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Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Cleaning it up)
Commercial sheet pans can be had in 18 x 26 inches, here is an example eBay # 160020141890
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-----Original Message-----
From: andyf1108@... To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Mon, 26 Mar 2007 2:06 AM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Cleaning it up) Under a baby lathe which I own, I fitted a ?2/$4 baking tray to act as a chip pan. At 14", it wouldn't be long enough for the 8x12, but I wonder if bigger ones are available for commercial bakeries. Andy Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote: Hi, The 8x12 does not come with a chip pan and HF doesn't sell one. Lathemaster has one but it is a bit on the pricey side. They do have a black splash guard (about $17...I believe) - no holes in the lathe for it however. I looked on e-Bay "stainless steel" and found many (most?) can't tell the difference between polished AL and stainless. As for the oil valves - HF does have a small pump oiler - I picked one up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it. Isn't it amazing the amount of "stuff" that comes off of the lathe - makes me wodner about the air the guys buidling it are breathing. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very end. Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with that later. I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up. I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning? One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for those? Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was installed or not. Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath it. Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning. Rance --------------------------------- Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta. --------------------------------- Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] --------------------------------- New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!
I'm not sure what I am seeing here, but I get top and bottom of theThat indicates that while you have the tailstock pretty well centred properly up and down, it is either not pointing straight at the headstock, or it is off centre. Most likely it's a bit of both. If you extend the quill further, you'll probably find that difference will drift one way or the other. Think of in in the extreme - think of what the indicator would read if the tailstock was pointing 10 degrees or so off centre. You must start by setting the tailstock straight - what John (gadgetbuilder) calls angular alignment. Then you know the error you're seeing with the DTI is all parallel alignment and you can adjust to correct it. For setting the straightness, I extend the quill about 1.5"-2", lock it down, set the indicator in the toolpost and measure along the outside body of the quill. For maintaining centre, this should be adjusted so there is no variance along the length. ---- As a side note, with most folks mini-lathes there comes a point where aligning the tailstock becomes a trade-off. Often, the tapered part of the quill is not quite concentric with the outside barrel. So you reach a point where you're deciding to go for taper straightness (better for drilling/tapping/reaming) or for barrel straightness (centre remains on centre no matter how far the quill is extended). On my minilathe, the taper mismatches the barrel by about .002 per inch. I have the tailstock adjusted for barrel straightness. With 5" of chuck and drill bit sticking out of the tailstock, the tip of the drill bit is .010" off centre. This causes it to drill oversized and tapered holes. But the benefit is if I turn something between centres, it'll not be tapered no matter how far the quill is extended. Aligning the tailstock with the DTI-in-chuck method will cause you to setup the tailstock for taper straightness. To setup for barrel straightness you need a centre-drilled test bar and the DTI mounted in the toolpost. Use RDM (Rollie's Dad's Method) on both ends and adjust 'till equal. ---- Aligning the mini-lathe tailstock can be very frustrating, even with the various aids people have created. I like John's (gadgetbuilder's) one best. Using shims rather than pushing against a set-screw makes things a lot more repeatable, and dialing in the last .0005" is much easier by torquing down a screw "just a bit tighter". Finally, there's no point in going nuts about tailstock alignment if the headstock hasn't been aligned yet. Eventually you'll want to do that and it'll throw your tailstock alignment out (and all your hard work!). For a quick an dirty alignment, setup the headstock and tailstock with centres. A live tailstock is fine if it's a decent one. Then bring the points together with a thin piece of metal between them until they just touch lightly - you don't want to crush them. Use a thin razor-blade or thin shim: the thinner, the more easily the error will be seen. If the tailstock is well aligned, the shim will be held square to the rest of the lathe. Adjust as necessary, then check it again with the quill extended to get straightness. Go back and forth until you get it acceptable at both ends. Your tailstock is now aligned. I hope this is of some help. If something seems to be confusing, I find it's best pictured mentally if you think about it in the extremes. Somehow it seems more obvious that way. Good luck, -Paul Moir |
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Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Cleaning it up)
Thanks for the info. I'll just make my own pan, just wanted to know
if it was missing. Their packing list leaves a lot to be desired. Same for the manuals. But that's just part of this cheap-lathe- game. :D I already got a couple of the cheap oil cans from HF. I can modify one for the ball valves. Thanks again guys. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote: as a chip pan. At 14", it wouldn't be long enough for the 8x12, but I wonder if bigger ones are available for commercial bakeries. Andyone up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it.
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Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... Now milling attachment
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Gavin McIntosh" <gavinmc3@...>
wrote: G'day Gavin, No problem with the drill press, mine is bench mounted, I would get a pedestal one if buying now. Unless you pay a lot of money the average drill press is just that, average, certainly not of tool room precision, doesn't even match the minilathe out of the box. Try getting repeatable centering as you change the work piece height to accommodate different drill lenghts and then there is the run out and the slop in the spindle. Hence my comments about the mill. A precision drilling machine is virtually a mill without the traversing table and some with tables are sold as drill/mill combinations. For cost comparison purposes in Oz; a pedestal drill (average quality) sells for AUD350 and the Sieg milling attachment sells for AUD220 total AUD570 The current eBay price for a X1 mill is AUD655, only AUD85 more. (AUD1.0 = USD0.75 = S40P). Interestingly a milling attachment suitale for a larger lathe over 9" sells for about AUD250. I agree a drill press and a decent grinder are essential home workshop items, even ahead of a lathe, I had better finish before we finish up OT. One good turn deserves another. Regards Ian If you want to drill holes then a floor standing drill press isbetter and a good home shop should get one before the mill. |
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Re: Homier 7x12 electronic question
Steve Claggett
Unclerabid can take care of your questions and fix your board.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rikissme" <rikissme@...> wrote:
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Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe (cheap digital calipers)
Hi,
Firstly, I should report back on the original topic. I followed up 800watt on eBay and ordered several calipers from him. Yes, he will ship international on request. As people here said, his communication is pretty terse and speed is not his forte. The parcel took 18 days to get to me in Australia. But arrive it did and the calipers are fine. All 3 managed to turn themselves on in transit as their hard cases allow enough movement to touch the buttons on the protective foam - a nick with the penknife will fix that. They arrived with displays flashing indicating low batteries. However, each was packed with a spare battery and he threw in a bonus strip of 5 extra batteries. Now, who knows how to interface to the data port on these things? They seem to take some sort of miniature 4-pin plug. What are they called - anyone got a part number? Anyone know the pinout and data format? John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote: US only. :-(For example, a vendor "800WATT" sells the calipers item at goodprices - watch the s/h charges however. Also, this vendor has a low scoreworked out well. I've also purchased a larger caliper from Australia andfor DRO1&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=mods. Not sure if this helps but there are some atID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD208\ &pr\81&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumbericeMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=ID=TD2081&CATID=&keywords=TD20\ =&p\inriceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=> that may be of interest.$11.77 someonefreight to get a delivery to my door.all I peoplewants to buy some I'm happy to act as middle man. If a few werelistclosely located a bulk buy may be attractive. Contact me off iftradeyou'd like to explore details. wrote:customer). out.weeks
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Re: Micromill vs Minimill .... Now milling attachment
Gavin McIntosh
Ian,
If you want to drill holes then a floor standing drill press is better and a good home shop should get one before the mill. A X3 mill is big enough but an expensive hole drilling machine. The micromill is suitable for small hobby stuff, model trains, cars, plane etc. mini mill for the bigger hobbies, larger models and the X3 for motorbikes etc. Gavin From: "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>_________________________________________________________________ Advertisement: Win tickets to see Muse at London?s Wembley Stadium. Go now! |
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Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Cleaning it up)
andrew franks
Under a baby lathe which I own, I fitted a ?2/$4 baking tray to act as a chip pan. At 14", it wouldn't be long enough for the 8x12, but I wonder if bigger ones are available for commercial bakeries.
Andy Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote: Hi, The 8x12 does not come with a chip pan and HF doesn't sell one. Lathemaster has one but it is a bit on the pricey side. They do have a black splash guard (about $17...I believe) - no holes in the lathe for it however. I looked on e-Bay "stainless steel" and found many (most?) can't tell the difference between polished AL and stainless. As for the oil valves - HF does have a small pump oiler - I picked one up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it. Isn't it amazing the amount of "stuff" that comes off of the lathe - makes me wodner about the air the guys buidling it are breathing. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very end. Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with that later. I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up. I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning? One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for those? Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was installed or not. Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath it. Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning. Rance --------------------------------- Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta. --------------------------------- Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos. --------------------------------- New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Cleaning it up)
Druid Noibn
Hi,
The 8x12 does not come with a chip pan and HF doesn't sell one. Lathemaster has one but it is a bit on the pricey side. They do have a black splash guard (about $17...I believe) - no holes in the lathe for it however. I looked on e-Bay "stainless steel" and found many (most?) can't tell the difference between polished AL and stainless. As for the oil valves - HF does have a small pump oiler - I picked one up at the local store a couple of weeks ago. I'll have to find the # and post it. Isn't it amazing the amount of "stuff" that comes off of the lathe - makes me wodner about the air the guys buidling it are breathing. Take care, DBN rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote: Well, I just dove in with both feet to get it cleaned up. I decided to go ahead and disassemble the cross slide, compound, and tailstock for the cleaning. Since the parts were away from the lathe, I just used paint thinner for cleaning. I didn't find much more than a little protective layer of grease, really not much. Oh, I did find some surface rust on the cross slide. I bit the bullet and got after it with some 400 grit and that was that. A bit of it was on the under side of the cross slide but I think it will be ok. It was at the very end. Got it all put back together lubricating with Mobil 1 as I went. It seemed to go back together well. I had to tinker with the nut for the screw on the compound. If you don't get it juuuuuuuust right, the compound gets tight at one end of travel. Maybe I shouldn't have removed it for cleaning. No big deal. I may have to fiddle more with that later. I still have to degrease the pullys on the HS before crankin it up. I'm thinking that removing them would be prudent. Two have clip rings and the one on the 'other' end of the spindle has a threaded nut. Any one know of a reason I shouldn't remove these for cleaning? One thing I was pleasantly surprised with when I first got to looking closer to my new toy was to see all the oil ports with the check balls. However, could someone tell me what kind of oil can or spout I need to oil those things? Is there a special fitting on oil cans for those? Lastly, during the unpacking from the crate, I found one loose screw rolling around underneath the lathe. During the cleaning process, the only place I could see where a threaded hole did not have a screw is at the TS end of the bed. There's a hole in the casting below the TS. However, I can't see where it would make a difference whether it was installed or not. Oh, and lastly #2, could another HF 8x12 owner tell me if it is supposed to come with a pan underneath the lathe? I knew it did not have a back splash but thought it DID have a pan that goes underneath it. Thanks to all of you for the information you have provided me and for the encouragement that has gotten me this far in metal turning. Rance --------------------------------- Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check. Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta. --------------------------------- Don't pick lemons. See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos. |
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Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Pullys & Oil Ports)
G'day again Rance.
Regarding the oiling. I bought some cheap squirt type oil cans for AUD2.00 ( USD1.50 or S80p )from the cheap goods store. Where-ever you are you must have access to such stores. In Oz we have a veritable rash of them. full of low cost imitations of quality goods with unlikely sounding names. The said oil cans had a steel tube spout with a crudely formed nozzle on the end. I managed to extract the tube from the pump without wrecking anything and cut off the nozzle. A scrap of brass rod was drilled out with a fine hole, one end was turned down to make a tight fit in the end of the tube and the other end turned to a long taper. The new nozzle was soldered to the tube and the tube forced back into the pump. We now have a pump type squirt can with a fine nozzle which fits into the ball oilers. Four oil cans reside by my lathe with the following contents: cutting oil (Tap Magic), lub oil (for the bearings), medicinal parafin oil (for the ways) and used chip frying oil (cutting oil for mild steel). I seem to have made a "thing" for collecting lubricants because there is also spray RP7 (Like WD40), spray white grease, spray silicon lube I use it now on the change gears) and some Castrol greaee that was meant to be suitable for plastics (change gears). I forgot the molibdenum grease which I use sparingly on lead and feed screws, I must get some Molyslip oil additive because the grease holds swarf. Collecting oils, tools etc is all part of the fun!!!! One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote: ?
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Re: Bed extention for a micromark 7x14
thornappleboots
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Claggett" <790racer@...>
wrote: I appreciate you trying to find that. I want to turn some 20" small dowel like wood that could be fed through the headstock and turn 2 to 3" at a time then move it out and do it again. there wouldn't be much pressure against the tail stock. to make one. |
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Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!
wrlabs
Hi folks,
Update... I hath created a monster, I think :). After loosening the socket head screw under the tailstock I discover the top of the tailstock flops in the X and Y axis. Raised section on the base and the slot in the tailstock itself are mismatched by (guess) at least 1/8", lotsa twist there. Apparently that little slot head set screw on the back of the tailstock is for adjusting the Z (?rotational) orientation. If it was ever tightened down, it worked loose over time. I'm not sure what I am seeing here, but I get top and bottom of the quill to read zero (top set as reference zero) but the front (toward operator) and back are both around 13 (plus to front, minus to rear), depending on the tap of the moment. I was using the dead center for this and I thought that it was elliptical (flattened top to bottom). So, just to see what happened, I rotated the dead center 90 degrees expecting the top / bottom to increase and the front / rear to decrease. Values did not change ?!? Tried this using the inside and outside of the quill and get the same kind of results. I'm perplexed! Putting this away for today, tired of cranking on that lock nut :-). One another note. I was thinking it might be nice to have a place were folks could chat live, I put together a channel on chat.freenode.net: #vmmst Standing for: Virtual Micro and Mini-Machine Shop Tavern :-). Any IRC client will get you there set up for the network (chat.freenode.net) and the channel (#vmmst). IRC has gotten a bad rep for obnoxious jerks, but the exception to this I have found is freenode, my personal channel is there and I have yet (in years now) to have any problem with jerks. Only rule I have for the channel is that folks treat it like my (or your) living room and act accordingly. I do not and will not tolerate rude / obnoxious people. Enough said. It's there if folks want a place to chat live, I'm there when I am up although I may be doing other things and not notice right away. Thought it might be a nice resource. It;s been an exciting day! Take care, Vikki. |
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Re: Just got the cummins 7x12 need help with tooling
Clint D
Also, At HF, they carry a small variable speed 3" grinder that has a
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very fine wheel as well as a felt type wheel on the opposite side. I have had mine for a few years now and been very happy I bought it. usually sale around 20 - 25 bux Clint Mike Payson wrote: I had the exact same results as you using that cheapie carbide set. |
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Re: My 8x12 is here :) (Pullys & Oil Ports)
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:
Nudge the ball with the spout of your oil can. The ball sits on a little spring and should push in pretty readily so the oil can flow around the ball. They're KISS compatible. :-) John |
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Re: Army manuals on CD ROM
I noticed them in a torrent named "army courses" the other day.
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They're also at opensourcemachine.org . You can check them out there and decide if they're any good or not! - Paul Moir --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:
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Re: Threading and using the Dial
Does anybody know a procudure how to make a handcrank? A while ago I ran across a procedure on one of the lathe/minilathe/machining websites. But I do not remember any more which website that was.
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Thank you. Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas ----- Original Message -----
From: "roylowenthal" <roylowenthal@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:15 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading and using the Dial The handiest threading accessory you can make is a handcrank! Particularly on short, shouldered pieces turning the lathe by hand gives more torque & much better control. |
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Re: Taper - I think I have a problem?!
There's some more TS info in the "links" section at:
There are several different mods floating around to eliminate the clamp screw on the underside of the TS & some that provide actual controlled adjustment. Until you modify it, you can center it easier off the lathe. Once you figure how far off center it is, you can remove it to access the bottom screw. Before loosening things, measure the relative horizontal position of the upper & lower parts of the base. After you've done that, it's relatively easy to move it a controlled distance to center it. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote: (horrors) that the bed is crooked or perhaps the saddle is crooked?!??? |
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Re: Threading and using the Dial
The handiest threading accessory you can make is a handcrank!
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Particularly on short, shouldered pieces turning the lathe by hand gives more torque & much better control. The threading dial is only useful on imperial threads which are multiples of x/2 (assuming an imperial lead screw.) For metric approximations you pretty much have to keep the half-nuts engaged during the entire process. After you do that a couple of times, you'll find it's quicker & easier to do all your threading that way. On big lathes/long threads, it's not true; on these machines, it mostly is. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed" <edo@...> wrote:
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Re: new homier
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "fricebe" <fricebe@...> wrote:
Ah, but even reading about that wouldn't teach you half as well as making the mistake! I'm not saying you'll never repeat it. But next time you won't need to double check the spec 'cos you'll know it straight away. Keep up the hands on. John |
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Re: Homier 7x12 electronic question
I got the Homier a couple of years ago. The first time I fired it up, it ran noticably
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slower in reverse than forward. I called Homier & asked about it, and they said that the speed should be the same both ways. Whether or not that's true, they sent me a replacement controller board (no charge, and they didn't ask for the original back), and forward & reverse appear to be the same now. It might be worth a call. (From what I remember, the board didn't arrive that quickly. Maybe 3-4 weeks.) John ----- Original Message -----
From: John To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 6:49 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Homier 7x12 electronic question Welcome to the group, someone here should be able to answer your question. The controller normally provides reduced drive for reverse. When the switch is in the Rev position, is the spindle actually turning backwards? (One possibility on a new machine is that the motor wiring is hooked up backwards...) John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rikissme" <rikissme@...> wrote: > > Hello all, > I've been lurking on this group for sometime while waiting to get a > lathe and have finally bought the 7x12 from homier. I'm excited about > learning how to use it but I seem to have a problem. The lathe runs > smoothly in reverse but chugs along in the forward position. > > I removed the cover where the switches are and put an ohm meter on what > appears to be the main wires on the toggle switch (black for reverse > and white for forward - I think). Sure enough, I get a nice steady > current when running in reverse and a weaker pulsating current going > forward. > > Has anyone else in the group had a similar problem or have an idea how > to correct this? > > Thanks - Rick > |
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