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When is a Sieg not a Sieg?
G'day all.
I recently told you of my testing of the leadscrew mechincal fuse, it works!. Yes, I damaged the 80T gear. Thankfully it is not beyond recovery, so that it is now in the tuit basket. I had previously purchased a spares kit from LMS and this morning dug the replacement 80T gwear out of the bag. Surprise! the key way is 3mm wide not 4mm as for my lathe. I know my key is 4mm because a few weeks ago I dropped my key in the swarf (on the floor I thought) No amount of grovelling could find it so I grabbed a MS tent peg and milled a new key; actually I used a file. BTW I found the key hiding under the control box this morning. I recently got an idler sleeve and key from LMS only to find tha the key on that is 3mm as is the replacement LS key I purchased. The 57T & 65T gears I purchased from LMS also have 3mm keyways whilst the gears that came with the lathe have 4mm key ways. Thankfully a file can address most of the problems. I can probably file a T profile key for the sleeve, 3mm one side and 4mm the other. The QUESTIONS:- When and how did the change occur? My lathe has similar features to the yellow Cummins, eg, square not H shaped saddle, way wipers, ball oilers, nut on RH end of lead screw, etc. Some much earlier posts commented that the yellow Cummins lathe was not made by Sieg. Have others with yellow Cummins or Chestern Conquest lathes had the same experience? The present Cummins lathe is blue and the pictures don't show the features I refer to. Have you found other dissimilarities? Maybe Chris of LMS is lurking so he could comment? Finally, why are Tuit baskets square?? One good turn deserves another. Regards. Ian |
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Re: Advice Sought for New User
Mike Payson
Hi Nicipi,
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I'm certainly not an expert. I'm only a bit more advanced then you are. It sounds like what you want to do should be well within the capabilities of the lathe. It might take you several tries to get the process down, but the nice thing about doing a bunch of the same part is you have plenty of opportunity to practice. FWIW, you might want to start with some tubing (such as ) instead of rod stock. (Or maybe not, like I said, I'm a newbie too...) Mike On 3/30/07, nicipi <nicipi@...> wrote:
First, thanks for all your feedback Mike, John, Ian and Mike - you |
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Re: Tool post mods by "Driggars"
Clint D
Ron
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That is actually Rance's tool post mods, I just uploaded the pix for him. so, Rance gets the credit, no matter how much I would love to receive it 8-) Clint Ronald Durbin wrote: Hi, Clint. I just saw your drawings of the tool post modification in the photos section. I have done this with a smaller post, except that I used set screws (or grub screws, as our British brothers and sisters call them) comming up from the bottom. To adjust, just undo the retaining nut on top, lift up the post, back off the top screw slightly, engage (run further in) the bottom screw tightly, and replace the post as per normal. This sometimes take a few tries, but once the height is achieved, all is well. Great drawings, by the way!. Ron. |
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Re: Advice Sought for New User
First, thanks for all your feedback Mike, John, Ian and Mike - you
guys have added a lot to my sense of what's involved in this endeavor. I should at least clarify my tolerances. The wall thickness can actually be anywhere between 16thou and 32thou, and every one that I make can be in that range (don't all need to be identical); the only restriction here is that it still be flarable. Also, the thickness should be relative to the 0.437" outer diameter of the main part of the tube (the 0.437" can be plus/minus 5thou or maybe even 10thou). It is important that the 0.625" "outward rolled-like bead" be clean and rounded (a picture would really help here - I have a photo and a schematic but don't know how to share it with you guys). Otherwise, the surfaces don't need to be perfect, so for example, as John points out, the inside of the tube can be done with just drill/bore (if I'm using the right wording). What I first need to do is make sure I understand the procedural options here. Each of you guys have added something unique to try, and I've been reading your instructions over and over. What's just now becoming a little clearer to me are things like what does the tailstock do, what are the options for supporting the piece, what are centers, etc., and most importantly, what is a mandrel and how is it used (so that I can implement Mike's technique or variant thereof - the mandrel seems to be a key here.) It certainly would be helpful to see one of these machines up close and in action. I even looked on youtube but only one video came up when I searched on "mini-lathe" and it wasn't very enlightening. Nicipi |
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Re: Advice Sought for New User
It's well within the lathe's capabilities. The tricky part is going
to be working with the thin wall without tearing or distorting the piece. Since it's only 1" long, I'd make it in one chucking, parting the finished piece off of a length of stock. Rather than flaring it after it's made into a tube, consider machining the flare while it's made into tubing. 6 jaw chucks are ideal for working thin walled tubular pieces, the clamping force is distributed over more area than with a 3 jaw. For tubular work, collets are also convenient. Since they distribute the clamping forces over even more area, they're better than a jawed chuck. They're also more accurate than most chucks. You can solve the rechucking problem by making an adjustable backplate for the chuck, ideal with a 4" chuck, since you need a separate backplate to mount it. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nicipi" <nicipi@...> wrote: part that is essentially a tube (aluminum alloy 6061) that has an outsidewant to be able to flare the end when I'm finished, so my first questionis, by milling the aluminum on a mini-lathe, will that ruin the temperof the alloy such that it can't be flared afterward? My secondquestion is this: I also want to start from a stock of outside diameter of0.625 inches, reason being that I want one end (not to be flared) to beleft with a "bead" of a diameter 0.625 inches. Can these lathes do thiskind of thing, that is, make tube that one would get as if you had amachine that form an "outward rolled end"? |
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Re: Advice Sought for New User
G'day nicipi.
You have some sound adice from Mike & John. The limitation to what you want to do will be the strength of the material and your skill. I take it by your question that you may not have used a lathe before. Having a specific project is a great excuse for increasing your retinue of tools, I should know, my shop is full of them! If you have this project as an excuse to buy a lathe which you've always wanted, then go ahead. Be prepared to spend time gaining and improving your skill, this is the best part, very good for your self esteem. IMHO for every hour spent improving the lathe to get better outcomes, 10 hours will be spent improving your personal skills. The scrap bucket is a great invention! The problems you will face with what you propose include: Distortion of the 16thou walls of the tube as you take the final cut, the tube wall may even tear. If made from tube then distortion in the 3 jaw chuck. Mike's proposal with the mandrell will help over come these problems. For me I would make the part out of bar and drill and bore the hole to depth. Insert a mandell in the outer end to support the work on the tailstock then turn down to the diamemters you require. You will have to experiment; it may be better turning the 0.625" diameter at the TS end. Also doing the reduction of diameter to the 16thou wall thichness may be better as one full depth cut with a sery slow feed rate. TOLERANCE: No! I'm not talking about putting up with my comments! No machined part is every exactly the same dimension, CNC stuff may be close, but never identical. You have given us dimensions but have not said what the tolerances are. That is, the range of internal diameter, wall thickness, collar diameter and lengths. Be warned. IMHO, as a newbie, you will be lucky to get within 3thou on any dimension. By now you will have either decided this is not for you or become excited at the prospect of increasing the range of your skills. As an alternative I am sure there are a number of skilled minilathe owners with some time to spend to make or try to make these parts for you for some recompence. As I say. One good turn deserves another. Regards, Ian |
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Tool post mods by "Driggars"
Hi, Clint. I just saw your drawings of the tool post modification in
the photos section. I have done this with a smaller post, except that I used set screws (or grub screws, as our British brothers and sisters call them) comming up from the bottom. To adjust, just undo the retaining nut on top, lift up the post, back off the top screw slightly, engage (run further in) the bottom screw tightly, and replace the post as per normal. This sometimes take a few tries, but once the height is achieved, all is well. Great drawings, by the way!. Ron. |
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Re: A question on tapers
andrew franks
Thanks, Marcello - the Jacobs site told me all I needed to know
Andy.. "MZT.Groups" <mzt.groups@...> wrote: > So, a drill chuck arbor is needed, MT2 for the tailstock and the same (but shorter) to fit into the chuck. No suppliers seem to list anAndy, go to < > then select "Technical Support" on the menu on the left. on the bottom of the following page there's a link to Technical Information: Download (pdf) HTH Marcello --------------------------------- Copy addresses and emails from any email account to Yahoo! Mail - quick, easy and free. Do it now... |
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Re: Advice Sought for New User
Mike Payson
Would there be any benefit of a 6-jaw chuck in an application like this?
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) On 3/30/07, born4something <ajs@...> wrote:
Hi again Nicipi (is that your preferred handle?), |
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Re: Tail Stock Cam Lock Kit installed!
TO help contain the dry dust, put a magnet in a baggie and locate it
near your cutting. --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote: blunder. cast rathereven ifiron uses an air blast to cool the tool and to remove the chips. thana tarp covered (when working) spare bedroom in the apartment. |
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Re: circuit board diagram
Jim RabidWolf
These are paired in .66 ohms to give a 10 wat .33 ohm resistor - the
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original they used is not longer in manufacture. This resistors are used in current sense for the PWM. Rabid Uncle Rabid ( ) We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills "Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done" (Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!) (Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!) ----- Original Message -----
From: "born4something" <ajs@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 2:07 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram Hi Ian, 66 ohms sounds a bit high. You may have tricked people with that space between the R and 66. Electronics types often use the prefix as a decimal point (like 1k2 means 1.2k-ohms) and when there is no prefix they just insert the base symbol, R. So R66 is likely 0.66 ohms. It's a convenient notation and avoids using those little dots that don't print clearly and are often multiplied when photocopying stuff! Check the other resistor. If it is 0.66 ohms I'd expect quite a reasonable reading in circuit without even unsoldering it as the surrounding components are unlikely to be anywhere near as low as that. If they are, it's likely a failed FET or triac, depending on your model. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., andrew franks <andyf1108@...> wrote: about the J, though - could represent a tolerance (as in plus or minus a certain percentage from the marked resistance value). However, 66 ohms isn't a standard "preffered" value - 68 ohms is, though. Can you unsolder its twin, if it has identical markings, and check it? If it is 66 ohms, you may have to use a couple of 33 ohm ones, and connect them in series (though if you use 68 ohms, it's probably close enough). As to wattage, if you can't get 5 watts from Maplin orsomewhere, get the next size up. I wonder what made it burn out, though? Hopefully, it wassomething simple like a short circuit caused by swarf. Andydead circuit board. A new board will cost ???85 so I am looking to repair it. Theonly fault I can see is a blown ceramic block, one of a pair, which isa creamic resistor? Does anyone have a circuit diagram or can giveme the specification of the part. Thanks IanFind out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes. Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: circuit board diagram
Jim RabidWolf
(Not to mention the fact the older boards actually had resistors that said
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".66 Ohms" <G>) ----- Original Message -----
From: "Radek Benedikt" <bcl@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 11:30 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram On Friday 30 March 2007 06:47, Ed wrote: I agree that it's .66 ohm. Although all manufacturers have their ownOf course, R - means Ohm k - means kilo Ohms (1 000 ohms) M - means mega Ohms (1 000 000 ohms) and because dot point is very small -:) this multipliers is used as dot point 1R0 - 1.0 Ohm 1k0 - 1.0 kilo Ohm - 1 000 Ohm R68 - 0.68 Ohm !!! WARNING !!! R may be used also as numbering on schematics eg. R33 - resistor number 33 numbering may be also printed on PCB, but not on components in this case resistors. New way of create value numbers is value folloved multiplier If you see in resistor eg. 332 it's 33 * 10^2 = 3k3 (= 33 plus two zero), this is typical for SMD resistors and resistors marked by color code Radek Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: circuit board diagram
Jim RabidWolf
IT's A ROYAL PAIN is what it is <G>
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Every time I look at one of those markings, I have to run thru it in my head - USUALLY, I get it right, though one in a while CRS creeps in (and if you don't get that treated, it turns into C.R.A.F.T.) Just give me a color code, PLEASE!!! <G> Or spell it out... Rabid Uncle Rabid ( ) We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills "Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done" (Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!) (Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!) ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed" <edo@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 10:47 PM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: circuit board diagram I agree that it's .66 ohm. Although all manufacturers have their own way of creating part numbers, they're all pretty consistent with numbers to the right of R being decimal. If it was a 66 Ohm resistor the part number would be 5W66RJ. Here's an excerpt from the Ohmite catalog that tells you how to create their part numbers. The part number for 5 watt .7 Ohm resistor would be 805FR70 - they just happen to use F instead of W. STANDARD PART NUMBERS FOR STANDARD RESISTANCE VALUES Match value from "prefix" row with value from "suffix" column to create part number. --------------------------------------------- watts---> 5W 10W 25W 50W prefix--> 805F-- 810F-- 825F-- 850F-- --------------------------------------------- ohms | suffix | availability (see key) --------------------------------------------- 0.005 ---R005 B B 0.010 ---R010 B B 0.025 ---R025 B B 0.1 ---R10 A A 0.3 ---R30 B C --------------------------------------------- 0.5 ---R50 B C 0.7 ---R70 C C 1.0 ---1R0 A A A A 1.5 ---1R5 C B 2.0 ---2R0 C B A A --------------------------------------------- 3.0 ---3R0 B B A A 4.0 ---4R0 C B 5.0 ---5R0 B A A B 10.0 ---10R B A A A 15.0 ---15R A B A A --------------------------------------------- 20 ---20R B A 25 ---25R B B B A 30 ---30R C C 40 ---40R C B 50 ---50R B B B A --------------------------------------------- 75 ---75R B C B A 100 ---100 B B B A 150 ---150 B B A A 200 ---200 C C B B 250 ---250 B B A B --------------------------------------------- 300 ---300 A C 400 ---400 C C 500 ---500 B C B A 750 ---750 C C A B 1,000 ---1K0 C B A B --------------------------------------------- 1,500 ---1K5 B C C A 2,000 ---2K0 B B C C 2,500 ---2K5 B B 3,000 ---3K0 C A B C 3,500 ---3K5 C C --------------------------------------------- 4,000 ---4K0 B B 4,500 ---4K5 C C 5,000 ---5K0 B B B B 6,000 ---6K0 C C 10,000 ---10K B C A B --------------------------------------------- Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: A question on tapers
MZT.Groups
So, a drill chuck arbor is needed, MT2 for the tailstock and the same Andy, go to < > then select "Technical Support" on the menu on the left. on the bottom of the following page there's a link to Technical Information: Download (pdf) HTH Marcello |
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Re: Advice Sought for New User
Hi again Nicipi (is that your preferred handle?),
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It's probably within the capabilities of these machines. More readily so at just 1" length. You'll want a reasonably rigid toolpost so I suggest you look at the lapping job that people do to these Asian machines to improve that area. I'd certainly use a mandrel as Mike suggested. Depending on your tolerances and surface finish needs you may need to use a reamer but that seems tedious for 100 items. They aren't cheap either but at least it's not a 1-off. OTOH, you may be happy with just drilled and bored. At that length you may be able to avoid needing the tailstock and centres. You're inside the usual 3 diameters rule of thumb BUT you're going pretty thin walled and can't afford too much flex. You'll soon figure out if the extra messing about with the T/S is worth it. Something to note. 3-jaw chucks are not the most precise. Their design is necessarily a compromise. Re-read Mike's suggested steps and you will notice that the job is not removed from the chuck from beginning to end. This negates the innacuracies of a 3-jaw. Your job will be created true to spindle axis and remain that way - unless you're silly enough to remove it and subsequently try to re-chuck it. You won't get it back to the same axis again. The alternative is to use a 4-jaw chuck and set up with a dial gauge. For your application I'd try to stay with the 3-jaw. It's so much simpler to set up. I'm just making sure you're aware of some of the hidden finnesse in Mike's method. With planning, you should be able to nut out a 3-jaw method along the lines Mike suggested. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nicipi" <nicipi@...> wrote:
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A question on tapers
andyf1108
Dear Group,
I've found a ?" drill chuck which I'd like to use in my MT2 tailstock. The chuck has a female MT2 taper. I have tried it with a centre, which goes in about ?" and is a nice snug fit, as it should be. So, a drill chuck arbor is needed, MT2 for the tailstock and the same (but shorter) to fit into the chuck. No suppliers seem to list an arbor like that, but they do list MT2/B16 arbors. I've a vague idea that a B16 taper is the same as the narrow end of a No. 2 Morse taper. Is this right? I can't find specifications for "B series" tapers anywhere. Thanks in advance for any information. Andy |
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Re: Advice Sought for New User
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "nicipi" <nicipi@...> wrote:
part that is essentially a tube (aluminum alloy 6061) that has an outsidewant to be able to flare the end when I'm finished, so my first questionis, by milling the aluminum on a mini-lathe, will that ruin the temperof the alloy such that it can't be flared afterward? My secondquestion is this: I also want to start from a stock of outside diameter of0.625 inches, reason being that I want one end (not to be flared) to beleft with a "bead" of a diameter 0.625 inches. Can these lathes do thiskind of thing, that is, make tube that one would get as if you had amachine that form an "outward rolled end"?Hi, I think the only way of doing this is to first make a steel mandrel of diameter slightly less than the id of the tube. The mandrel should be made with a flange at one end and it should be accurately centre drilled at the flanged end. The mandrel should be longer than the tube you want to make. Once this is made then mount the the 0.625 bar in the 3 jaw chuck. If it is long (more than 3 times the diameter) you will need to used a fixed steady at the far end. Now centre drill and then drill to the required internal diameter. Remove the steady and insert the mandrel. Support the mandrel with a live centre in the tailstock. Now you can turn down the OD to the required diameter taking light cuts as the wall thickness decreases. Using a mandrel in this way ensures that the tube will be well supported during machining. With regard to the temper of the alloy this should not change during the machining operation but the alloy may work harden making flaring difficult. Tyhe easiest way round this, if it is a problem, is to anneal the tube after machining. To do this just smear the tube with soap and heat it gently with a blow torch until the soap blackens. Then qunch in water. The material should be very soft after the treatment and flaring should be easy. Kind regards Mike Kingsley, UK |
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Re: Advice Sought for New User
Yes, this is essentially a thin wall tube. But I am after 1 inch
lengths in the end. And I need many - like 100. The dimensions are very important, which is why I'm having trouble finding the tubing that I need (McmasterCar, etc.) So my take from your concern is the 0.016 inch is not within the precision of a mini-lathe, or is not a safe operation? Does having a short length like 1 inch seem more reasonable to achieve this objective? |
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Re: Looking for Enco promo code
Druid Noibn
Hi,
This should do it. Hi Metalworking Professional, In April get Free UPS Shipping* on your Enco order of $50 or more! Just mention promo code WBARN7 when you order by phone at 800-USE-ENCO, or enter it in the promo code box on the shopping cart page when you shop online at use-enco.com. AND, if you need to order now... Plus, we're offering Free UPS Shipping* on your Enco order of $50 or more! Just mention promo code WBNRM7 when you order by phone at 800-USE-ENCO, or enter it in the promo code box on the shopping cart page when you shop online at use-enco.com. Hurry, this offer expires, Saturday, March 31, 2007. Take care, DBN oneacmename <daniel@...> wrote: I just missed the last free shipping promo code by 2 hours :( Anyone have one that is valid? --------------------------------- Be a PS3 game guru. Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games. |
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