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Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The Chinese New Year is 10 February, so you should be alright
?

Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Horsepower Resistor
?
?

On 02/03/2013 06:49 AM, Mark Schwiebert wrote:

Look for a supplier ,on ebay from china,most offer a free economy shipping.
I read the Chineese Govt is smart enough to allow super cheap shipping ,by putting mail on US bound ships,flights,etc. to allow exports to go out with out a customer worring about excess costs.
You think our Govt.,would do this to try to get US made goods out ,and increase jobs,& commerce.
The china made components are so cheap,I usuall buy 10.00 worth,and have spares,as I have found brand new ones that did not work either.


Our company buys items from China fairly often and the shipping is always amazing.? For a current customer project I need some high current solid state relays.? In the USA a 40 Amp relay is around $47 each plus shipping.? I ordered ten of them from the factory* and the total WITH FedEx Priority shipping is about $75.

One thing you have to watch for is holidays, they tend to shut everything down for major holidays.? In theory they got my package out before leaving for New Years...I have a FedEx tracking number and hope FedEx in China doesn't shut down until after the box has left the country.


* Shande Electric Factory, 
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand

Re: Horsepower Resistor

Den
 

Will give it a try.
Thanks

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" wrote:

I'm reasonably familiar with KB's website, Den, having used it to find UK distributors.

If all else fails, you could make one up yourself. Ceramic cased, 0.1 ohm 10 watt wirewound resistors seem pretty readily available, and four of those in parallel would give you 0.025 ohms. They would handle 40W, which is probably an unecessarily high rating for the job, but there's no harm in that.

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Den Strods wrote:

That was quick.
Thanks for your effort, I will ring them in ?the morning.
Cheers
Re: Horsepower Resistor

Den
 

I rang ABB Australia Pty Limited this morning and got a phone number for one of there retail outlets. Rang the second outlet and was told they were out off stock. They really didn't want to help me as I was told they would have to order from ABB Australia Pty Limited who would charge them postage fees and they would also charge me postage fees, so for a $4 part that would fit into an envelope it would cost $30.
I will be looking elsewhere, no wonder we by from China on the net.
And Australian Business wonders why people by from overseas.
Cheers

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "andyf1108" wrote:

The "dealer finder" on the KB Electronics website shows a single distributor in Australia:

Country/Area: Australia
City: Seven Hills, NSW
Name: ABB Australia Pty Limited
Phone: 02-9674-5455
Fax: 02-9674-2495
E-mail: sales.au@...
Web Site: www.Baldor.com.au
Product Line(s): AC & DC Drives
Stocking: This is a stocking distributor

Andy



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Den" wrote:

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.
Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Try Jaycar or Alltronics. In the eastern suburbs of Melbourne I would recommened going to Trucotts Electronic World.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne


On 03/02/13 22:39, MERTON B BAKER wrote:

?

Surely there are radio supply stores in Australia? I know it's vast &
populated mostly around the edges, but I would think that asking around
would turn up a solution.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Den
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 4:40 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Horsepower Resistor

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I
found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: Boring bar setup question

 

Hi John.

Yes, its a through hole. A couple of them actually.

One starts as solid bar, drilled to 1/2" then bored out to .625" or so to the proper depth to leave a .480" section with the 1/2" hole. This part goes over a stepped shaft.

The other starts with a .750" hole (I buy the material that way) and is bored out a bit to thread 13/16 x 26.

When it's all said and done the first part ends up turned and threaded for the second to screw over to become one piece. It's actually a handle upgrade.

I'll have to search D drill. I don't know what that is. And I don't have any way to make a HSS bar.

By the way, I've tried HSS inserts and have horrible chip welding. Do I just have crap steel inserts? Carbide has been so much better.

Thanks,

Ryan


John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote:

?

Hello Ryan.
You did not mention if this was a through hole that you have problems with.
If it is a blind hole,a boring bar with a flood coolant hole may work,to wash out the chips.
I agree with the comments about rake angles.
IMO carbide for cutting?aluminium never seems to work well.the chips tend to stick to the tip even with WD 40 as a cutting lubricant.
Try using a home made boring bar with a HSS tool bit.,and or a D bit drill made out of 3/4 " drill rod.
Just for interest,how did you get the hole roughed out in the first place?
If a through hole have you thought about boring from both ends,skimming the outside diameter and using a soft jaws in a 3 jaw chuck,
or a 4 jaw chuck, using a Dial indicator to get the concentricity when boring from the other end.

John L
Spain.

From: cnc sales <gcode.fi@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2013 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Boring bar setup question

?
Hi Ryan !
For good results, boring holes are typically limited to about 1.5-2x boring bar diameter.

As such, a 3/8 boring bar is only good to about 1/2 inches.
After this it will chatter with variable results.

All lathe tools work well only upto about 1-3x their size.
Ie a 1/2 inch tool will only work well to 1-1.5 inches deep.

However..
Alu is easy.

Your problem is rake.
CCMT is 7 degrees positive and you need to maintain this, *especially* when doing deep bores.
With a -5 degrees boring bar, you are losing the benefits of the insert, and greatly increasing the problems of the overly long, slim, thin bar.

It *can* be done with a 3/8 in alu but not well, imo.
You need to have at least 7 degrees rake, even? a bit more.

If you can make (buy) another bar (any steel) of near .7 inches, and have the bit be at zero-1 degree rake, it will go vastly better.
For alu, at .75 inches or about 18 mm, I would recommend about 1000 rpm, 0.1 - 0.06 mm cuts.


?
Hi group!

I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5¡ã negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.

I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.

Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?

Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan

-- 
-hanermo


Re: Horsepower Resistor

Jerry Durand
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

On 02/03/2013 06:49 AM, Mark Schwiebert wrote:
Look for a supplier ,on ebay from china,most offer a free economy shipping.
I read the Chineese Govt is smart enough to allow super cheap shipping ,by putting mail on US bound ships,flights,etc. to allow exports to go out with out a customer worring about excess costs.
You think our Govt.,would do this to try to get US made goods out ,and increase jobs,& commerce.
The china made components are so cheap,I usuall buy 10.00 worth,and have spares,as I have found brand new ones that did not work either.


Our company buys items from China fairly often and the shipping is always amazing.? For a current customer project I need some high current solid state relays.? In the USA a 40 Amp relay is around $47 each plus shipping.? I ordered ten of them from the factory* and the total WITH FedEx Priority shipping is about $75.

One thing you have to watch for is holidays, they tend to shut everything down for major holidays.? In theory they got my package out before leaving for New Years...I have a FedEx tracking number and hope FedEx in China doesn't shut down until after the box has left the country.


* Shande Electric Factory, 
-- 
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype:  jerrydurand

Re: Boring bar setup question

 

Thanks!

Do you think a "P" insert (11¡ã) would help? It's only 6¡ã but better than the 2 I have now.

cnc sales <gcode.fi@...> wrote:

?

Hi Ryan !
For good results, boring holes are typically limited to about 1.5-2x boring bar diameter.

As such, a 3/8 boring bar is only good to about 1/2 inches.
After this it will chatter with variable results.

All lathe tools work well only upto about 1-3x their size.
Ie a 1/2 inch tool will only work well to 1-1.5 inches deep.

However..
Alu is easy.

Your problem is rake.
CCMT is 7 degrees positive and you need to maintain this, *especially* when doing deep bores.
With a -5 degrees boring bar, you are losing the benefits of the insert, and greatly increasing the problems of the overly long, slim, thin bar.

It *can* be done with a 3/8 in alu but not well, imo.
You need to have at least 7 degrees rake, even? a bit more.

If you can make (buy) another bar (any steel) of near .7 inches, and have the bit be at zero-1 degree rake, it will go vastly better.
For alu, at .75 inches or about 18 mm, I would recommend about 1000 rpm, 0.1 - 0.06 mm cuts.


?

Hi group!

I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5¡ã negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.

I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.

Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?

Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan


-- 
-hanermo

Re: Boring bar setup question

John Lindo
 

Hello Ryan.
You did not mention if this was a through hole that you have problems with.
If it is a blind hole,a boring bar with a flood coolant hole may work,to wash out the chips.
I agree with the comments about rake angles.
IMO carbide for cutting?aluminium never seems to work well.the chips tend to stick to the tip even with WD 40 as a cutting lubricant.
Try using a home made boring bar with a HSS tool bit.,and or a D bit drill made out of 3/4 " drill rod.
Just for interest,how did you get the hole roughed out in the first place?
If a through hole have you thought about boring from both ends,skimming the outside diameter and using a soft jaws in a 3 jaw chuck,
or a 4 jaw chuck, using a Dial indicator to get the concentricity when boring from the other end.

John L
Spain.

From: cnc sales
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2013 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Boring bar setup question

?
Hi Ryan !
For good results, boring holes are typically limited to about 1.5-2x boring bar diameter.

As such, a 3/8 boring bar is only good to about 1/2 inches.
After this it will chatter with variable results.

All lathe tools work well only upto about 1-3x their size.
Ie a 1/2 inch tool will only work well to 1-1.5 inches deep.

However..
Alu is easy.

Your problem is rake.
CCMT is 7 degrees positive and you need to maintain this, *especially* when doing deep bores.
With a -5 degrees boring bar, you are losing the benefits of the insert, and greatly increasing the problems of the overly long, slim, thin bar.

It *can* be done with a 3/8 in alu but not well, imo.
You need to have at least 7 degrees rake, even? a bit more.

If you can make (buy) another bar (any steel) of near .7 inches, and have the bit be at zero-1 degree rake, it will go vastly better.
For alu, at .75 inches or about 18 mm, I would recommend about 1000 rpm, 0.1 - 0.06 mm cuts.


?
Hi group!

I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5¡ã negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.

I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.

Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?

Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan

--
-hanermo


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I agree with the QCTP thought, couple of reasons, ?FIRST, for me it ?was setting tool bit height! I¡¯m NOT a machinist, bought a 7X five years ago and the first ¡°upgrade¡± was the Quick Change Tool Post. ?Over the years I¡¯ve picked up a couple more tool holders, makes setting the height and tool changes a POC (piece of cake)

I went the ¡°Cheep¡± HF ?¡¯ tool route.¡­ mistake¡­¡­. Then I bought a ¡°pre-ground¡± set from Grizzly¡­¡­.. beautiful (expensive) wood case, real cutters! Of course I ?jammed em¡¯, dropped em¡¯, galled¡­. used and abused em¡¯, ?they got dull! What to do now, learn to grind my own. As a concept, up there with sliced bread. One can become? adequate with a cheap 6¡±grinder, and a ?little practice! ?LMS has (2) two items that were invaluable to me during my ¡°steep¡± learn curve. ?This video¡­ ? and these HSS blanks¡­.

?

All The Best,

?

Allen, on an island in SE Alaska

?

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Exibar
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:38 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

?




I second the QCTP setup....? I got one last year and I honestly don't know what I'd be doing without it right now....

?

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 8:42 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

?

?

Jeremy,

Do yourself a huge favor and get a QCTP setup from LMS. See: for their selection; I don¡¯t know which one you need right offhand, but they¡¯re very helpful if you ask. While you¡¯re at it, buy a few HSS toolbits and grind them according to your needs.

?

??????????????????????????????????????????????????? <>

?

Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:16 PM

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

?

?

When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy

?
Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

Jim Dunmyer
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Mike,
When I had my H.F. lathe, I bought a 17mm combination wrench at a flea market, then cut it about in half with an abrasive wheel. The box end of it is bent at an angle, and it hangs on the T.S. clamp nut. You can usually loosen/tighten the nut w/o actually removing the wrench at all. If you do have to move it, one additional swing will do the job. It¡¯s nearly as fast as a true cam-lock T.S., and clamps better. At least, it worked better than the cam-lock setup on my Micro-Mark 7X14.
?
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? <>
?

From: Exibar
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 12:05 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change
?
?

HI All!

??? I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well.? Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)

My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap??? I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?

I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit.? I see LMS has them for $30...? Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move?? will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock?? My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(

thanks!

? Mike B
Re: Boring bar setup question

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Ryan !
For good results, boring holes are typically limited to about 1.5-2x boring bar diameter.

As such, a 3/8 boring bar is only good to about 1/2 inches.
After this it will chatter with variable results.

All lathe tools work well only upto about 1-3x their size.
Ie a 1/2 inch tool will only work well to 1-1.5 inches deep.

However..
Alu is easy.

Your problem is rake.
CCMT is 7 degrees positive and you need to maintain this, *especially* when doing deep bores.
With a -5 degrees boring bar, you are losing the benefits of the insert, and greatly increasing the problems of the overly long, slim, thin bar.

It *can* be done with a 3/8 in alu but not well, imo.
You need to have at least 7 degrees rake, even? a bit more.

If you can make (buy) another bar (any steel) of near .7 inches, and have the bit be at zero-1 degree rake, it will go vastly better.
For alu, at .75 inches or about 18 mm, I would recommend about 1000 rpm, 0.1 - 0.06 mm cuts.


?

Hi group!

I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5¡ã negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.

I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.

Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?

Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan


-- 
-hanermo

Re: Boring bar setup question

 

Thanks! I'll read the .pdf's when I get home.

One thing I see from the thread is I may have got the wrong inserts. I probably should have got 20.50's with the .008" nose instead of 20.51's with an .016" nose.



WAM <ajawam2@...> wrote:

?

There's a great article on boring bar chatter:

A lot of math tho...

Long thin boring bars are prone to that.

Some comments here:


Do you have a larger diameter boring bar? That may help...

Also - tunable boring bar article:


Basically add some mass to change the resonant frequency ...

Ryan_Hodges wrote:

>Hi group!
>
>I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5¡ã negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.
>
>I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.
>
>Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?
>
>Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!
>
>Ryan
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Many complain about stock carbide stuff.

This is usually because the tools are not the right ones for the lathe !

Many cheap carbide sets are 0% and so on of an angle (rake).
In industrial use, negative angles are common.
This is because negative angle tools last lots longer, and produce parts very well for a long time, when sufficient tool pressure (derived from HP and rigidity) are used.
These are impossible to utilise on common cheap 7x-11x lathes.

A small, low powered 7x needs either HSS or a positive angle carbide insert,
CCMT is a common, well known, very succesful, solution. 7 degrees positive rake.
I use these on both 7x and 12x industrial stuff with great results.

Industrial stuff often needs high pressure and heat to work well.
Minimum cutting depths are 0.2- .3 or so mm in medium (100MM) diameters.
This needs several Hp.


?

When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy



-- 
-hanermo

Re: Boring bar setup question

 

There's a great article on boring bar chatter:

A lot of math tho...

Long thin boring bars are prone to that.

Some comments here:


Do you have a larger diameter boring bar? That may help...

Also - tunable boring bar article:


Basically add some mass to change the resonant frequency ...





Ryan_Hodges wrote:

Hi group!
I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5??? negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.
I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.
Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?
Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links
Boring bar setup question

 

Hi group!

I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5¡ã negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.

I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.

Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?

Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan
Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

Ellis, I never thought of using a ring spanner,good idea.No work to do with your method.
mike

From: Ellis Cory
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2013 3:52 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

?
?
Mike wrote....... I did not use a camlock, instead I made another nut higher than the original and drilled and tapped in several places for a lever handle.......
?
I didn't make a camlock. I used a ring spanner, the type with an angle to the handle for hand clearance. Used upside down, it does the job perfectly, clearing the compound slide and staying in place.
Cheers.
??????? Ellis
Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

I have the kit while the install could be a little fiddly...to a point of annoying the result is great I also have drilled and tapped the 1/2" hole to a 1/2" NPT to accept brass insert so the shaft of the cam can ride on wider bushing type of a hole...worked for me. no miss-alignment?was?experienced?although I do take the?tail-stock?on and off?frequently?

On Sat, Feb 2, 2013 at 10:52 PM, michael kolchins <kwoodhands@...> wrote:
?

Can't help with the switch but might help with the tailstock. I did not use a camlock, instead I made another nut higher than the original and drilled and tapped in several places for a lever handle. I made the nut about 1" high I think,I'm not near the shop to look at it.Then tightened the nut and marked it for where I wanted to have the handle.I drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 thread at my mark and also another at the left and right of the first tapped hole. The second and third tapped holes were for just in case I might need them to tighten or loosen the tail stock.This worked well for me so I did the same thing on my larger lathe,10x22.You won't need to touch the tail stock ,just make the tall nut and lever handle. You can use round stock or hex stock which I used.Round ?stock would need at least two flats milled so a wrench can be used if needed.I can only think of a couple of times I needed to use the wrench to tighten the tail stock. Both times I was drilling a large bore in ?aluminum bronze and the tail stock slipped a bit.
mike

From: Exibar <exibar@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2013 12:05 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

?
HI All!
??? I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well.? Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)
?
My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap??? I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?
?
I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit.? I see LMS has them for $30...? Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move?? will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock?? My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(
?
thanks!
? Mike B
Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

Mike;
Before you install a new switch,try spraying it out from the bottom,with plastic safe elec.cleaner.
Put a towell over everything else to prevent overspray.
There is usually enough room on the bottom ,around where the tabs are bent over the pc board type insulating material,where the connectors are,to get some spray in.
Mine was full of the same red grease the lathe was packed in.
When It got cool out in the shop,it would quit working till the shop got to 70 deg.
If it doesnt help,give LMS a call and get a new one.


--- On Sun, 2/3/13, MERTON B BAKER wrote:

From: MERTON B BAKER
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 11:09 AM

?
Swapping switches is a simple soldering job if you know how to work on circuit boards.? The TS camlocks?I made for my 7x lathes work very well, and I'm sure the LMS ones will, too.? LMS is a very reliable bunch.
?
Mert
?
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Exibar
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 12:05 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

HI All!

?????? I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well.?? Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)

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My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap????? I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?

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I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit.?? I see LMS has them for $30...?? Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move??? will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock??? My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(

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thanks!

?? Mike B

Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

Look for a supplier ,on ebay from china,most offer a free economy shipping.
I read the Chineese Govt is smart enough to allow super cheap shipping ,by putting mail on US bound ships,flights,etc. to allow exports to go out with out a customer worring about excess costs.
You think our Govt.,would do this to try to get US made goods out ,and increase jobs,& commerce.
The china made components are so cheap,I usuall buy 10.00 worth,and have spares,as I have found brand new ones that did not work either.


--- On Sun, 2/3/13, MERTON B BAKER wrote:

From: MERTON B BAKER
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Horsepower Resistor
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 11:39 AM

?
Surely there are radio supply stores in Australia? I know it's vast &
populated mostly around the edges, but I would think that asking around
would turn up a solution.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
[mailto:]On Behalf Of Den
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 4:40 AM
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Horsepower Resistor

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I
found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.

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Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: Horsepower Resistor

MERTON B BAKER
 

Surely there are radio supply stores in Australia? I know it's vast &
populated mostly around the edges, but I would think that asking around
would turn up a solution.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Den
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 4:40 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Horsepower Resistor


I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I
found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.



------------------------------------

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