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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

I doubt there is a "best" plastic for turning. Most of the less heat
sensitive plastics turn nicely if you use very sharp bits with low
rake and modest rpm -- plastic will self-feed like brass so zero or
negative rake helps if you take deep cuts. Regular bits work OK for
shallow cuts.

I've had good luck with: Delrin, nylon, HDPE, and polysulfone. These
are not too sensitive to heat but they do make long, stringy swarf.
Tufnol is less temperature sensitive and turns to dust rather than
strings - excellent for pulleys and gears.

Lucite is very temperature sensitive so it is much more difficult but
with care it can be used for lenses.

PVC turns OK, is a bit temperature sensitive and often has impurities
that produce surprising tool wear.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wireless_paul" <paul@> wrote:

Wondered what the best plastic was for turning?
Paul

Thanks for information John.
Someone made me a couple of feet for a vintage communications receiver
out of black plastic. Better than the original (which were lost)
ones. Now I have my lathe (just one week old!) fancied having a go for
some of my other receivers.
Had a look at your Web site, most impressed, will have to study it in
more detail.
Paul

Hi guys,



last night I've spent some hours trying to improve the cross table gibs of
my mini mill. Dismounting the x-axis I've notice that gib was bent, so using
the drill press I have straightened it. Then, using the belt sander, I've
smoothed the dovetail-side surface of the gib taking care to keep it
parallel to the other one as was at the beginning. I've spent about half an
hour, using as small pressure as I can on the gib and changing often the
orientation in respect of the belt movement. At last I've used a special
rubber abrasive disk on my dremel to mirror-lap the contact surface of the
gib.

Then

I've mounted it on, registered the screws and tried the table movement. It
is smoother than before. I've then measured the movement of the table in
tightening the locking screw. My quality digital comparator reports 0.035 mm
(about 0.0015"). In the past it was much more, I don't know how much. No
matter, it could be acceptable since I'm going to install a digital scale on
the x axis.

So

I've done a careful look at the gib in place and. surprise. the gib surface
do not adheres completely to the dovetail surface. I've done a look to all
other gibs, in the mill and in the lathe. No other one was perfectly plane
aligned. To be more precise either gib surface and dovetail one are good
flat plane, the problem is the alignment between the top side and bottom
one. When I tight the set screws the gib adheres only in the bottom part of
its plane with the bottom part of the dovetail plane (in some gibs the
planes are the upper ones). Practically I've discovered that the pressure
between gibs and dovetail is not over the entire planes but only on a thin
line, all gib / dovetail long, of contact between them.

Now my questions are:

Is it normal? I've expected a complete planes contact.

There is someone has noticed the same thing on his machine?

If it is an abnormal situation, which could be the cause and which the
solution?



Gianni










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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

That really doesn't seem all that far out of line, to me. When being run
continously, most motors will be nearly hot to the touch. Generally, if
you can place your hand on them and count to 2, without being burned,
nothing will be hurt in the motor. I guess I should really check some of
my larger ones with an IR temp gun after they have run for a couple
hours, but I'd be surprised if they didn't run at least that warm.

Just looked at the plate on one of my water pump motors. That one is
thermally protected for 40C above ambient.

Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "druid_noibn" <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi All,

For those who might find it "interesting" 鈥� I noticed the motor of
the HF 8x12-14 was a tad warm and thought a check was in order.

With a motor and ambient temp of 65F the lathe was turned on 鈥� no
metal turning. The probe was located on the upper part of the motor
housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes 鈥� temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes 鈥� 49.7F;
46 minutes 鈥� 58.1F;
63 minutes 鈥� 63F 鈥� shut-down motor
66 minutes 鈥� 65.7F

I didn't run the motor unloaded yet.

So the motor runs hot - an auxiliary fan might be in order.

Take care,
DBN

I doubt there is a "best" plastic for turning. Most of the less heat
sensitive plastics turn nicely if you use very sharp bits with low
rake and modest rpm -- plastic will self-feed like brass so zero or
negative rake helps if you take deep cuts. Regular bits work OK for
shallow cuts.

I've had good luck with: Delrin, nylon, HDPE, and polysulfone. These
are not too sensitive to heat but they do make long, stringy swarf.
Tufnol is less temperature sensitive and turns to dust rather than
strings - excellent for pulleys and gears.

Lucite is very temperature sensitive so it is much more difficult but
with care it can be used for lenses.

PVC turns OK, is a bit temperature sensitive and often has impurities
that produce surprising tool wear.

John

Delrin (also called acetal) is a good one...just be sure to turn any
plastic slowly...

-------

Chris, the C-shaped hole in my Warco one is 2.25" diameter, approx, and the "fingers" can be withdrawn sufficiently to make full use of that space. So, theoretically it would just do it, (though I haven't checked to see if the hole is concentric to the lathe's centre line). My travelling steady is the same.
Could you make up a plug which is a running fit inside the tube, with a mandrel to be gripped in a tailstock chuck, or is your tube too long to allow room for the chuck? Maybe a similar plug, bored to fit over the tailstock sleeve? If all else fails, could you knock something up out of wood with brass fingers, if it's a one-off job?
Andy

Chris Eilbeck <chris@...> wrote:
What's the maximum diameter of material I could fit in a fixed steady?
I need to true the ends of a piece of 2.125" tube but it's way to
long to just run in the chuck without any additional support. I'll
have to mail order a steady but I can't get any scale from the on-line
pictures of the device. Are there any other ways of doing this if I
can't just use a fixed steady?

Cheers

Chris






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Wondered what the best plastic was for turning?
Paul

If I remember correctly, the fixed steady will handle stock slightly
over 1" in diameter. An expanding mandrel is what you want for this
application. Somebody here pointed me to an automotive tailpipe
expander as an inexpensive alternative. I bought one at Harbor
Freight, and it works like a charm for this application. HF sells them
in three sizes, here's a link to the small one...



Alternatively, you can probably find one of these at your local auto
supply store, if needed immediately...

Mark

Hi Rance,

You can purchase the 125mm 4-jaw chuck from HF when you buy the lathe cost is about $58 and the shipping would be included with your purchase; likewise for any other accessories. The 4-jaw chuck does not have a part-number - you need to order it by description.

Take care,
DBN


rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote:
I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self centering or
independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that independent
jaws is what I want. Should I get the biggest that my lathe & pocket
book can handle? Price IS a consideration to me. Any recommendations
for a 5" (specific part #'s please)? Thanks. :)

Rance






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Hi Chris,

"Interesting" is right. Consider the rig new - there are no chips or other obstructions to airflow. The ambient temp is low and the load was the pulleys, gears and and unloaded lathe chuck - no cutting. The system was checked for binding - none found, all items are running smooth.

That temp rise is significant and suggests a poorly constructed motor or an underpowered unit. As time permits, I'll run a few more diagnostics, e.g., free-running motor.

Take care,
DBN


Chris <house582@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "druid_noibn" <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi All,

For those who might find it "interesting" 鈥� I noticed the motor of
the HF 8x12-14 was a tad warm and thought a check was in order.

With a motor and ambient temp of 65F the lathe was turned on 鈥� no
metal turning. The probe was located on the upper part of the

motor

housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes 鈥� temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes 鈥� 49.7F;
46 minutes 鈥� 58.1F;
63 minutes 鈥� 63F 鈥� shut-down motor
66 minutes 鈥� 65.7F

I didn't run the motor unloaded yet.

So the motor runs hot - an auxiliary fan might be in order.

Take care,
DBN

Interesting find you would think it would be cooler than that can not
have much air opening and also let chips in though. Maybe a small
comp fan and a fine screen to keep material out opie






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What's the maximum diameter of material I could fit in a fixed steady?
I need to true the ends of a piece of 2.125" tube but it's way to
long to just run in the chuck without any additional support. I'll
have to mail order a steady but I can't get any scale from the on-line
pictures of the device. Are there any other ways of doing this if I
can't just use a fixed steady?

Cheers

Chris

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self centering or
independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that independent
jaws is what I want. Should I get the biggest that my lathe & pocket
book can handle? Price IS a consideration to me. Any recommendations
for a 5" (specific part #'s please)? Thanks. :)

Rance

Rance,

without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only way to go with the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible (compared with larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that most of the forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the spindle, bearings ,slides etc.

Although it would be a relatively easy project I would suggest that you have done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.

The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like (identical even) the smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.

I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for everything I have needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various knobs up to 1 1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally and brass. Finer knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or so but all my results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be disappointed with it.

There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align throught the centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and apply plenty of cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you go until you get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft just slowly traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening form time to time at either of the ends.

If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to the premium content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers basic lathe operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words and pics and idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my lathe 3 years since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have spent.

No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that they are there for us mini-lathe types.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "rancerupp" <rupps@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls and make my
own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the whole tool
would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just a
beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just the 'average'
knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs. fixed)
would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction on what
you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for me. Mine
will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a problem
for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

_________________________________________________________________
Upload 500 photos a month & blog with your Messenger buddies on Windows Live Spaces. Get yours now, FREE!

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

I thought Carbide would be better but HSS seems to cost more. Why? And
which one should I opt for? To tell you the truth, I'm thinking that
the inserts would be the best route. But picking the right ones out
seems to be a nightmare.

I expect I'll be turning mostly alum. but also brass, copper, and a
little bit of steel.

Rance

Hi,

I'm newebie and wonder if this minilathe carries any
kinda of NORTON gearbox.

Neverthless any equivalent alternative would be OK
mostly if done with a reasonably priced substitute.

Intend turning a 3/4 " hole within a PVC cylinder.

That PVC female receptable should to fit a 3/4" piece
of std plastic cold water pipe cutted to a lenght of 1
1/4" .

Bests,

Veni


--- 7x12minilathe@... wrote:
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I got a free microwave and want to take it apart but
need to be sure i do it safely. Have heard about the
residual build up of voltage in the capacitor.

Can someone give me a procedure to properly discharge
it so I can begin?

Any other things to watch out for?

Thanks very mcuh,
Rick in CO

The capacitors have a bleed resistor to remove the charge, but put a
screwdriver (insulated) across the terminals anyway.

Apart from that, the transformers are bloody heavy, and if you extract the
magnets from the magnetron, try not to get your fingers caught between
them.

Tony

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls and make my
own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the whole tool
would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just a
beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just the 'average'
knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs. fixed)
would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction on what
you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for me. Mine
will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a problem
for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction on what you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for me. Mine will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a problem for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 06:16:12 -0000

Hi Mike,

Agreed. I just ordered a scissor type from LMS with exactly that
thought in mind.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri <miket--
nyc@...> wrote:

I bought a pair of knurls a year or two ago, but I haven't made a
knurling tool yet (which will be of the "scissors" type. Using the
"traditional" type would be pushing your luck on these little

lathes).

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 11:11:22 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Hi Mike,

Yep, I think you've established the rear slide wears most but

not

rapidly. I'm still planning to shim & lap my original slides

like

you. I did forget the other major source of lifting forces on

that

back slide - a traditional knurling tool being pressed into the

work

via toolpost pressure. I take it you don't use one of those. :-)

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri <miket--
nyc@> wrote:

On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 01:36:40 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@> writes:

There shouldn't be excessive forces. After all, the only

load

bearing on that surface is when the carriage tries to lift -

usually

while using a milling adapter with the carriage stationary.

Gravity

works the other way.

Actually, this isn't quite true. There's a force lifting the

rear

of the

carriage whenever the tool is cutting the outside of the work

(i.e., not

when making a facing cut). Therefore, you should expect the

rear

to wear

more than the front on the bottom (and perhaps the front to

wear

more on

the top).

When I lapped my dovetails and the underside of the bed in

2002,

I

changed the gib retention system under the carriage to shims,

using the

original gibs. Within a year or so, the rear of the carriage

got

a bit

loose and I had to take out 1-2 thousandths of shimming, but

the

front

didn't need that treatment until late 2006. Obviously, this

isn't

too

shabby, even for the rear, but I still expect it will always

wear

more

than the front. If the underside of the rear ever wears to

the

point

that some parts are looser than others, I can just relap the

rear

of the

bed by sliding the carriage back and forth with abrasives on

the

underside, after removing enough shims in the back so it drags

slightly.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

Be sure to check out for small
mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links

_________________________________________________________________
Get Messenger FREE on your Mobile

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction on what you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for me. Mine will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a problem for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 06:16:12 -0000

Hi Mike,

Agreed. I just ordered a scissor type from LMS with exactly that
thought in mind.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri <miket--
nyc@...> wrote:

I bought a pair of knurls a year or two ago, but I haven't made a
knurling tool yet (which will be of the "scissors" type. Using the
"traditional" type would be pushing your luck on these little

lathes).

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 11:11:22 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@...> writes:

Hi Mike,

Yep, I think you've established the rear slide wears most but

not

rapidly. I'm still planning to shim & lap my original slides

like

you. I did forget the other major source of lifting forces on

that

back slide - a traditional knurling tool being pressed into the

work

via toolpost pressure. I take it you don't use one of those. :-)

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri <miket--
nyc@> wrote:

On Wed, 07 Mar 2007 01:36:40 -0000 "born4something"
<ajs@> writes:

There shouldn't be excessive forces. After all, the only

load

bearing on that surface is when the carriage tries to lift -

usually

while using a milling adapter with the carriage stationary.

Gravity

works the other way.

Actually, this isn't quite true. There's a force lifting the

rear

of the

carriage whenever the tool is cutting the outside of the work

(i.e., not

when making a facing cut). Therefore, you should expect the

rear

to wear

more than the front on the bottom (and perhaps the front to

wear

more on

the top).

When I lapped my dovetails and the underside of the bed in

2002,

I

changed the gib retention system under the carriage to shims,

using the

original gibs. Within a year or so, the rear of the carriage

got

a bit

loose and I had to take out 1-2 thousandths of shimming, but

the

front

didn't need that treatment until late 2006. Obviously, this

isn't

too

shabby, even for the rear, but I still expect it will always

wear

more

than the front. If the underside of the rear ever wears to

the

point

that some parts are looser than others, I can just relap the

rear

of the

bed by sliding the carriage back and forth with abrasives on

the

underside, after removing enough shims in the back so it drags

slightly.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

Be sure to check out for small
mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links

_________________________________________________________________
Upload 500 photos a month & blog with your Messenger buddies on Windows Live Spaces. Get yours now, FREE!

There is a large capacitor connected to the magnetron
circuit (usually thick red wire) short across its
termials with a well insulated screwdriver and hold
for a couple of seconds. If the microwave has not been
used for some time then their should not be any charge
on the capacitor anyway. The magnets around the
magnetron are usefull. After unscrewing the mounting
screws and cutting the wires you need to remove the
screening lid on the base to allow access to cut the
heater wires so that when you leaver off the end
plates (first prize opent the 'C' slot that holds the
plates in place) you can extract the magnetron tube
from the assembly and remove the magnets. The
magentron is glass and under vacuum so wear protection
so that if it should break you are well protected.
After removing the couple of turns for the heater
winding I found the best way to remove the secondary
windings was to use a slitting saw in a dremmel clone
cutting close to the laminations. You can then punch
out the cut stack. Protect the primary windings (and
your fingers) as the slitting saw does have a mind of
its own. And then just
The relay that is mounted on the PCB can also be
usefull as it has a high current rating for its
contacts.




--- rick201m <rick201m@...> wrote:

I got a free microwave and want to take it apart but
need to be sure i do it safely. Have heard about
the
residual build up of voltage in the capacitor.

Can someone give me a procedure to properly
discharge
it so I can begin?

Any other things to watch out for?

Thanks very mcuh,
Rick in CO

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