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CJ0618 7x12 mini lathe

smartboyiti
 

Hi,
Does any of you have any experiance with the CJ0618 mini lathe?
I'll appretiate getting any piece of info.

Itamar.


Micromill vs Minimill .... was originally (no subject)

cedge11
 

Gregor
The Mini Mill sometimes proves to be a bit cramped for space and
travel. The Micro Mill, which is even smaller, would be very limiting
in what you would be able to do with it. I'd probably nudge you toward
the larger Mini Mill just to keep the predictable curses from scaring
small children. A bit more expense, but it's also a quite bit more
machine.

Steve

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gregorstransky@...> wrote:

Hi:
I just joined the group. I only recently became interested in home shop
machinery and have been doing some lathe work on my 7x12 Cummins. I
plan to
buy a mill in the near future. Does anybody have any experience with
the
HarborFreight Micro Mill/Drill that sells for $299? I already posted
the
same question to the mini-mill group, but received only a few
responses.
Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas


UK special offer

andyf1108
 

I see from ArcEuroTrade's website that they have 7x14s on offer just
now. "5 machines only" it says. Also says "Due to overstocking", which
seems a bit contradictory.
Andy


(No subject)

Clint D
 

Greger

I have owned the mini mill but not the micro mill. depends on what you are interested in as far as projects.
personally, I think the mini is as small as I would ever go, actually I ended up with a Bridgeport style mill because I was so limited on the mini.

Cumminstool.com has the mini mill at the best deal I know of right now, dont know for sure if they carry the micro mill?
Clint
.


gregorstransky@... wrote:

Hi:
I just joined the group. I only recently became interested in home shop machinery and have been doing some lathe work on my 7x12 Cummins. I plan to
buy a mill in the near future. Does anybody have any experience with the HarborFreight Micro Mill/Drill that sells for $299? I already posted the same question to the mini-mill group, but received only a few responses. Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas



Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links





Re: mini laths (and OH&S)

 

Hi Ian,

See my responses interspersed.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day John.
Firstly, I am not retired and out of it, I have my own engineering
consulting business of which I am both director and an enployee, it
supports my other activities.
We do have a lot in common. That's my situation too. I haven't had much
call for OH&S awareness thrust at me in this role. Pre 2003 I was middle
managing in the public sector so awareness and compliance was really
pushed. If you go through the current competency based national
qualification scheme for any trade you'll get to do the OH&S ticket and
learn all about it. I did a data cabling cert a while back and had to do
it. My prior quals assumed it but when I wanted to add another ticket I
got caught up in it. Similarly, a friend with a solar heating / plumbing
company and a dozen employees gets tangled in it. Largely once you get
involved with the construction industry at a hands on / employer level.
My own company has only one employee (manager, secretary, director, tea
maker - me) mostly doing design work so I haven't needed to worry much.
Do you have other employees?

My thoughts still stand with respect to the home machinist. If the
machine is used by your employees then application of a guard or some
similar "engineering" measure is esential. But, the ACTUAL hazard
must be identifed. It is pointless guarding the chuck and leaving a
rotating workpiece exposed. The hazad of the key being flung out is
real but the guard is not necessarilly the solution. As an
alternative the key could be set in a holder that de-energises the
lathe when the key is not in the holder.
Agreed. But shhh... Don't mention the rotating work as well!
Interestingly, my machine was delivered with a light spring slipped over
the chuck key. It was just strong enough to eject the key from the chuck
if you weren't constantly holding it in. You could not let go when you
regripped the key while adjusting the chuck without having to fetch the
key back out of the chip tray!

The chuck guard is grandma engineering, reaction not application.
Eventually we could have to fully enclose the lathe like a CNC
machine.
Only reason we don't is historical precedence. The modern automobile
could not be launched today unless fully computerised driving and crash
avoidance were developed first. What's this human in control?! And then
there's the hammer, chainsaw, ...

Did Sieg stuff up or those who ordered the machines from them?
Since others in various countries have reported the same 6" figure on
the 7x12 machines I doubt it was just my distributor. It's looking
pretty universal.

If the chuck guard is to be retained you either put up with the
reduced swing or change the mounting of the guard as you suggested.
Few users of the lathe will be swinging the full 7 inches but
interference with the standard faceplate is a different matter.
Not having a full 7" didn't really worry me either. But I was mighty
cheesed when I bought their faceplate and had to remove the supplied
guard to fit it. After trueing the faceplate up I haven't used it again.
I've made do with the 4-jaw a few times where the faceplate would have
been the more logical choice. <G>

I don't know what it is about these lathes but they bring out a rash
of complaints in some people. For me, I am just happy to have a
lathe; even more so one that is not such a sacred cow that I am
unwilling to tamper with it. It is amazing, if you stuff a part up it
is just an email to someone like LMS and you are underway again at
comparatively little cost, few other lathes offer that opportunity.

Got that off my chest!
I hearty hear, hear! I'm in no doubt on that one. My budget was $1k and
that's sorta where I ended up with some accessories. Ok, I cribbed a few
more accessories than that. But no, I'm not complaining overall. I can
live with having to lap my gibs, align the tailstock, clean up the odd
burred thread, fitting an apron swarf guard, etc. But some things are
harder to rectify properly. That guard is one of them. Yeah, I had to
get that off my chest too!

And yes, I love the spares situation too. I have and old ex Water Board
aluminium runabout. Before I owned it I doubt it ever saw a boat ramp.
Just a rocky hillside into a dam. It was a workboat and had a hard life.
Very little paint left after 30 years. Gee I love that Ugly Duckling. I
never worry about fenders to keep it from being scratched on barnacles.
Or people scratching the paint with shoes. It's really laid back and
comfortable. I'm feeling that way about my 7x12 after 4 months due
largely to LMS being on standby!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards to all,
Ian
Keep on turnin',
John


micro mill

 

Gregor:

There's a bit of information regarding the HF mini and micro mills
over on the C-O Lathe group, listing the pluses, limitations, etc.
Come on over and have a look...



Type micro mill into the search parameter, and it'll pop up the whole
bevy of related posts...

Cheers,
Mark
=======


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., <gregorstransky@...> wrote:

Hi:
I just joined the group. I only recently became interested in home shop
machinery and have been doing some lathe work on my 7x12 Cummins. I
plan to
buy a mill in the near future. Does anybody have any experience with
the
HarborFreight Micro Mill/Drill that sells for $299? I already posted
the
same question to the mini-mill group, but received only a few
responses.
Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas


Re: mini laths (and OH&S)

 

G'day John.
Firstly, I am not retired and out of it, I have my own engineering
consulting business of which I am both director and an enployee, it
supports my other activities.
My thoughts still stand with respect to the home machinist. If the
machine is used by your employees then application of a guard or some
similar "engineering" measure is esential. But, the ACTUAL hazard
must be identifed. It is pointless guarding the chuck and leaving a
rotating workpiece exposed. The hazad of the key being flung out is
real but the guard is not necessarilly the solution. As an
alternative the key could be set in a holder that de-energises the
lathe when the key is not in the holder.

The chuck guard is grandma engineering, reaction not application.
Eventually we could have to fully enclose the lathe like a CNC
machine.

Did Sieg stuff up or those who ordered the machines from them?

If the chuck guard is to be retained you either put up with the
reduced swing or change the mounting of the guard as you suggested.
Few users of the lathe will be swinging the full 7 inches but
interference with the standard faceplate is a different matter.

I don't know what it is about these lathes but they bring out a rash
of complaints in some people. For me, I am just happy to have a
lathe; even more so one that is not such a sacred cow that I am
unwilling to tamper with it. It is amazing, if you stuff a part up it
is just an email to someone like LMS and you are underway again at
comparatively little cost, few other lathes offer that opportunity.

Got that off my chest!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards to all,
Ian





Over the last decade or two there's been a bureaucrat takeover of
industrial safety. I'm sure the drive comes from insurers covering
compensation liability. > They'd claim consultation. However, the
safety legislation enforces a
structure aimed at unskilled workers. Not surprising. The structure
was
devised by unskilled administrators forming committees advising
bureaucrats. Maybe I'd best get off my hobby horse at this point and
quote you the legislated hierarchy of controls as used in Australia
(and
elsewhere).

The Hierarchy of Controls = preferred order of control measures
for OHS
risks.

1. Elimination - controlling the hazard at source. 2.
Substitution - eg. replacing one substance or activity with a less
hazardous one. 3. Engineering - eg. installing guards on
machinery
4. Administration - policies and procedures for safe work
practices
5. Personal Protective Equipment - eg respirators, ear plugs.

Training is seen as a means to help this all work. However, it is
not a
substitute for using the above list.


(No subject)

 

Hi:
I just joined the group. I only recently became interested in home shop machinery and have been doing some lathe work on my 7x12 Cummins. I plan to
buy a mill in the near future. Does anybody have any experience with the HarborFreight Micro Mill/Drill that sells for $299? I already posted the same question to the mini-mill group, but received only a few responses. Thank you.
Gregor Stransky, San Antonio, Texas


Re: Slitting Saw Recommendations

 

Thanks Frank,

So is $9-$10 about the going price for :

Diameter (Inch): 2-1/2
Face Width (Inch): 1/16
Arbor Hole Size: 7/8
Material: HSS
Number of Teeth: 28
Type of Tooth: Plain Tooth

or should I look elsewhere since it prob. won't be the first
accessory I'll be wanting to use? Thanks.

Rance

PS: I think I'll just make my own arbor. Only need one size for now.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nyceacres200"
<nyceacres200@...> wrote:

--- Hi Rance/Vikki,
For the occaisional times I need a slitting saw, I bought a few
from Grizzly a couple of years ago 2.5" dia. w/ a 7/8" hole, in
different thickness', and the "fits all" arbor. I found that the
saws don't run true with that arbor, although with care, they work.
I also bought some smaller dia. (I think they're 1.75" dia) with a
1/2" hole, at a flea market, for literaly pennies. The 1-1/4" dia.
of the arbor leaves very little blade showing on the smaller ones.
I
made a 7/8" arbor from alum. round stock, and a 1/2" arbor from
3/4"
round steel rod. They work much better,the saws run true, and are
easier to use. And easy to make. The 3/4" rod arbor for the smaller
saws leaves more cutting room. The diameter and thickness of the
saws depend on your needs. So far these few sizes have worked for
me. If blanks are available, making your own is even easier.

Frank


Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

Mike Payson
 

Most email clients seem to gracefully handle punctuation at the end of
URLs, but I'll watch more closely in the future.

Mike

On 3/21/07, Ed <edo@...> wrote:
I just clicked on it as posted - it looks like the period got included
as part of the hyperlink. It works without it. Thanks.



Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

 

I just clicked on it as posted - it looks like the period got included
as part of the hyperlink. It works without it. Thanks.


Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

Mike Payson
 

Hmm... Did you copy the period at the end of the sentence? The link
works fine for me. It's the link to their reference section, rather
then directly to the cutting speeds page, though.

On 3/21/07, Ed <edo@...> wrote:
Thanks, Mike. The link no longer works but I found it




Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links




Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

 

Thanks, Mike. The link no longer works but I found it


Re: Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

Mike Payson
 

Hi Ed,

You can find info on cutting speeds (and lots more info) on the LMS
reference page aqt
. If you haven't
seen it, be sure to check out their mini-lathe manual as well,
available at .

Mike

On 3/21/07, Ed <edo@...> wrote:
I order a Homier over the weekend and got it today! I had planned on
spending the evening cleaning it up, but there was no red grease to be
found. All the bare metal had a light coat of oil on it. The back
splash and pan were both dented, but no creases and I was able to
straighten them out just fine.

Unfortunately, my Enco order won't arrive until tomorrow so I have no
tools yet (or anything to cut).

I ran it per the instructions to break it in and realized that 2500
RPM is pretty fast. I was surprised at how quietly and smoothly it
runs. What speeds are used for cutting aluminum? steel?
Ed




Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links




Homier Lathe Arrived Today !

 

I order a Homier over the weekend and got it today! I had planned on
spending the evening cleaning it up, but there was no red grease to be
found. All the bare metal had a light coat of oil on it. The back
splash and pan were both dented, but no creases and I was able to
straighten them out just fine.

Unfortunately, my Enco order won't arrive until tomorrow so I have no
tools yet (or anything to cut).

I ran it per the instructions to break it in and realized that 2500
RPM is pretty fast. I was surprised at how quietly and smoothly it
runs. What speeds are used for cutting aluminum? steel?
Ed


Re: [SPAM] Homier Mini Lathe questions

 

Homier arrived today, and as expected, no Live Center. Other than the
tools and gears, the only accessories that come with it are a 3 jaw
chuck and a tailstock dead center.
Ed


I wouldn't count on getting a Live Center with the Homier, but I just
ordered one and will let you know. The Lathe description says it
includes "1 center roller" that's not shown in the picture, and
according to mini-lathe.com 's review of the Homier, it only comes
with a dead center. I ordered the Homier accessory kit which includes
a Live Center which they call a "Rolling Center" (it's shown in the
picture).



Re: Woodworking with the mini-lathe

wrlabs
 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "barryvabeach"
<barryvabeach@...> wrote:

Vikki, congrats - I didn't say anything earlier, but i thought to
myself that with those tools it would be a miracle if you can do
anything. Just wait till you get your hands on a true HSS gouge.
Thanks Barry!

Those chisels seem to cut well enough, but most of them are just huge
for the space and what I am trying to do, so it seems to me.

Biggest problem seems to be not much room, especially at the ends with
the tool post and all that in the way.

Will try something with the small set and see what happens. I suspect
that what I need will be between the two :-/.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.


Re: Woodworking with the mini-lathe

wrlabs
 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed" <edo@...> wrote:

Great job, Vicki. The new one looks so much better than the original.
I agree with Barry - you'll be amazed what better cutting tools will
do for you.
Ed
Thanks Ed!

I think it is a bit better. Not as long thus not sticking up enough
to catch on things and I am particularly pleased with the larger knob
at that top as it does provide for a more secure grip :-).

Not sure what I need to do about chisels. The "big" set seems too big
and I am afraid that the little set is :-) too little, dunno, will
have to try it out.

I do want to make something to replace the LMS wood working tool rest
though, not much room to work with the saddle and it's load in there
and the tailstock in action.

Next time I want to see what is available, sometimes mail ordering is
problematical. Especially when one is just wandering into something new.

Still it was a lot of fun anyway and most encouraging :-) :-) :-)!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.


Re: Woodworking with the mini-lathe

 

Great job, Vicki. The new one looks so much better than the original.
I agree with Barry - you'll be amazed what better cutting tools will
do for you.
Ed


Re: mini laths (and OH&S)

Marty N
 

There is what is legal and mandated by law and then there is safe and reasonable. It isn't always a good match.

There is one side that wants to "protect you for your own good" because it's considered your an idiot and wont and because money is always more important than "safety". This side wants to put you in a "bubble". Not one that insulates you from injury but one that insulates insurers, suppliers and employers from monetary losses.

Then there is the other side. A parent, friend, priest, advisor, that knows that as sure as the sun shines that the best way to keep everything your born with in tact and in good shape is good use of properly trained skills and techniques taught by those that know and not those who think they know Those that have no axe to grind, no political agenda, no chance of worldly loss of tangibles. And good use of the gray matter God put in your noggin.

I need less protection in the event of an accident and more education in accident avoidance.

I wonder, how many individuals get hurt because their hand is opening or closing a guard (hand near the danger) when it ought not be. I can think of a few family members hurt in just this way.

Seat belts, helmets, and guards protect you only after a stupid or ignorant act.

My $0.02 worth

Marty

PS, No I don't wear a helmet at the dinner table :)

----- Original Message -----
From: born4something
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 6:45 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: mini laths (and OH&S)



Hi Ian,

I don't want to knock your training and comments, but I suspect you've
been out of the industry and legislative requirements for a while.

Over the last decade or two there's been a bureaucrat takeover of
industrial safety. I'm sure the drive comes from insurers covering
compensation liability. That in itself is not a bad thing. They measure
risk by payouts. However, they value a life at $X - an obvious
underestimate for the individual. They value an injury at the payout
including ongoing aids, etc. Most significantly, they don't measure the
relative costs of implimenting various alternate risk management
measures, only the savings on payouts. That cannot achieve a fully
balanced outcome.

Yet the legislators are on side and that's resulted in enforcement of a
bureaucratic top-down safety system which often over-rides safety
practices developed over the recent two centuries of industrialisation.
They'd claim consultation. However, the safety legislation enforces a
structure aimed at unskilled workers. Not surprising. The structure was
devised by unskilled administrators forming committees advising
bureaucrats. Maybe I'd best get off my hobby horse at this point and
quote you the legislated hierarchy of controls as used in Australia (and
elsewhere).

From
www.nohsc.gov.au/OHSInformation/Databases/OHSSolutions/hierarchy.htm
<;
.htm> :

The Hierarchy of Controls = preferred order of control measures for OHS
risks.

1. Elimination - controlling the hazard at source. 2.
Substitution - eg. replacing one substance or activity with a less
hazardous one. 3. Engineering - eg. installing guards on machinery
4. Administration - policies and procedures for safe work practices
5. Personal Protective Equipment - eg respirators, ear plugs.

Training is seen as a means to help this all work. However, it is not a
substitute for using the above list. That means an employer who teaches
his employees about the hazards of the lathe chuck but fails to
impliment the highest feasible solution in the list is subject to The
Big Stick. Hence the chuck guard implimenting the Engineering Solution.
Other international jurisdictions will differ in detail but it's pretty
much a global movement.

I have no problem with you training youngsters in the older safety
practices. I do so myself. I also know they are going to live and work
in a world governed by the above approach. When they jab themselves in
the stomach because they stood in line with the unprotected tang of a
file nobody will question their contribution. Only whether the employer
identified the hazard and applied the above process to manage the risk.

So that's the long story behind the chuck guard. And why I dare not
remove it in my workplace. And why hobbiests and anyone else not
beholden to worker's compensation insurance companies are free to remove
it. But I still say SIEG STUFFED UP by putting a 6" chuck guard on a 7"
lathe. In fact, by creating a strong inducement to its removal, Sieg or
their distributors may yet be found liable for "foreseeable
consequences".

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:
>
> G'day Mike et al.
> CHUCK GUARD.
> You have to seriously wonder at the value of the chuck guard.
> Somewhere in OH&S regs they say all rotsting pats must be guarded. On
> automatic machines its presence is justified but on manual machines
> it adds little to safety and may in itself create a hazard. It
> obscures you vision when sighting how close the tool is to the chuck
> and puts you at risk of crashing the tool into the chuck.
>
> My lathe has a guard, thankfully without a kill switch so it is
> always up; I only put it down if coolant is being flung about by the
> chuck.
>
> I have seen others in this group advocate leaving the change gear
> cover off. I do not endorse this because it would be easy to let your
> fingers stray towards the gears when using the lathe. The chuck guard
> is another matter.
> Let's do a JSA (Job Safety Analysis)
> First danger: leaving the key in chuck; this should be overcome by
> developing good habits; also starting slowly means the key drops out
> rather than is flung out (this is inherent with the speed control
> needing to be reset.
> Second danger: clothing being caught in the chuck dragging in the
> operator; overcome by wearing correct clothing, short sleeves, no
> ties ec.
> Third danger: ring finger getting caught, ripping off portion of
> finger; overcome by taking rings off.
> Forth danger: Swarf etc flung from chuck into eyes (it does happen);
> overcome by wearing safety glasses.
>
> The list goes on but each risk can be controlled by correct practices.
>
> IMHO, take off the chuck guard and bridge out the limit switch.
>
> As a professional I am safety focused, here is a very recent example.
> I had a family from our church over for a meal. The son is doing
> metal work at school and together we turned up a quicky widget on the
> lathe. The corners need rounding so I showed him how the file must be
> used left handed and stressed that your arms must not cross over the
> chuck and the file should be on a line passing outside the body. Next
> day he went to school and was using a lathe with a file. He
> apparently followed my instructions much to the surprise of his
> teacher who asked how he learned the correct way. Response, "The
> pastor of our church showed me!"
>
> My point. We must learn SAFE PRACTICES along with the skills we
> master and, using groups like this, we must pass them on. the chuck
> guard does little to enhance safe practice, it is appropriately
> named, chuck it away!
>
> One good turn deserves another.
> Regards,
> Ian
>
>
>
>
> --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" mike@ wrote:
> >
> I'm not sure if it's standard to all of the 7x's now, but the HF adds
> > a chuck saftey shield that is only 3" from the center of the chuck,
> so
> > without removing it, somehow moving your work 3" or so from the
> spindle, the
> > largest work you can possibly turn is 6".
>