Another suggestion is to use Nichrome wire and make the resistance
whatever you need. Nichrome wire is what is used to make wire wound
resistors.
I have some and am willing to mail you a few cm/inches to try.
Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne
On 05/02/13 07:21, alex4459jopiklal44
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
"alex4459jopiklal44" wrote:
> I agree , either use a 0.022 or 4 in parallel .
> If you look at the schematic, you will see that all
curent drawn is going through this resistor, and an opamp
are then measuring on the current ..
> The only thing that could happen is that the motor
draw a bit more before the regulator cutt out.
>
> it would be close to 12 percent more..if they are
spot on value.. therefore choose 5% or better ,in
tollerance.
>
> to be on the safe side, you could choose a 0.033
.,but if there is room for 4 , maybe 2watt then I would
choose this solution with four 0.1 R
> alex
>
I think ,now after looking at the schematic again, that it
is best to get as close as possible to the original
value,,that is 4 times 0.1 ohm parallel = 0.025 ohm ,as
said from others.
there is a CL adjust in conection to the resistor ,guess
this is current limit..it look as it turn the regulation
to zero when max current is exceeded.. There are another
path through an adjustment marked IR ,witch I think is
current- regulation.. it end at the same point where the
speed potmeter goes. so it must be a regulation to keep
the moment steady ,when motor is loaded..
alex
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
A constructive criticism:
Bolt holes should be drilled with clearance so 0.06 mm miss alignment will not matter, Bolts should not be used for registration, this should be done with locating dowels
Malcolm.
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.
|
--- On Tue, 2/5/13, cnc sales wrote:
From: cnc sales
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Tuesday, February 5, 2013, 12:23 PM
?
I have some scales like that.
They are, in a word, unacceptable, for me.
Accuracy is +/- 0.02 / 0.03 mm.
This is unacceptable for anything remotely like precision.
Ie two pieces, with a hole in them, made with the readout
indicating the same may be off by 0.06 mm, and will normally be
off by 0.02 at least.
The holes will not be in the same place by so much that a bolt
will not fit through the two.
I am now installing glass scales, that have repeatability well
under 0.004 mm.
I doubt that the make,mark,or type of reader has anything to do
with it, ime.
?
I am strongly considering a Z axis digital linear scale
for my 7 x 16 lathe.
I am thinking I might want to mount it onto the rear side
of the bed below the saddle gibs. The scale would have a
remote reader that I could place anywhere within 48".
Has anyone done this? I like to get as much info and learn
of any experiences others may have had when doing this
mod.
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
I have a mag version of a real DRO on my mill:
And a Shars SPC kit scale on my lathe:
Yea, the DRO Pro kit is great. Fast response, great accuracy, but it's limited to the machine's ability, rigidity, etc...
The scale kit on the lathe, for what I paid and what it is, is a vast improvement over reading dials. Well worth the effort. I wanted to put another DRO Pro kit on the lathe, and still may, but SPC kit has hit within tolerances on all the jobs I do (i use it for product development/R&D).
To test it, I took a piece of 7/8" cold rolled, turned it down to what the scales stated, and sure enough within a mil or so... Using any kind of scale or DRO really just helps to learn the limits of tolerance of what your machine tool is capable of. Honestly, the DRO pro kit on the mill is way overkill for the ability of the machine. The hardware they supply for mounting the reader head is useless on a machine of that size. And for the rigidity of the lathes and mills of this size, holding tolerances becomes more of knowing your machine than how accurate a DRO is.
cnc sales wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have some scales like that.
They are, in a word, unacceptable, for me.
Accuracy is +/- 0.02 / 0.03 mm.
This is unacceptable for anything remotely like precision.
Ie two pieces, with a hole in them, made with the readout indicating the same may be off by 0.06 mm, and will normally be off by 0.02 at least.
The holes will not be in the same place by so much that a bolt will not fit through the two.
I am now installing glass scales, that have repeatability well under 0.004 mm.
I doubt that the make,mark,or type of reader has anything to do with it, ime.
I am strongly considering a Z axis digital linear scale for my 7 x 16 lathe.
I am thinking I might want to mount it onto the rear side of the bed below the saddle gibs. The scale would have a remote reader that I could place anywhere within 48".
Has anyone done this? I like to get as much info and learn of any experiences others may have had when doing this mod.
Thanks
Dick
|
Re: Digital linear scale for 7x lathe?
I have some scales like that.
They are, in a word, unacceptable, for me.
Accuracy is +/- 0.02 / 0.03 mm.
This is unacceptable for anything remotely like precision.
Ie two pieces, with a hole in them, made with the readout
indicating the same may be off by 0.06 mm, and will normally be
off by 0.02 at least.
The holes will not be in the same place by so much that a bolt
will not fit through the two.
I am now installing glass scales, that have repeatability well
under 0.004 mm.
I doubt that the make,mark,or type of reader has anything to do
with it, ime.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
I am strongly considering a Z axis digital linear scale
for my 7 x 16 lathe.
I am thinking I might want to mount it onto the rear side
of the bed below the saddle gibs. The scale would have a
remote reader that I could place anywhere within 48".
Has anyone done this? I like to get as much info and learn
of any experiences others may have had when doing this
mod.
Thanks
Dick
|
Different version of the SB manuals Edition 55
campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_1of2.pdf
campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_2of2.pdf
gerry waclawiak wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve the finish.
I always find that net oil applied from a small oil bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot cheaper and will last forever.Kerosene is also good for ally.
If you only use small quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: mike@...
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
Would cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of michael kolchins
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 3:00 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins <kwoodhands@...>
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a plumber uses for flux. Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication ,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who has retired and no longer sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a rookie machinist. mike
From: Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co. <mike@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work will be done with aluminum.
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
?
Gerry thanks for
the suggestions. I actually purchased 2 years back and still have a gallon can
of WD-40 in my pole barn but never thought of using it for this purpose
(aluminum turning). I'm still getting my lathe set up but getting closer and
much more anxious to try it out.
?
Cheers,
Mike
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Hi
Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be
fine but anything diluted with water is
to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve
the finish.
I always find that net
oil applied from a small oil
bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have
an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot cheaper and will
last forever.Kerosene is also good for
ally.
If you only use small
quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon,
4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you
use ?
Would
cutting oil attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original
reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast
iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..."
<7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53
PM
Subject: Re:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron
I use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on
brass or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring
or drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real
pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did
not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I
got satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid
brushes a plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback
book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication
,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer
sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there
publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will
inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a
rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air
Conditioning Co. To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February
4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube
do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already
been asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting
tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being
machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked
in cutting oil? Most of my
work?will be done with aluminum.
?
Also is there any one book that stands
out from the rest as far as lathe and mill practices that you might
recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -
Version:
2013.0.2897 / Virus Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date:
02/04/13
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Hi Mike,
Neat cutting oil would be fine but anything diluted with water is to be avoided in my opinion. Provided you are not taking heavy cuts and feeds such that the work needs cooling the real point of cutting oil is to improve the finish.
I always find that net oil applied from a small oil bottle or by brush works fine. For aluminium I use WD40 or similar. The aerosol cans normally have an extension tube to apply a pinpoint spray. The cans are a quite expensive way of buying but they last a long time. Bulk cans are a lot cheaper and will last forever.Kerosene is also good for ally.
If you only use small quantities clean up with kitchen towels is easy
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: mike@... Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 20:50:41 -0500 Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Would cutting oil
attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original
reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast
iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..."
<7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53
PM
Subject: Re:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I
use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass
or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or
drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real
pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did
not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got
satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a
plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback
book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication
,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer
sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there
publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will
inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a
rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air
Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February
4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already been
asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools
cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being
machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in
cutting oil? Most of my work?will
be done with aluminum.
?
Also is
there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill
practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Hi John,
A bit more sophisticated than my solution. I found that the cork from a sherry bottle (the type with a platic top/rim and a cork stopper) fits neatly without he need to do anyhing to it
Gerry W
Leeds UK
To: 7x12minilathe@... From: bechetboat@... Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 23:05:24 -0800 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock
?
PS The brass plug at the end of the quill is a dirt protector. It slips into the #2 Morse taper,also doubles up as a quick locator when I mount a chuck onto my mill circular table.again the table has a # 2 MT. The O ring locates into the the 20 mm hole in the chuck and I withdraw the plug upwards when the chuck is tightened up. it's within 1.5 mm concentricity.I use a dial indicator from there on if I need more accuracy.
Regards John L Spain.
|
Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
thanks I will check out our local scrap man again I checked for Ali bar, ended up,with off cuts from engineers jobbing shops, stainless probably easy NZ being a marine area. brass very expensive here.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 5/02/2013, at 9:33 PM, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
?
It is brass. I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful. We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here. Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here. even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve. Brass is so easy to machine and braze. Best regards John
From: Don Leitch <don@...>
To:
7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb ? ? ? A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I
decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now. You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its
operating pocket on the mill. Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
It is brass. I repair musical instruments and a collection of brass stock is always useful. We go around scrap yards and collect old brass pieces at swap meets etc,also have some good stockists around here. Stainless or exotic material very hard to find here. even made a push on/pop off gear?adapter?from an old radiator valve. Brass is so easy to machine and braze. Best regards John
From: Don Leitch
To:
7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tuesday, February 5, 2013 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
?
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb ? From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52
p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away. ? ? A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I
decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now. You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its
operating pocket on the mill. Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
Re: Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
John out of interest what's your light source in the photos, they all have a look like made from brass, I notice it in many of your photos? Maybe a bright incandescent light bulb. Don zl1atb ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of John Lindo
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 7:52 p.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.? ? A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now. You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill. Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
|
PS The brass plug at the end of the quill is a dirt protector. It slips into the #2 Morse taper,also doubles up as a quick locator when I mount a chuck onto my mill circular table.again the table has a # 2 MT. The O ring locates into the the 20 mm hole in the chuck and I withdraw the plug upwards when the chuck is tightened up. it's within 1.5 mm concentricity.I use a dial indicator from there on if I need more accuracy.
Regards John L Spain.
|
Tailstock DRO don't throw anything away.
A couple of years ago I had left the machine light to close to the quill DRO on my mill when I went to lunch. I now turn everything off when not in use.After lunch i?returned?to find it had??melted the some of the push buttons. I was?devastated,immediately rang??Hugh of Amadeal and he just so happened to have a spare DRO and shipped one out. I might add at a very reasonable price and delivery as normal.again many thanks Hugh. My motto Don't throw anything away,and turn off everything when not in use. The old DRO sat in my drawer for over a year and I decided to try repair it one day. I used a scalpel and carefully cut the melted areas around the buttons,dis-assembled the unit it and got it to work. but not all the buttons, the on/off ,metric/inch after some carefull surgery worked.that's all I wanted. Not really keen on the graduated dial and depth markings on the tailstock,I
decided to use the old DRO and attach it to the tailstock with a knocked up bracket and clamp I had from some scrap pieces. You will note that the bottom half of the DRO has tape around,that covers the battery cap that was totally melted. If I need to change batteries,I just undo the tape and swap them over,and re-tape. Also keeps any chips from? going inside it.The DRO works fine now.
You will also note from the photo's on the top of the tailstock and extra brass thumbscrew. I had some rotational play from the original quill locator pin and slot. So machined into the original quill square slot
a new groove with a 4 mm ball end mill,just slightly deeper than 2 mm and sitting under the thumbscrew is a 4 mm ball bearing.re tapping the original thread to 5 mm using a 4.2 mm tapping drill and made a new thumbscrew. The sideways motion has now gone away. https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5841344959009276481
Last photo is of the replacement DRO in its operating pocket on the mill.
Hope this was of interest.Don't throw anything away,but I need a larger playroom,just had one built,still not big enough.
John L
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Hi all,
Like Jim D, I use Tap Magic mostly Diluted 1:5 with
Kerosene (it is mentioned on the can that it can be diluted for recirculation
systems.) on my mini mill and sometimes for finishing cuts on the lathe. Only
time I use it neat is for tapping. Works for me and cuts costs a
tad.
John B
|
Re: LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck - 1st look
Now I don't have the?Cadillac?you have but the five took out the?control?box on mine slick as a whistle be careful very very light cuts with the five you have a lot more mass to spin. Warren
From: Michael
Jablonski
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 4:22 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck - 1st look
?
Well I
finally got around to mounting the LMS 5 inch 4 jaw independent chuck on the
Micromark 7x16.
?
Here
are a couple of pictures:
<
>
<
>
My
first thoughts now that I have it are that maybe the 5 inch is a bit much for a
7x lathe. While the Micromark motor has no problem spinning it up, the added
mass of the 5 inch takes a while to spin down?to a stop.
?
The 5
inch weighs in around 14 pounds with the required?adapter
plate.
The
standard 3 inch weighs in at 3.25 pounds.
?
IT IS
POSSIBLE to extend the jaws out far enough so that they will hit the bed. A
little care will need to be taken so this does not happen. I opened it up so it
could hold a piece around 2.75 inch in diameter and the jaws had a comfortable
clearance over the bed. This was with the jaws in the position as in the photos,
I haven't turned the jaws around yet to take any measurements in that
configuration.
?
I'm
wondering now if maybe a 4 inch chuck would have been better.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
?
?
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Thanks
Roy,
?
The
link below for the "How To Run A Lathe" book is a better copy than the one I
have.
So to
the people I have already sent it out to via email, you may want to save a copy
of the one linked below.
Michael -
USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Here's one source:
Here
are some more South Bend books:
Roy
---
In 7x12minilathe@...,
"Don Leitch" wrote:
>
> Hi I would love a pdf of that file if you
don't mind
>
> Don zl1atb
>
> don@...
>
>
>
> From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
>
On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
> Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 11:23
a.m.
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
>
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
>
>
>
>
>
> The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very
old, but the practices
> still hold true today.
>
> The
copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no
>
charge.
>
> I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to
you if you are
> interested. It is a little over 3 megs.
>
>
> Michael - USA
>
> Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
>
On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
> Sent: Monday, February
04, 2013 5:23 AM
> To: 7x12minilathe@...
>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
>
>
>
> Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as
to
> what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a
pump to
> flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant
spray, or the old
> fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of
my work will be done
> with aluminum.
>
>
>
>
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe
and
> mill practices that you might recommend to a
newb?
>
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Would cutting oil
attack the cast iron bed of a lathe?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
I am replying to my own post, as I made a mistake in the original
reply.I use nothing on cast iron, I use cutting oil on steel, never on cast
iron.
mike
From: michael kolchins
To: "7x12minilathe@..."
<7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:53
PM
Subject: Re:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
On aluminum I have used WD-40 with success. Steel and cast iron I
use dark cutting oil the plumbers use for tapping. Usually nothing on brass
or bronze, though I have used cutting oil on bronze if I am boring or
drilling. I have had the occasion to turn copper,a couple of times.Real
pita, use milk or maybe paint thinner. I used paint thinner because I did
not have milk in the house.I tried several lubricants on copper before I got
satisfactory results with thinner.I use a brush ,mostly the acid brushes a
plumber uses for flux.?
Get a copy of "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend.This is a paperback
book written years ago that still pertains to todays machines.
There is at least one online bookstore that sells the publication
,About $10.00. Lindsday Publications who ?has retired and no longer
sells books was the place to go.Anmother company is selling there
publications now,sorry I do not recall the name.I'm sure another post will
inform you,if not try googling "How To Run A Lathe".This is perfect for a
rookie machinist.?
mike
From: Ebner Heating Air
Conditioning Co.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Monday, February
4, 2013 8:23 AM
Subject:
[7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
Excuse me if this question has already been
asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools
cool. Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being
machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in
cutting oil? Most of my work?will
be done with aluminum.
?
Also is
there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill
practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Here's one source:
Here are some more South Bend books:
Roy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Don Leitch" wrote:
Hi I would love a pdf of that file if you don't mind
Don zl1atb
don@...
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of Michael Jablonski
Sent: Tuesday, 5 February 2013 11:23 a.m.
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
The South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices
still hold true today.
The copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no
charge.
I have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are
interested. It is a little over 3 megs.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]
On Behalf Of Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 5:23 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
Excuse me if this question has already been asked but I am curious as to
what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool. Do you recommend a pump to
flood the tool and material being machined, a mist coolant spray, or the old
fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting oil? Most of my work will be done
with aluminum.
Also is there any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and
mill practices that you might recommend to a newb?
|
Re: Which lube do you use
I would like a copy if possible.? No rush.
?
Bruce
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 8:37 PM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Which lube do you use
?
?
Mike I would be
very interested Thanks
?
Mike@...
?
The
South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold
true today.
The
copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no
charge.
I
have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It
is a little over 3 megs.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
?
Excuse me if this question has already been
asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool.
Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a
mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting
oil? Most of my work will be done with
aluminum.
?
Also is there
any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill
practices that you might recommend to a newb?
?
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
Re: Which lube do you use
Ebner Heating Air Conditioning Co.
Mike I would be
very interested Thanks
?
Mike@...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
The
South Bend "HOW TO RUN A LATHE" book is very old, but the practices still hold
true today.
The
copyright has run out on it long ago, so it can be reproduced at no
charge.
I
have a PDF file of the book which I can email to you if you are interested. It
is a little over 3 megs.
Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux
7x16
?
Excuse me if this question has already been
asked but I am curious as to what you recommend to keep cutting tools cool.
Do you recommend a pump to flood the tool and material being machined, a
mist coolant spray, or the old fashioned chip brush dunked in cutting
oil? Most of my work?will be done with
aluminum.
?
Also is there
any one book that stands out from the rest as far as lathe and mill
practices that you might recommend to a newb?
No virus found in this
message.
Checked by AVG -
Version: 2013.0.2897 / Virus
Database: 2639/6080 - Release Date: 02/04/13
|
gerry waclawiak
John Bernoth