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I had the same experience of having brass gibs warping after machining, so I did some research on the topic. You can find the discussion and references here :

So a simple 3.5 mm shim on the Vevor will leave you where you wanted to be? <j_r_abercrombie@...> wrote:

Check the contact surfaces between the nut and the tailstock, the locking plate and the underside of the ways, and on the ways themselves. You get better hold if the contact surfaces on the ways is

I think the half-nut arrangement can vary. I now understand that the Vevor I bought is a RealBull machine, and my Microlux is a Sieg. The half-nut arrangement isn't the same on both of them. And, I

My only machine shop class was in the 1970s, so we have that in common! I use the technique described by Joe Pieczynski on YouTube for cutting RH threads - tool upside down, lathe turning in reverse,

" If you heat the brass with a propane torch until red then quench it in water, it will anneal (soften) it and it is real easy to form." It CAN be useful to heat brass, copper and aluminum if they've

OK! Another thing to check! :) Thanks.

Good idea. I'm going to do that when I get back to 'fine tuning' the leadscrew and half nuts.

There's another other adjustment that affects the half nut/lead screw alignment.? There are two bolts that attach the apron to the saddle.? They fit into slots, so the procedure is to run the

Ok, so the apron bolt holes were not oblong a bit ? Mine were. So I could match up the apron and leadscrew. It took a bit of fiddling till I got it right. But for sure, the whole apron and leadscrew

So long as the material between jaw and material is the same on all three it is just convenience. I suspect most use drink can aluminium or tinplate.

There is no way of adjusting the split nut I an see. The lever arm and the disc with the two pegs for lock and unlock is all that is there. I thinking filing the top holes the screws fixing the apron

It was the technique I used on my last machine. I will keep an eye on it. Actually pushing the locking lever away from the user rather than to the side actually seems a better way; early days still so

Yes, the one on the right. I guessed where it went but had not realised it was reversing the lead screw. I might have made a LH thread on a lathe when I first learnt over 50 years ago but have never

That's enough information for me, many thanks!

Dont yours have an adjusting screw for how tight the half nuts tighten on the lead screw ? Mine does and it took just a slight bit of turn to prevent the half nuts from grabbing the lead screw. Or am

You are lucky your tailstock doesn't slip. It's an ongoing problem for my lathe.

Exactly - use what you have to get going is one of my mottos. :)? I've been using HSS tools and I think they work better with light cuts compared to the carbide tools I have. I bought some

I'll try that idea of hitting the edges with the grinder; thanks. Mine isn't making a lot of noise but is still a bit prone to 'catching' when the lever is turned down.

Is it one of these? One is for forward, one for reverse leadscrew movement. For traversing the carriage to the right, or cutting threads that 'reverse' is handy.