开云体育

Hi,
I'm a new comer to this group.
My major turning jobs were in the RC aircraft modeling as well as in the
electronics mechanical side. I'm a retired hobbyist, and none of my
activities is aimed for profit making.
So far I've been using my DB200 Unimat lathe, which is absolutely not an
accurate machine, not mentioning its age (I bought it in the early 60s).

I would like to have your opinion regarding the suitability of a Chinese
7x12 mini lathe as a replacement to the Unimat.

Thanks for your cooperation.
Itamar Nissany

Thanks - Great Link to Varmint Al's, that'll get me started. I'll get
an order in to Enco too, they're pretty quick - I'm sure I'll have the
tools before the lathe arrives.

Anyone in the Northern VA area know where I can pick up some bar and
round stock? I'd like to avoid shipping on raw metal.

Just because you have a small lathe doesn't mean you shouldn't use
big tools. Big tools give you more leverage. See if you can talk to a
local woodturner (in person) and get their opinion on what tools you
should try and "how" to use them.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@> wrote:

Those may work, looks like "lathe" was put in the description to
catch search engines - they look like carving chisels more than

lathe

chisels. Then again, for turning on a small lathe, you can get

away

with using almost anything that's a usable shape.

I wondered about that. I *assumed* that the difference in the

handles

had to do with the small lathe, keyword *assumed* :-).

Well, if they don't work out, I learned something.

Some nice stuff there, bookmarked the chisels just in case the ones

I

got don't work out.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

Not certain... This (
) is
the exact set that I bought when I bought my lathe. Like I said, the results
on aluminum were lousy. My assumption of the problem is two things... By all
accounts, aluminum cuts better with HSS. In addition, Aluminum cutters
should have a top rake, which those bits don't have. I'm not saying that the
carbide bits don't have their place, but considering how expensive they are,
and the poor results, I would certainly avoid them. Grinding HSS bits is
easy enough, & the grinder is cheap enough that it seems well worth
learning.

From my experience, HF is VERY wishy-washy. It depends on who you
talk to, which store, etc. Aparently this store started a Special
Order program about a week and a half ago. They didn't even bat an
eye when I gave them the coupon from the web.

I know what you mean about the 8x vs. 7x for parts. That was one of
the tradeoffs when I decided on this machine. I knew it going in.
Thanks for the tip when ordering from LMS.


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "troyscon" <troyscon@...> wrote:

How in the world were you able to not only order an 8x12 from a

HF

store, but use the 30% off coupon? I would have killed to have been
able to get an X3 from a local HF retail store with a 30% off

deal! I

thought 8x12's and other non-store items (like the X3) could never

be

bought through a store.
For a lot of 8x12 parts go to Lathemaster and call Bob,

especially

a QCTP which you will want FOR SURE and only from Lathemaster as the
one from LMS is too small and needs modified to fit the 8x12. Be
careful about ordering anything from LMS for this lathe without
talking to Chris or getting more info as this lathe doesn't have

alot

of available parts(chucks etc) that will fit without mods and
adapters. Also,the cross slide dial on your lathe will be wrong. It
will say.002 when it is actually .001 (check for picts of the
Lathemaster 8x14 on the net and you'll see).

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

Those may work, looks like "lathe" was put in the description to
catch search engines - they look like carving chisels more than lathe
chisels. Then again, for turning on a small lathe, you can get away
with using almost anything that's a usable shape.

I wondered about that. I *assumed* that the difference in the handles
had to do with the small lathe, keyword *assumed* :-).

Well, if they don't work out, I learned something.

Some nice stuff there, bookmarked the chisels just in case the ones I
got don't work out.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

ARC eurotrade are selling the little X1L mill with long bed extensions
in both directions for ?201+postage. Check out:



Stu G

Those may work, looks like "lathe" was put in the description to
catch search engines - they look like carving chisels more than lathe
chisels. Then again, for turning on a small lathe, you can get away
with using almost anything that's a usable shape.



Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

Hi Rance,

Thanks for the response!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

Vikki,

Its good to hear from the ladies here. After looking at the pic

of

what you bought, I can't see it being very sturdy as designed. I
think I would go with something like what Barry built. The tool

post

is best supported from below, not from the side.

As I have it set up now, it seems pretty sturdy, but the mount is
heavy and it is indeed hanging all off one side. Once we get moved
I'll be able to set up more of a work area and be able to build up
something like Barry did. Here in the apartment I spend more time
getting stuff out and putting stuff away than actually doing things

in

the limited space available.

As for height, you
want the TIP of your gouge or skew where it meets the wood to be

on

center, this puts the tool rest below center. Remember your tool

will

be held at an angle (handle drooping 10-20 degrees below

horizontal).

Hope this helps. I plan on using my lathe for wood initially so

I'll

be able to give you more feedback in a few weeks.

I do indeed have much to learn, apparently I misunderstand. What I
found so far was the recommendation to do scraping first to get used
to the tools which I understood to be done with the rest on center.

It was a newbie safety recommendation. I think I need to get some
videos or books on wood turning, just because I am not planning on
doing a lot of it is no reason to fake it all the way <blush> :-).

With the other chisels it did say to use the built in slope on the
rest and extend to the center.

My chisels should be here Tuesday and I can get on with it! Picking
the right chisels was a rather daunting job but I finally picked

this set:

Tool-
Set_W0QQitemZ280094649015QQcategoryZ57125QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZ
ViewItem

All the others I found looked to be way too long for the Mini-

Lathe.

Hope I did good as those sure seemed to be very reasonable. Worst
case they are an educational expense :-).

Will MUCH appreciate any comments, experiences or pix. I sorta
stagger around in the dark here until I either get some good books

or

find a videos I can learn from, so far I have been lucky :).

What got me interested in all this was a girlfriend who had a 7x10

(?)

that she made pens on (quite nice ones too!). Later I ran into a
fellow Ham Radio Operator who had his own mom-n-pop machine shop

and I

was flat hooked! This just gets to be more fun as time goes on and
being able to make useful stuff is just incredible!!!

Long day here already, much going on, hope this makes some sense.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

I like Varmint Al's "Work Horse" bit:



Regards,
Mark
markrages@gmail

--
Most of the time,
for most of the world,
no matter how hard people work at it,
nothing of any significance happens.
-- Weinberg's Law

www.use-enco.com - 383-5320
Those bits go on sale a lot for about 0.69 each in quantity 10.

Get ten bits, a bench grinder (6" is fine), a wheel dresser, 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and a polished granite/marble tile or plate glass.

Aaron

I would suggest getting a few carbide bits too so you can try out the
lathe right away. But its certainly ok to buy some HSS blanks too.
Take it step by step and don't try to learn everything at once. My
first lathe is on order too and I picked up a set of carbide bits and
5 hss blanks. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks. They're currently on sale for 0.84. I got everything else. I'm
a little hesitant starting out grinding my own, but if that's the best
way to go, that's what I'll do. Any suggested links for grinding?
Ed

www.use-enco.com - 383-5320
Those bits go on sale a lot for about 0.69 each in quantity 10.

Get ten bits, a bench grinder (6" is fine), a wheel dresser, 600

grit wet/dry sandpaper, and a polished granite/marble tile or plate
glass.

Aaron

Homier lathes have been out of stock for a few weeks. Their web site
said expected on 3/14, and on the 14th they updated the expected date
to 3/20. I tried to order one over the phone, but she said her
computer won't let her take an order unless it's in stock. I was
pleasantly surprised today to see their site updated to "Supplies
Limited" and quickly ordered one.

I also ordered their Accessory Kit, but I got it off of their eBay
store where it's on sale for 10% off ($89.99).

I'm going to have to make sure I have some cutting bits when it
arrives. Recommendations?

A lot of people building their own computer do much the same and think
they need better CPU cooling if the CPU temp gets up to 120F.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Michael Taglieri
<miket--nyc@...> wrote:

On Sat, 17 Mar 2007 01:25:41 -0000 "houe2005" <houe2005@...>
writes:

Remember what might seem hot to us is just getting warmed up for

electronics.

People make the same mistake with oil temperatures. I have a Norton
motorcycle whose dry-sump engine holds the engine oil in a separate

tank.

Fellow owners on Internet groups are always fitting oil coolers on

these

bikes because they feel the oil tank and "it feels so hot." But

it's not

hot by engine standards -- 200? or so is normal operating

temperature for

oil a warmed-up engine.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

I can't speak from experience, my 8x12 is on order too, but there are
different grades of bits for different metals. C5/C6 is for ferrous
metals and C2 for nonferrous metals. Were you using the appropriate
grade? That being said most people do indicate that HSS does seem to
work better for softer metals and finishing cuts. I bought a C5
carbide set and some HSS blanks. I haven't done much work on a lathe
before so I don't know much about this. I'll mainly be working with
1018 steel and occasionally with some aluminum (probably 6061). What
do you think?

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Mike Payson" <mike@...> wrote:

I'm convinced that the HF extended warranty is an even bigger

rip-off then

most of them, at least where the lathes & mills are concerned. If

the item

you purchased was less then $500 (not certain, but I assume that is

purchase

price, not normal price) then the warranty is good for one -replacement
only-. So if something goes wrong, they will replace the entire

unit, one

time only. Considering the hassle with hauling the entire unit in to the
store, and considering that most repairs are likely something that

you can

fairly easily do yourself (or pay Uncle Rabid $25 to do for you in

the case

of electrical repairs), and considering that most people will end up

making

some modifications to their lathe that will at best be lost and at worst
void the warranty, it seems like it's not a very good investment.

I believe you need a tool holder for the parting tool, something

like #1551,

though I could be wrong (I've only had my lathe a week, & just got

my LMS

"goodie box" in the mail today).

One thing that I can already suggest is that you avoid the carbide

bits & go

with HSS. You'll need to buy a grinder (~$30), but you'll get far better
results, especially if you are working with Aluminum. I bought the
equivalent of 2412 from HF when I got my lathe, and the results I

got were

lousy. When I was able to locate some lathe blanks from a local tool
supplier & grind my own, I immediately saw a -huge- improvement in the
results from the very first tool I'd ever ground. I'm sure that as my
grinding skills improve, the results will get even better. Not sure

that the

results would be as pronounced on steel or not, but they don't work

well for

aluminum at all (although, to be fair, I'm sure that someone who had

used a

lathe before could get at least a bit better results then I did). If you
need to learn how to grind the bits, the Jose Rodriguez video on the

subject

(LMS 2396) is good (though his other videos are even better).

Mike

On 3/17/07, rancerupp <rupps@...> wrote:

Well, I OFFICIALLY went down to HF today and ordered my 8x12. Prices
in the mags are now $529, and in-store prices show $549. Well, I had
made previous arrangements to use the 30% off coupon so even though
it expired on Monday I was able to use it today. TTL out the door, it
cost $380.09. I think I'm gonna be happy with it. I did NOT get the
extended warranty, but I DO have a great big grin on my face. :D

I'm putting together what I want to order for accessories and other
bits. I'm currently looking at:

(LMS ____) 1 Sync Tooth belt (550m)
(LMS ____) 1 V belt (0-720)

(LMS ____) Steady Rest
(LMS 1198) Follower Rest
(LMS ____) Face Plate
(LMS 2346) 5" 4-jaw chuck
(LMS 2925) Dial Ind. Test Ind., Mag. base
(LMS ____) Knurling Tool
(LMS 1189) Live Center
(LMS 1246) Boring Bar Set
(LMS 1261) Accessory set
(LMS ____) Cut off tool (parting tool)

Do I need extras:
Extra Center Drills (LMS 1230)
Turning Tool Set (LMS 2412)

Any suggestions or missing LMS part #s would be appreciated. Thanks.

Rance





Be sure to check out for small

mills and

lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Hi Rance,

Thanks for the response!

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Vikki,

Its good to hear from the ladies here. After looking at the pic of
what you bought, I can't see it being very sturdy as designed. I
think I would go with something like what Barry built. The tool post
is best supported from below, not from the side.

As I have it set up now, it seems pretty sturdy, but the mount is
heavy and it is indeed hanging all off one side. Once we get moved
I'll be able to set up more of a work area and be able to build up
something like Barry did. Here in the apartment I spend more time
getting stuff out and putting stuff away than actually doing things in
the limited space available.

As for height, you
want the TIP of your gouge or skew where it meets the wood to be on
center, this puts the tool rest below center. Remember your tool will
be held at an angle (handle drooping 10-20 degrees below horizontal).
Hope this helps. I plan on using my lathe for wood initially so I'll
be able to give you more feedback in a few weeks.

I do indeed have much to learn, apparently I misunderstand. What I
found so far was the recommendation to do scraping first to get used
to the tools which I understood to be done with the rest on center.

It was a newbie safety recommendation. I think I need to get some
videos or books on wood turning, just because I am not planning on
doing a lot of it is no reason to fake it all the way <blush> :-).

With the other chisels it did say to use the built in slope on the
rest and extend to the center.

My chisels should be here Tuesday and I can get on with it! Picking
the right chisels was a rather daunting job but I finally picked this set:



All the others I found looked to be way too long for the Mini-Lathe.
Hope I did good as those sure seemed to be very reasonable. Worst
case they are an educational expense :-).

Will MUCH appreciate any comments, experiences or pix. I sorta
stagger around in the dark here until I either get some good books or
find a videos I can learn from, so far I have been lucky :).

What got me interested in all this was a girlfriend who had a 7x10(?)
that she made pens on (quite nice ones too!). Later I ran into a
fellow Ham Radio Operator who had his own mom-n-pop machine shop and I
was flat hooked! This just gets to be more fun as time goes on and
being able to make useful stuff is just incredible!!!

Long day here already, much going on, hope this makes some sense.

Thanks & take care, Vikki.

I'm convinced that the HF extended warranty is an even bigger rip-off then
most of them, at least where the lathes & mills are concerned. If the item
you purchased was less then $500 (not certain, but I assume that is purchase
price, not normal price) then the warranty is good for one -replacement
only-. So if something goes wrong, they will replace the entire unit, one
time only. Considering the hassle with hauling the entire unit in to the
store, and considering that most repairs are likely something that you can
fairly easily do yourself (or pay Uncle Rabid $25 to do for you in the case
of electrical repairs), and considering that most people will end up making
some modifications to their lathe that will at best be lost and at worst
void the warranty, it seems like it's not a very good investment.

I believe you need a tool holder for the parting tool, something like #1551,
though I could be wrong (I've only had my lathe a week, & just got my LMS
"goodie box" in the mail today).

One thing that I can already suggest is that you avoid the carbide bits & go
with HSS. You'll need to buy a grinder (~$30), but you'll get far better
results, especially if you are working with Aluminum. I bought the
equivalent of 2412 from HF when I got my lathe, and the results I got were
lousy. When I was able to locate some lathe blanks from a local tool
supplier & grind my own, I immediately saw a -huge- improvement in the
results from the very first tool I'd ever ground. I'm sure that as my
grinding skills improve, the results will get even better. Not sure that the
results would be as pronounced on steel or not, but they don't work well for
aluminum at all (although, to be fair, I'm sure that someone who had used a
lathe before could get at least a bit better results then I did). If you
need to learn how to grind the bits, the Jose Rodriguez video on the subject
(LMS 2396) is good (though his other videos are even better).

Mike

How in the world were you able to not only order an 8x12 from a HF
store, but use the 30% off coupon? I would have killed to have been
able to get an X3 from a local HF retail store with a 30% off deal! I
thought 8x12's and other non-store items (like the X3) could never be
bought through a store.
For a lot of 8x12 parts go to Lathemaster and call Bob, especially
a QCTP which you will want FOR SURE and only from Lathemaster as the
one from LMS is too small and needs modified to fit the 8x12. Be
careful about ordering anything from LMS for this lathe without
talking to Chris or getting more info as this lathe doesn't have alot
of available parts(chucks etc) that will fit without mods and
adapters. Also,the cross slide dial on your lathe will be wrong. It
will say.002 when it is actually .001 (check for picts of the
Lathemaster 8x14 on the net and you'll see).

Well, I OFFICIALLY went down to HF today and ordered my 8x12. Prices
in the mags are now $529, and in-store prices show $549. Well, I had
made previous arrangements to use the 30% off coupon so even though
it expired on Monday I was able to use it today. TTL out the door, it
cost $380.09. I think I'm gonna be happy with it. I did NOT get the
extended warranty, but I DO have a great big grin on my face. :D

I'm putting together what I want to order for accessories and other
bits. I'm currently looking at:

(LMS ____) 1 Sync Tooth belt (550m)
(LMS ____) 1 V belt (0-720)

(LMS ____) Steady Rest
(LMS 1198) Follower Rest
(LMS ____) Face Plate
(LMS 2346) 5" 4-jaw chuck
(LMS 2925) Dial Ind. Test Ind., Mag. base
(LMS ____) Knurling Tool
(LMS 1189) Live Center
(LMS 1246) Boring Bar Set
(LMS 1261) Accessory set
(LMS ____) Cut off tool (parting tool)

Do I need extras:
Extra Center Drills (LMS 1230)
Turning Tool Set (LMS 2412)

Any suggestions or missing LMS part #s would be appreciated. Thanks.

Rance

Vikki,

Its good to hear from the ladies here. After looking at the pic of
what you bought, I can't see it being very sturdy as designed. I
think I would go with something like what Barry built. The tool post
is best supported from below, not from the side. As for height, you
want the TIP of your gouge or skew where it meets the wood to be on
center, this puts the tool rest below center. Remember your tool will
be held at an angle (handle drooping 10-20 degrees below horizontal).
Hope this helps. I plan on using my lathe for wood initially so I'll
be able to give you more feedback in a few weeks.

Rance


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wrlabs" <wrlabs@...> wrote:

I ordered the wood turning tool rest kit from LMS (we'll avoid
mentioning the nightmare getting it from UPS):

ProductID=1685&category=

Granted, wood turning is new to me and I *am* fairly clueless, but

it

seems that the actual tool rest itself won't go up to more than

about

.425 below spindle center without the post wobbling. From all I

have

read so far, I want this on spindle center to do scraping before I

do

other things to learn and be less dangerous.



Not sure if I need to either shim up the toolpost or make up a
replacement pin for the tool rest itself to get near spindle center?

Also, anyone know what the thread on the center that comes with it

is?

Not planning on doing a lot of wood stuff with the lathe, but in the
process of making "simple syrup" I ended up with rock candy and

broke

the honey "spoon" and wanted to make a replacement myself :-).

Seemed

like an handy thing to have in case I do want to make anything out

of

wood.

Any thoughts appreciated!

Thanks & take care, Vikki.