Nope. The plug is pre drilled with the tap drill, and locked in place.
The tap is then run in from below, where the pre-existing threads are
undamaged, and thus will segue into the insert with no problem,
especially if it has been fitted correctly at the lower end.

UPDATE:

A trip to the bolt store and 79 cents later I have a 5mm longer bolt. It
has 6 turns before it snugs down. Much better than before. The original
tool post stud makes 8 turns to hit the bottom of the same hole.

So for it looks like the simplest answer is a longer bolt and no repair
or replacement. This weekend will tell when I continue with machining
the cylinder.

Thank you to all who responded. That is what I love about this forum.

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 20:59 -0700, george curtis wrote:

i gave up on helicoils over 25 years ago. they are just the worst
thing. i've since used time serts.

george



______________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew <akayton1@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tue, October 11, 2011 3:33:41 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound


I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where
do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square
to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew

UPDATE:

A trip to the bolt store and 79 cents later I have a 5mm longer bolt. It
has 6 turns before it snugs down. Much better than before. The original
tool post stud makes 8 turns to hit the bottom of the same hole.

So for it looks like the simplest answer is a longer bolt and no repair
or replacement. This weekend will tell when I continue with machining
the cylinder.

Thank you to all who responded. That is what I love about this forum.

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 20:59 -0700, george curtis wrote:

i gave up on helicoils over 25 years ago. they are just the worst
thing. i've since used time serts.

george



______________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew <akayton1@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tue, October 11, 2011 3:33:41 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound


I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where
do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square
to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew

More elegant still, use a tap
drill to remove the damaged threads, and thread the drilled insert before
installing it with loctite.

If I have the problem correctly, you have a hole, formerly threaded
for the
stud which secures the toolpost, with the first two or three threads
either
torn out, or damaged. Assuming that I have the right idea of the
situation, here is what I would do. The hole in the topslide is tapped
all
the way trough the casting. I don't know this, it may not be. No
matter,
take the top slide casting off the lathe. Now, there are two choices;
first, the easy one. Make sure the original threads go all the way
thru the
casting. I know the hole does, but the threads are an assumption. If
they
go through, fine, if they don't, find the right tap and see that they
do.
File off any burrs left on the top of the casting that might have been
left
when the original stud tore out. Next, get, or make, a replacement
stud.
Maybe a piece of all-thread. In any case, it wants to be longer than
the
original one by 6 or 8 threads, we need it to thread deeper into the
topslide casting. That's the "quick & dirty" method. Now, a more
elegant
one.
Drill out only the damaged threads, no more, and make a steel plug
that's a
close sliding fit in the drilled out portion of the hole, and drill it
through with the tap drill for the thread on the stud.
It wants to fit a few thou below the topslide surface when in place.
Put it
in with hi-strength Loctite, let it set up a day or two, and going in
from
the good threads below, tap it for the stud. More elegant still, use a
tap
drill to remove the damaged threads, and thread the drilled insert
before
installing it with loctite. In either case the bottom of the plug
should be
turned conical to the same angle left by the drill. Otherwise, there
will
be a gap, filled with swarf from tapping the plug.

The stud should stand at right angles to the top of the slide. If the
bottom of the toolpost is undamaged, whether the stud sticks up true
is
moot, when things are tightened up, the toolpost will make it so.

Hope this helps.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 6:34 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound

I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where
do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square
to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:

If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.

Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.

On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:

G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster

engine.

I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no

luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing

would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out

of

the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the

compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I

knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also

plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied

bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is

worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

If I have the problem correctly, you have a hole, formerly threaded
for the
stud which secures the toolpost, with the first two or three threads
either
torn out, or damaged. Assuming that I have the right idea of the
situation, here is what I would do. The hole in the topslide is tapped
all
the way trough the casting. I don't know this, it may not be. No
matter,
take the top slide casting off the lathe. Now, there are two choices;
first, the easy one. Make sure the original threads go all the way
thru the
casting. I know the hole does, but the threads are an assumption. If
they
go through, fine, if they don't, find the right tap and see that they
do.
File off any burrs left on the top of the casting that might have been
left
when the original stud tore out. Next, get, or make, a replacement
stud.
Maybe a piece of all-thread. In any case, it wants to be longer than
the
original one by 6 or 8 threads, we need it to thread deeper into the
topslide casting. That's the "quick & dirty" method. Now, a more
elegant
one.
Drill out only the damaged threads, no more, and make a steel plug
that's a
close sliding fit in the drilled out portion of the hole, and drill it
through with the tap drill for the thread on the stud.
It wants to fit a few thou below the topslide surface when in place.
Put it
in with hi-strength Loctite, let it set up a day or two, and going in
from
the good threads below, tap it for the stud. More elegant still, use a
tap
drill to remove the damaged threads, and thread the drilled insert
before
installing it with loctite. In either case the bottom of the plug
should be
turned conical to the same angle left by the drill. Otherwise, there
will
be a gap, filled with swarf from tapping the plug.

The stud should stand at right angles to the top of the slide. If the
bottom of the toolpost is undamaged, whether the stud sticks up true
is
moot, when things are tightened up, the toolpost will make it so.

Hope this helps.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 6:34 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound

I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where
do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square
to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:

If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.

Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.

On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:

G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster

engine.

I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no

luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing

would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out

of

the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the

compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I

knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also

plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied

bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is

worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

First thing I did when I mounted my A2Z toolpost on mine was to make a
longer stud so that I could use the stock adjuster nut/handle rather
than the bolt. I guess I kind of foresaw your problem, the bolt just
didn't seem like a good idea, repeatedly threading into relatively
soft chinese metal. Plus the stock handle is way easier to use than
having to grab a wrench every time you need to move the post. At the
same time I also made a spacer for said longer stud, so I could still
use the stock 4-way post without having to change the stud. I leave
one of those set up with a parting tool and a grooving tool. A bit
more rigid than the A2Z is for those operations, especially in steel.

Dan

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Andrew <akayton1@...> wrote:

UPDATE:

A trip to the bolt store and 79 cents later I have a 5mm longer

bolt. It

has 6 turns before it snugs down. Much better than before. The

original

tool post stud makes 8 turns to hit the bottom of the same hole.

So for it looks like the simplest answer is a longer bolt and no

repair

or replacement. This weekend will tell when I continue with

machining

the cylinder.

Thank you to all who responded. That is what I love about this

forum.

Cheers,

Andrew

UPDATE:

A trip to the bolt store and 79 cents later I have a 5mm longer bolt. It
has 6 turns before it snugs down. Much better than before. The original
tool post stud makes 8 turns to hit the bottom of the same hole.

So for it looks like the simplest answer is a longer bolt and no repair
or replacement. This weekend will tell when I continue with machining
the cylinder.

Thank you to all who responded. That is what I love about this forum.

Cheers,

Andrew

On 10/12/2011 8:19 AM, ralph_pattersonus wrote:

Yes, but... Norm measured the thread OD at 0.153". Unless he used thread wires, chances are the actual thread is 5/32 - 32. Thread crowns tend to wear a little and are sometimes rounded over a bit as well. Chances are the major diameter is 0.156" and that is only 0.003" larger than what he measured.

Thus, Victor lists 5/32" x 32 taps and dies, which is what I noted in a previous posting and what I would buy if the economics to do so exist.

Victor is the best place I've found to get special taps and dies in both metric and imperial. I do get their catalog but generally go online to see what they have. Interesting to note that they mention #7, however. I wouldn't have seen that online.

JerryK

I just received a catalog

#20100A from Victor Machinery Exchange

(www.victornet.com)in NYC (purchased a M5x.8 left hand die).

On page

116, under "Special Taps" is listed #7 taps in pitches 30,

32, 36,

48, 56, 64, 72, and 80 tpi. The table for special dies only

offers

pitches 36-48, so your 32 pitch would be a custom request,

which they

say they can do. Ordinarily, the #7 size are only produced as

wood

and sheet metal screws, as stated somewhere in a reference

book.

Machine screw makers skip the sizes 7 and 9. Check out the

web site.

--- In 7x12minilathe@...

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>, "nps0"

<w6nim@...> wrote:

I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found

that the

thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but

the OD is

0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's

Handbook

doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine

screw size?

I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be

nice to

clean up the threads.

Norm

I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to clean up the threads.

Norm

If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.

Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.

On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:

G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine.

I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing

would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of
the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I

knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also

plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is

worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand

i gave up on helicoils over 25 years ago. they are just the worst
thing. i've since used time serts.

george



______________________________________________________________________
From: Andrew <akayton1@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Tue, October 11, 2011 3:33:41 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Damaged compound


I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where
do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square
to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew

I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two also.

What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before from any company.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet.

I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do
I get it done?

More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to
the surface?

Cheers,

Andrew

On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:

If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt
and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials.

Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger
diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger
and put in a threaded insert.

On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:

G'Day to all,

My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine.

I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner
diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from
stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the
cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter
was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck.

When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing

would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of
the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound.

When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I

knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the
bolt.

At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also

plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt.

The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is

worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne




------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
Skype: jerrydurand