Re: Mini lathe gear noise
On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 05:58 PM, Roy wrote:
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Thanks. I'll use that paper trick next time.
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Re: Mini lathe gear noise
Use a small strip of paper, caught in the gear mesh, to set the spacing before locking the sliding pivots.
Roy
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Re: Mini lathe gear noise
Some lash between gears is desirable. Any amount of binding between gears is not wanted at all. I was taught that when using the half nuts for threading to always keep keep some tension on the carriage hand wheel with my hand to take up any lash in the gear train.
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Re: Mini lathe gear noise
If the gears are jammed together too tightly (too much engagement of the teeth) that can also cause noise - and excessive tooth wear.
Getting the gears 'just right' -loose but not too loose - is something I find a bit difficult.
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Re: Mini lathe gear noise
Looks like you need to fiddle around with spacers under the gears to ensure you're getting full gear width tooth engagement. Mine improved with slightly moving/enlarging the detent holes with a rotary file & replacing the spring in the detent handle with a softer one that doesn't require a gorilla to operate.
Roy
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Re: Mini lathe gear noise
Hi. I went with the Clough 42 based system. He has a lot of videos on YouTube about the development and sells a kit that has a board that plugs into a Texas Instruments launchpad board and a control board. The Ti board is available from Digikey, Mouser or direct. The rest of the parts, motor, belts, pulleys, etc can be sourced wherever you want. It wasn't exactly cheap. I have just over $400 US in it but that is literally buying everything including aluminum and screws to build a motor mount. For me it has been great though and I don't have any regrets about doing it. Literally push buttons to change from feeding to imperial threading to metric feed or metric thread. I love the ability to use power feed to cut to diameter, cut a thread and back to feeding in seconds. I wanted a thread change gearbox and to me the ELS is leaps more functional.?
Ryan
On Mar 26, 2022, 2:05 PM -0400, mike allen <animal@...>, wrote:
Ryan , which ELS did you go with ?
thanks
animal
On 3/26/2022 10:46 AM, Ryan H via groups.io wrote:
And check whichever small??idler gear is used for reverse. See if it has a bad tooth or teeth and / or crud built up in it. Mine got pretty worn and needed some cleaning up. I bought metal ones to replace them but ended going to an electronic lead screw and eliminating all that gear train.?
Ryan
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Re: Mini lathe gear noise
??? ??? Ryan , which ELS did you go with ?
??? ??? thanks
??? ??? animal
On 3/26/2022 10:46 AM, Ryan H via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
And check whichever small??idler gear
is used for reverse. See if it has a bad tooth or teeth and
/ or crud built up in it. Mine got pretty worn and needed
some cleaning up. I bought metal ones to replace them but
ended going to an electronic lead screw and eliminating all
that gear train.?
Ryan
|
Re: Mini lathe gear noise
And check whichever small??idler gear is used for reverse. See if it has a bad tooth or teeth and / or crud built up in it. Mine got pretty worn and needed some cleaning up. I bought metal ones to replace them but ended going to an electronic lead screw and eliminating all that gear train.?
Ryan
On Mar 26, 2022, 1:41 PM -0400, Michael Jablonski <michaeljab@...>, wrote:
Aside from what you already mentioned, check the engagement of the gear¡¯s teeth for backlash. You can use a plain piece of copier paper between the teeth of two gears.
?
Many times there is more than one set of gears that will give you the same pitch. You could try using some other gear selections.
?
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
?
?
?
I was needing to engage the feed gears to cut some threads and in the reverse? direction to feed away from the chuck it sounds bad.? It gets to a point where it vibrates awful.? I didn't want to take too much apart at the moment but I can't exactly see what the problem is.? Are there a common things to check with the gears?? The gear slot seems to be adjusted pretty well.? The vibration is definitely coming from where the small two gears contact the gear right below it. Any suggestions?? Maybe a worn bushing or too much side to side clearance on a shaft where the gear is mounted?
?
On Fri, Mar 25, 2022, 1:09 AM Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote:
While I have your USPS address I have lost your E-mail address. Just to let you know that your Atlas 618 compound has been packaged to withstand the rigors of a trip through the post office and is leaving for Kansas tomorrow! Sorry for the delay. Keep your eyes open as transit times can vary from 3 days to a week. Let me know if and when it arrives safely!??
??????????????????????????????????????????????? Bill in Boulder CO
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Re: Mini lathe gear noise
Aside from what you already mentioned, check the engagement of the gear¡¯s teeth for backlash. You can use a plain piece of copier paper between the teeth of two gears. ? Many times there is more than one set of gears that will give you the same pitch. You could try using some other gear selections. ? Michael - California, USA Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16 LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed ? ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of Chad Rebuck Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2022 10:26 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] Mini lathe gear noise ? I was needing to engage the feed gears to cut some threads and in the reverse? direction to feed away from the chuck it sounds bad.? It gets to a point where it vibrates awful.? I didn't want to take too much apart at the moment but I can't exactly see what the problem is.? Are there a common things to check with the gears?? The gear slot seems to be adjusted pretty well.? The vibration is definitely coming from where the small two gears contact the gear right below it. Any suggestions?? Maybe a worn bushing or too much side to side clearance on a shaft where the gear is mounted? ? On Fri, Mar 25, 2022, 1:09 AM Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote: While I have your USPS address I have lost your E-mail address. Just to let you know that your Atlas 618 compound has been packaged to withstand the rigors of a trip through the post office and is leaving for Kansas tomorrow! Sorry for the delay. Keep your eyes open as transit times can vary from 3 days to a week. Let me know if and when it arrives safely!?? ??????????????????????????????????????????????? Bill in Boulder CO
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Re: Mini lathe gear noise
There have been a lot of reports about the detents (divots) for the Fwd/0-Rev lever being in the wrong spot. Is the lever moving enough to fully engage the gears for reversing the leadscrew? On my lathe the spring in that gearshift handle is so strong that it's easy to miss the small hole that the point sits in.
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I was needing to engage the feed gears to cut some threads and in the reverse? direction to feed away from the chuck it sounds bad.? It gets to a point where it vibrates awful.? I didn't want to take too much apart at the moment but I can't exactly see what the problem is.? Are there a common things to check with the gears?? The gear slot seems to be adjusted pretty well.? The vibration is definitely coming from where the small two gears contact the gear right below it. Any suggestions?? Maybe a worn bushing or too much side to side clearance on a shaft where the gear is mounted?
On Fri, Mar 25, 2022, 1:09 AM Bill Williams < BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote: While I have your USPS address I have lost your E-mail address. Just to let you know that your Atlas 618 compound has been packaged to withstand the rigors of a trip through the post office and is leaving for Kansas tomorrow! Sorry for the delay. Keep your eyes open as transit times can vary from 3 days to a week. Let me know if and when it arrives safely!?? ??????????????????????????????????????????????? Bill in Boulder CO
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Attention James Dean in KS
While I have your USPS address I have lost your E-mail address. Just to let you know that your Atlas 618 compound has been packaged to withstand the rigors of a trip through the post office and is leaving for Kansas tomorrow! Sorry for the delay. Keep your eyes open as transit times can vary from 3 days to a week. Let me know if and when it arrives safely!?? ??????????????????????????????????????????????? Bill in Boulder CO
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On Thu, Mar 24, 2022 at 09:35 AM, Johannes wrote:
I got many feedbacks now, so I decided to remove again the motor from the electronic box to make a new inside look.
Then a found the big white connector from motor to PCB was not in correctly position.
I just press it in correct position and motor run perfect (with a little bit unstable rotation)
?
So this is a free advice ( from a man that should know better): Check the connectors! Specially when you open the electronic box .
That's excellent! Back to work! :)
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If you have the strength and space, take the whole thing---
.
The steel frame is usually 1/8" to 3/16" wall thickness steel
square tubing, perfect for your next project
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On 3/24/2022 2:03 PM, Bruce J wrote:
I have two of them; takes about 15 minutes of roadside surgery
with a leatherman or similar tool to yank it and the controller
from one on bulky trash day :-)
A lot
of people?have used motors salvaged from treadmills.?
?May time people think they are going to get fit and
lose weight so they buy a treadmill, then latter find
they never use it.? ?So used ones are cheap and easy to
find.
The
motor is typically bigger then what you need. and you
have to design a mount and belt.? Look for a used (maybe
even free) treadmill.
I have
one and the motor is 4X the weight and size of the motor
that came with the lathe, but what the heck, it was
free.
On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at
3:23 PM Johannes < johannes@...>
wrote:
Hi
group
?
I
have a 5200 LMS lathe, and I think the motor is
gone.
It
need a manual twist ?to run and the motor make a
lot of noise.
?
Sometimes
ago the motor make a lot of noise, and I took
out the rotor.
The
axel under the bearing was very worn, I did
something and it has worked ok until today.
?
A
new LMS 4145? 500 Watt Brushless DC motor will
cost me 350/400 USD.
So
before I order, I ask my group :
is it possible to get
a new motor that can replace and fit to my
5200 lathe ?
?
350/400
USD Is nearly 1/3 of a new lathe? :-)
?
If
someone have some experience with this motor or
similar , you are welcome to give me some
advice.
?
Best
regards
Johannes
Mexico
?
?
?
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
Good data, Thanks!?? Bill ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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Re: X axis DRO, my next project
Thanks Mark. I appreciate the offer.??I think I have some small caps here back when I raced RC truck. If not and I need one I'll get in touch.??I ordered the Shars stainless one today. Should be here next week and I'll get to work getting it mounted and see how it goes.?
Do you find yours goes through batteries pretty quick or do they last a while?
Thanks.?
Ryan
On Mar 24, 2022, 11:46 AM -0400, Mark Kimball <markkimball51@...>, wrote:
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 08:27 PM, Ryan H wrote:
Mark, great info, thanks. Did you use one of those tiny little yellow/orange caps in the read head???It fit inside the case???I'm guessing you used a 24" scale and cut it?
I have a 7x12 so a 12" scale worked without needing any cutting.? I used a 50V nonpolarized capacitor (I have a ziplock-sized bag of them).? It's overkill as far as the working voltage goes and a bit on the large size as a result -- but the case on my sensor was big enough to accommodate it.? It's green so it matches the PCB :)
If you use an electrolytic just make sure it's connected up correctly so the "+" terminal is soldered to +3.3 (Vcc or Vdd).
Here's a photo of the capacitor soldered down to the board.? I used the USB connector's case for the ground.? Hopefully you won't need it.? But if it turns out you do and you don't have any capacitors in that range, PM me with your address and I will mail you one.?
<>
Attachments:
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??? ??? ON a lot of the motors the flywheel is also the cooling
fan .
??? ??? animal
On 3/24/2022 1:06 PM, Bruce J wrote:
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On Mar 24, 2022, at 11:19 AM, Bill Williams < BWMSBLDR1@...>
wrote:
Bruce, I have several as
well as a couple of recycled electric lawn mower motors.
The mower motors are rated at 1.1 HP and 4000 RPM. As an
experiment I set one up with a light dimmer switch and
it ran fine unloaded as a demo! I would however use a
motor controller in a real world application.?
?
Could you give a quick
rundown on removing the motor and controller from a
treadmill??
Both times the treadmill was already pretty beat up, (one
was already mostly disassembled, so I just removed the plastic
cover on the other by breaking it off. ?
The motors were bolted on with two bolts attached to a
bracket welded on the side of it. ?One was missing the
controller and other electronics, so all I got was the motor.?
Finding the controller pn the other was just a matter of
tracing the wires from the motor back to it for the other one;
it was mounted close by the motor. the other controls were
plugged into the controller board. There was also a big
transformer-looking thing (although it only has twp wires, so
it¡¯s just a large choke.) that I grabbed as well.
Also pretty much all of the controller boards look alike
(and are easy to replace) typically look like this:?
On the second one I got a bonus, tucked in next to the
controller was a manufacturer¡¯s tech sheet showing the pinout
and specs of the controller :-) This also seems pretty
generic; I¡¯m pretty sure I scanned it; if I remember tonight
I¡¯ll post that here, since it¡¯s a useful thing to have if
you¡¯re retrofitting one.
I¡¯d intended to use one on my old 8x36 wood lathe, but
honestly the old 110v cooler motor on it has worked well
enough that I didn¡¯t feel the need.
A note: the big heavy flywheel/pulley on the shaft DOES
come off, but it¡¯s left-handed threaded. ?
?
And how do you identify
the motor controller from the rest of the p c board?
?
Bill in Boulder CO
?
Sent from??for Windows 10
?
From:?Bruce J
Sent:?Thursday,
March 24, 2022 12:03
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re:
[7x12MiniLathe] LMS 5200 Lathe motor
?
I have two of them; takes
about 15 minutes of roadside surgery with a leatherman
or similar tool to yank it and the controller from one
on bulky trash day :-)
?
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
? WHen you harvest the motor try to get the power supply . It
will be teh circuit board that the motor wires come from &
usually therea a transformer looking unit nearby that you will
want also.? If you end up with a MC 60 or MC 40 those can be run
with only a power switch & a potentiometer . If you ENd up
with a MC 2100 you will need a PWm controller & their @ $
10.00 on amazon or ebay .
??? ??? animal
On 3/24/2022 11:03 AM, Bruce J wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have two of them; takes about 15 minutes of roadside surgery
with a leatherman or similar tool to yank it and the controller
from one on bulky trash day :-)
A lot
of people?have used motors salvaged from treadmills.?
?May time people think they are going to get fit and
lose weight so they buy a treadmill, then latter find
they never use it.? ?So used ones are cheap and easy to
find.
The
motor is typically bigger then what you need. and you
have to design a mount and belt.? Look for a used (maybe
even free) treadmill.
I have
one and the motor is 4X the weight and size of the motor
that came with the lathe, but what the heck, it was
free.
On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at
3:23 PM Johannes < johannes@...>
wrote:
Hi
group
?
I
have a 5200 LMS lathe, and I think the motor is
gone.
It
need a manual twist ?to run and the motor make a
lot of noise.
?
Sometimes
ago the motor make a lot of noise, and I took
out the rotor.
The
axel under the bearing was very worn, I did
something and it has worked ok until today.
?
A
new LMS 4145? 500 Watt Brushless DC motor will
cost me 350/400 USD.
So
before I order, I ask my group :
is it possible to get
a new motor that can replace and fit to my
5200 lathe ?
?
350/400
USD Is nearly 1/3 of a new lathe? :-)
?
If
someone have some experience with this motor or
similar , you are welcome to give me some
advice.
?
Best
regards
Johannes
Mexico
?
?
?
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
The typical "free" treadmill motor can work on a tool but there
are things to consider, including that these are usually open, permanent
magnet motors and can attract ferrous swarf and jam up.? So they
need protection that allows cooling air flow.?? Cooling fans
are usually separate from the motor itself and may need ducting.?
There will likely be a combined poly-vee drive pulley and flywheel.?
Drives vary, but are often a basic SCR drive with a choke and maybe a
capacitor.? The combination of the flywheel and the smoothing
choke/capacitor means the motor will run smoothly, without the jerking
and buzzing often found in industrial drives (necessary for safe
treadmill operation).? New treadmills may have a PWM drive
setup.? Some use AC motors with VFDs.? Treadmill motor
horsepower ratings are exaggerated.? Anyway, point is that you can
drive a mini-lathe with a treadmill motor and drive, but it will take
some effort and likely greatly increase the weight and volume of the
lathe.? The electronically commutated sewing machine motors are
cheap and might be a better option for some.????
At 11:03 AM 3/24/2022 -0700, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have two of them; takes about
15 minutes of roadside surgery with a leatherman or similar tool to yank
it and the controller from one on bulky trash day :-)
On Mar 24, 2022, at 10:58 AM,
Chris Albertson
<
albertson.chris@...> wrote:
A lot of people have used motors salvaged from treadmills.??
May time people think they are going to get fit and lose weight so they
buy a treadmill, then latter find they never use it.?? So used
ones are cheap and easy to find.
The motor is typically bigger then what you need. and you have to design
a mount and belt.? Look for a used (maybe even free)
treadmill.
I have one and the motor is 4X the weight and size of the motor that came
with the lathe, but what the heck, it was free.
On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 3:23 PM Johannes
<johannes@...>
wrote:
- Hi group
- ?
- I have a 5200 LMS lathe, and I think the motor is gone.
- It need a manual twist? to run and the motor make a lot of
noise.
- ?
- Sometimes ago the motor make a lot of noise, and I took out the
rotor.
- The axel under the bearing was very worn, I did something and it has
worked ok until today.
- ?
- A new LMS 4145? 500 Watt Brushless DC motor will cost me 350/400
USD.
- So before I order, I ask my group :
- is it possible to get a new motor that can replace and fit to my 5200
lathe ?
- ?
- 350/400 USD Is nearly 1/3 of a new lathe? :-)
- ?
- If someone have some experience with this motor or similar , you are
welcome to give me some advice.
- ?
- Best regards
- Johannes
- Mexico
- ?
- ?
- ?
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
On Mar 24, 2022, at 11:19 AM, Bill Williams < BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote:
Bruce, I have several as well as a couple of recycled electric lawn mower motors. The mower motors are rated at 1.1 HP and 4000 RPM. As an experiment I set one up with a light dimmer switch and it ran fine unloaded as a demo! I would however use a motor controller in a real world application.? ? Could you give a quick rundown on removing the motor and controller from a treadmill??
Both times the treadmill was already pretty beat up, (one was already mostly disassembled, so I just removed the plastic cover on the other by breaking it off. ?
The motors were bolted on with two bolts attached to a bracket welded on the side of it. ?One was missing the controller and other electronics, so all I got was the motor.?
Finding the controller pn the other was just a matter of tracing the wires from the motor back to it for the other one; it was mounted close by the motor. the other controls were plugged into the controller board. There was also a big transformer-looking thing (although it only has twp wires, so it¡¯s just a large choke.) that I grabbed as well.
Also pretty much all of the controller boards look alike (and are easy to replace) typically look like this:?
On the second one I got a bonus, tucked in next to the controller was a manufacturer¡¯s tech sheet showing the pinout and specs of the controller :-) This also seems pretty generic; I¡¯m pretty sure I scanned it; if I remember tonight I¡¯ll post that here, since it¡¯s a useful thing to have if you¡¯re retrofitting one.
I¡¯d intended to use one on my old 8x36 wood lathe, but honestly the old 110v cooler motor on it has worked well enough that I didn¡¯t feel the need.
A note: the big heavy flywheel/pulley on the shaft DOES come off, but it¡¯s left-handed threaded. ?
? And how do you identify the motor controller from the rest of the p c board? ? Bill in Boulder CO ? Sent from??for Windows 10 ? ? I have two of them; takes about 15 minutes of roadside surgery with a leatherman or similar tool to yank it and the controller from one on bulky trash day :-) ?
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
OldToolmaker