Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- 7x12MiniLathe
- Messages
Search
|
Re: Threading question
There are a gaggle of odd ball threads it might be, it's close to an M4 x 0.75 (M 0.75 corresponds to 33 3/4 tpi) which isn't a common thread either!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Here's the chart I find useful: Which is contained in a really neat collection of tech references: Lacking a die, a thread restoring file is nice for final clean up of single point cut threads. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nps0" <w6nim@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Carbide wheel
Brazing is how the carbide is attached to the steel shank, the carbide itself is sintered.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Ray Kornele <krazykyngekorny@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Carbide wheel
Not exactly:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
My point was that green wheels don't give as fine a finish as diamond wheels because the green wheels don't grind the actual carbide particles. Then again, it's been a long time since I used a green wheel! With newer carbide being finer grained, it may not make as much difference as it used to. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Leo Cormier <leocor@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?
nissan.370z
Grizzly wants me to check for other damage and claims it should be ok as far as still being true. they want to send parts to fix the damaged stuff, but I was thinking either a discount if the rest is ok or just a new machine that has not been dropped at all.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks. I haven't spoke with the shipper yet other than the delivery guy driving the truck, he marked the damage on the sheet while I said what I could see on first inspection. I then emailed pictures to Grizzly within 5 minutes of delivery. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Bruce Freeman <freemab222@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?
Contact the shipping company at once and make a claim against their insurance.? Sounds like the whole machine should be replaced for you.? If you delay or throw away packaging material, your claim will be very weak.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 7:51 PM, nissan.370z <ebandit@...> wrote:
--
Bruce NJ |
|
Re: Carbide wheel
Hilsch was the original inventor of the vortex tube cooling system.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
See ?
|
|
Re: Threading question
Jerome Kimberlin
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOn 10/11/2011 11:37 AM, nps0 wrote:? Sounds like a fairly standard 5/32-32 thread to me.? You can get these at . JerryK |
|
My new Grizzly Lathe damaged in shipping, what to do and look for?
nissan.370z
I just got my Grizzly 7x12 lathe and it is my first lathe ever. It was dropped during shipping on its side. the package was roughed up with a few gouges in it. The Styrofoam inside was busted up a little on the head end but was still there. the splash guard is lightly dented and the tray has a good dent in the back just behind the spindle. I will post a picture or two also.
What should I look for that could also be damaged? Can it be knocked out of true? I have no lathe experience and do not want to try and learn on a damaged lathe. If it is ok should I get new parts from them or demand a discount or what of anyone had experience with this sort of issue before from any company. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I may test it out and inspect closer in the morning because they asked me too do that and call back with any other details. I have only opened the box and took pictures and marked the shipping info before signing it. Have not did a close inspection yet. |
|
Re: Threading question
Randal Williams
Most cleaning rods use an 8-32 thread if they are greater than .22 caliber.? For .17 and .20, you need a 5-32 thread. -rw From: Robert Francis To: 7x12minilathe@... Cc: Norm Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 2:54 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading question
?
FWIW
.8mm Thread is really close to 32TPI. Don't think you'd be able to tell, unless you had a really long piece. |
|
Re: Damaged compound
Andrew,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I went down to the shop and looked at mine. The bolt threads in almost 9 threads, so if you still have 4-5 threads left, that might do it. Also a stud and nut would take some of the guess work out of cutting a longer bolt as I suggested in my previous post. Frank --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Andrew" <akayton1@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Damaged compound
Hi Andrew,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If you only pulled a few threads from the compound, there may be several more usable threads left. If so, get a longer bolt and cut it a 1/16" or so shy of bottoming out in the hole, but still tightens the post. It might be enough to get you by. In the meantime I'd order a new top slide from LMS. Good luck with the Webster. I made one, and it runs great. I'm currently building Jerry Howell Powerhouse, which is slightly bigger, but very similar. Frank --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Andrew" <akayton1@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Damaged compound
I do have access to a drill press and mill.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What I also need is a source of the insert in Australia. One with wheelchair access. That failing mail-order/Internet will be the way to go. I try and support local business's where I can. Cheers, Andrew On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:40 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:
Generally you do the insert yourself. Do you have a drill press or |
|
Re: Damaged compound
Michael,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks for the response. The tool was set dead centre which might be part of the problem. I was parting a 57mm diameter piece of cast iron. The overhang might have been too much resulting in it being to low. I feel that the chatter started as the thread was failing. I misread the situation and tightened the usual suspects. The gibs and carriage tend to be the culprits if there is chatter. These were tightened so that nothing would move. The only item moving was the one axis to do the plunge cut. I am looking for the right way of fixing IF it can be fixed at all. Cheers, Andrew On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 16:03 -0700, Michael Jablonski wrote:
|
|
Re: Damaged compound
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHello
Andrew,
?
It
sounds like your parting tool was set too low on the work and was being pulled
in and under the work putting excessive stress on the tool post bolt. The
parting tool needs to be set dead on center. The chatter was probably from
turning?too fast. I know you didn't ask for any advice on why this happened
but thought I'd throw my two cents in.
?
Now
you ask if it is worth repairing the compound. If you can drill and tap the
compound to accept a large bolt then I'd try to repair it. I personally don't
think that a helicoil would hold up for long but that depends on how hard you
push the lathe. It's a cheap fast attempt at saving it.
?
Good
luck and please let us know how it turns out.
?
Michael
?
?
|
|
Re: Damaged compound
Jerry Durand
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýGenerally you do the insert yourself.? Do you have a drill press or mill?There's various types of inserts, you might be able to get by with a press fit one from the bottom.? Something like this (if pictures work in this group): On 10/11/2011 03:33 PM, Andrew wrote: I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do I get it done? More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to the surface? Cheers, Andrew -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
|
Re: Damaged compound
I was thinking of seeing if a "helicoil" could work. Of course where do
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I get it done? More importantly, does the toolpost bolt have to be absolutely square to the surface? Cheers, Andrew On Tue, 2011-10-11 at 15:23 -0700, Jerry Durand wrote:
|
|
Re: Damaged compound
Jerry Durand
If I remember right from my mechanical engineering classes two full
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
threads of a bolt *should* be all you need. That's assuming the bolt and nut are cut to spec out of proper materials. Other than that, do you have room in your tool post to use a larger diameter bolt? If not you'd have to make the hole quite a bit bigger and put in a threaded insert. On 10/11/2011 03:14 PM, Andrew wrote:
G'Day to all, --
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand |
|
Damaged compound
G'Day to all,
My task yesterday was to work on the cylinder for my Webster engine. I had hogged out the fins, the lower portions and drilled the inner diameter to 13mm. The last operation was to part off the work from stock when I noticed a lot of chatter. I stopped, cleaned up all the cast iron swarf and tightened the gibs. I tied again and the chatter was just as bad. I sharpened the tool which look OK and still no luck. When I tried after tightening the carriage and compound do nothing would move I tried again and the A2Z tool post (LMS #2461) came out of the compound. The holding bolt pulled the threads out of the compound. When examined I noticed the bolt only penetrated a 3 or 4 turns. I knew this as the threaded part was still there like a spring on the bolt. At this time I need to either fix or replace the compound. I also plan to buy or even make a suitable replacement for the supplied bolt. The reason for this post is to ask advice on if the compound is worth repairing and to warn others before they have problems. Cheers, Andrew in Melbourne |
|
Re: Threading question
M4x8 is a "metric special", i.e. not the standard thread for an M4.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
But it is available, e.g. the tap is available from Enco: Didn't find the die at Enco but if there's a tap, there's a die... somewhere ;-) Check the thread on the M5x8 bolt that secures the gear cover on your 7x machine against a 32 tpi thread gauge. The gib screws are M4x7, the common thread for M4 size. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Norm <w6nim@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: Threading question
Andrew Franks
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
Best fit would probably be a BSC?(British Standard Cycle) 0.1563 (5/32)" x?32 tpi, 60¡ã. Still available from Tracy Tools in the UK, but probably unheard of on the other side?of the pond. Trouble is,?it was long ago superseded by the rather coarser , and I doubt if much BSC is around?nowadays. Mert's suggestion is probably the best way out. ? Andy? ? To: 7x12minilathe@... From: w6nim@... Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 12:47:23 -0700 Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Threading question ?
On 10/11/2011 12:02 PM, GadgetBuilder wrote:
> > > Probably metric, M4x8 > > John > > --- In 7x12minilathe@... > , "nps0" wrote: >> >> I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the >> thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is >> 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook >> doesn't list a 7xanything thread. IS there a #7 machine screw size? >> I guess that's why we have lathes - but a die would be nice to >> clean up the threads. >> >> Norm >> > > __ Hmmm -? Interesting combination.? I measured a 4mm screw at 0.155", so the diameter is right, but the thread is definitely 32 tpi, not the same as the 4mm screw.? It's a skinny rod, so there's not enough meat to go up to an 8-32 tap.? Guess it's lathe or nothing - - - Thanks for the suggestions. Norm |
GadgetBuilder
to navigate to use esc to dismiss