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So I plugged it in and it ran. On the face of it everything seemed fine. Then I hand wound the carriage and what a racket. Short story the half nut was catching on the thread. Also when the nut was

Don’t measure off of a dead center. The dead center might not be perfect. Measure off of the inside tapered surface of the spindle for your most accurate measurement. Michael - California, USA

Your comment inspired me to add that to my 'ToDo' list for my Vevor. :) I know that the open end of the spindle bore is almost perfect (<0.01 mm runout), but I don't think I have a way to reach very

The way we test the bearing's in the headstock on our South bend lathes is to put a solid bar through the spindle & put a indicator on the spindle & then you pull up on the rod & see what the

Pulling the bearings would be the most definitive way to tell but that's pretty extreme.? If they're not tapered roller bearings you then would have to replace the bearings. You can expose the front

A bit OFF tTOPIC But Here a utube on howto plexyglass https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5nP7MDf63Y jack 47 71 George- I do have some 1/8 Lexan but this plastic was easier to cut. I didn't see the point

George- I do have some 1/8 Lexan but this plastic was easier to cut. I didn't see the point of apron covers until the carriage on my Microlux jammed for a few seconds in the middle of a cut, due to

Makes no differance at all but that would drive me nuts not being able to see inside and what's going on. Sounds stupid since I cant see it anyway ! george

I too bought the VEVOR 7X14 on impulse and have problems. The one I am trying to get them to correct is the taper of the spindle. When I placed a dead center in it I have 0.0035" run-out which is

Right! I've had my Microlux 7x14 pretty much stripped to pieces and re-assembled (switched headstock bearings even though it wasn't needed) so when my Vevor showed up I had 'no fear' about taking it

I got the carriage/saddle shims worked out, and the way thickness issues fixed, so the saddle is now sliding smoothly. I made an apron cover for the gears. It keeps the swarf out of the gears and also

Thanks, Kaj. No, I haven't checked the spindle bearings. Is there an easy way to do that?

Many thanks for the reports! Have you checked if the spindle has indeed tapered roller bearings? Cheers, Kaj gcvisalia@...> wrote:

I had that same issue with my chuck. On the hanging up part I found the end of a thread kind of folded over. I carefully filed that off and now my check works nicely. george

No. Both so called bearings were just bored out holes. Nothing fancy at all. A real mess to be honest. By lathe was not remotely ready to be used out of the box so to say. Nothing moved smoothly,

This evening I discovered that the 'thickness of the way at the rear varied by 0.005" from end to end, making it difficult (impossible) to get the gibs/plates under the saddle properly adjusted. The

I was just curious about the model number. Everything about that lathe sounds like it is a Real Bull or clone than a Sieg. The way wipers, full saddle, 4" chuck and slotted half nuts are standard on

One detail - the Vevor cross slide nut (M10 x 1.0 LH) is steel. On the MicroLux, it's brass.

It's Vevor Model TQ0635 Is there an explanation somewhere about the Vevor model numbers?

On the Vevor, it's rectangular. On my MicroLux - "H" shape - so more work to make a carriage lock. Saddle=carriage? I probably am using the wrong term.