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Date

Motor Temp Rise on the HF 8x12-14

druid_noibn
 

Hi All,

For those who might find it "interesting" ¨C I noticed the motor of
the HF 8x12-14 was a tad warm and thought a check was in order.

With a motor and ambient temp of 65F the lathe was turned on ¨C no
metal turning. The probe was located on the upper part of the motor
housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes ¨C temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes ¨C 49.7F;
46 minutes ¨C 58.1F;
63 minutes ¨C 63F ¨C shut-down motor
66 minutes ¨C 65.7F

I didn't run the motor unloaded yet.

So the motor runs hot - an auxiliary fan might be in order.

Take care,
DBN


Re: About cutting threads

 

On Mon, Feb 26, 2007 at 04:27:05AM -0000, born4something wrote:
Hi Larry,

Threading 101:

The idea of 29 degrees is half the thread angle (usually 60 deg)
less a smidge. People never seem to express it that way but once you
understand what's happening it's obvious - and equally obvious how
it needs to be modified for a 55 degree Whitworth thread, etc.
Thanks guys! This has been an excellent thread (ahem) for a beginner like
me. The only thing I can't see with this technique is how to accurately set
my cross-slide to 29degs.

Chris
--
Chris Eilbeck
MARS Flight Crew
UKRA #1108 Level 2 UYB
Tripoli UK Member #9527 LSMR


Re: Magnetic Problem

 

G'day John.
"They were notably heavy to lift." Perhaps you should have Weetbix for
breakfast!
You being in electronics may be able to get access to a hall effect
magnetic field sensor and measure the field if any. Either that or put
a sheet of paper over the area and dust it with iron filings.
Have you noted that ferrous chips stick to the ways? I see that this
could be a problem which ultimately will cause additional wear because
the fine chips would not wipe away.

Do we have to put in degausing coils?

One good turn deserves another.
Regards,
Ian


Basic thread cutting questions

 

Cutting my first 1/4 20 threads on a piece of poor quality 1/4 inch
rod produced a few questions.
1. With the normal B/C gear in place, it wasn't possible to put the
gear cover on because the BC gear was too large. Is leaving the gear
cover off during thread cutting a serious enough safety hazard that
one should go to the trouble of pressing out the bushing and key and
replacing the gear with a smaller one? If so, do most people buy an
extra bushing for this purpose?
2. I ground a 60 degree bit and left the tip pointed but wondered if
the tip of the bit have a slight radius on it?
3. With about an inch of the 1/4 rod extended out from the chuck, I
noticed that the rod would flex away from the bit somewhat though with
light cuts the treads were acceptable for most work. Should one go to
the trouble of using a dead center or should one use a live center
even though the bit must be extended about 3/4 inch from the tool
holder because of clearance issues?
4. Finally, given the time for setup etc., are there advantages to
using the lathe for this operation over a simple die.
Thanks for your help.


Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe

 

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "born4something" <ajs@...>
wrote:

Hi Chris,

Have you tried pulling a long face, telling them you were window
shopping earlier and just managed to put the shekels together? Not
untrue. Gotta be prepared to walk away. I have had sales guys call
me
back as I headed down the street. Depends on their sales structure
if
the sales guy has room to move. I know several franchise businesses
near me who will actually autorise sales well below cost if the
store
manager is struggling to make a weekly target and bad weather has
kept
customers away. I sometimes drive a hard bargain for the challenge
when it's not a one-man business struggling to eat.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Chris" <house582@> wrote:

Hello all just missed a sale on the 8x12 for 439. Does anyone
have a
listing # from an ad with a good price for model#44859. Now they
want
539 as of 3-1
Hey thanks that might work and am now working on the long face
before going to the store!!!!! Maybe


Re: Ammeter

Marty N
 

Jim RabidWolf

While you were out last weekend we had a discussion on insertion of a moving iron amp meter between the controller and motor and were wondering what your thoughts were on the topic as far as, can it be done without upsetting the apple cart in practical sense.

Marty


Re: Projest Lathe Site

Marty N
 

Updated site. Topic, a coherent lubrication section with alternatives and test results. NOT brand specific.

Marty


Re: 3-jaw chick out-of-true?

 

Thanks -will try...!

BW
RTJ

On 3/3/07 09:45, "born4something" <ajs@...> wrote:

Hi Richard,

Welcome to the club.

Don't start filing anything just yet! It's too hard to put all the
little filings back. Gotta be pretty sure that's what you need to do
before getting drastic.

Firstly, I assume you're talking the regular (Sieg style) Chinese
7x12 here? If so, the tailstock has an MT2 taper. So how did you
chuck the centre? It won't sit well in any parallel jawed chuck.
What's the wobble look like if you stick something known to be
cylindrical in there? Say a short water pipe offcut - or a bit of
round bar when your metal arrives.

Even a Philips head screw driver for now. At least they are usually
pretty parallel down to the tip - not like the straight screwdrivers
that have a forged bulge.

Also, remove the chuck (3 awkward nuts at the back of the chuck) and
check all is clean in the recess where the chuck sits on the flange.
I'll bet the flange runs true. Does the chuck face?

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Stevens
<rtjstevens@...> wrote:

Hi, ignorant newbie here; just bought a new 7x12 lathe but as yet
tooling
and metal not arrived -but my dial test indicator has...

I decided to place the Centre from the tailstock into the
headstock chuck
and test. It's a long way out and is visible by the naked eye
alone -
perhaps by 0.5 -10.8mm. Yes I've taken the centre out and
repositioned it
-but still the same.
What's the best advice? (All I could think was to take out the
(numbered)
chuck jaws/teeth and to gently file down as appropriate)

Many thanks,

Richard




Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Way Lube, last post

Michael Taglieri
 

Chain-bar oil is also available in Home Depot, etc. (for chain saws). I
bought some for my motorcycle chain and may give it a try on the ways.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"


On Fri, 2 Mar 2007 16:54:58 -0600 "Marty N" <martyn@...> writes:

I mentioned that I would, before weeks end, obtain and try some Way
Lube against the others I posted about.
John had several sooooo I tested several. ISO 68, 100 & 220 from two
vendors, Mobil Vectra series and Viking Sliderite.

Here's what I found out. The standard way oils have less tackifier
than chain bar oil, allot less but it's still there. It's not
stringy at all.

The chain bar oil, NAPA brand, is about 50 SUS units heavier and
while that seems small, in a 55 degree basement shop it's enough to
notice.

But the biggest difference is in stick-slip. I don't know what
exactly is in this stuff but the stick part is definitely less,
about 1/3 that of than any of the other lubricants I've tried, oil
or grease. Dynamic values are about the same as a heavy 20W or light
30W.

In descending order for ways I like Viking Sliderite 310, Mobil
Vectra #2, Napa chain bar, Mineral non-detergent 20W heavy, Mobil 1
15W50, {White Lithium Grease (Not on ways)}.

For Leads and Feeds, in descending order I like Chain Bar Oil, Mobil
Vectra #4 (ISO 220), Super-Lube synthetic PTFE, White Lithium
Grease. (Greases not on exposed threads though)

For the thrust faces and bushings and poly gears I like Moly filled
wheel bearing.

For unpainted non contact iron parts. Gun oil.

Opinion varies



Marty





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mills and lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Re: 3-jaw chick out-of-true?

 

Hi Richard you cant use the tailstock centre as it has an MT2 taper and will not centre properly in the chuck. In the absence of any decent proper round stock (drill rod or similar)a decent 1/2" or so drill bit using the shank would be enough to indicate off.

My lathe out of the box gave <0.01mm (<0.4thou") so theres something seriously wrong if you get 50-100x that!

If you still get those sort of readings It is just possible that the chuck is mismounted so remove it (protect the ways!) any try checking for any swarf or other debris and then remount and try again. Failing that remove the chuck and indicate off the spindle, it is just possible that the bearings are loose.

If it genuinely is that then don't mess with it send the chuck back.

Trying to file the jaws to suit is a no-no, the jaws are hardened so you would ruin your file ant you could not do it with any level of accuracy.

Gerry
Leeds UK

From: Richard Stevens <rtjstevens@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: "7x12minilathe@..." <7x12minilathe@...>
Subject: [7x12minilathe] 3-jaw chick out-of-true?
Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2007 08:55:55 +0000

Hi, ignorant newbie here; just bought a new 7x12 lathe but as yet tooling
and metal not arrived -but my dial test indicator has...

I decided to place the Centre from the tailstock into the headstock chuck
and test. It's a long way out and is visible by the naked eye alone -
perhaps by 0.5 -10.8mm. Yes I've taken the centre out and repositioned it
-but still the same.
What's the best advice? (All I could think was to take out the (numbered)
chuck jaws/teeth and to gently file down as appropriate)

Many thanks,

Richard

_________________________________________________________________
Match.com - Click Here To Find Singles In Your Area Today!


Re: 3-jaw chick out-of-true?

 

Hi Richard,

I'm no expert on the subject, but I would get more info from some
people either at these groups or some websites (i.e. mini-lathe.com
etc.) before you start filing on the jaws individually. If I
understand it correctly, most 3-jaw chucks will show some runout.
Not sure what is considered "acceptable" though. I've seen some
sites where a Dremel type rotary tool is mounted to the tool post to
lightly grind the jaws concentric. Lots of really knowledgable
people in this group and others that will help you out I'm sure.
Just some friendly advice. Good luck.

Frank


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Stevens
<rtjstevens@...> wrote:

Hi, ignorant newbie here; just bought a new 7x12 lathe but as yet
tooling
and metal not arrived -but my dial test indicator has...

I decided to place the Centre from the tailstock into the
headstock chuck
and test. It's a long way out and is visible by the naked eye
alone -
perhaps by 0.5 -10.8mm. Yes I've taken the centre out and
repositioned it
-but still the same.
What's the best advice? (All I could think was to take out the
(numbered)
chuck jaws/teeth and to gently file down as appropriate)

Many thanks,

Richard


Magnetic Problem

 

Hi all,

I've been using a magnetic base for my dial gauge. The base sits
neatly across the ways. Thinking about it, that runs the magnetic flux
lines down one way, across the spacer flanges in the bed casting and
back up the other way. It seems to have left the two ways looking like
the poles of a horseshoe magnet!

I just rested some machined steel parts down the end of my bed where
the t/s would normally sit. They were notably heavy to lift. Is this a
common problem? Perhaps I should restrict the magnetic base to one way
only but the bigger flat makes it beautifully stable.

John


Re: 3-jaw chick out-of-true?

 

Hi Richard,

Welcome to the club.

Don't start filing anything just yet! It's too hard to put all the
little filings back. Gotta be pretty sure that's what you need to do
before getting drastic.

Firstly, I assume you're talking the regular (Sieg style) Chinese
7x12 here? If so, the tailstock has an MT2 taper. So how did you
chuck the centre? It won't sit well in any parallel jawed chuck.
What's the wobble look like if you stick something known to be
cylindrical in there? Say a short water pipe offcut - or a bit of
round bar when your metal arrives.

Even a Philips head screw driver for now. At least they are usually
pretty parallel down to the tip - not like the straight screwdrivers
that have a forged bulge.

Also, remove the chuck (3 awkward nuts at the back of the chuck) and
check all is clean in the recess where the chuck sits on the flange.
I'll bet the flange runs true. Does the chuck face?

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Stevens
<rtjstevens@...> wrote:

Hi, ignorant newbie here; just bought a new 7x12 lathe but as yet
tooling
and metal not arrived -but my dial test indicator has...

I decided to place the Centre from the tailstock into the
headstock chuck
and test. It's a long way out and is visible by the naked eye
alone -
perhaps by 0.5 -10.8mm. Yes I've taken the centre out and
repositioned it
-but still the same.
What's the best advice? (All I could think was to take out the
(numbered)
chuck jaws/teeth and to gently file down as appropriate)

Many thanks,

Richard


3-jaw chick out-of-true?

 

Hi, ignorant newbie here; just bought a new 7x12 lathe but as yet tooling
and metal not arrived -but my dial test indicator has...

I decided to place the Centre from the tailstock into the headstock chuck
and test. It's a long way out and is visible by the naked eye alone -
perhaps by 0.5 -10.8mm. Yes I've taken the centre out and repositioned it
-but still the same.
What's the best advice? (All I could think was to take out the (numbered)
chuck jaws/teeth and to gently file down as appropriate)

Many thanks,

Richard


Way Lube, last post

Marty N
 

I mentioned that I would, before weeks end, obtain and try some Way Lube against the others I posted about.
John had several sooooo I tested several. ISO 68, 100 & 220 from two vendors, Mobil Vectra series and Viking Sliderite.

Here's what I found out. The standard way oils have less tackifier than chain bar oil, allot less but it's still there. It's not stringy at all.

The chain bar oil, NAPA brand, is about 50 SUS units heavier and while that seems small, in a 55 degree basement shop it's enough to notice.

But the biggest difference is in stick-slip. I don't know what exactly is in this stuff but the stick part is definitely less, about 1/3 that of than any of the other lubricants I've tried, oil or grease. Dynamic values are about the same as a heavy 20W or light 30W.

In descending order for ways I like Viking Sliderite 310, Mobil Vectra #2, Napa chain bar, Mineral non-detergent 20W heavy, Mobil 1 15W50, {White Lithium Grease (Not on ways)}.

For Leads and Feeds, in descending order I like Chain Bar Oil, Mobil Vectra #4 (ISO 220), Super-Lube synthetic PTFE, White Lithium Grease. (Greases not on exposed threads though)

For the thrust faces and bushings and poly gears I like Moly filled wheel bearing.

For unpainted non contact iron parts. Gun oil.

Opinion varies



Marty


Re: LED Lathe Light

 

I'm going to start looking like a salesman for surplus computers. In any case,
check this out (a 5-pack for $18.99):

<>

It's an 8 rather than a 9 LED though. Now, if you're really serious, they have 50 packs
for as low as $179.99.

John

----- Original Message -----
From: rancerupp
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 7:36 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] LED Lathe Light


HF currently has their 9 LED flashlight (93712-1VGA) on sale for $5.
They are normally $10. I got one weeks ago and wish I had 5 more. If
you are ordering from HF anyways, get one of these and make a flexible
mount for your lathe. They are bright and last an extremly loooooong
time on 3 AAA batteries.

Rance


Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe

 

The calipers go on sale fairly regularly. If you can't wait, you can also get them at
<>.
Shipping is almost $7, though, but if you get more than one (or find other stuff), you
may get the per-item shipping down to a tolerable level.

For the record, I have no affiliation with surplus computers aside from having spent
way too much money there over the years.

John

----- Original Message -----
From: rancerupp
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 6:55 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe


Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about 2 weeks away
from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Chris" <house582@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all just missed a sale on the 8x12 for 439. Does anyone have a
> listing # from an ad with a good price for model#44859. Now they want
> 539 as of 3-1


Re: LED Lathe Light

Jim RabidWolf
 

I'm buying a few, but at least a couple will have the led's pulled and
replaced with UV led's ...

Never know when CSI is gonna call <G>

Rabid
Uncle Rabid ( )
We Repair Electronic Speed Controllers
For Asian Mini Lathes and Mini Mills
"Just Crazy Enough To Get the Job Done"
(Join Rabid's Lathe/Mill Controller/Mod's List!)
(Also visit BarStockEngines - join us in building without Castings!)

----- Original Message -----
From: "rancerupp" <rupps@...>
To: <7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 8:36 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] LED Lathe Light


HF currently has their 9 LED flashlight (93712-1VGA) on sale for $5.
They are normally $10. I got one weeks ago and wish I had 5 more. If
you are ordering from HF anyways, get one of these and make a flexible
mount for your lathe. They are bright and last an extremly loooooong
time on 3 AAA batteries.

Rance





Be sure to check out for small mills and
lathes.
Yahoo! Groups Links


LED Lathe Light

 

HF currently has their 9 LED flashlight (93712-1VGA) on sale for $5.
They are normally $10. I got one weeks ago and wish I had 5 more. If
you are ordering from HF anyways, get one of these and make a flexible
mount for your lathe. They are bright and last an extremly loooooong
time on 3 AAA batteries.

Rance


Re: Harbor freight 8x12 lathe

 

Yeah, I could feel Chris' anguish. I just got stung on some
electrical gear I ordered late on Feb 28. I placed the order about
11PM on the wholesalers web site at the listed price. I received an
email confirmation with that listed price. Next day they processed
my order. Feb special had finished. Goods were debited to my card at
20% extra! We'll be discussing that early next week. Know how ya
feel!

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Chris,

You're not the only one that missed it. However I am about 2 weeks
away
from ordering. I missed the $16 dig. caliper too.

Rance (sittin & watching the prices)


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Chris" <house582@> wrote:

Hello all just missed a sale on the 8x12 for 439. Does anyone
have a
listing # from an ad with a good price for model#44859. Now they
want
539 as of 3-1