开云体育

Hi FRI,

If you can get the wench to pick up your socks & jocks, you're doing
above average. No way mine's likely to clean up chips and curly
metal swarf too!

Many remove the rear splash guard for improved work access. I
haven't but I'd probably replace it with a sheet of something
further back - to catch flicks of lubricant, etc. I've contemplated
a perspex barrier up front. Sometimes I think a travelling guard on
the toolpost would let me get closer to the work but I'm sure I'd
spend my life cleaning it. I'll stick to safety glasses.

I use a bristle paint brush and dust pan to clean up the bulk of
swarf and finish off with an old vacuum cleaner that sits under the
bench. Wouldn't dare borrow the household one.

I find I can't let the vac pick up much of the curly stuff or I end
up with a curly log jam in the hose which is a monstrous PITA to
clear. What do others do? Are there purpose shop vacs that do this
better?

John

PS: It's not recommended to use compressed air to clean up as it
jams the swarf hard into crevices. Besides, you really can't control
where they go with any accuracy and they won't land in the bin.




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "fricebe" <fricebe@...> wrote:

hi all
I'm a cliff dweller and have a 7x12 on order. I think I must

construct

some sort of enclosure to contain the fly-offs. (have to get along
with the lady that cleans up)
anyone got a design, or just suggestions.....
thanks
FRI

Where are you going to be using your lathe? NOT in the kitchen, I
hope! <g> Seriously though, you're likely to have swarf everywhere,
and it's a good idea to have a spaced devoted to metalworking.

My enclosure is an 8'x12' shed I built out in my backyard...

I use the chip guard that came standard with my lathe (which is
attached to the backside of the lathe,) but I don't use the chip pan
(the one that goes beneath the lathe) because I have a dedicated space
and my lathe is bolted to my bench for stability.

Some guys don't even bother with the chip guard, but I find that it
helps me contain the swarf a bit, so it makes for easier cleanup.
Still, I find swarf behind the lathe, under the lathe, on the floor,
sometimes in my clothes, shoes, hair, etc.

Best of luck,
Mark

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <jgrounds@...> wrote:

I purchased the wood rest package from LMS also. Most of the time I

put a round bar in the tool post since it is quick and most of the
time I am just putting the final contours on the piece being worked
on. Here is a photo:

In sharing that pix with a friend of mine and after looking over the
chisels Barry pointed me at, the same place had pen kits, something of
casual interest to me.

I was just wondering if the threaded rod in the chuck was a mandrel
for something like that? If not, I'll bet it would work!

Not sure how to drill out the blanks though, a three jaw chuck I don't
think would work.

Jenny gave me a couple pen kits (no wood, but I have some that would
do nicely) and I still have them in the back pocket of my suitcase,
which is sorta the motivation here :).

Thanks for stirring up the gray matter!

Take care, Vikki.

Here in the USA you can buy alum in the spice section of grocery
stores. It works because it's an acid that attacks the steel but
doesn't harm the aluminum. In horological school we used it all the
time to disolve tiny steel screws that had broken off in brass watch
bridges. It works SLOWLY. Generally it would take a full day of
boiling to disolve one tiny screw. You can speed things up by using
sulfuric acid (available locally in concentrated form from most
hardware stores where it is sold as a drain cleaner). It will work
much quicker than alum and won't harm aluminum. Oddly it will work
quicker if cut 50/50 with distilled water. If you have a steel screw
or bit broken off in brass, I would not recomend using sulfuric acid.
It that case you have to stick with with the slower acting alum.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@...> wrote:

Hi All,
Thanks for all the help youi gave me on these two matters - I have
resolved the casting problem by getting replacements. Alum is a bit
hard to find here!

I managed to get good service from Machine Mart to put the lathe
right, although a couple of items I asked for (like drive belts) are
out of stock till next year

But at least I am back in business again (:o)
Regards
Ken

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "david" <davidalan@l...> wrote:

for spare parts i ring the machine mart parts line, pay by switch

and take

delivery via post. always had good service and plenty of help
DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@l...
l

John wrote......Get the length right. Cut it too short and you'll have problems ejecting the arbor.......

It is not too difficult to braze a small piece of metal on the end to make up the difference and it does not have to be cosmetic.
HTH
Ellis

Hello all,
I have been lerking on the group for about a month now this is my first
post. I have a HF 7X10 mini and a Grizzly Mini Mill and my main
interest is building model steam engines. However my brother came to me
the other day wanting me to make a part that has a half round hole. I
have no idea how to do this. Is there a way to do this with either my
mill or lathe? Do I need to get a broach set? All the keyway broach
sets that I have seen make round holes with that square bit in the
middle. Thanks In Advance, I look forward to any help that may be
provided.

Rodney.

Another thing: My tail stock chuck will not eject. It's too short. I
note others are cutting them shorter. Hmmmmm?
I just stick a wrench between the chuck and the tail stock frame as a
wedge and eject it that way. David

Several of my MT-2s that I shortened a little too aggressively have a
aluminium disc epoxied to the end to make them eject. I used one of
those "cold weld" type super epoxies but I'm sure anything will work.
Naturally the ends were clean & serrated since they were freshly ground.

Might be worth the bother some evening?

hi all
I'm a cliff dweller and have a 7x12 on order. I think I must construct
some sort of enclosure to contain the fly-offs. (have to get along
with the lady that cleans up)
anyone got a design, or just suggestions.....
thanks
FRI

Hello.
Took me about 2 hours!!
Good exercise?
Removed the tang and about 5mm of main body.
Paul

It only took me about 2mins to cut of the tang. I used a thin 41/2"
metal cutting disc that I bought from machine mart. Lots of sparks
but it cut it easily.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wireless_paul" <paul@...>
wrote:

Hi All.
Have just used a hacksaw for shortening an Arbor. Held it in the

vice

using the Tang then used six junior hacksaw blades and a lot of
effort!. Used a junior hacksaw as I had plenty of them in stock and
they are cheaper than using a 12" blade. Must buy myself a powered
Hacksaw, the type that takes a normal blade. Finished of on a
grinding wheel. Looks OK.
Paul

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>

wrote:

Hi John,

Some have used a Dremel. I used an angle grinder and cleaned up

on the

bench grinder. Yes, it's hard. I initially tried a hacksaw but

blunted

it rather quickly. Get the length right. Cut it too short and

you'll

have problems ejecting the arbor.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@> wrote:

Hi All,

I want to remove the tang from the morse taper that holds my

drill

chuck in the tail stock. I assume it is hard steel. I have a

hacksaw ,

metal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I could buy a

metal

cutting blade for.

An suggestions as the best method ?

John

Yes, John, you have. But in a good way. It will save me a 2nd order
later. Thanks to others for your input.

I've added:

2644 Clamps for the faceplate
1222 Chuck studs & nuts
1655 Oil fittings
1773 Spare dial springs
2633 Tailstock clamp spring (is this needed on the 8x12?)
2743 Thread gauge
1551 Cutoff tool holder
1929 Cutoff blade (should I order 2?)
1240 Center Finder
1730 Sissor Knurler

I guess I'm holding off on the steady rest & follower rests.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Apart from obvious items I now have #2644 clamps for the faceplate,
#1222 chuck studs & nuts, #1655 oil fittings for the leadscrew (my
Sieg doesn't come with those), #1773 spare dial springs, #2633
spring to make the tailstock clamp stay put, some pitch gauges and

a

protractor for setting the compound.

Have I padded your order up yet? <G>

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

. . .
I'm putting together what I want to order for accessories and

other

bits. I'm currently looking at:

(LMS ____) 1 Sync Tooth belt (550m)
(LMS ____) 1 V belt (0-720)

(LMS ____) Steady Rest
(LMS 1198) Follower Rest
(LMS ____) Face Plate
(LMS 2346) 5" 4-jaw chuck
(LMS 2925) Dial Ind. Test Ind., Mag. base
(LMS ____) Knurling Tool
(LMS 1189) Live Center
(LMS 1246) Boring Bar Set
(LMS 1261) Accessory set
(LMS ____) Cut off tool (parting tool)

Do I need extras:
Extra Center Drills (LMS 1230)
Turning Tool Set (LMS 2412)

Any suggestions or missing LMS part #s would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Rance

Mine is marked L - O - R

I sort of figured that to mean Left, Off, Right. I dunno? Been wrong
before.

Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "David" <dhnoyes@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "troyscon" troyscon@ wrote:

.....the cross slide dial on your lathe will be wrong. It
will say.002 when it is actually .001......

Well that confirms a mystery for me! The other thing that puzzled me
was that the "Forward" and "Reverse" label on the power switch is
backwards. I sort of *thought* the tool cutting edge was supposed to

be

up where it could be seen. :-)

Another thing: My tail stock chuck will not eject. It's too short. I
note others are cutting them shorter. Hmmmmm?
I just stick a wrench between the chuck and the tail stock frame as a
wedge and eject it that way. David

Anyone know of any coupons currently aplicable for LMS?

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "troyscon" <troyscon@...> wrote:

.....the cross slide dial on your lathe will be wrong. It
will say.002 when it is actually .001......

Well that confirms a mystery for me! The other thing that puzzled me
was that the "Forward" and "Reverse" label on the power switch is
backwards. I sort of *thought* the tool cutting edge was supposed to be
up where it could be seen. :-)

Another thing: My tail stock chuck will not eject. It's too short. I
note others are cutting them shorter. Hmmmmm?
I just stick a wrench between the chuck and the tail stock frame as a
wedge and eject it that way. David

Hi All.
Have just used a hacksaw for shortening an Arbor. Held it in the vice
using the Tang then used six junior hacksaw blades and a lot of
effort!. Used a junior hacksaw as I had plenty of them in stock and
they are cheaper than using a 12" blade. Must buy myself a powered
Hacksaw, the type that takes a normal blade. Finished of on a
grinding wheel. Looks OK.
Paul

by the way broked centre drills can be converted into nice flat bottom drills by grinding the tip square and putting a bit of relief on the citting edges

Gerry
Leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Basic problem?
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:19:40 -0000

Hi Ken,

Someone (possibly on this forum) had a neat idea after breaking the
tip of a centre drill. They re-ground the thicker remaining stub to
gouge AROUND the broke small tip. This allowed access to get hold of
the broken piece to reverse it out.

Is that viable in this case? Maybe use the stub of an old (broken)
drill bit. Needs to be stumpy and solid. Butcher's technique but may
save a casting.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "machinest80"
<machinest80@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in

a

steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a must, this kind

of

metal welds to the drill bit quick.

_________________________________________________________________
Get Hotmail, News, Sport and Entertainment from MSN on your mobile.

Vicki Ford has a piece on doing this (with photo) on her website. Don't know the link straight off but it is in the links section of www.mini-lathe.com along with some other neat stuff.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Basic problem?
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:19:40 -0000

Hi Ken,

Someone (possibly on this forum) had a neat idea after breaking the
tip of a centre drill. They re-ground the thicker remaining stub to
gouge AROUND the broke small tip. This allowed access to get hold of
the broken piece to reverse it out.

Is that viable in this case? Maybe use the stub of an old (broken)
drill bit. Needs to be stumpy and solid. Butcher's technique but may
save a casting.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "machinest80"
<machinest80@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in

a

steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a must, this kind

of

metal welds to the drill bit quick.

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Hotmail is evolving - check out the new Windows Live Mail.

Hi Ken,

Someone (possibly on this forum) had a neat idea after breaking the
tip of a centre drill. They re-ground the thicker remaining stub to
gouge AROUND the broke small tip. This allowed access to get hold of
the broken piece to reverse it out.

Is that viable in this case? Maybe use the stub of an old (broken)
drill bit. Needs to be stumpy and solid. Butcher's technique but may
save a casting.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "machinest80"
<machinest80@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in

a

steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a must, this kind

of

metal welds to the drill bit quick.

Hi John,

Some have used a Dremel. I used an angle grinder and cleaned up on the
bench grinder. Yes, it's hard. I initially tried a hacksaw but blunted
it rather quickly. Get the length right. Cut it too short and you'll
have problems ejecting the arbor.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@...> wrote:

Hi All,

I want to remove the tang from the morse taper that holds my drill
chuck in the tail stock. I assume it is hard steel. I have a

hacksaw ,

metal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I could buy a metal
cutting blade for.

An suggestions as the best method ?

John

Use Alum to etch them out.


--- machinest80 <machinest80@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken
Appleby"
<captkenn@...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped

me! While drilling
on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two

separate holes in a

steam engine alluminium casting. They have both

broken off flush so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a

lot of space

around them. I have thought of over-drilling the

whole lot out (if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it

flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another

way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a
must, this kind of
metal welds to the drill bit quick.

____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss an email again!
Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives.