Re: possible worm gear & some bike stuff
Loctite makes a product that can salvage things when that happens:
?<??>
Roy
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Have any of a folks tried this stuff ?
thanks
animal
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On 3/27/24 4:04 PM, Charles wrote: If you want to know what the pros use on million dollar molds to keep them from rusting when in storage.
Along with machine parts.
This is it. It does work I have seen this used for years. If it is good enough for molds that cost in the millions of dollars that sit in storage in storage containers and warehouses or shipped around the world. It will work for whatever you need I am pretty confident without any special environment.
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I haven't used LPS-3...
I have way oil for the ways and gibs on multiple machines because it sticks real well.?
Since I have way oil, I have not searched for an alternative since I have plenty of way oil.
I have used WD-40 to get protective coatings off of metal but WD-40 is too easy to break the coating with any handling, so I never use WD-40 to protect.?
Way oil sticks way better (been waiting to use that)...
On Wed, Mar 27, 2024 at 02:09 PM, soffee83 wrote:
Been meaning to get back in here for a week.? :(
So, I see the way oil recommended over the LPS-3 here?
I would be interested to see how many of those who have recommended way oil, WD-40, ox gall, etc. have actually *used* LPS-3 or equivalent corrosion preventative for preventing corrosion.
Kurt Laughlin
--
Buffalo John
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On Wed, Mar 27, 2024 at 02:09 PM, soffee83 wrote:
Been meaning to get back in here for a week.? :(
So, I see the way oil recommended over the LPS-3 here?
I would be interested to see how many of those who have recommended way oil, WD-40, ox gall, etc. have actually *used* LPS-3 or equivalent corrosion preventative for preventing corrosion. Kurt Laughlin
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If you want to know what the pros use on million dollar molds to keep them from rusting when in storage.
Along with machine parts.
This is it. It does work I have seen this used for years. If it is good enough for molds that cost in the millions of dollars that sit in storage in storage containers and warehouses or shipped around the world. It will work for whatever you need I am pretty confident without any special environment.
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Grainger has been real good & fast with all my orders .
Usually if I order by 4 PM it's in the building at 10 AM the next
morning . They have gotten much better than they were with pricing
years ago .
animal
On 3/27/24 3:14 PM, soffee83 via
groups.io wrote:
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Thanks guys!
Chrisser- I'll probably stick with the oil just to have something
a bunch of others seem to like.
I did see the #2 when I was looking, but didn't know how much
difference that made. There was another good deal on a twenty
dollar jug of way oil, but it only gave a viscosity spec. I have
been to a Grainger here (if we still have it). I may do that if
nothing easier turns up.
Thanks Again
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WD-40 is a sticky wax in a light petroleum carrier. When it dries, the carrier evaporates leaving the waxy coat on the surface. So it shouldn't be necessary to keep reapplying it.
Mike Taglieri?
On Tue, Mar 12, 2024, 11:28 PM Charles Kinzer < ckinzer@...> wrote:
Regarding the comment, "You just need to refresh the WD-40 before it evaporates.".
That would very strongly suggest to me NOT to use something that evaporates for bare metal protection long term, or even short term.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Tuesday, March 12, 2024 at 08:21:07 PM PDT, mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? There was a time that if we needed to use either on a diesel
we would grab a can of WD instead of the quick start . We had a
mechanic tell up it was better for the engine than the quick start
. Now a days I seriously doubt ya could even get a diesel to pop
on WD .
animal
Never been a fan of wd40. Though in the 70s I would spray
our entire dirt bikes with it. Helped get the bikes clean
later due to the hawaiian red clay dirt. But it also caused me
to constantly check all the bolts as they would prematurely
come loose. But other than that, not much use for it. Well,
now for cutting aluminum.
george
On Tuesday, March 12, 2024 at 06:49:56 PM PDT, Ralph
Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
You just need to refresh the WD-40
before it evaporates.
chrisser 1:16pm? ?
Realistically, it's outside.
Essentially a barn with garage doors and a
concrete floor
They do make a protective coating.
You use long term storage or over sea shipping
works great?
But take to remove before the lathe can be used.?
The #4 waylube will last for 2 or 3 months in
summer and winter upto 6 months before
recovering.??
The upside to waylube is lathe ready to used.
Dave?
?
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Thanks guys!
Chrisser- I'll probably stick with the oil just to have something a bunch of others seem to like.
I did see the #2 when I was looking, but didn't know how much difference that made. There was another good deal on a twenty dollar jug of way oil, but it only gave a viscosity spec. I have been to a Grainger here (if we still have it). I may do that if nothing easier turns up.
Thanks Again
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??? ??? If there's a WW Grainger in yer area they have pretty
much all & any oil's that ya will ever need .
animal
On 3/27/24 12:46 PM, BuffaloJohn wrote:
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If you search for way oil, there are sellers on amazon and
ebay and other places that offer quarts, gallons, and pails.
You can also add ISO 68 to the search parameters. Mobil Vactra
#2 is one such. I bought a pail of way oli years ago and I'll
probably leave quite a bit for inheritance, but the pail was
cheap at the time if I remember...
I saw a gallon for $43 including shipping (ebay). There are
also smaller quantities.
Been
meaning to get back in here for a week.? :(
So, I see the way oil recommended over the LPS-3
here? Is there a particular #4 I can try in small quantity
(sub-30 dollar range)? I've got an Amazon account with free
shipping, but I'll get it wherever I need to.
Thanks!
PS- One of the things stopping me from dragging the big
dehumidifier out there is the same worry I had when I needed
an air conditioner. The room is small and packed with metal
AND woodworking tools and materials, and I figure most of
those appliances weren't really intended for that environment.
The AC typically only runs once in a while, when I'm in there,
but the dehumidifier would likely be unattended (it has a
drain hose attachment). Any of you guys run one under similar
conditions, and am I likely to send it to an early grave with
all that dust?
--
Buffalo John
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There's also a product called Sta-bil Rust Stopper.? I can't find the video but there was a comparison on Youtube.? Supposedly comparable to LPS3.? Also one called Fluid Film that is supposedly readily available in chain stores and it gets good reviews.
Saw multiple vids about Fluid Film but the guy comparing Rust Stopper? had good results with plain WD40, which has not performed well for me, so I don't know how valid it is.
On Wednesday, March 27th, 2024 at 2:09 PM, soffee83 via groups.io <soffee83@...> wrote:
Been meaning to get back in here for a week.? :(
So, I see the way oil recommended over the LPS-3 here? Is there a particular #4 I can try in small quantity (sub-30 dollar range)? I've got an Amazon account with free shipping, but I'll get it wherever I need to.
Thanks!
PS- One of the things stopping me from dragging the big dehumidifier out there is the same worry I had when I needed an air conditioner. The room is small and packed with metal AND woodworking tools and materials, and I figure most of those appliances weren't really intended for that environment. The AC typically only runs once in a while, when I'm in there, but the dehumidifier would likely be unattended (it has a drain hose attachment). Any of you guys run one under similar conditions, and am I likely to send it to an early grave with all that dust?
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Re: possible worm gear & some bike talk
A good friend of mine and skilled bike and motorcycle mechanic still rides a house paint painted custom built framed bike with a S-A five speed. He sprints around town on it and no one?pays it the least attention! I have an older Royal (Dutch Raligh) that?cost me $5 at a garage sale. Also a S-A Dynohub that provides light at a walking pace.
On Wed, Mar 27, 2024 at 11:57?AM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
Can ya imagine just how stoked we would have been to have youtube
the first time we openend up a Sturmey-Archer Hum or a gear
cluster . A lot less lost ball bearings that are still lost today
.
animal
On 3/27/24 9:03 AM, Bill Williams
wrote:
I machined a custom Sturmey-Archer Hub Shell back
in the day! I also produced for a local hardware store custom
axle nuts for S-A hub Axles!
On Mon, Mar 25, 2024 at
8:24?PM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
Back in the day if yer bike came with Mafac brakes it
also came with a little tool set maybe the size of a pack
of regular cigs . That little tool kit & Crescent
wrench were the only tools some bikes ever saw during
their lifetime after getting bucked in the bike shop . A
lot has changed in the bike world since I left it .
thanks
animal
On 3/25/24 5:17 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
At least today the pedels all use
the same thread. ? But so much else is totally custom.?
Like the tapered-head titanium cap screws. ? One newish
innovation is that all the screws on my bike are marked
with a ¡°Min and Max torque¡± value. Something like ¡°5 - 7
newton meters¡± by every screw. ? ?I think this happened
when they went with carbon fiber.
I have NEVER heard of anyone usimng machine tools to
work on a bicycle. ? It is just not done.
Back when I was still into bikes &
Campagnolo ruled everyone had to use different
threads in their bottom brackets & pedals
. I had/have a Set of TA cranks & chain
wheels & the threads were different
between? TA , to Stronglite , &? Campy
crank sets . I was so pissed when my new to me
Campy blacktop pedals wouldn't fit the cranks
. It's actually probably good that I didn't
have a mini lathe or any lathe & mill for
that mater back then. I'm sure I would have
ruined a lot of expensive parts by fixing them
.
animal
On 3/25/24 2:05 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
The
thing about bicycle parts is that they use
a lot of non-common threads and gear
profiles and screws with custom head
shapes, not to mention exotic metals and
tempering. ? for example, you can look at
a standard bottom bracket and find?34.92mm
diameter threads.? Not a hardware store
size.? You might measure and?think
¡°35mm¡± and be wrong. ??
I don't know the specs on
the gear you need but, there is a good
chance is it a custom-size or profile.
|
If you search for way oil, there are sellers on amazon and ebay and other places that offer quarts, gallons, and pails. You can also add ISO 68 to the search parameters. Mobil Vactra #2 is one such. I bought a pail of way oli years ago and I'll probably leave quite a bit for inheritance, but the pail was cheap at the time if I remember...
I saw a gallon for $43 including shipping (ebay). There are also smaller quantities.
Been meaning to get back in here for a week.? :(
So, I see the way oil recommended over the LPS-3 here? Is there a particular #4 I can try in small quantity (sub-30 dollar range)? I've got an Amazon account with free shipping, but I'll get it wherever I need to.
Thanks!
PS- One of the things stopping me from dragging the big dehumidifier out there is the same worry I had when I needed an air conditioner. The room is small and packed with metal AND woodworking tools and materials, and I figure most of those appliances weren't really intended for that environment. The AC typically only runs once in a while, when I'm in there, but the dehumidifier would likely be unattended (it has a drain hose attachment). Any of you guys run one under similar conditions, and am I likely to send it to an early grave with all that dust?
--
Buffalo John
|
Been meaning to get back in here for a week.? :(
So, I see the way oil recommended over the LPS-3 here? Is there a particular #4 I can try in small quantity (sub-30 dollar range)? I've got an Amazon account with free shipping, but I'll get it wherever I need to.
Thanks!
PS- One of the things stopping me from dragging the big dehumidifier out there is the same worry I had when I needed an air conditioner. The room is small and packed with metal AND woodworking tools and materials, and I figure most of those appliances weren't really intended for that environment. The AC typically only runs once in a while, when I'm in there, but the dehumidifier would likely be unattended (it has a drain hose attachment). Any of you guys run one under similar conditions, and am I likely to send it to an early grave with all that dust?
|
Re: possible worm gear & some bike talk
Can ya imagine just how stoked we would have been to have youtube
the first time we openend up a Sturmey-Archer Hum or a gear
cluster . A lot less lost ball bearings that are still lost today
.
animal
On 3/27/24 9:03 AM, Bill Williams
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I machined a custom Sturmey-Archer Hub Shell back
in the day! I also produced for a local hardware store custom
axle nuts for S-A hub Axles!
On Mon, Mar 25, 2024 at
8:24?PM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
Back in the day if yer bike came with Mafac brakes it
also came with a little tool set maybe the size of a pack
of regular cigs . That little tool kit & Crescent
wrench were the only tools some bikes ever saw during
their lifetime after getting bucked in the bike shop . A
lot has changed in the bike world since I left it .
thanks
animal
On 3/25/24 5:17 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
At least today the pedels all use
the same thread. ? But so much else is totally custom.?
Like the tapered-head titanium cap screws. ? One newish
innovation is that all the screws on my bike are marked
with a ¡°Min and Max torque¡± value. Something like ¡°5 - 7
newton meters¡± by every screw. ? ?I think this happened
when they went with carbon fiber.
I have NEVER heard of anyone usimng machine tools to
work on a bicycle. ? It is just not done.
Back when I was still into bikes &
Campagnolo ruled everyone had to use different
threads in their bottom brackets & pedals
. I had/have a Set of TA cranks & chain
wheels & the threads were different
between? TA , to Stronglite , &? Campy
crank sets . I was so pissed when my new to me
Campy blacktop pedals wouldn't fit the cranks
. It's actually probably good that I didn't
have a mini lathe or any lathe & mill for
that mater back then. I'm sure I would have
ruined a lot of expensive parts by fixing them
.
animal
On 3/25/24 2:05 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
The
thing about bicycle parts is that they use
a lot of non-common threads and gear
profiles and screws with custom head
shapes, not to mention exotic metals and
tempering. ? for example, you can look at
a standard bottom bracket and find?34.92mm
diameter threads.? Not a hardware store
size.? You might measure and?think
¡°35mm¡± and be wrong. ??
I don't know the specs on
the gear you need but, there is a good
chance is it a custom-size or profile.
|
Re: possible worm gear & some bike talk
I machined a custom Sturmey-Archer Hub Shell back in the day! I also produced for a local hardware store custom axle nuts for S-A hub Axles!
On Mon, Mar 25, 2024 at 8:24?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
Back in the day if yer bike came with Mafac brakes it also came
with a little tool set maybe the size of a pack of regular cigs .
That little tool kit & Crescent wrench were the only tools
some bikes ever saw during their lifetime after getting bucked in
the bike shop . A lot has changed in the bike world since I left
it .
thanks
animal
On 3/25/24 5:17 PM, Chris Albertson
wrote:
At least today the pedels all use the same thread. ? But so much
else is totally custom.? Like the tapered-head titanium cap
screws. ? One newish innovation is that all the screws on my bike
are marked with a ¡°Min and Max torque¡± value. Something like ¡°5 -
7 newton meters¡± by every screw. ? ?I think this happened when
they went with carbon fiber.
I have NEVER heard of anyone usimng machine tools to work on
a bicycle. ? It is just not done.
Back when I was still into bikes & Campagnolo
ruled everyone had to use different threads in their
bottom brackets & pedals . I had/have a Set of TA
cranks & chain wheels & the threads were
different between? TA , to Stronglite , &? Campy
crank sets . I was so pissed when my new to me Campy
blacktop pedals wouldn't fit the cranks . It's
actually probably good that I didn't have a mini lathe
or any lathe & mill for that mater back then. I'm
sure I would have ruined a lot of expensive parts by
fixing them .
animal
On 3/25/24 2:05 PM, Chris
Albertson wrote:
The thing
about bicycle parts is that they use a lot of
non-common threads and gear profiles and screws
with custom head shapes, not to mention exotic
metals and tempering. ? for example, you can look
at a standard bottom bracket and find?34.92mm
diameter threads.? Not a hardware store size.? You
might measure and?think ¡°35mm¡±
and be wrong. ??
I don't know
the specs on the gear you need but, there is a
good chance is it a custom-size or profile.
|
Re: possible worm gear & some bike stuff
I have preferred loose over caged bearing due to easier cleaning and you can have more bearings. The cartridge bearings are great as long as they are well seated. If they are not they can trash some very expensive parts such as a frame if the head set bearing get loose in the frame.
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Re: possible worm gear & some bike stuff
"I remain unconvinced bearings are better than cup & cone, I will admit they¡¯re less fiddly to service though."
Actually, I wouldn't say "less fiddly" -- they never need service at all. My 1972 Norton Commando came with sealed headset bearings, but ONLY the headset bearings. All the other ones in the bike needed to be greased (though there are sealed bearings available for them nowadays).
Mike Taglieri?
Same deal applies.? ¡°Better¡± bikes have actual sealed bearings (aka cartridge), the rest have the old school cup & cone assembly.? These days most of them at least have caged balls (probably speeds up assembly) rather than the loose balls where you always lose one. ? Often you¡¯ll have both, a bearing at the top & race at the bottom. ? Wheels can be either bearing or cup & cone, mostly the latter. ? I remain unconvinced bearings are better than cup & cone, I will admit they¡¯re less fiddly to service though. ? Tony ? ? ? How bout head sets ? animal On 3/26/24 6:24 PM, paul mcclintic via wrote: Most of the parts on better bikes have sealed bearings in just about everything, including pedals and derailleur pulleys. The one thing on my 2006 Trek Madona that doesn't are the brake calipers, they have loose ball bearings.
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Re: possible worm gear & some bike stuff
Same deal applies.? ¡°Better¡± bikes have actual sealed bearings (aka cartridge), the rest have the old school cup & cone assembly.? These days most of them at least have caged balls (probably speeds up assembly) rather than the loose balls where you always lose one. ? Often you¡¯ll have both, a bearing at the top & race at the bottom. ? Wheels can be either bearing or cup & cone, mostly the latter. ? I remain unconvinced bearings are better than cup & cone, I will admit they¡¯re less fiddly to service though. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Wednesday, 27 March 2024 3:36 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] possible worm gear & some bike stuff? How bout head sets ? animal On 3/26/24 6:24 PM, paul mcclintic via groups.io wrote: Most of the parts on better bikes have sealed bearings in just about everything, including pedals and derailleur pulleys. The one thing on my 2006 Trek Madona that doesn't are the brake calipers, they have loose ball bearings.
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Re: possible worm gear & some bike stuff
How bout head sets ?
animal
On 3/26/24 6:24 PM, paul mcclintic via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Most of the parts on better bikes have sealed bearings in just
about everything, including pedals and derailleur pulleys. The one
thing on my 2006 Trek Madona that doesn't are the brake calipers,
they have loose ball bearings.
|
Re: possible worm gear & some bike stuff
Most of the parts on better bikes have sealed bearings in just about everything, including pedals and derailleur pulleys. The one thing on my 2006 Trek Madona that doesn't are the brake calipers, they have loose ball bearings.
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BuffaloJohn
chrisser