The nut's vertical position can be adjusted to match the CS leadscrew using the procedure given on page 13 of this LMS manual:
< >
This should eliminate the binding you're experiencing.
You can also tip the nut (using the adjustments provided) to reduce backlash due to the nut, as described in that procedure.
Note that backlash is the sum from this nut, and the space between the shoulder on the leadscrew and the pocket containing the shoulder. You can add a shim to minimize backlash due to a poor fit here. Alternatively, adding a ball bearing to the CS leadscrew can eliminate need for the pocket, leaving just backlash from the nut.
To answer your question, I shimmed the CS lead nut on my machine after adding a ball bearing. I found tipping the nut reduces backlash temporarily but the nut then wears fairly rapidly until backlash gets back to about 5 thou where it sort of stabilizes and wears much slower. Bottom line: modest backlash is something you'll get used to and take up without conscious effort.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
|
Roy, that's why the modification to the brass nut is necessary. Its easy, just follow the article and it helps the adjustment stay.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Feb 10, 2013 at 4:19 PM, Roy <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
?
It's already got adjusting screws!
They do tend to unadjust themselves, mostly from the screws vibrating loose. Some folks have shimmed them to eliminate the problem.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
>
> Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
>
|
It's already got adjusting screws!
They do tend to unadjust themselves, mostly from the screws vibrating loose. Some folks have shimmed them to eliminate the problem.
Roy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
|
There is a pdf file with photos on the group web site of how to modify the cross slide nut and make it easier to adjust. I did the modification years ago and it makes adjusting easy. I also lapped the gibs.
If you can't find the file "Cross Slide Nut Modification" E-mail me separately and I will send it to you.
John
|
Before getting involved with shims, first loosen off the rear gib adjusting screw and see if that makes any difference. If not, try loosening the two bolts which secure the bracket that carries the cross-slide feedscrew. Just loosen them enough to allow the bracket to move around as far as the wriggle room in the bolt holes permits. Then wind the slide out as far as it will come, and tighten up the bolts. This might cure the problem if the hole through the bracket was a bit out of line with the brass nut. In that case, the slide would move easily when well back, but get progressivly stiffer as the nut approached the bracket and tried to bend the feedscrew more and more to accommodate the misalignment.
I had a similar problem on my lathe, but it had a different cause. Due to poor manufacture, the top of the male dovetail on the saddle fouled the roof of the female dovetail in the slide when I tried to wind the slide fully out towards me. Once tracked down with by probing around with a 5 thou feeler gauge, the problem was soom solves with a few strokes of a file to give the necessay clearance.
Andy
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Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "G." wrote:
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
|
Ceramic coating swap for mods / upgrades
I am willing to do ceramic coating of parts, or pretty much anything mailable, for some well done bearing upgrades in the cross slides of my mini lathe.
I do ceramic coating as a part of my gunsmithing business and the work is first class. I not only have done firearms, but vehicle parts such as differential covers, valve covers, lug-nuts and various brackets, and also household hardware such as all the antique door hardware that was hidden under two generations of paint in my house. It also has proven great on tools that have seen to much weather.
Contact me off-list if interested.
|
Wondering if anyone has ever had to shim the brass nut for the 'cross-slide?' to work right? I've tried the original and a new one. Both leave it harder to turn the closer the cross-slide gets to the turning lever. Any idea's would be appreciated as i would like to get this done and together and use it some.
|
Re: Who to install hand wheel bearings?
Robert;
I noticed on your link,you mentioned that you wanted to fill the apron gearbox with oil.
Did you ever do this?
You would not have to fill the box,only put some in the bottom,which woud travel up all the gears.
This would eliminate the need to put a seal on the shaft on the back side.
Mark
|
--- On Sat, 2/9/13, Robert Furmanak wrote:
From: Robert Furmanak
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Who to install hand wheel bearings?
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Saturday, February 9, 2013, 5:01 PM
?
I installed a pair of 8mm x 22mm bearings on my handwheel shaft.? Unlike most others, I put both bearings in front, with nothing in the rear.? This has worked very well for me.? See my post at:?
I could not have done this mod on my lathe.? I used my Mini Mill and a boring bar.
?
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of G.
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2013 8:40 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Who to install hand wheel bearings?
?
?
When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes?
I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile mod how ever.
|
John
Thank you very much! I will look this over when I get a chance.
Dick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., John Lindo wrote:
Hello Dick
see my link of photos.
This modification project maybe more than you want ??to do.
As I extended the cross slide,also made the mods to rotate the compound slide without
having to wind the screw in/out.Sometimes upsetting the gib settings.
You just have to??align??the front of the compound slide to the face of the ??X slide,and use a allen T handle to??
slacken,or tighten 4 screws.Now really secure.I drilled ??holes through the compound slide to pick up
the heads of the original screws added and 2 new at 90 degrees through holes in the compound and tapped new holes in the X slide.
the added holes as extra??rigidity only.
I made a new??larger??diameter spinning /locking disc,I thought the original a bit thin and threads were a loose fit,
bored out the compound bores accordingly.
Also drilled/reamed holes for a locator pin??and now I can rotate the compound every 15 degrees with a positive pin stop.
The 30 degree location hole is actually 29.5 degree,for screw cutting angles.
then finished off the project with machined oil grooves and oil wells,and scraped the slide faces.
These mods I did some 2 years ago,never had any problems.
Hope this all helps.
John L
Spain
________________________________
From: Dick
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, February 9, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Screwless vise
??
I am interesed in seeing your idea as I will at some point make a modification to mine.
Could you contact me off the group?
Thank you
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Taglieri" wrote:
I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
tighten the screws down fully.
Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
from the usual sources
(). But I didn't want
to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
that I had already()
and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
compound.
I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
drawings for those interested.
|
Re: Who to install hand wheel bearings?
I installed a pair of 8mm x 22mm bearings on my handwheel shaft.? Unlike most others, I put both bearings in front, with nothing in the rear.? This has worked very well for me.? See my post at:? I could not have done this mod on my lathe.? I used my Mini Mill and a boring bar. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of G.
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2013 8:40 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Who to install hand wheel bearings?? ? When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes?
I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile mod how ever.
|
Hello Dick see my link of photos. https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5760796018680783985
This modification project
maybe more than you want ?to do. As I extended the cross slide,also made the mods to rotate the compound slide without having to wind the screw in/out.Sometimes upsetting the gib settings. You just have to?align?the front of the compound slide to the face of the ?X slide,and use a allen T handle to? slacken,or tighten 4 screws.Now really
secure.I drilled ?holes through the compound slide to pick up the heads of the original screws added and 2 new at 90 degrees through holes in the compound and tapped new holes in the X slide. the added holes as extra?rigidity only. I made a new?larger?diameter spinning /locking disc,I thought the original a bit thin and threads were a loose fit,
bored out the compound bores
accordingly. Also drilled/reamed holes for a locator pin?and now I can rotate the compound every 15 degrees with a positive pin stop. The 30 degree location hole is actually 29.5 degree,for screw cutting angles. then finished off the project with machined oil grooves and oil wells,and scraped the
slide faces. These mods I did some 2 years ago,never had any problems. Hope this all helps. John L Spain
From: Dick
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Saturday, February 9, 2013 1:32 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Screwless vise
?
I am interesed in seeing your idea as I will at some point make a modification to mine.
Could you contact me off the group?
Thank you
Dick
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Taglieri" wrote:
>
> I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
> tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
> still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
> easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
> that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
> then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
> slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
> problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
> capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
> while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
> JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
> precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
> spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
> tighten the screws down fully.
>
> Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
> from the usual sources
> (). But I didn't want
> to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
> that I had already()
> and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
> compound.
>
> I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
> still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
> compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
> better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
> motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
>
> Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...
>
> Everyone has his reasons.
> - Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
>
> > P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
> > instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
> > I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
> > machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
> > over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
> > some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
> > locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
> > cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
> > locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
> > tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
> > angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
> > instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
> > to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
> > screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
> > drawings for those interested.
>
|
Who to install hand wheel bearings?
When I get caught up on some bills, who installs the bearings in the saddle and cross slide of our lathes?
I won't have a lathe to do the work on, so can't do it myself. It sounds like a worthwhile mod how ever.
|
I am interesed in seeing your idea as I will at some point make a modification to mine.
Could you contact me off the group?
Thank you
Dick
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Michael Taglieri" wrote:
I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
tighten the screws down fully.
Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
from the usual sources
(). But I didn't want
to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
that I had already()
and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
compound.
I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
drawings for those interested.
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Hi and thanks? good idea , yes its removed Don ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of anthrhodes@...
Sent: Saturday, 9 February 2013 5:27 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: seperating workpiece cyno? ? I suppose you've probably solved this by now, but if not --- Hold a steel piece hard against the aluminum piece, no clearance, then strike the block with a common hammer, not soft or dead blow. If you don't trust this, make up a test piece to try it on first. In a message dated Wed Feb?6,?2013 9:10?pm (PST),?Don Leitch?writes: That's what I thought I was going to be able to do .
But its ali and I didn't want to ding it, I tried with a plastic mallet ,
nothing happened.
|
Re: seperating workpiece cyno
Don,
?
I suppose you've probably solved this by now, but if not ---
?
Hold a steel piece hard against the aluminum piece, no clearance, then
strike the block with a common hammer, not soft or dead blow. If you don't trust
this, make up a test piece to try it on first.
?
Just a thought.
?
Anthony
Berkeley, Calif.
****
In a message dated Wed Feb?6,?2013 9:10?pm (PST),?Don
Leitch?writes:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That's
what I thought I was going to be able to do .
But its ali and I didn't
want to ding it, I tried with a plastic mallet ,
nothing
happened.
|
I realize I'm replying to a post that was written almost 8 months ago, but I
tend to get behind reading emails from this group, so I hope someone will
still be interested. Many years ago on the 7x10minilathe group I shared an
easy trick to solve the problem of adjusting the compound. The problem is
that you normally want to adjust it with the slide in working position, but
then you have to screw the slide back to turn the two M6 capscrews and the
slide sometimes moves while you're doing that. But you can solve this
problem easily by simply putting spring washers under the heads of the
capscrews. Then you adjust the screws to hold the compound very snugly
while still letting you adjust it. I set the screws so the compound will
JUST move when I tap it with a lump of lead (which is what I use for tapping
precision surfaces). Once you get the compound where you want it, the
spring washers will hold it securely while you crank the slide back to
tighten the screws down fully.
Concerning what washers to use, you can buy Bellville-type spring-washers
from the usual sources
(). But I didn't want
to bother just to get two washers, so I used a couple of small lock washers
that I had already()
and filed off their sharp points so they wouldn't dig into the metal of the
compound.
I did this at least 10 years ago and this setup for adjusting the compound
still works fine. Of course, it's still a pain in the butt to crank the
compound back to tighten it, so a more elegant adjustment method would be
better, but this solution took 5 minutes and solves the problem of unwanted
motion of the compound, so it's good enough for me.
Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...
Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
P.S. I have just purchased a Seig C3 7 x 14 lathe for work (scientific
instrument making) and have spent the last week getting it up to scratch.
I have been following the various threads on these small lathes. The basic
machine is good in concept but the finishing is a bit poor. I have gone
over the lathe and done some major refitting of the machine components and
some mods mainly to the saddle and especially to the compound slide
locking arrangement. Instead the lousy locking system as provided (2 M6
cap head screws) on the lathe as present and having followed the 3 point
locking arrangement that is currently being discussed, I have used a
tapered locking ring which is very affective and avoids the drilling of
angled holes through the cross slide. This system was used on an
instrument lathe (possibly Swiss) when I was an apprentice, which I found
to be elegant in use. When set up it requires hand tightening of a M3
screw to lock the compound slide solid. I will provide pictures and
drawings for those interested.
|
Re: If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
That's a great idea...
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I drilled the draw bolt for my collet chuck, so I could run a stop through it.
I just used 1/4 in, redi-bolt, for the stop,so I could adjust it all thr way from the collet, to the nut
on the end of the spindle.
--- On Fri, 2/8/13, WAM <ajawam2@...> wrote:
From: WAM <ajawam2@...>
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Friday, February 8, 2013, 7:43 PM
Thanks!!... Been wanting to do that for a while. I made some ends that allow me to get past the chuck jaws and do down to 1/8" diameters. I made the body of it .63" to fit the 3" chuck bore to center the .11" stop end. The stop ends thread into the body so I can make various sizes as needed.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
WAM;
nice job on that!
--- On Thu, 2/7/13, WAM ajawam2@...> wrote:
From: WAM ajawam2@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 4:29 PM
... bicycle handle bar nuts fit the 7x bore.
I just tapped one to fit some 1/8" threaded tube used for lamps (straight 1/8" x 27 pipe), bored the other out with some slop to allow it to move up the wedge.
Welded a 1/4 x20 coupler to one end and used a pipe nut (modded to straight 1/8" x27 thread) as a jam nut. The plastic 1/4x20 wingnut sets the depth stop. The aluminum spacer gets it thru the change gear door (I have a hinged door on mine with a captive thumb screw so it's a bit longer..)
pics:
|
Re: If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
I drilled the draw bolt for my collet chuck, so I could run a stop through it.
I just used 1/4 in, redi-bolt, for the stop,so I could adjust it all thr way from the collet, to the nut
on the end of the spindle.
|
--- On Fri, 2/8/13, WAM wrote:
From: WAM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Friday, February 8, 2013, 7:43 PM
?
Thanks!!... Been wanting to do that for a while. I made some ends that
allow me to get past the chuck jaws and do down to 1/8" diameters. I
made the body of it .63" to fit the 3" chuck bore to center the .11"
stop end. The stop ends thread into the body so I can make various sizes
as needed.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
>WAM;
>nice job on that!
>
>--- On Thu, 2/7/13, WAM > wrote:
>
>
>From: WAM >
>Subject: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
>To:
>Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 4:29 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>... bicycle handle bar nuts fit the 7x bore.
>
>I just tapped one to fit some 1/8" threaded tube used for lamps
>(straight 1/8" x 27 pipe), bored the other out with some slop to allow
>it to move up the wedge.
>Welded a 1/4 x20 coupler to one end and used a pipe nut (modded to
>straight 1/8" x27 thread) as a jam nut. The plastic 1/4x20 wingnut sets
>the depth stop. The aluminum spacer gets it thru the change gear door
>(I have a hinged door on mine with a captive thumb screw so it's a bit
>longer..)
>
>pics:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
|
On Friday, February 08, 2013 03:06:17 am you wrote: Tell me if I should change my thinking.
Warren you know your machine so you're OK if you work with more than one brand or type of machine the axis designations break down fairly quickly ,they usually try to stay close to 'the book' for them but not always so it comes down to knowing the quirks of the machine you're working on I work on a couple mill/turns where the Y axis is mirrored ,it makes perfect sense when you stand at the machine but most cad/cam programs will give you upside down code (or is it backwards?) on another they folded them over ,everything on the main spindle is right but the sub spindle is all wrong ,until you get used to it you need a map at the machine just to make offset adjustments and another to figure out the error messages ,if the X2 axis has a problem it shows up as U1 never could stand that machine Brian -- Nemo Me Impune Lacessit
|
Re: If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
Thanks!!... Been wanting to do that for a while. I made some ends that allow me to get past the chuck jaws and do down to 1/8" diameters. I made the body of it .63" to fit the 3" chuck bore to center the .11" stop end. The stop ends thread into the body so I can make various sizes as needed.
Mark Schwiebert wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
WAM;
nice job on that!
--- On Thu, 2/7/13, WAM <ajawam2@...> wrote:
From: WAM <ajawam2@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] If you ever need to make a spindle workstop...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Thursday, February 7, 2013, 4:29 PM
... bicycle handle bar nuts fit the 7x bore.
I just tapped one to fit some 1/8" threaded tube used for lamps (straight 1/8" x 27 pipe), bored the other out with some slop to allow it to move up the wedge.
Welded a 1/4 x20 coupler to one end and used a pipe nut (modded to straight 1/8" x27 thread) as a jam nut. The plastic 1/4x20 wingnut sets the depth stop. The aluminum spacer gets it thru the change gear door (I have a hinged door on mine with a captive thumb screw so it's a bit longer..)
pics:
|
GadgetBuilder
John Mattis
maschwiebert
OldToolmaker