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Hello.
Took me about 2 hours!!
Good exercise?
Removed the tang and about 5mm of main body.
Paul

It only took me about 2mins to cut of the tang. I used a thin 41/2"
metal cutting disc that I bought from machine mart. Lots of sparks
but it cut it easily.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wireless_paul" <paul@...>
wrote:

Hi All.
Have just used a hacksaw for shortening an Arbor. Held it in the

vice

using the Tang then used six junior hacksaw blades and a lot of
effort!. Used a junior hacksaw as I had plenty of them in stock and
they are cheaper than using a 12" blade. Must buy myself a powered
Hacksaw, the type that takes a normal blade. Finished of on a
grinding wheel. Looks OK.
Paul

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@>

wrote:

Hi John,

Some have used a Dremel. I used an angle grinder and cleaned up

on the

bench grinder. Yes, it's hard. I initially tried a hacksaw but

blunted

it rather quickly. Get the length right. Cut it too short and

you'll

have problems ejecting the arbor.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@> wrote:

Hi All,

I want to remove the tang from the morse taper that holds my

drill

chuck in the tail stock. I assume it is hard steel. I have a

hacksaw ,

metal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I could buy a

metal

cutting blade for.

An suggestions as the best method ?

John

Yes, John, you have. But in a good way. It will save me a 2nd order
later. Thanks to others for your input.

I've added:

2644 Clamps for the faceplate
1222 Chuck studs & nuts
1655 Oil fittings
1773 Spare dial springs
2633 Tailstock clamp spring (is this needed on the 8x12?)
2743 Thread gauge
1551 Cutoff tool holder
1929 Cutoff blade (should I order 2?)
1240 Center Finder
1730 Sissor Knurler

I guess I'm holding off on the steady rest & follower rests.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Apart from obvious items I now have #2644 clamps for the faceplate,
#1222 chuck studs & nuts, #1655 oil fittings for the leadscrew (my
Sieg doesn't come with those), #1773 spare dial springs, #2633
spring to make the tailstock clamp stay put, some pitch gauges and

a

protractor for setting the compound.

Have I padded your order up yet? <G>

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

. . .
I'm putting together what I want to order for accessories and

other

bits. I'm currently looking at:

(LMS ____) 1 Sync Tooth belt (550m)
(LMS ____) 1 V belt (0-720)

(LMS ____) Steady Rest
(LMS 1198) Follower Rest
(LMS ____) Face Plate
(LMS 2346) 5" 4-jaw chuck
(LMS 2925) Dial Ind. Test Ind., Mag. base
(LMS ____) Knurling Tool
(LMS 1189) Live Center
(LMS 1246) Boring Bar Set
(LMS 1261) Accessory set
(LMS ____) Cut off tool (parting tool)

Do I need extras:
Extra Center Drills (LMS 1230)
Turning Tool Set (LMS 2412)

Any suggestions or missing LMS part #s would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Rance

Mine is marked L - O - R

I sort of figured that to mean Left, Off, Right. I dunno? Been wrong
before.

Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "David" <dhnoyes@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "troyscon" troyscon@ wrote:

.....the cross slide dial on your lathe will be wrong. It
will say.002 when it is actually .001......

Well that confirms a mystery for me! The other thing that puzzled me
was that the "Forward" and "Reverse" label on the power switch is
backwards. I sort of *thought* the tool cutting edge was supposed to

be

up where it could be seen. :-)

Another thing: My tail stock chuck will not eject. It's too short. I
note others are cutting them shorter. Hmmmmm?
I just stick a wrench between the chuck and the tail stock frame as a
wedge and eject it that way. David

Anyone know of any coupons currently aplicable for LMS?

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "troyscon" <troyscon@...> wrote:

.....the cross slide dial on your lathe will be wrong. It
will say.002 when it is actually .001......

Well that confirms a mystery for me! The other thing that puzzled me
was that the "Forward" and "Reverse" label on the power switch is
backwards. I sort of *thought* the tool cutting edge was supposed to be
up where it could be seen. :-)

Another thing: My tail stock chuck will not eject. It's too short. I
note others are cutting them shorter. Hmmmmm?
I just stick a wrench between the chuck and the tail stock frame as a
wedge and eject it that way. David

Hi All.
Have just used a hacksaw for shortening an Arbor. Held it in the vice
using the Tang then used six junior hacksaw blades and a lot of
effort!. Used a junior hacksaw as I had plenty of them in stock and
they are cheaper than using a 12" blade. Must buy myself a powered
Hacksaw, the type that takes a normal blade. Finished of on a
grinding wheel. Looks OK.
Paul

by the way broked centre drills can be converted into nice flat bottom drills by grinding the tip square and putting a bit of relief on the citting edges

Gerry
Leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Basic problem?
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:19:40 -0000

Hi Ken,

Someone (possibly on this forum) had a neat idea after breaking the
tip of a centre drill. They re-ground the thicker remaining stub to
gouge AROUND the broke small tip. This allowed access to get hold of
the broken piece to reverse it out.

Is that viable in this case? Maybe use the stub of an old (broken)
drill bit. Needs to be stumpy and solid. Butcher's technique but may
save a casting.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "machinest80"
<machinest80@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in

a

steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a must, this kind

of

metal welds to the drill bit quick.

_________________________________________________________________
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Vicki Ford has a piece on doing this (with photo) on her website. Don't know the link straight off but it is in the links section of www.mini-lathe.com along with some other neat stuff.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Basic problem?
Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 10:19:40 -0000

Hi Ken,

Someone (possibly on this forum) had a neat idea after breaking the
tip of a centre drill. They re-ground the thicker remaining stub to
gouge AROUND the broke small tip. This allowed access to get hold of
the broken piece to reverse it out.

Is that viable in this case? Maybe use the stub of an old (broken)
drill bit. Needs to be stumpy and solid. Butcher's technique but may
save a casting.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "machinest80"
<machinest80@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in

a

steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a must, this kind

of

metal welds to the drill bit quick.

_________________________________________________________________
MSN Hotmail is evolving - check out the new Windows Live Mail.

Hi Ken,

Someone (possibly on this forum) had a neat idea after breaking the
tip of a centre drill. They re-ground the thicker remaining stub to
gouge AROUND the broke small tip. This allowed access to get hold of
the broken piece to reverse it out.

Is that viable in this case? Maybe use the stub of an old (broken)
drill bit. Needs to be stumpy and solid. Butcher's technique but may
save a casting.

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "machinest80"
<machinest80@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in

a

steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a must, this kind

of

metal welds to the drill bit quick.

Hi John,

Some have used a Dremel. I used an angle grinder and cleaned up on the
bench grinder. Yes, it's hard. I initially tried a hacksaw but blunted
it rather quickly. Get the length right. Cut it too short and you'll
have problems ejecting the arbor.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jcmackastro" <jm@...> wrote:

Hi All,

I want to remove the tang from the morse taper that holds my drill
chuck in the tail stock. I assume it is hard steel. I have a

hacksaw ,

metal cutting band saw and an angle grinder that I could buy a metal
cutting blade for.

An suggestions as the best method ?

John

Use Alum to etch them out.


--- machinest80 <machinest80@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken
Appleby"
<captkenn@...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped

me! While drilling
on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two

separate holes in a

steam engine alluminium casting. They have both

broken off flush so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a

lot of space

around them. I have thought of over-drilling the

whole lot out (if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it

flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another

way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a
must, this kind of
metal welds to the drill bit quick.

____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss an email again!
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Hi Rance,

After I bought my 7x I placed and order on LMS for accessories.
Being in Oz I tried to include all I could think of to minimise
freight. Nope. I missed things. Just taken delivery of another load.

Apart from obvious items I now have #2644 clamps for the faceplate,
#1222 chuck studs & nuts, #1655 oil fittings for the leadscrew (my
Sieg doesn't come with those), #1773 spare dial springs, #2633
spring to make the tailstock clamp stay put, some pitch gauges and a
protractor for setting the compound.

Have I padded your order up yet? <G>

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Well, I OFFICIALLY went down to HF today and ordered my 8x12.

Prices

in the mags are now $529, and in-store prices show $549. Well, I

had

made previous arrangements to use the 30% off coupon so even

though

it expired on Monday I was able to use it today. TTL out the door,

it

cost $380.09. I think I'm gonna be happy with it. I did NOT get

the

extended warranty, but I DO have a great big grin on my face. :D

I'm putting together what I want to order for accessories and

other

bits. I'm currently looking at:

(LMS ____) 1 Sync Tooth belt (550m)
(LMS ____) 1 V belt (0-720)

(LMS ____) Steady Rest
(LMS 1198) Follower Rest
(LMS ____) Face Plate
(LMS 2346) 5" 4-jaw chuck
(LMS 2925) Dial Ind. Test Ind., Mag. base
(LMS ____) Knurling Tool
(LMS 1189) Live Center
(LMS 1246) Boring Bar Set
(LMS 1261) Accessory set
(LMS ____) Cut off tool (parting tool)

Do I need extras:
Extra Center Drills (LMS 1230)
Turning Tool Set (LMS 2412)

Any suggestions or missing LMS part #s would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Rance

Hi,

Well, the first question to ask is what do you plan on doing with it, e.g., size of stock to be turned? Max diameter? Max length? Turning gun barrels or pen casings?

Take care,
DBN


machinest80 <machinest80@...> wrote:
Hi,
I am thinking of getting a mini lath and wonder which is the best for
the money, I can't spend a lot but don't mind paying for value. I
would like to get a good one. I have been working in a machine shop
for 40 years and know a little about the work..
thanks






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I have used the thin cutoff disks in a Dremel tool. Cuts hardened
tangs and leaves a fine finish. Soak your disks in atf, they last longer.

I have the cheap er32 chuck and collet set. The few sizes I have used
are under .0005 run out. I think I paid about $50 (e-bay) for chuck
and eleven collets. It's not the machine or tooling that is lacking,
it's my talents.

.

Aaron - Thanks for the vote of confidence. I put an Enco order in last
night for ten 3/16" blanks and a few different carbide bits just in case.
Ed

Don't sell your self short on grinding a tool - it's actually pretty easy to get a decent tool. The angles don't need to be exact. The most important part is to get a nice clean edge on the tool - that's what the sandpaper and flat are for. For production work, yes you want a macgine ground tool for repeatability, but if your turning the handles you can feel how the tool cuts and when it needs sharpening.

Once you grind a few tools, you'll see what works and what doesn't. You don't loose anything because you can just grind the tool down to reconfigure it - I have a few that are only 1-1/2" long.

Aaron

Interesting, a 2002 msg has resurfaced!

For something that small, the most reliable way to get the broken
drills out is chemically. Aluminum is pretty much non-reactive to
acids, steel is reactive. Thus, the classic approach of dissolving
the broken tool out with a strong, hot alum solution. Swimming
pool/Spa & garden supply places sell alum for lowering pH.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "machinest80" <machinest80@...>
wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Capt Ken Appleby"
<captkenn@> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Hi,
When drilling aluminium a good cutting fluid is a must, this kind

of

metal welds to the drill bit quick.

Actually, you can also turn wood with regular metal lathe tooling,
handy for making quick fixtures.

If you've got access to a decent library, look for anything by
DeCristoforo & see if they have any of the Fine Woodworking books
about turning. Fine Woodworking (Taunton Press) has a web site, I
don't know how much (if any) of the stuff is free.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

Those may work, looks like "lathe" was put in the description to
catch search engines - they look like carving chisels more than

lathe

chisels. Then again, for turning on a small lathe, you can get

away

with using almost anything that's a usable shape.

I wondered about that. I *assumed* that the difference in the

handles

had to do with the small lathe, keyword *assumed* :-).

Well, if they don't work out, I learned something.

Some nice stuff there, bookmarked the chisels just in case the ones

I

got don't work out.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.