FYI?
Power tapping is different.?
You have no feel and guy doing tapping does not know anything.??
This only by checking the edge of tap.
I can feel the tap head if tap is getting dull but the guy doing most tapping can not.
Most of it is? first time tapping.
We did a lot tapping from 1/2NC to 7/8NF on blanks cost from $10.00 to thousands.? You get good at tap removal.? But use on this size I would use fluxcore and remove the tap.
This trick will not work on smaller tap sizes
Dave?
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It is by feel.
The tap feels springy?
You also feel this springy feel is lack of cutting oil or wrong oil.?
Also feel cutting edge?
This springy feel is tap about to break.?
Need to use dark cutting oil for steel and most metals.?
Tool steel and 400 stainless only use a new taps.?
Dave?
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Miket_NYC
5:00am? ?
All you guys have far more experience than me at tapping, so can you answer me a question I've wondered about for years? How do you know when a tap is wearing out? I know new
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All you guys have far more experience than me at tapping, so can you answer me a question I've wondered about for years?? ?How do you know when a tap is wearing out? I know new? taps but far easier than worn taps but looking at them I can't tell the difference between them. (Or maybe I don't know what to look for).
Mike Taglieri?
I do most power on? all sizes of tapping .
I have a drum switch for tapping on my mill for work.?
Dave?
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Re: Using nitric acid to remove broken taps or drills from aluminum
I agree
I can find new transformers that 28 and 24 volt 200 watt about $35.00?
I did post here in a different thread
A lot safer.
Dave?
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Gerald Feldman
Mar 19? ?
You don¡¯t need a complicated power supply ¨C just one that is safe. Look, you are going to have water running over your work and the electrode, and when your skin gets wet its resistance drops and your chance of receiving a painful and possibly dangerous electrical shock increases. SO:
?
1) DO NOT run the current supply directly off the AC line ¨C that is just looking for trouble
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Re: Using nitric acid to remove broken taps or drills from aluminum
Hi Bruce look on line for INTERNET ARCHIVES they have popular mechanics PLUS heaps more that can be downloaded.
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Re: Using nitric acid to remove broken taps or drills from aluminum
You don¡¯t need a complicated power supply ¨C just one that is safe.? Look, you are going to have water running over your work and the electrode, and when your skin gets wet its resistance drops and your chance of receiving a painful and possibly dangerous electrical shock increases.? SO: ? 1) DO NOT run the current supply directly off the AC line ¨C that is just looking for trouble. ? 2) Limit the voltage between the work and the electrode to 20 or 25 volts or so.? It may take a little longer to get results, but at least you will be here? to see them. ? 3) Use a transformer coupled supply so that the secondary is isolated from the AC line.? ? 4) I would suggest using a 24 volt, 10 Amp switched-mode power supply as they are relatively cheap ($20) and relatively safe.? ? 5) Make sure the case of the power supply is connected to the power cord ground pin (green wire) ? 6) KEEP your hands away from the apparatus when it is under power ? 7) The rest of the circuitry can be as simple or complicated as you want, and modeled after any of the designs you see in the magazine articles, or if you have the electronics background design your own. ? Although small in number, I have had quite enough electrical shocks of one type or another earlier in my life to make me to never want another one. ? Good luck and stay safe. ? Jerry F. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Tuesday, March 19, 2024 9:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Using nitric acid to remove broken taps or drills from aluminum? I would be interested in building one like in this vid something with a nice simple power supply . Too bad that the link is dead for the build . Seems a lot of the builds I see have a power supply that was built for Apollo 12 , & I'm sure that's needed for a lot of folks but for just burning a tap here & there , how big & complicated power supply doess a guy really need for one like this . thanks for the link animal On 3/19/24 4:13 PM, davesmith1800 wrote: Just think the last time your mini lathe broke a tap.
Tap begone
Dave?
|
Two transformer.
Golf carts use 36 or 48 volt transformer?
Dave?
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Re: Material for riser block
Look at Amazon. ? I found some 2 inch bar stock with free ¡°Prime¡± delivery, ?Total ost is likey what you¡¯s spend in gas driving to the store.
There are on-line metal shops too. ?And don¡¯t forget eBay
In the end, Amazon¡¯s free shipping is a win.
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On Mar 19, 2024, at 5:57?PM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
Nobody locally.? Nearest two cities are 60-90 minutes away in opposite directions.
I'm sure somebody there sells steel, but finding one that's open to the public, will sell small quantities, and is open on Saturdays is a pretty slim chance.
I do know of a guy who welds and just hung a sign saying metal sales.? He's about 45 minutes away and I don't know if he's open on Saturdays.? I suspect he's selling more structural-type steel but it might be worth seeing if he carries what I need or can maybe get it.
We live in the sticks.? It's beautiful, but there's not much industry.
On Tuesday, March 19th, 2024 at 8:48 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
A36 is some tougher to machine than 1018 .DO you have any steel
sellers in yer area ? animal
On 3/19/24 5:44 PM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
I tend to machine whatever I have on hand or can scrounge.
I'd like to make a riser block to replace the compound slide. I
figure something like a 2x2x2 cube of steel would be pretty close
- I just got a 4-jaw chuck so I should be able to machine it to
size on the lathe.
But I have nothing like that lying around. Went on ebay and
didn't find much.
Started looking at the online metals places. Cube like that is
pretty reasonably priced although the shipping tends to be high.
If I'm going to fork out that cash to a specialty place, I figure
I should know what I'm getting.
One of the options is 1018 cold rolled. Seems like a good choice.
A36 is a bit cheaper but just barely.
Some other sites list other steel alloys. Is 1018 reasonably
machineable? Is there something else I should be looking for?
|
Re: Using nitric acid to remove broken taps or drills from aluminum
I took screen shot of the amp and volt meter to figure the power needs.? Most I look at the voltage was between 40 and 50 volts and max amps on meter was 5 or 10 amps but only used less than 4 amps.? So this is less than 200 watts need.? Some will use as little as 20 volts.? Dave?  
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I had power tapers heads and use in gear drill press , I did do thousands of tap holes too.?
When doing my own work just the mill or drill for tapping.? The drill chuck was the safety clutch.? You just did not tighten the chuck.?
Just tighten enough so tap works and if hits bottom the tap slips in the chuck.?
Using the chuck as a safety clutch.
Dave?
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Bill Williams
9:38pm? ?
Years ago (perhaps as much as 70) Model Engineer ran an article on building a releasing power tapping machine
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Years ago (perhaps as much as 70) Model Engineer ran an article on building a releasing power tapping machine from a Sturmey Archer three speed hub gear! I have not been able to find it since. Anyone who gets lucky please post the location.? ?Bill
On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 11:30?PM davesmith1800 < davesmith1@...> wrote: Here photo?
Attachments:
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Re: Using nitric acid to remove broken taps or drills from aluminum
I would be interested in building one like in this vid something
with a nice simple power supply . Too bad that the link is dead
for the build . Seems a lot of the builds I see have a power
supply that was built for Apollo 12 , & I'm sure that's needed
for a lot of folks but for just burning a tap here & there ,
how big & complicated power supply doess a guy really need for
one like this .
thanks
for the link
animal
On 3/19/24 4:13 PM, davesmith1800
wrote:
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Just think the last time your mini lathe broke a tap.
Tap begone
Dave?
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Re: Starrett merger/acquisition
I buy mostly used Starrett, but I've bought new Starrett items that they made overseas. They maintain tight control and the new stuff seems fine.? The new stuff tends to have more prominent nameplates and sometimes the part is simplified. But the tool can still be very good.?
Best example I can think of were some accessories I got a few years ago for my Last Word test indicator.? The original indicator os color case-hardened -- very pretty but the process is complicated. The new stuff was made in China and works as well, but has regular, black-dyed case-hardening. The pretty rainbow colors on my Last Word are nice, but I'm not going to cry myself to sleep if future tools eliminate decorative things like that.
Mike Taglieri?
On Tue, Mar 19, 2024, 1:59 PM Charles Kinzer < ckinzer@...> wrote:
It is very hard for a traditional U.S. company like Starrett, at one time existing mostly in the bubble of the U.S., to remain competitive once the manufacturing cmpetition went worldwide.
A very long time ago I got some business advice that, "If you do not obsolete yourself, somebody else will."
An example of this is Fluke which is a top-rated manufacturer of multimeters and such and are often "specified in" in large companies and government operations.? (And part of their business model is to support the same models for many years so that written procedures by companies and the gov don't have to be changed.)? They now have some of the meters manufactured in China.? They aren't real public about this.? However, they maintain VERY tight control over all steps of the manufacturing quality and the product is as sound as ever - so far as I know.
Many U.S. companies suffer from "corporate inertia" or suffer from not looking further into the future than trying to make the end of this quarter look good.? I don't know the details of why this merger occurred.
I don't know what MiddleGround Capital's plans are.? I know they acquired Castle Metals last year.? They also acquired Banner Industries and seem to be putting the two companies together, which will probably streamline things.? I suspect their plans for Starrett might be along similar lines.?
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer?
On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 10:21:18 AM PDT, davesmith1800 < davesmith1@...> wrote:
Most of my mics are Starrett? Good to know.? Dave?
?Ralph Lehotsky 9:19am? ?
Many Starrett products manufactured before this date will undoubtedly become more valuable
|
Re: Starrett merger/acquisition
I can tolerate some flexibility, but at last count, over half of this afternoon¡¯s e-mails were about guitars instead of the original topic, the Starrett acquisition.? Please either change the subject or move the guitar comments onto a more appropriate site. ? Thanks ? Jerry F. ?? ?
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Re: Material for riser block
Unless you're truly broke, I suggest you buy more than you absolutely need. Shipping will probably be about the?same and you'll have metal for future projects.? I would at LEAST buy enough to do the job again if you screw up the first time.
Mike Taglieri?
I did find two places online that were pretty reasonable (compared to ebay/metals online stores/amazon).
wanted $14 for a 2x2x2 cube of cold rolled 1018 with $10 shipping. wanted $8 for the same thing with $16 shipping.
So $25 to get almost exactly what I needed.? Would be closer to $50 on ebay to get something larger I'd have to cut down.
And no gas/travel costs.
The only critical dimension is the height so I just have to finish the opposing ends and can leave the 2x2 bar sides as rolled.
On Tuesday, March 19th, 2024 at 10:25 PM, mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
Another thing if ya look at the mail order , find out where the
weight price changes Ya may be able to get more material for down
the road for the same amount of freight .
Like sports ya get one foul so foul hard .
animal
On 3/19/24 5:57 PM, chrisser via
wrote:
Nobody
locally. Nearest two cities are 60-90 minutes away in opposite
directions.
I'm
sure somebody there sells steel, but finding one that's open to
the public, will sell small quantities, and is open on Saturdays
is a pretty slim chance.
I do
know of a guy who welds and just hung a sign saying metal
sales. He's about 45 minutes away and I don't know if he's open
on Saturdays. I suspect he's selling more structural-type steel
but it might be worth seeing if he carries what I need or can
maybe get it.
We
live in the sticks. It's beautiful, but there's not much
industry.
On Tuesday, March 19th, 2024 at
8:48 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
A36 is some tougher to machine than 1018 .DO you have any
steel sellers in yer area ?
animal
On 3/19/24 5:44 PM, chrisser via
wrote:
I tend to machine whatever I have on
hand or can scrounge.
I'd like to make a riser block to replace the compound
slide. I figure something like a 2x2x2 cube of steel would
be pretty close - I just got a 4-jaw chuck so I should be
able to machine it to size on the lathe.
But I have nothing like that lying around. Went on ebay and
didn't find much.
Started looking at the online metals places. Cube like that
is pretty reasonably priced although the shipping tends to
be high. If I'm going to fork out that cash to a specialty
place, I figure I should know what I'm getting.
One of the options is 1018 cold rolled. Seems like a good
choice.
A36 is a bit cheaper but just barely.
Some other sites list other steel alloys. Is 1018 reasonably
machineable? Is there something else I should be looking
for?
|
Re: Material for riser block
Have you looked at McMaster-Carr???
ralphie
|
Re: Material for riser block
I did find two places online that were pretty reasonable (compared to ebay/metals online stores/amazon).
inchofmetal.com wanted $14 for a 2x2x2 cube of cold rolled 1018 with $10 shipping. mspmetals.com wanted $8 for the same thing with $16 shipping.
So $25 to get almost exactly what I needed.? Would be closer to $50 on ebay to get something larger I'd have to cut down.
And no gas/travel costs.
The only critical dimension is the height so I just have to finish the opposing ends and can leave the 2x2 bar sides as rolled.
On Tuesday, March 19th, 2024 at 10:25 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
Another thing if ya look at the mail order , find out where the
weight price changes Ya may be able to get more material for down
the road for the same amount of freight .
Like sports ya get one foul so foul hard .
animal
On 3/19/24 5:57 PM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
Nobody
locally. Nearest two cities are 60-90 minutes away in opposite
directions.
I'm
sure somebody there sells steel, but finding one that's open to
the public, will sell small quantities, and is open on Saturdays
is a pretty slim chance.
I do
know of a guy who welds and just hung a sign saying metal
sales. He's about 45 minutes away and I don't know if he's open
on Saturdays. I suspect he's selling more structural-type steel
but it might be worth seeing if he carries what I need or can
maybe get it.
We
live in the sticks. It's beautiful, but there's not much
industry.
On Tuesday, March 19th, 2024 at
8:48 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
A36 is some tougher to machine than 1018 .DO you have any
steel sellers in yer area ?
animal
On 3/19/24 5:44 PM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
I tend to machine whatever I have on
hand or can scrounge.
I'd like to make a riser block to replace the compound
slide. I figure something like a 2x2x2 cube of steel would
be pretty close - I just got a 4-jaw chuck so I should be
able to machine it to size on the lathe.
But I have nothing like that lying around. Went on ebay and
didn't find much.
Started looking at the online metals places. Cube like that
is pretty reasonably priced although the shipping tends to
be high. If I'm going to fork out that cash to a specialty
place, I figure I should know what I'm getting.
One of the options is 1018 cold rolled. Seems like a good
choice.
A36 is a bit cheaper but just barely.
Some other sites list other steel alloys. Is 1018 reasonably
machineable? Is there something else I should be looking
for?
|
Re: Material for riser block
Another thing if ya look at the mail order , find out where the
weight price changes? Ya may be able to get more material for down
the road for the same amount of freight .
Like sports ya get one foul so foul hard .
animal
On 3/19/24 5:57 PM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Nobody
locally.? Nearest two cities are 60-90 minutes away in opposite
directions.
I'm
sure somebody there sells steel, but finding one that's open to
the public, will sell small quantities, and is open on Saturdays
is a pretty slim chance.
I do
know of a guy who welds and just hung a sign saying metal
sales.? He's about 45 minutes away and I don't know if he's open
on Saturdays.? I suspect he's selling more structural-type steel
but it might be worth seeing if he carries what I need or can
maybe get it.
We
live in the sticks.? It's beautiful, but there's not much
industry.
On Tuesday, March 19th, 2024 at
8:48 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
A36 is some tougher to machine than 1018 .DO you have any
steel sellers in yer area ?
animal
On 3/19/24 5:44 PM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
I tend to machine whatever I have on
hand or can scrounge.
I'd like to make a riser block to replace the compound
slide. I figure something like a 2x2x2 cube of steel would
be pretty close - I just got a 4-jaw chuck so I should be
able to machine it to size on the lathe.
But I have nothing like that lying around. Went on ebay and
didn't find much.
Started looking at the online metals places. Cube like that
is pretty reasonably priced although the shipping tends to
be high. If I'm going to fork out that cash to a specialty
place, I figure I should know what I'm getting.
One of the options is 1018 cold rolled. Seems like a good
choice.
A36 is a bit cheaper but just barely.
Some other sites list other steel alloys. Is 1018 reasonably
machineable? Is there something else I should be looking
for?
|
Re: Material for riser block
Sounds to me like yer welder guy may be a source for cutoff's
from other projects . I live in the sticks too but I'm only @ a 50
minute drive from Reno & there's several metal sellers there .
I usually get my aluminum when I'm in the Bay Area at a place that
just cuts material for other shops , their prices are real fair
& the material is super clean .
animal
On 3/19/24 5:57 PM, chrisserevia
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Nobody
locally.? Nearest two cities are 60-90 minutes away in opposite
directions.
I'm
sure somebody there sells steel, but finding one that's open to
the public, will sell small quantities, and is open on Saturdays
is a pretty slim chance.
I do
know of a guy who welds and just hung a sign saying metal
sales.? He's about 45 minutes away and I don't know if he's open
on Saturdays.? I suspect he's selling more structural-type steel
but it might be worth seeing if he carries what I need or can
maybe get it.
We
live in the sticks.? It's beautiful, but there's not much
industry.
On Tuesday, March 19th, 2024 at
8:48 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
A36 is some tougher to machine than 1018 .DO you have any
steel sellers in yer area ?
animal
On 3/19/24 5:44 PM, chrisser via
groups.io wrote:
I tend to machine whatever I have on
hand or can scrounge.
I'd like to make a riser block to replace the compound
slide. I figure something like a 2x2x2 cube of steel would
be pretty close - I just got a 4-jaw chuck so I should be
able to machine it to size on the lathe.
But I have nothing like that lying around. Went on ebay and
didn't find much.
Started looking at the online metals places. Cube like that
is pretty reasonably priced although the shipping tends to
be high. If I'm going to fork out that cash to a specialty
place, I figure I should know what I'm getting.
One of the options is 1018 cold rolled. Seems like a good
choice.
A36 is a bit cheaper but just barely.
Some other sites list other steel alloys. Is 1018 reasonably
machineable? Is there something else I should be looking
for?
|
Re: Material for riser block
I've got to start thinking before I hit "Send."? Take a look on Amazon too.? If you have Amazon Prime, you can often get metal there with free shipping.
Mike Taglieri
I forgot to respond to your question!? I recommend steel or cast iron. The forces aren't high enough for aluminum to suddenly fail during use, but the places where you put in screws, etc., will eventually get worn.
Mike Taglieri
I used a block of steel that was a little lower than the compound (which many people think was made too high).? But I made mine swivel, so I can vary the location of the tool and somewhat compensate?for the inadequate cross-slide travel of these lathes.
Here's a picture of my block with my post-type QCTP on it. (It was originally just a rectangular block. I rounded it in front when I found that the corners got in the way).
Mike Taglieri?
I tend to machine whatever I have on hand or can scrounge.
I'd like to make a riser block to replace the compound slide.? I figure something like a 2x2x2 cube of steel would be pretty close - I just got a 4-jaw chuck so I should be able to machine it to size on the lathe.
But I have nothing like that lying around.? Went on ebay and didn't find much.
Started looking at the online metals places.? Cube like that is pretty reasonably priced although the shipping tends to be high.? If I'm going to fork out that cash to a specialty place, I figure I should know what I'm getting.
One of the options is 1018 cold rolled.? Seems like a good choice.
A36 is a bit cheaper but just barely.
Some other sites list other steel alloys.? Is 1018 reasonably machineable?? Is there something else I should be looking for?
|
davesmith1800
Ralph Lehotsky
chrisser