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Vikki, congrats - I didn't say anything earlier, but i thought to
myself that with those tools it would be a miracle if you can do
anything. Just wait till you get your hands on a true HSS gouge.
Barry--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...>
wrote:

Hi Folks,

Well, success for the first attempt!

Chisels came in today so I went to work :-).

Results and commentary at:

.
html

Quite pleased with the results!

Pretty sure the "big" chisels are just that - too big :-/.

Next time I use some decent wood :).

Take care, Vikki.

I reckon you could easily fabricate a bigger mounting block for the rod
and microswitch to place the rod further out. Say 3 1/2" from spindle
centre. The problem is the clear plastic guard itself. Perhaps you could
heat form some clear polycarbonate over some large pipe or turn up a 7"
wooden former (with the guard removed). The original is semi-enclosed on
the h/s end with a partial reinforcing web. That's easy for an injection
molding machine but less than easy to fabricate. I guess transparency of
the end isn't so important so you could improvise with sheet aluminium.
Here in Oz we have some 3 litre soft drink cans about the right size to
do the whole thing in tinplate.

I think you could use the existing guard if you were to build a riser
block to raise it by about 3/4". Shouldn't be to terribly difficult to
fix, but it really should have been done by SIEG, not by the end user.

Hi Folks,

Well, success for the first attempt!

Chisels came in today so I went to work :-).

Results and commentary at:



Quite pleased with the results!

Pretty sure the "big" chisels are just that - too big :-/.

Next time I use some decent wood :).

Take care, Vikki.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jeff Demand" <jdemand@...> wrote:

Vikki,

that slitting saw arbor's 1/2" shank might be a problem ;-(. I

don't

have a taig lathe but that thing sure would be a problem with my

mill which

I believe uses the same spindle. A blank taig arbor is cheap, turn a

step

to match your saws ID. 5 minutes and the shipping is more than a single
blank.

Ok, you have convinced me :-). With OLM just down the street I'll
order a couple chunks of steel and have at :-).

Not sure what I need exactly, but the 12L14(?) stuff is supposed to be
easy to turn. After that 1" stainless rod I got at the recycle place
*CHEAP* probably anything would be easy to turn :-).

1/2" I think is max I want to go on the HF Micro Mill.

Looked at your web site, some VERY nice stuff there!

Take care, Vikki.

Hi Ian,

I don't want to knock your training and comments, but I suspect you've
been out of the industry and legislative requirements for a while.

Over the last decade or two there's been a bureaucrat takeover of
industrial safety. I'm sure the drive comes from insurers covering
compensation liability. That in itself is not a bad thing. They measure
risk by payouts. However, they value a life at $X - an obvious
underestimate for the individual. They value an injury at the payout
including ongoing aids, etc. Most significantly, they don't measure the
relative costs of implimenting various alternate risk management
measures, only the savings on payouts. That cannot achieve a fully
balanced outcome.

Yet the legislators are on side and that's resulted in enforcement of a
bureaucratic top-down safety system which often over-rides safety
practices developed over the recent two centuries of industrialisation.
They'd claim consultation. However, the safety legislation enforces a
structure aimed at unskilled workers. Not surprising. The structure was
devised by unskilled administrators forming committees advising
bureaucrats. Maybe I'd best get off my hobby horse at this point and
quote you the legislated hierarchy of controls as used in Australia (and
elsewhere).

From www.nohsc.gov.au/OHSInformation/Databases/OHSSolutions/hierarchy.htm
<;
.htm> :

The Hierarchy of Controls = preferred order of control measures for OHS
risks.

1. Elimination - controlling the hazard at source. 2.
Substitution - eg. replacing one substance or activity with a less
hazardous one. 3. Engineering - eg. installing guards on machinery
4. Administration - policies and procedures for safe work practices
5. Personal Protective Equipment - eg respirators, ear plugs.

Training is seen as a means to help this all work. However, it is not a
substitute for using the above list. That means an employer who teaches
his employees about the hazards of the lathe chuck but fails to
impliment the highest feasible solution in the list is subject to The
Big Stick. Hence the chuck guard implimenting the Engineering Solution.
Other international jurisdictions will differ in detail but it's pretty
much a global movement.

I have no problem with you training youngsters in the older safety
practices. I do so myself. I also know they are going to live and work
in a world governed by the above approach. When they jab themselves in
the stomach because they stood in line with the unprotected tang of a
file nobody will question their contribution. Only whether the employer
identified the hazard and applied the above process to manage the risk.

So that's the long story behind the chuck guard. And why I dare not
remove it in my workplace. And why hobbiests and anyone else not
beholden to worker's compensation insurance companies are free to remove
it. But I still say SIEG STUFFED UP by putting a 6" chuck guard on a 7"
lathe. In fact, by creating a strong inducement to its removal, Sieg or
their distributors may yet be found liable for "foreseeable
consequences".

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "steam4ian" <fosterscons@...>
wrote:

G'day Mike et al.
CHUCK GUARD.
You have to seriously wonder at the value of the chuck guard.
Somewhere in OH&S regs they say all rotsting pats must be guarded. On
automatic machines its presence is justified but on manual machines
it adds little to safety and may in itself create a hazard. It
obscures you vision when sighting how close the tool is to the chuck
and puts you at risk of crashing the tool into the chuck.

My lathe has a guard, thankfully without a kill switch so it is
always up; I only put it down if coolant is being flung about by the
chuck.

I have seen others in this group advocate leaving the change gear
cover off. I do not endorse this because it would be easy to let your
fingers stray towards the gears when using the lathe. The chuck guard
is another matter.
Let's do a JSA (Job Safety Analysis)
First danger: leaving the key in chuck; this should be overcome by
developing good habits; also starting slowly means the key drops out
rather than is flung out (this is inherent with the speed control
needing to be reset.
Second danger: clothing being caught in the chuck dragging in the
operator; overcome by wearing correct clothing, short sleeves, no
ties ec.
Third danger: ring finger getting caught, ripping off portion of
finger; overcome by taking rings off.
Forth danger: Swarf etc flung from chuck into eyes (it does happen);
overcome by wearing safety glasses.

The list goes on but each risk can be controlled by correct practices.

IMHO, take off the chuck guard and bridge out the limit switch.

As a professional I am safety focused, here is a very recent example.
I had a family from our church over for a meal. The son is doing
metal work at school and together we turned up a quicky widget on the
lathe. The corners need rounding so I showed him how the file must be
used left handed and stressed that your arms must not cross over the
chuck and the file should be on a line passing outside the body. Next
day he went to school and was using a lathe with a file. He
apparently followed my instructions much to the surprise of his
teacher who asked how he learned the correct way. Response, "The
pastor of our church showed me!"

My point. We must learn SAFE PRACTICES along with the skills we
master and, using groups like this, we must pass them on. the chuck
guard does little to enhance safe practice, it is appropriately
named, chuck it away!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" mike@ wrote:

I'm not sure if it's standard to all of the 7x's now, but the HF adds

a chuck saftey shield that is only 3" from the center of the chuck,

so

without removing it, somehow moving your work 3" or so from the

spindle, the

largest work you can possibly turn is 6".

Just FYI



I have another brand of mill holders,
(including 1/2inch) but I cannot
think of the name at the moment.

Dan Fuller
Carrollton, Texas

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Jeff Demand" <jdemand@...>
wrote:

Vikki,

that slitting saw arbor's 1/2" shank might be a problem ;-(. I

don't

have a taig lathe but that thing sure would be a problem with my

mill which

I believe uses the same spindle. A blank taig arbor is cheap, turn

a step

--- Hi Rance/Vikki,
For the occaisional times I need a slitting saw, I bought a few
from Grizzly a couple of years ago 2.5" dia. w/ a 7/8" hole, in
different thickness', and the "fits all" arbor. I found that the
saws don't run true with that arbor, although with care, they work.
I also bought some smaller dia. (I think they're 1.75" dia) with a
1/2" hole, at a flea market, for literaly pennies. The 1-1/4" dia.
of the arbor leaves very little blade showing on the smaller ones. I
made a 7/8" arbor from alum. round stock, and a 1/2" arbor from 3/4"
round steel rod. They work much better,the saws run true, and are
easier to use. And easy to make. The 3/4" rod arbor for the smaller
saws leaves more cutting room. The diameter and thickness of the
saws depend on your needs. So far these few sizes have worked for
me. If blanks are available, making your own is even easier.

Frank

In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

It Seems that a Slitting Saw & arbor would be prudent additions

to my

accessory order but there are soooo many to choose from. For

general

work (not slotting), what size would prob. be best (most common,

most

economical)? What arbor size is the most common? I expect I'll

be doing

mostly alum. but might need it for steel too.

Seems that an arbor might be a good first project. Thanks.

Making one doesn't seem that difficult. Being lazy and

intimidated as

I am :-) I am considering this one:

MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83384

Micro-Mark has some really nice toys^H^H^H^H tools :-).

Chisels came today, going to go check them out here in a bit.

Take care, Vikki (no relation to Micro-Mark).

Thanks Mike,

I knew there'd be an out somewhere. Last time I got them to UPS
something to Australia it was over $US70. I couldn't see them
accidentally including that in their offer. :-(

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:

The fine print at the bottom of the page says:

*Free Shipping and Free UPS Shipping refer to standard ground
shipments to locations within the 48 contiguous U.S. states only;

AK,

HI, US territories and international shipments are specifically
excluded from these offers. On truck shipments, liftgate and other
non-standard services will incur an additional charge; call for
details. Enco reserves the right to limit or discontinue Free

Shipping

promotions. Free UPS Shipping offers are limited to shipments under
125 lbs. and cannot be combined with other promotional offers from
Enco.

On 3/21/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:

Sounds great,

Anyone know if that promo includes international freight? I put

the

code in and their web software seems happy. Then again, I know
international is all a big kludge on their web site. They

manually set

me up weird account settings that force manual processing via a
specific office. I'm not game enough to commit the order. Very

nice

thought though!

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "selbycruz" <danselby@>

wrote:

"Today through Friday, get Free UPS Shipping* when you

purchase from

use-enco.com.

Take advantage of this exclusive 4-day offer by entering promo

code

WBCM7 in the promo

code box on the shopping cart page and then click Apply.

Hurry, this offer expires on Friday, March 23, 2007, so act

today!"

Dan Selby, Santa Cruz

Be sure to check out for small

mills and lathes.

Yahoo! Groups Links

Vikki,

that slitting saw arbor's 1/2" shank might be a problem ;-(. I don't
have a taig lathe but that thing sure would be a problem with my mill which
I believe uses the same spindle. A blank taig arbor is cheap, turn a step
to match your saws ID. 5 minutes and the shipping is more than a single
blank.

Jeff

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 3/21/2007 at 8:30 PM wrlabs wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

It Seems that a Slitting Saw & arbor would be prudent additions to my
accessory order but there are soooo many to choose from. For general
work (not slotting), what size would prob. be best (most common, most
economical)? What arbor size is the most common? I expect I'll be doing
mostly alum. but might need it for steel too.

Seems that an arbor might be a good first project. Thanks.

Making one doesn't seem that difficult. Being lazy and intimidated as
I am :-) I am considering this one:

&Type=Product&ID=83384

Micro-Mark has some really nice toys^H^H^H^H tools :-).

Chisels came today, going to go check them out here in a bit.

Take care, Vikki (no relation to Micro-Mark).

-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing


jdemand@...
-

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

It Seems that a Slitting Saw & arbor would be prudent additions to my
accessory order but there are soooo many to choose from. For general
work (not slotting), what size would prob. be best (most common, most
economical)? What arbor size is the most common? I expect I'll be doing
mostly alum. but might need it for steel too.

Seems that an arbor might be a good first project. Thanks.

Making one doesn't seem that difficult. Being lazy and intimidated as
I am :-) I am considering this one:



Micro-Mark has some really nice toys^H^H^H^H tools :-).

Chisels came today, going to go check them out here in a bit.

Take care, Vikki (no relation to Micro-Mark).

The ones I've gotten from Enco are casehardened, but not necessarily
through hardened. If you don't have a big grinder, a Dremel tool with an
abrasive disk works well enough if you're in no hurry.

If you cut it a bit too short, as I did on one once, you can epoxy or
solder a bit of mild steel in the center to build it out again.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 16:21:42 +0000 "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@...> writes:

The fine print at the bottom of the page says:

*Free Shipping and Free UPS Shipping refer to standard ground
shipments to locations within the 48 contiguous U.S. states only; AK,
HI, US territories and international shipments are specifically
excluded from these offers. On truck shipments, liftgate and other
non-standard services will incur an additional charge; call for
details. Enco reserves the right to limit or discontinue Free Shipping
promotions. Free UPS Shipping offers are limited to shipments under
125 lbs. and cannot be combined with other promotional offers from
Enco.

It Seems that a Slitting Saw & arbor would be prudent additions to my
accessory order but there are soooo many to choose from. For general
work (not slotting), what size would prob. be best (most common, most
economical)? What arbor size is the most common? I expect I'll be doing
mostly alum. but might need it for steel too.

Seems that an arbor might be a good first project. Thanks.

Rance

Ed,

Thanks. That's exactly what I needed to know. I don't plan on buying
the commercial QCTP, I plan on making my own. Prob. build it for the
3/8" tools. I do like the idea of using the 4-way that comes with the
lathe. For now I may buy a few 1/2 AND 3/8.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Ed Boysun" <boysungran@...>
wrote:

If you intend to use the OEM 4-way toolpost, it needs 1/2" bits.

All it

takes then is .022 shim to bring the cutting edge to the center. The
smaller bits would need quite a bit more shimming. If you intend to

put

a QCTP on the lathe, then 3/8" seems like a better choice, as folks

say

the tool holders don't quite go down far enough to center the

cutting

edge with 1/2" bits. For my uses, I find the 4-way post and 1/2"

tools

quite acceptable.

Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

In getting my tool order together I can't seem to find out what

size

tool bits my 8x12-to-be takes. 3/8 or 5/16? Even if it will hold

a 3/8

should I just use 5/16 for some reason? Thanks.

If you intend to use the OEM 4-way toolpost, it needs 1/2" bits. All it
takes then is .022 shim to bring the cutting edge to the center. The
smaller bits would need quite a bit more shimming. If you intend to put
a QCTP on the lathe, then 3/8" seems like a better choice, as folks say
the tool holders don't quite go down far enough to center the cutting
edge with 1/2" bits. For my uses, I find the 4-way post and 1/2" tools
quite acceptable.

Ed B

G'day Mike et al.
CHUCK GUARD.
You have to seriously wonder at the value of the chuck guard.
Somewhere in OH&S regs they say all rotsting pats must be guarded. On
automatic machines its presence is justified but on manual machines
it adds little to safety and may in itself create a hazard. It
obscures you vision when sighting how close the tool is to the chuck
and puts you at risk of crashing the tool into the chuck.

My lathe has a guard, thankfully without a kill switch so it is
always up; I only put it down if coolant is being flung about by the
chuck.

I have seen others in this group advocate leaving the change gear
cover off. I do not endorse this because it would be easy to let your
fingers stray towards the gears when using the lathe. The chuck guard
is another matter.
Let's do a JSA (Job Safety Analysis)
First danger: leaving the key in chuck; this should be overcome by
developing good habits; also starting slowly means the key drops out
rather than is flung out (this is inherent with the speed control
needing to be reset.
Second danger: clothing being caught in the chuck dragging in the
operator; overcome by wearing correct clothing, short sleeves, no
ties ec.
Third danger: ring finger getting caught, ripping off portion of
finger; overcome by taking rings off.
Forth danger: Swarf etc flung from chuck into eyes (it does happen);
overcome by wearing safety glasses.

The list goes on but each risk can be controlled by correct practices.

IMHO, take off the chuck guard and bridge out the limit switch.

As a professional I am safety focused, here is a very recent example.
I had a family from our church over for a meal. The son is doing
metal work at school and together we turned up a quicky widget on the
lathe. The corners need rounding so I showed him how the file must be
used left handed and stressed that your arms must not cross over the
chuck and the file should be on a line passing outside the body. Next
day he went to school and was using a lathe with a file. He
apparently followed my instructions much to the surprise of his
teacher who asked how he learned the correct way. Response, "The
pastor of our church showed me!"

My point. We must learn SAFE PRACTICES along with the skills we
master and, using groups like this, we must pass them on. the chuck
guard does little to enhance safe practice, it is appropriately
named, chuck it away!

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:

I'm not sure if it's standard to all of the 7x's now, but the HF adds

a chuck saftey shield that is only 3" from the center of the chuck,

so

without removing it, somehow moving your work 3" or so from the

spindle, the

largest work you can possibly turn is 6".

In getting my tool order together I can't seem to find out what size
tool bits my 8x12-to-be takes. 3/8 or 5/16? Even if it will hold a 3/8
should I just use 5/16 for some reason? Thanks.

Sounds great,

Anyone know if that promo includes international freight? I put the
code in and their web software seems happy. Then again, I know
international is all a big kludge on their web site. They manually set
me up weird account settings that force manual processing via a
specific office. I'm not game enough to commit the order. Very nice
thought though!

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "selbycruz" <danselby@...> wrote:

"Today through Friday, get Free UPS Shipping* when you purchase from

use-enco.com.

Take advantage of this exclusive 4-day offer by entering promo code

WBCM7 in the promo

code box on the shopping cart page and then click Apply.

Hurry, this offer expires on Friday, March 23, 2007, so act today!"

Dan Selby, Santa Cruz

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "MZT.Groups" <mzt.groups@...>
wrote:

Would it be possible to cut off part of the rod and modify the guard

in a

way it would fit safely on the remaining piece? That would let you

keep that

'safety feature' of the machine during normal work, to have it quickly
removed only when it prevents you from doing the job.

Marcello

Hi Marcello,

I reckon you could easily fabricate a bigger mounting block for the rod
and microswitch to place the rod further out. Say 3 1/2" from spindle
centre. The problem is the clear plastic guard itself. Perhaps you could
heat form some clear polycarbonate over some large pipe or turn up a 7"
wooden former (with the guard removed). The original is semi-enclosed on
the h/s end with a partial reinforcing web. That's easy for an injection
molding machine but less than easy to fabricate. I guess transparency of
the end isn't so important so you could improvise with sheet aluminium.
Here in Oz we have some 3 litre soft drink cans about the right size to
do the whole thing in tinplate.

At the end of the day it's gonna look real ugly no matter how you go.
You'd have to be really committed to keeping a chuck guard to go for it.
Yet it would have been so easy for Sieg to mold one the right size.
Perhaps if we all pester their tech support they'll put out a 7"
accessory guard. And if we all returned our machines to suppliers for
refunds (not 7" as advertised) they'll fit them for free! Dream on...

John

On the HF, the lathe guard mount itself is 3" from the chuck center.
In order to turn something larger then 6", you would need to permanently
remove it.

Thank You, Mike, now I've got a clearer picture of the machine.
That would mean you cannot simply unscrew the guard because the rod would
stay in place.
Would it be possible to cut off part of the rod and modify the guard in a
way it would fit safely on the remaining piece? That would let you keep that
'safety feature' of the machine during normal work, to have it quickly
removed only when it prevents you from doing the job.

Marcello