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Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !
Mike Payson
Hi Ed,
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You can find info on cutting speeds (and lots more info) on the LMS reference page aqt . If you haven't seen it, be sure to check out their mini-lathe manual as well, available at . Mike On 3/21/07, Ed <edo@...> wrote:
I order a Homier over the weekend and got it today! I had planned on |
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Homier Lathe Arrived Today !
I order a Homier over the weekend and got it today! I had planned on
spending the evening cleaning it up, but there was no red grease to be found. All the bare metal had a light coat of oil on it. The back splash and pan were both dented, but no creases and I was able to straighten them out just fine. Unfortunately, my Enco order won't arrive until tomorrow so I have no tools yet (or anything to cut). I ran it per the instructions to break it in and realized that 2500 RPM is pretty fast. I was surprised at how quietly and smoothly it runs. What speeds are used for cutting aluminum? steel? Ed |
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Re: [SPAM] Homier Mini Lathe questions
Homier arrived today, and as expected, no Live Center. Other than the
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tools and gears, the only accessories that come with it are a 3 jaw chuck and a tailstock dead center. Ed
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Re: Woodworking with the mini-lathe
wrlabs
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "barryvabeach"
<barryvabeach@...> wrote: Thanks Barry! Those chisels seem to cut well enough, but most of them are just huge for the space and what I am trying to do, so it seems to me. Biggest problem seems to be not much room, especially at the ends with the tool post and all that in the way. Will try something with the small set and see what happens. I suspect that what I need will be between the two :-/. Thanks & take care, Vikki. |
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Re: Woodworking with the mini-lathe
wrlabs
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed" <edo@...> wrote:
Thanks Ed! I think it is a bit better. Not as long thus not sticking up enough to catch on things and I am particularly pleased with the larger knob at that top as it does provide for a more secure grip :-). Not sure what I need to do about chisels. The "big" set seems too big and I am afraid that the little set is :-) too little, dunno, will have to try it out. I do want to make something to replace the LMS wood working tool rest though, not much room to work with the saddle and it's load in there and the tailstock in action. Next time I want to see what is available, sometimes mail ordering is problematical. Especially when one is just wandering into something new. Still it was a lot of fun anyway and most encouraging :-) :-) :-)! Thanks & take care, Vikki. |
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Re: mini laths (and OH&S)
Marty N
There is what is legal and mandated by law and then there is safe and reasonable. It isn't always a good match.
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There is one side that wants to "protect you for your own good" because it's considered your an idiot and wont and because money is always more important than "safety". This side wants to put you in a "bubble". Not one that insulates you from injury but one that insulates insurers, suppliers and employers from monetary losses. Then there is the other side. A parent, friend, priest, advisor, that knows that as sure as the sun shines that the best way to keep everything your born with in tact and in good shape is good use of properly trained skills and techniques taught by those that know and not those who think they know Those that have no axe to grind, no political agenda, no chance of worldly loss of tangibles. And good use of the gray matter God put in your noggin. I need less protection in the event of an accident and more education in accident avoidance. I wonder, how many individuals get hurt because their hand is opening or closing a guard (hand near the danger) when it ought not be. I can think of a few family members hurt in just this way. Seat belts, helmets, and guards protect you only after a stupid or ignorant act. My $0.02 worth Marty PS, No I don't wear a helmet at the dinner table :) ----- Original Message -----
From: born4something To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:45 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: mini laths (and OH&S) Hi Ian, I don't want to knock your training and comments, but I suspect you've been out of the industry and legislative requirements for a while. Over the last decade or two there's been a bureaucrat takeover of industrial safety. I'm sure the drive comes from insurers covering compensation liability. That in itself is not a bad thing. They measure risk by payouts. However, they value a life at $X - an obvious underestimate for the individual. They value an injury at the payout including ongoing aids, etc. Most significantly, they don't measure the relative costs of implimenting various alternate risk management measures, only the savings on payouts. That cannot achieve a fully balanced outcome. Yet the legislators are on side and that's resulted in enforcement of a bureaucratic top-down safety system which often over-rides safety practices developed over the recent two centuries of industrialisation. They'd claim consultation. However, the safety legislation enforces a structure aimed at unskilled workers. Not surprising. The structure was devised by unskilled administrators forming committees advising bureaucrats. Maybe I'd best get off my hobby horse at this point and quote you the legislated hierarchy of controls as used in Australia (and elsewhere). From www.nohsc.gov.au/OHSInformation/Databases/OHSSolutions/hierarchy.htm <; .htm> : The Hierarchy of Controls = preferred order of control measures for OHS risks. 1. Elimination - controlling the hazard at source. 2. Substitution - eg. replacing one substance or activity with a less hazardous one. 3. Engineering - eg. installing guards on machinery 4. Administration - policies and procedures for safe work practices 5. Personal Protective Equipment - eg respirators, ear plugs. Training is seen as a means to help this all work. However, it is not a substitute for using the above list. That means an employer who teaches his employees about the hazards of the lathe chuck but fails to impliment the highest feasible solution in the list is subject to The Big Stick. Hence the chuck guard implimenting the Engineering Solution. Other international jurisdictions will differ in detail but it's pretty much a global movement. I have no problem with you training youngsters in the older safety practices. I do so myself. I also know they are going to live and work in a world governed by the above approach. When they jab themselves in the stomach because they stood in line with the unprotected tang of a file nobody will question their contribution. Only whether the employer identified the hazard and applied the above process to manage the risk. So that's the long story behind the chuck guard. And why I dare not remove it in my workplace. And why hobbiests and anyone else not beholden to worker's compensation insurance companies are free to remove it. But I still say SIEG STUFFED UP by putting a 6" chuck guard on a 7" lathe. In fact, by creating a strong inducement to its removal, Sieg or their distributors may yet be found liable for "foreseeable consequences". John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...> wrote: > > G'day Mike et al. > CHUCK GUARD. > You have to seriously wonder at the value of the chuck guard. > Somewhere in OH&S regs they say all rotsting pats must be guarded. On > automatic machines its presence is justified but on manual machines > it adds little to safety and may in itself create a hazard. It > obscures you vision when sighting how close the tool is to the chuck > and puts you at risk of crashing the tool into the chuck. > > My lathe has a guard, thankfully without a kill switch so it is > always up; I only put it down if coolant is being flung about by the > chuck. > > I have seen others in this group advocate leaving the change gear > cover off. I do not endorse this because it would be easy to let your > fingers stray towards the gears when using the lathe. The chuck guard > is another matter. > Let's do a JSA (Job Safety Analysis) > First danger: leaving the key in chuck; this should be overcome by > developing good habits; also starting slowly means the key drops out > rather than is flung out (this is inherent with the speed control > needing to be reset. > Second danger: clothing being caught in the chuck dragging in the > operator; overcome by wearing correct clothing, short sleeves, no > ties ec. > Third danger: ring finger getting caught, ripping off portion of > finger; overcome by taking rings off. > Forth danger: Swarf etc flung from chuck into eyes (it does happen); > overcome by wearing safety glasses. > > The list goes on but each risk can be controlled by correct practices. > > IMHO, take off the chuck guard and bridge out the limit switch. > > As a professional I am safety focused, here is a very recent example. > I had a family from our church over for a meal. The son is doing > metal work at school and together we turned up a quicky widget on the > lathe. The corners need rounding so I showed him how the file must be > used left handed and stressed that your arms must not cross over the > chuck and the file should be on a line passing outside the body. Next > day he went to school and was using a lathe with a file. He > apparently followed my instructions much to the surprise of his > teacher who asked how he learned the correct way. Response, "The > pastor of our church showed me!" > > My point. We must learn SAFE PRACTICES along with the skills we > master and, using groups like this, we must pass them on. the chuck > guard does little to enhance safe practice, it is appropriately > named, chuck it away! > > One good turn deserves another. > Regards, > Ian > > > > > --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" mike@ wrote: > > > I'm not sure if it's standard to all of the 7x's now, but the HF adds > > a chuck saftey shield that is only 3" from the center of the chuck, > so > > without removing it, somehow moving your work 3" or so from the > spindle, the > > largest work you can possibly turn is 6". > |
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Re: Woodworking with the mini-lathe
Vikki, congrats - I didn't say anything earlier, but i thought to
myself that with those tools it would be a miracle if you can do anything. Just wait till you get your hands on a true HSS gouge. Barry--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote: . html
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Re: mini laths
Mike Payson
I reckon you could easily fabricate a bigger mounting block for the rodI think you could use the existing guard if you were to build a riser block to raise it by about 3/4". Shouldn't be to terribly difficult to fix, but it really should have been done by SIEG, not by the end user. |
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Re: Slitting Saw Recommendations
wrlabs
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jeff Demand" <jdemand@...> wrote:
don't have a taig lathe but that thing sure would be a problem with mymill which I believe uses the same spindle. A blank taig arbor is cheap, turn astep to match your saws ID. 5 minutes and the shipping is more than a singleOk, you have convinced me :-). With OLM just down the street I'll order a couple chunks of steel and have at :-). Not sure what I need exactly, but the 12L14(?) stuff is supposed to be easy to turn. After that 1" stainless rod I got at the recycle place *CHEAP* probably anything would be easy to turn :-). 1/2" I think is max I want to go on the HF Micro Mill. Looked at your web site, some VERY nice stuff there! Take care, Vikki. |
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Re: mini laths (and OH&S)
Hi Ian,
I don't want to knock your training and comments, but I suspect you've been out of the industry and legislative requirements for a while. Over the last decade or two there's been a bureaucrat takeover of industrial safety. I'm sure the drive comes from insurers covering compensation liability. That in itself is not a bad thing. They measure risk by payouts. However, they value a life at $X - an obvious underestimate for the individual. They value an injury at the payout including ongoing aids, etc. Most significantly, they don't measure the relative costs of implimenting various alternate risk management measures, only the savings on payouts. That cannot achieve a fully balanced outcome. Yet the legislators are on side and that's resulted in enforcement of a bureaucratic top-down safety system which often over-rides safety practices developed over the recent two centuries of industrialisation. They'd claim consultation. However, the safety legislation enforces a structure aimed at unskilled workers. Not surprising. The structure was devised by unskilled administrators forming committees advising bureaucrats. Maybe I'd best get off my hobby horse at this point and quote you the legislated hierarchy of controls as used in Australia (and elsewhere). From www.nohsc.gov.au/OHSInformation/Databases/OHSSolutions/hierarchy.htm <; .htm> : The Hierarchy of Controls = preferred order of control measures for OHS risks. 1. Elimination - controlling the hazard at source. 2. Substitution - eg. replacing one substance or activity with a less hazardous one. 3. Engineering - eg. installing guards on machinery 4. Administration - policies and procedures for safe work practices 5. Personal Protective Equipment - eg respirators, ear plugs. Training is seen as a means to help this all work. However, it is not a substitute for using the above list. That means an employer who teaches his employees about the hazards of the lathe chuck but fails to impliment the highest feasible solution in the list is subject to The Big Stick. Hence the chuck guard implimenting the Engineering Solution. Other international jurisdictions will differ in detail but it's pretty much a global movement. I have no problem with you training youngsters in the older safety practices. I do so myself. I also know they are going to live and work in a world governed by the above approach. When they jab themselves in the stomach because they stood in line with the unprotected tang of a file nobody will question their contribution. Only whether the employer identified the hazard and applied the above process to manage the risk. So that's the long story behind the chuck guard. And why I dare not remove it in my workplace. And why hobbiests and anyone else not beholden to worker's compensation insurance companies are free to remove it. But I still say SIEG STUFFED UP by putting a 6" chuck guard on a 7" lathe. In fact, by creating a strong inducement to its removal, Sieg or their distributors may yet be found liable for "foreseeable consequences". John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...> wrote:
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Re: Slitting Saw Recommendations
jumbo75007
Just FYI
I have another brand of mill holders, (including 1/2inch) but I cannot think of the name at the moment. Dan Fuller Carrollton, Texas --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jeff Demand" <jdemand@...> wrote: don't have a taig lathe but that thing sure would be a problem with mymill which I believe uses the same spindle. A blank taig arbor is cheap, turna step |
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Re: Slitting Saw Recommendations
--- Hi Rance/Vikki,
For the occaisional times I need a slitting saw, I bought a few from Grizzly a couple of years ago 2.5" dia. w/ a 7/8" hole, in different thickness', and the "fits all" arbor. I found that the saws don't run true with that arbor, although with care, they work. I also bought some smaller dia. (I think they're 1.75" dia) with a 1/2" hole, at a flea market, for literaly pennies. The 1-1/4" dia. of the arbor leaves very little blade showing on the smaller ones. I made a 7/8" arbor from alum. round stock, and a 1/2" arbor from 3/4" round steel rod. They work much better,the saws run true, and are easier to use. And easy to make. The 3/4" rod arbor for the smaller saws leaves more cutting room. The diameter and thickness of the saws depend on your needs. So far these few sizes have worked for me. If blanks are available, making your own is even easier. Frank In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote: to my generalaccessory order but there are soooo many to choose from. For mostwork (not slotting), what size would prob. be best (most common, be doingeconomical)? What arbor size is the most common? I expect I'll intimidated asmostly alum. but might need it for steel too.Making one doesn't seem that difficult. Being lazy and I am :-) I am considering this one:MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83384
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Re: ENCO Free Shipping for a short time
Thanks Mike,
I knew there'd be an out somewhere. Last time I got them to UPS something to Australia it was over $US70. I couldn't see them accidentally including that in their offer. :-( John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote: AK, HI, US territories and international shipments are specificallyShipping promotions. Free UPS Shipping offers are limited to shipments underthe manually setcode in and their web software seems happy. Then again, I know niceme up weird account settings that force manual processing via a wrote:thought though! purchase from codeuse-enco.com. today!"WBCM7 in the promocode box on the shopping cart page and then click Apply. mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Slitting Saw Recommendations
Jeff Demand
Vikki,
that slitting saw arbor's 1/2" shank might be a problem ;-(. I don't have a taig lathe but that thing sure would be a problem with my mill which I believe uses the same spindle. A blank taig arbor is cheap, turn a step to match your saws ID. 5 minutes and the shipping is more than a single blank. Jeff * REPLY SEPARATOR * On 3/21/2007 at 8:30 PM wrlabs wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:&Type=Product&ID=83384Making one doesn't seem that difficult. Being lazy and intimidated as - Demand Designs Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing jdemand@... - |
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Re: Slitting Saw Recommendations
wrlabs
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:
Making one doesn't seem that difficult. Being lazy and intimidated as I am :-) I am considering this one: Micro-Mark has some really nice toys^H^H^H^H tools :-). Chisels came today, going to go check them out here in a bit. Take care, Vikki (no relation to Micro-Mark). |
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Re: Removing Tang From A Morse Taper
Michael Taglieri
The ones I've gotten from Enco are casehardened, but not necessarily
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through hardened. If you don't have a big grinder, a Dremel tool with an abrasive disk works well enough if you're in no hurry. If you cut it a bit too short, as I did on one once, you can epoxy or solder a bit of mild steel in the center to build it out again. Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@... Everyone has his reasons. - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game" On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 16:21:42 +0000 "gerry waclawiak" <gerrywac@...> writes: Most MT's are hardened and neither a hacksaw or bandsaw will touch
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Re: ENCO Free Shipping for a short time
Mike Payson
The fine print at the bottom of the page says:
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*Free Shipping and Free UPS Shipping refer to standard ground shipments to locations within the 48 contiguous U.S. states only; AK, HI, US territories and international shipments are specifically excluded from these offers. On truck shipments, liftgate and other non-standard services will incur an additional charge; call for details. Enco reserves the right to limit or discontinue Free Shipping promotions. Free UPS Shipping offers are limited to shipments under 125 lbs. and cannot be combined with other promotional offers from Enco. On 3/21/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
Sounds great, |
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