 <fullerdj@...> wrote:

Dan,

It's not you, its the web page. The img is a broken reference. Use
your imagination. It is simply a large knurled disk that is 'clamped'
to the tap. The disk is 1 1/8" diameter and 0.325 thick. The drill
chuck is slightly loosened so the user can turn the tap using the
knurled disk (ie. the Tap Disk). This gives the operator a
better 'feel' of the force turning the tap. Easier to feel how tight
it is getting. The drill chuck is used as a centering device to make
sure it goes in straight. HTH. :)

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jumbo75007" <fullerdj@...>
wrote:

Well if it is not one thing it is another..........
I now found the tap article, but the picture will not come up on my
Internet Explorer. Would some one down load the picture and send

it to

me.
Thanks,
Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas
fullerdj@...


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

Try


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Bill Kenny" <billcnc@>

wrote:

Bob,

For some reason, it is not showing up in the search. Do you

have a

more

refined link?

Thanks
Bill

Well if it is not one thing it is another..........
I now found the tap article, but the picture will not come up on my
Internet Explorer. Would some one down load the picture and send it to
me.
Thanks,
Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas
fullerdj@...

I was wondering if the group has a consensus about what would be a
good book for someone who wants to not only learn how to use a lathe,
but also how to properly layout, cut, drill, tap, grind bits and do
other basic machine shop operations.

I just bought Frank Marlowe's "Machine Shop Essentials" and it does a
great job of explaining terminology and showing tools and methods. But
I'm looking for a book that has more practical tips and how-to's for
someone who is just starting to learn this craft.

I'd prefer to have a book to keep near my work bench, but I'd also
love to hear about any good web sites or downloadable files.

BTW, I bought a Homier 7x12.

Thank you,

Rob

Try


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Bill Kenny" <billcnc@...> wrote:

Bob,

For some reason, it is not showing up in the search. Do you have a

more

refined link?

Thanks
Bill

Ian:

Mini Lathes with a rectangular carriage (as opposed to an H-shaped
carriage) are not made by SIEG. In most cases they are made by the
Yangzhou Real Bull Machine Tool Co. As you have found, there are
differences.

All the mini lathes sold by major vendors in the US are currently made
by SIEG. The "Real Bull" company seems to have better traction in other
parts of the world.

Regards,
Chris Wood

LittleMachineShop.com <>
The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini
mills.
396 W. Washington Blvd. #500, Pasadena, CA 91103
(800)981-9663 * Fax (626)797-7934


________________________________

From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of steam4ian
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 9:23 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] When is a Sieg not a Sieg?



G'day all.
I recently told you of my testing of the leadscrew mechincal fuse, it
works!. Yes, I damaged the 80T gear. Thankfully it is not beyond
recovery, so that it is now in the tuit basket.
I had previously purchased a spares kit from LMS and this morning dug
the replacement 80T gwear out of the bag. Surprise! the key way is
3mm wide not 4mm as for my lathe. I know my key is 4mm because a few
weeks ago I dropped my key in the swarf (on the floor I thought) No
amount of grovelling could find it so I grabbed a MS tent peg and
milled a new key; actually I used a file. BTW I found the key hiding
under the control box this morning.
I recently got an idler sleeve and key from LMS only to find tha the
key on that is 3mm as is the replacement LS key I purchased. The 57T
& 65T gears I purchased from LMS also have 3mm keyways whilst the
gears that came with the lathe have 4mm key ways. Thankfully a file
can address most of the problems. I can probably file a T profile key
for the sleeve, 3mm one side and 4mm the other.
The QUESTIONS:-
When and how did the change occur? My lathe has similar features to
the yellow Cummins, eg, square not H shaped saddle, way wipers, ball
oilers, nut on RH end of lead screw, etc. Some much earlier posts
commented that the yellow Cummins lathe was not made by Sieg.

Have others with yellow Cummins or Chestern Conquest lathes had the
same experience? The present Cummins lathe is blue and the pictures
don't show the features I refer to.

Have you found other dissimilarities?

Maybe Chris of LMS is lurking so he could comment?

Finally, why are Tuit baskets square??

One good turn deserves another.
Regards.
Ian

Bob,

For some reason, it is not showing up in the search. Do you have a more
refined link?

Thanks
Bill